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House, the seat of Mr. Huntly Duff, the great-grandson of Catherine Duff, Lady Drummuir, in whose house both Prince Charles and the Duke of Cumberland lodged during their residence in Inverness.

Tom-na-heurich (the hill of fairies), shaped like a ship with its keel uppermost, is a wooded hill a mile to the south-west of Inverness. The walks around it, and on the banks of the Ness, are very pleasant. A new drive has lately been formed from the harbour and Cromwell's Fort, along the mouth of the river and adjoining sea-coast.

CULLODEN MOOR, CAWDOR AND KILRAVOCK CASTLES.

These can all be combined in one day's excursion of about 35 miles. On the way to Cawdor we get a glimpse of Kilravock Castle, another similar structure of the fifteenth century. At Cawdor there is a good inn.

Culloden Moor, where the Highland army was defeated under Prince Charles Stuart, lies about five miles south-east of Inverness. It is a desolate tract of table land, traversed longitudinally by a carriage road, on the side of which are two or three green trenches marking the spot where the heat of the battle took place, and numbers of the slain were interred. On the north it is flanked by the firth and the table-land of the Black Isle; on the south-east by the ridges of Strathnairn, and on the westward, its extremities are bounded by the splintered and serrated heights of Stratherrick. In the opposite dis

tance, the moor is lost in a flat bare plain stretching towards Nairn-one old square tower, the castle of Dalcross, a hold of the Clan Chattan, rising upon the open waste, to give it interest. The level nature of the ground rendered it peculiarly unfit for the movements of the Highland army, against cavalry and artillery. According to the general accounts, about 1200 men fell in this engagement. The number killed on both sides was nearly equal.

The victory at Culloden finally extinguished the hopes of the house of Stuart, and secured the liberties of Britain ; but the cruelties exercised by the Duke of Cumberland on his helpless foes have stamped his memory with indelible infamy.

A mile to the north of Culloden Moor is Culloden House (Forbes, Esq.), which, at the time of the Rebellion, belonged to the celebrated Duncan Forbes, Lord President of the Court of Session. Here Prince Charles lodged for some nights before the battle. Since 1745, it has been greatly renewed and altered. About a mile south of the battle-field, on the opposite bank of the River Nairn, is the plain of Clava, a singular spot, covered with circles of stones and cairns, supposed remains of the Celtic Druids. One of these rude cemeteries was lately opened, and in the inner cell, about eighteen inches below the floor, were found two earthen vases containing calcined bones.

Fort-George, distant about twelve miles from Inverness, is another interesting object in this neighbourhood. It is situated on the extremity of a low sandy point which projects far out into the Moray Firth opposite Fortrose. The breadth of the firth here is only about a mile. The fort was erected immediately after the suppression of the Rebellion in 1745, for the purpose of keeping the Highlanders in check. The fortifications are constructed on the plan of the great fortresses of the Continent. They cover about fifteen English acres, and afford accommodation for about 3000 men. At the bottom of the peninsula is CAMPBELTON, a modern fishing village, named from the Campbells of Cawdor.

Cawdor Castle, the most perfect specimen now remaining of the old feudal fortress, is fourteen miles from Inverness. It was erected about the year 1400, and still has its moat and drawbridge, tower, and "donjon keep." Some ancient and very large oak, elm, and ash trees surround the castle, and give it additional character.

On the way back to Inverness from Fort-George we pass close by the ruins of Castle Stuart, said to have been built by the Regent Moray, and much admired for its symmetry and the gracefulness of its hanging turrets.

Fortrose and Cromarty.-Between the Moray and Cromarty Firths intervenes an extensive peninsular district of country, known as "The Black Isle," and also called of old Ardmeanach, or the Monk's Land. There is a consider

FORTROSE AND CROMARTY.

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able thoroughfare across it, in the line from Inverness by Kessock Ferry to Dingwall, which is several miles shorter than the main road round the head of the firth by Beauly. The whole of the Black Isle is well peopled; but the portions to the eastward of Kessock Ferry are comparatively little frequented by the tourist. They, however, demand a brief notice.

Kessock Ferry is about a mile from Inverness. The plain on which it is built advances on the waters of the firth, so as to confine them to a width of three quarters of a mile. The chain of hills which line the Great Glen of Scotland on the north side are prolonged along the margin of the Black Isle and beyond the opening of the Cromarty Firth, and form a stretch of hill coast of softened outline and highly variegated surface. To the west of Kessock, the sea, having pierced this range of hills, expands into the beauteous basin of the Beauly Firth. The sail across Kessock Ferry is worth taking for the varied and lovely view presented on all sides. To the east are the wooded crags of the Ord Hill, and to the west those of Craig-phadrich. On the summit of the ascent from Kessock (two miles from the ferry), the Dingwall and Fortrose and Cromarty roads diverge, the latter following a sloping hollow, which conducts to the bay and village of Munlochy. Here another road ascends across the centre of the Black Isle to Invergordon Ferry, passing a little above Munlochy, the parks and extensive plantations of Belmaduthy (Sir Evan Mackenzie of Kilcoy, Bart.) By a branch of this road, which conducts behind Raddery (Henry Fowler, Esq.), and keeps along the top of the ridge, the distance to Cromarty can be shortened by some miles.

Three miles beyond Munlochy the mansion-houses of Rosehaugh (Sir James M'Kenzie, Bart.) and of Avoch (Alexander M'Kenzie, Esq.) are passed on the left, and immediately after, the sea-shore is regained at the little fishing village of that name. A mile further on we reach Fortrose, a small burgh, which occupies the root of the northern of two long peninsulas, which projecting from either side, again confine the firth to a ferry of about a mile in widththe extremity of the southern promontory being occupied

by Fort-George. Fortrose was the cathedral town of Ross. It still boasts of a fragment (the south aisle of the cathedral), the rest of the building having been used as a quarry in constructing Cromwell's fort at Inverness. It was of the purest and most elaborate middle-pointed architecture of the early part of the fourteenth century. The sharpness of the mouldings at the present day is remarkable, and the ruin is deservedly admired as betokening a structure of rare ecclesiological merit. There are five lights in the remaining eastern window, and the rood turret is still entire. A canopied tomb, that of the Countess of Ross, who is said to have founded the cathedral, has been a fine work. Here the Mackenzies of Seaforth have their family burying ground. Fortrose has a comfortable inn, and an academy at which several eminent individuals have laid the foundation of their distinction in life-among others, Sir James Mackintosh, a name held in peculiar estimation in the north.

The sea-coast between Fortrose and Cromarty has acquired a geological interest from the writings of Hugh Miller on the lias deposit and fossil concretions at Eathie. The cliffs are otherwise interesting both to the geologist and botanist. The burn of Eathie exhibits the junction of the granite and old red sandstone rocks.

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The road to Cromarty, passing through the old burgh of Rosemarkie, a mile beyond, and associated with Fortrose, ascends a very deep alluvial gully, which seams the hills behind at right angles, and leads, in a straight line, across the peninsula to the Cromarty Firth, between Newhall (Shaw M'Kenzie, Esq.) and Pointzfield (Sir George Gunn Munro), whence it skirts, for some miles, a picturesque coast to Cromarty. Two branch roads lead along the summit of the hill, from Munlochy below Balmaduthy-one by Eathie, the other the central road already noticed.

Cromarty has declined much in importance by the rivalry of Invergordon, on the north side of the firth, the latter being more contiguous to the important districts of Easter and Wester Ross. It will, however, retain its value as a harbour of refuge, completely sheltered by the headlands called the Sutors of Cromarty, while the road

INVERNESS TO BANNAVIE BY ROAD.

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stead is capacious enough for the largest fleet, and the firth is altogether a very fine sheet of land-locked water. Immediately above the town, Cromarty House (Mrs. Rose Ross) occupies the site of a castle of the old Earls of Ross. There is little to invite a prolonged sojourn in the town, even the inns exhibiting a marked want of the indications of frequent concourse.

INVERNESS TO BANNAVIE, by the road along the banks of the Caledonian Canal.

The tourist may enjoy a very delightful drive or walk by the banks of the Caledonian Canal. There are roads along both sides of Lochs Ness and Oich, but the north-west one is the more picturesque. Leaving Inverness, and passing the peculiarly-shaped hill called Tom-na-heurich, the tourist, at the distance of about a mile from the town, crosses the canal, and ascends the undulating face of Torvain. On this hill, in 1197, there was fought a desperate battle between Donald Bane of the Isles and a body of troops from the castle of Inverness. Passing the house of Dunain (W. Baillie, Esq.), the tourist comes to the beautiful little lake Dochfour. On its banks is Dochfour House (Evan Baillie, Esq.), surrounded by fine parks and magnificent trees. A monumental pillar has lately been erected, near the house, to the memory of the late proprietor, Evan Baillie, Esq., who was at one time M.P. for Bristol, and died in his native glen at the advanced age of ninety-five. Nearly opposite, in a sequestered bay which forms the narrow eastern extremity of Loch Ness, is Aldourie, the seat of W. F. Tytler, Esq., where Sir James Mackintosh was born, and in the immediate neighbourhood of which he spent several years of his childhood. For the first few miles along the shores of Loch Ness, the hills are bare and steep. They are of reddish granite, and are called Craig Derg, or the Red Rocks.

Glen Urquhart opens up from Loch Ness, about 14 miles from Inverness. This glen has been pronounced one of the fairest and richest in Scotland. It is about ten miles in length, and is luxuriantly wooded. At its mouth there is an excel(PTS)

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