trymen, followers of the celebrated Condottiero leader, Ingelram de Coucy, who were defeated here, 1376, by the inhabitants of Entlebuch. This Ingelram de Coucy was sonin-law of Edward III., King of England, and Earl of Bedford, Having a feud against Leopold of Austria, he not only laid waste his territories, but made devastating inroads into the neighbouring Swiss cantons, from the Jura to the gates of Berne and Zurich, until his career was suddenly arrested here by a few hundred Swiss peasants. This action put an end to a struggle known in Swiss history as the English war. The approach to Lucerne is charming: on the l. rises the Rigi, in shape somewhat resembling a horse's back; on the rt. the Pilatus is distinguished by his serrated ridge. After crossing the small stream of the Emine by a wooden bridge, we reach the banks of the green Reuss, rushing out of the lake of Lucerne. On the rt. the new road to Berne, by the Entlebuch, is passed. Lucerne is surrounded on this side by a battlemented wall, flanked at intervals by a number of tall watch-towers, descending to the margin of the river. 4 LUCERNE. Route 16. ROUTE 5. BALE TO AARAU, BY THE STAFFELECK. 19 stunden62 1/4 Eng. miles. Diligences daily. The road is the same as route 3, as far as : 3 1/4 Rheinfelden. At Stein it quits the side of the Rhine, and ascends the Frickthal to 3 3/4 Frick, a village of 1800 inhabitants, with a church on a height. Here our route branches out of the high-road to Zurich. The Frickthal and surrounding district belonged to Austria down to 1801. 1 2/3 Staffelegg. Above this village is a depression or col in the chain of the Jura, over which an easy carriage-road has been constructed at the expense of the government of the canton. A gradual descent leads down into the valley of the Aar, which is crossed in order to enter 11/3 Aarau. - Inns: wilder Mann, (Sauvage) - Ochs (Bœuf)-Cigogne. The chief town of the canton, Argovie, which was first included in the Confederation 1803, having previously formed a subject province of Canton Bern, con-. tains 4500 inhabitants, and is situated on the rt. bank of the Aar: the bridge over it was swept away by an inundation in 1831.. Simond calls it "an odious little place." It lies at the S. base of the Jura, here partly covered with vineyards. There are many extensive cotton-mills here. The Rathhaus, in which the cantonal councils are held, includes within its circuit the tower of a feudal castle of the Counts von Rore, which may be regarded as the nucleus of the town. In the parish church, Protestant and Catholic services are performed alternately. Henry Zschokke, the historian and novel-writer, resides here. When the armies of the French Revolution took possession of Switzerland in 1789, and destroyed its ancient form of Government, Aarau was made capital of the Helvetian Republic, but it was soon transferred to Lucerne. The baths of Schintznach (p. 23) are about 10 miles from this. The road to them runs along the rt. bank of the Aar, passing several castles, the most conspicuous of which is that of Windeck. Close to Schintznach rise the ruins of the Castle of Habsburg, the cradle of the House of Austria. ROUTE 6. BALE TO ZURICH, BY BRUGG, THE BATHS OF SCHINTZNACH AND BADEN. 16 1/3 stunden = 53 Eng. miles. Diligences go daily. 7 Frick. Thus far the road is identical with Routes 3 and 5. Passing through the villages Hornussen and Effingen, it crosses the hill of. Botzberg, whose culminating point, 1850 ft. above the sea, commands a fine view of the Alps. It was called Mons Vocetius by the Romans, who constructed a highway across it; and on this spot, according to Swiss antiquaries, was fought the battle so fatal to the Helvetians, in which they were defeated by Cæcina, and the Legion called by Tacitus Rapax, from its exactions and cruelty, A. D. 69. A wooden bridge, 70 ft. long, leads across the Aar, which here flows, in a contracted bed, to 3 Brugg, or Brück-(Inns: Stern, Etoile; -Rothes Haus, Maison Rouge)-a walled town of great antiquity having been an ancient possession of the House of Habsburg, containing 800 inhabitants. It is the birth-place of Zimmerman, physician of Frederick the Great, who wrote on Solitude. The country around Brugg is interesting, both in a geographical and historical point of view. In the plain, a little below the town, three of the principal rivers of Switzerland which drain the N. slopes of the Alps, from the Grisons to the Jura, the Limmat, the Reuss, and the Aar, form a junction, and, united under the name of the Aar, throw themselves into the Rhine about 10 miles below Brugg, at a place called Coblenz. Close upon this meeting of the waters, and on the trian ! gular tongue of land between the Aar and Reuss, stood Vindonissa, the most important settlement of the Romans in Helvetia, as well as their strongest fortress on this frontier, on which they placed their chief dependence for maintaining this portion of their empire. Its works extended 12 miles from N. to S. Yet scarcely any portion of it now appears above ground; traces of an amphitheatre, a subterranean aqueduct, which conveyed water from Brauneggberg, 3 miles off, foundations of walls, broken pottery, inscriptions, and coins have been turned up by the spade from time to time, and its name is preserved in that of the miserable little village of Windisch. "Within the ancient walls of Vindonissa, the castle of Habsburg, the abbey of Konigsfield, and the town of Bruck, have successively arisen. The philosophic traveller may compare the monuments of Roman conquests, of feudal or Austrian tyranny, of monkish superstition, and of industrious freedom. If he be truly a philosopher, he will applaud the merit and happiness of his own time."-Gibbon. Half a mile beyond the walls of Brugg stands the abbey of Kænigsfelden (King's field), founded, 1310, by the Empress Elizabeth; and Agnes, Queen of Hungary, on the spot where, two years before, their husband and father, the Emperor Albert, was assassinated. The convent was suppressed in 1528, and is now converted into a lunatic asylum. The church, fast falling to decay, contains some fine painted glass; and the effigies in stone, as large as life, of a long train of nobles, who fell in the battle of Sempach. The vaults beneath were the burial-place of many members of the Austrian family, including, Agnes and Leopold, who fell at Sempach, but they were removed hence into the Austrian dominions in 1770. According to tradition, the high altar stands on the spot where Albert fell. He had crossed the ferry of the Reuss in a small boat, leaving his suite on the opposite bank, and attended only by the four conspirators. The chief of them, John of Suabia, nephew of Albert-who had been instigated to the design by the wrong he endured in being kept out of his paternal inheritance by his uncle-first struck him in the throat with his lance. Balm ran him through with his sword, and Walter von Eschenbach cleft his skull with a felling-stroke. Wart, the fourth, took no share in the murder. Although the deed was se openly done in broad day, almost under the walls of the Imperial Castle of Habsburg, and in sight of a large retinue of armed attendants, the murderers were able to escape in different directions; and the Imperial retainers took to flight, leaving their dying master to breathe his last in the arms of a poor peasant who happened to pass. A peasant-girl that royal head upon her bosom laid, Unknown, on that meek, humble breast, imperial Albert died. Mrs. Hemans. A direful vengeance was wrecked by the children of the murdered monarch; not, however, upon the murderers-for, with the exception of Wart, the only one who did not raise his hand against him, they all escaped-but upon their families, relations, and friends; and 1000 victims are believed to have expiated, with their lives, a crime of which they were totally innocent. Queen Agnes gratified her spirit of vengeance with the sight of these horrid executions, exclaiming, while 63 unfortunate men were butchered before her, "Now I bathe in May-dew!" She ended her days in the convent of Königsfelden, which she had founded and endowed with the confiscated property of those whom she had slaughtered. Penance, prayer, and alms-giving would avail but little to stifle the qualms of a guilty conscience for the bloody deeds which she had committed; and it is recorded that a holy hermit, to whom she had applied for absolution, replied to her-"Woman! God is not to be served with bloody hands, nor by the slaughter of innocent persons, nor by convents built with the plunder of orphans and widows-but by mercy and forgiveness of injuries." The building in which she passed 50 years of her life is destroyed that which is shown as her cell is not so in reality. About two miles above Brugg, on a wooded height called Wülpelsberg, stand the remains of the Castle of Habsburg, or Habichtsburg (Hawk's Castle), the cradle of the House of Austria, built in the 11th century by Bishop Werner, of Strassburg, an ancestor of the family. A mere fragment of the original building now exists. The tall, square keep of rough stones has walls 8 ft. thick; and beneath it a dungeon, to be entered only by a trap-door in the floor above. The view from it is picturesque and interesting; the eye ranges along the course of the three rivers, over the site of the Roman Vindonissa, and Königsfelden, the sepulchre of imperial Albert: on the S. rises the ruined castle of Braunegg, which belonged to the sons of the tyrant Gessler; and below it Birr, where Pestalozzi, the teacher, died, and is buried. It takes in at a single glance the whole Swiss patrimony of the Habsburgs-an estate far more limited than that of many a British peer-from which Rudolph was called to wield the sceptre of Charlemagne. The house of Austria were deprived of their Swiss territories by papal ban, 150 years after Rudolph's elevation; but it is believed that the ruin has again become the property of the Austrian Emperor by purchase. Below the castle, at the foot of the Wülpelsberg, and about 3 miles from Brugg, lie the Baths of Schintznach, also called Habsburger Bad, the most frequented watering-place in Switzerland. The principal buildings are the Great Inn, Grosser Gasthof, and the Bath-house, erected within a few years, in a semicircular form. In May and June, 300 people often dine here in the splendid saloon. The house contains sleeping accommodations for 200, and 50 baths. The waters are of the saline sulphureous kind, and have a temperature of 60° Fahr. They are efficacious in cutaneous disorders, in rheumatism, and for wounds. Schintznach owes little to nafure, except its waters. Some pretty walks have been made near the houses, and winding paths, under the shade of trees, lead up the hill to Habsburg. On quitting Brugg, the road passes the convent of Königsfelden, traversing Oberdorf (near which are scanty remains of a Roman amphitheatre), and skirts on the l. the village of Windisch (p. 21), before it crosses the river Reuss. It then proceeds up the 1. bank of the Limmat, to 2 Baden (Inns: Löwe, Lion; - Engel, Ange). These inns in the town are inferior to those at the baths. This ancient walled town, of 1800 inhabitants, is squeezed within a narrow defile on thel. bank of the Limmat, here crossed by a wooden bridge. The ruins of the Castle, nearly as large as the place itself, overlook it from a rocky eminence. It was anciently the stronghold of the Austrian princes, and their residence while Switzerland belonged to them. Here were planned the expeditions against the Swiss, which were frustrated at Morgarten and Sempach. At length when the Pope, in 1415, excommunicated the Archduke Frederick, the Swiss took it and burnt it. In the Rathhaus of Baden the preliminaries preceding the treaty of peace which terminated the war of Succession were arranged by Prince Eugene, on the part of Austria and by Marshal Villars, for France, in 1712. Baden, like its namesakes in Baden and Austria, was frequented on account of its mineral waters by the Romans, who called it Thermæ Helvetica. It was sacked and destroyed by Cæcina. The Baths-(Inns: Stadthof, best; -Hinterhof;-Raabe) -are situated on the borders of the Limmat, a quarter of a |