NOTE ON MAGHERA,1

6

In his interesting Paper on Maghera, Mr. Milligan derives its name from Machaire, 'a plain,' and Ratha, 'a fort,' "Machaire-Ratha becoming Maghera." With this derivation there is much reason to disagree. The true derivation is given by the Rev. Mr. Sampson in his "Statistical Survey of County Derry," published in 1802. "According to some," he writes, "the etymology of the word is Magherra-Nadhra, i.e. the field or plain of solemn vespers.' I have heard that a monastery of Canons Regular had been founded here. It was a consistorial seat, and a place of convocation." This derivation is obviously borne out by the spelling of the word in ancient documents. In the Inquisition of 1609 it is spelled Magherira, "Out of the 6 balliboes of Erenagh land in Magherira, &c." See note, Colton's "Visitation," p. 76; also note at page 81. In the "Estate of the Diocese of Derry," compiled by Dr. George Downham, Bishop of Derry (1616-1634), we find the following:-"The parish church of Maghereragh is repaired at the cost of the parishioners for ye furnishing of it my Lo: Primate hath granted for a time the fines of the recusants in this parish." These were plainly two different attempts made by learned writers to give in English spelling the word as it was pronounced at that time.

This pronunciation has been faithfully preserved, and can still be heard among the oldest inhabitants. It is fairly conveyed in the following spelling, Magherărāw.

A poem on the siege of Derry, republished in 1790, makes Maghera rhyme with draw' and 'saw.'

"Lieutenant Col. Stewart from Maghera
Did to the city with a party draw."

"Captain Mulholland came from Maghera;

From Tubbermore we Ensign Johnson saw."

The documents quoted above, the native pronunciation, and these extracts conclusively prove that Magherra-Nadhra, and not MachaireRath, is the correct etymology of the word. The hill whereon tradition states the monks used to chant their vesper-song is still pointed out, and is commonly known as Vesper Hill.

1 By the Rev. Joseph M'Keefry, M.R.I.A.

THE JOURNAL

OF

THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES

OF IRELAND

FOR THE YEAR 1902.

PAPERS AND PROCEEDINGS-PART IV., VOL. XXXII.

Papers.

SOME OF THE ANTIQUITIES AROUND BALLINSKELLIGS BAY, COUNTY KERRY.

BY P. J. LYNCH, M.R.I.A.I., FELLOW.

IN Na previous Paper (see antea, page 42) I dealt with the principal antiquities around St. Finan's Bay. I now propose to refer to those around Ballinskelligs Bay.

Travelling southwards from St. Finan's Church, and through a picturesque pass, affording delightful views of the Skelligs, Puffin Island, and the sea-coast, we descend into a valley called Coom. This pass must have been the scene of frequent conflicts, as the townland on the summit is called Killonacha,1 'the wood or church of the battle,' and to the right is Gortnacaha, meaning 'the field of the battle'; these, with the different rude stone monuments to be met with further down the

1 This place, a little above the public road, was at one time strongly fortified. The remains of a stone vallum, and a square clochan, or guard-house, are still to be seen. In constructing the vallum upright stones were placed in it at intervals for greater strength. Where the rampart has fallen these stones stand out prominently on the hill-side. Locally they are supposed to mark the graves of those who fell in the battle.

2 Dr. Joyce's

"Names of Places."

Vol. x.. Fifth Series.

Jour. R.S.A.I. {

Vol. XXXI., Consec. Ser. í

[ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.]

valley, bear evidence of an early occupation; while, from the number of kitchen-middens, raths, and forts in this district, it must have been thickly populated in ancient times.

Continuing the drive-turning south on emerging from the valleywe travel, by the east side of Bolus, on towards Bolus Head, to reach the caiseal at Kildreelig (see map, antea, p. 42). Bolus Head is the extreme southern headland of Iveragh. In the dialogue of Ossian and Patrick (J. Daly's translation), we read1:

"Seven score of strong, wild oxen,

From Rinn rathach to Fochaoi ;

Fifty wolves and fifty huge wild boars,

Were the spoils of our young hounds at Formaoil."

Rinn rathach, the translator suggests in a foot-note, may be Bolus Head, on Ballinskelligs Bay.2

:

Miss Hickson, in her "Notes on Kerry Topography," states :"There is a great headland in South-West Kerry called Bolus Head, which has much exercised etymologists. Some have thought the name was a corruption of Baal's Head, and have connected it with the widespread worship of that ancient deity; while others, including Mr. W. M. Hennessy, have scouted that derivation as an impossible one. I believe that Bolus is a corruption of two old Scandinavian words-ból, a farm or abode or piece of reclaimed land, and óss, the mouth and outlet of lakes and rivers." This I think a fanciful conjecture; for certainly no part of Bolus mountain, which gives the name to the headland also, could ever have been considered reclaimed land. Locally it is called Bolus. The fishermen on the opposite shore of the bay call the headland ceann boile, from the apparent rage' of the breakers against it; but neither locally, nor from any of the best authorities on the subject whom I have consulted, can I learn anything that would satisfactorily explain the meaning of the word Bolus. The only place I found the word written was in that much-abused book, Mr. H. O'Brien's translation of "Phoenician Ireland," p. 210, where he mentions three nations, "Firbolge, Firdomnan, and Firgalion, which are generally interpreted Clan Bolus, Clan Domnan, Clan Galion. Some think that by Clan Bolus are meant the Belgæ of Britain." What authority there was for calling the Firbolgs" Clan Bolus" I cannot say. I consulted Professor Rhys on the point; and in his reply he states-"I am quite sure the bolg of Firbolg, with its hard g, can have nothing to do with Bolus." O'Brien was an Iveragh man, born close to the rugged slopes of Bolus mountain, and the name must have been familiar to him; so that it is possible the Bolus in Iveragh may have some connexion with that "Clan Bolus,"

"Transactions of the Ossianic Society," vol. iv., p. 23.

2 Fochaoi is not explained-possibly some place in County Kerry. Fermoyle is a neighbouring townland, though the translator travels to Upper Ossory to locate it. 3 Journal, vol. xxii., p. 394.

which either from some local tradition or other reason-be it doubtful or reliable-is connected with the Firbolgs. This may prove to be the explanation for the use of the name in each case. The existing monuments would show that there was good reason to identify the district with some of the early colonists of Ireland.

KILDREELIG.

The townland of Kildreelig is not far from Bolus Head, and is the property of Mr. Daniel O'Connell, D.L., Derrynane Abbey. I use the

name as it is on the Ordnance Map, though I think Kilrelig is the more correct form.

In "The Last Colonel of the Irish Brigade," by Mrs. M. J. O'Connell, I find (p. 209, vol. ii.) that, in 1779," James O'Connell, of Ballinablown,

CROSS

being aged, made a transfer for a rentcharge to his son John, of Dromore, which shows him possessed of the lands of East and West Murregh, Coolroe, Coolnaharagull, Killerelig, Conbornue, Canuge, Gneeos, and Cahirbarnagh." Here the townland is called Killerelig— relig meaning cemetery or graveyard,' and from the caiseal (which I illustrate), and in the field adjoining, there is an evidence of Christian and Pagan burial-places.

CAISEAL OR CAHER, KILDREELIG.

These Irish cahers, or stone forts, are probably of two classes, those built by the early monks for religious purposes-our earliest monastic establishment-and those which formed the residences of the chieftain and his dependents. There is little doubt that this caher at Kildreelig was of the former kind. From its small size, and the fact that it still contains the foundations of all the buildings originally enclosed by it, I consider it unique in its way, and it is certainly most interesting. Ecclesiastical cahers were oftentimes known as caiseals, and I have adopted that name. The caiseal is on the roadside opposite to the National school recently built here. It is shown on Ordnance Sheet xevii.-13, within a single line (area 109) marked caher. It is somewhat irregular, the outside measurement being about 84 feet on the diameter. It is constructed of very large stones, some 3 feet long, set lengthwise, on the side of the headland which slopes quickly to the cliffs over the sea. The stones are set in a much more open and irregular manner than is usual, even in cyclopean work. On the cliff side the wall at present stands 10 feet high, with a slight batter. This wall would appear to be at least 6 feet thick on the top, but the rough nature of the interior, in which the débris is raised about 4 feet high, prevents anything like accurate measurements. There are two entrances: the principal one is to the west and 4 feet wide. This appears to have been very strongly constructed, the wall being increased in thickness to 10 feet at this point. From the east side of the entrance a line of fencing can be traced for about 30 feet, forming a terrace against the slope of the ground. It returned north for 9 feet 6 inches, and is now defined by five standing stones, meeting another line of terracing extending on for about 130 feet in a westerly direction, where the remains of a cromlech may be seen, and close to it a circular clochan in ruins. These terraces formed on the sloping hillside, so necessary to keep the soil for cultivation from being washed away, and which may be seen in Continental mountain vineyards of the present day, appear to have been a general construction in these early Christian settlements (see Killabuonia, antea, p. 46). The five pillar-stones which stand outside the entrance to the caiseal, and which range from 4 feet to 3 feet high,

1 Joyce, p. 345, 1st Series.