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which it reposes, as well as with the arid waste by which it is surrounded.

The citadel, which occupies part of the ridge of Mokattam, is a place of considerable strength, but, like most other ancient buildings in Egypt, greatly encumbered with ruins. The palace of the pasha is not worthy of notice on any other account than as being the residence of so distinguished a person when he chooses to live in his capital. It is a small house, plain, and without any exterior decoration, except that it has more glass-windows in front than Turkish dwellings usually exhibit. The Well of Joseph, in the middle of the fortress, calls us back to the twelfth century, the era of the renowned Saladin, by whom it was excavated, and whose name, Yousef, it continues to bear. It is about 45 feet in circumference at the top, and is dug through the soft calcareous rock to the depth of about 270 feet, where it meets a spring of brackish water on a level with the Nile, from which indeed it is derived,-owing its saline impregnation to the nature of the soil through which it has filtered. The water is raised in buckets by two wheels drawn by oxen, the one being on the surface of the ground, the other at the depth of 150 feet. The main use of this celebrated cistern, besides partly supplying the garrison, is to irrigate the adjoining gardens, and keep alive the little verdure which adorns the interior of the fortress; but it is preserved in tolerable repair from the consideration, that were the place ever subjected to a siege, the stream of Joseph's Well would become the sole reliance of the troops as well as of the numerous inhabitants.

The memory of Saladin is farther associated with the citadel by means of a ruin called Joseph's Hall, and which is understood to have formed part of the palace of that waruke prince. The columns, it is manifest, have been taken from some more ancient building at Memphis, being generally monolithic, or consisting of a single stone, tall and massy, and adorned with highly-wrought capitals. In the days of Saracenic magnificence, this must have been a truly splendid edifice, meriting in some degree the praises bestowed upon the royal residences of that aspiring and ingenious people. But it is now in a very dilapidated condition, part being converted into a magazine, and part used as a granary; while the whole has such a waste and mournful

appearance, as to be, in truth, more desolate and less interesting than if it were a complete ruin.*

But, in describing Joseph's Hall, we apprehend that we have spoken of an architectural relic which no longer exists. In the year 1824 the citadel was much shaken by the explosion of a magazine; whence arose the necessity of a thorough repair in several of the remaining buildings of the fortress. Among the ruins pointed out for demolition were the surviving walls of Saladin's palace; on the site of which was about to be erected a square, meant probably for the better accommodation of the troops. The roof of this edifice, which might long have withstood the ravages of time, was very much admired. It was formed of a succession of little domes made of wood, into which were introduced concave circles containing octagons of blue and gold. The corners and arches of the buildings were carved in the best Saracenic manner, and in many places the colours and gilding continued perfectly bright.

Cairo, although it cannot boast of an origin so ancient as that of Thebes, nor of a mythology which connected the present life so closely with the next, has nevertheless a city of tombs, a Necropolis on which has been lavished much treasure combined with a certain portion of architectural taste. The desert towards the east is studded with sepulchres and mausoleums, some of which produce a very striking effect. As every Turk throughout the empire, from the grand signior to the meanest peasant, is compelled to be of some profession; and as every calling has its peculiar headdress, which is represented on a pole at the grave of the deceased, a burial-place in a Moslem country has necessarily a singular appearance. The celebrated tombs of the Mamlouks are going fast to decay, their boasted magnifi cence being now limited to a gilt inscription; but, in order that the reader may be enabled to form a judgment as to their grandeur in former days, we insert a drawing taken from the splendid work on Egypt published by the imperial government of France.

The cemetery of the pasha is the most sumptuous of modern structures in the Necropolis of Cairo. It is a vaulted stone building, consisting of five domes, under

* Richardson, vol. i. p. 48.

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which, in splendid chambers composed of marble, are laid the bodies of his two sons Toussoun and Ishmael, and of his favourite wife the mother of these youths. Having mentioned this lady, it may not be out of place to add that she possessed an astonishing degree of influence over her impetuous husband, who always regarded her as the foundation of his good fortune. She was much esteemed, too, and beloved by the people; for her power was uniformly exerted on the side of justice and mercy. Much of her time was occupied in receiving petitions; but it was seldom she had to refer them to the pasha, as her ascendency was too well known by the ministers to require this last appeal. If, however, in consequence of any demur on their part, she had to apply to him, he answered their remonstrance by saying," "Tis enough. By my two eyes! if she requires it the thing must be done, be it through fire, water, 'or stone."

Mohammed Ali generally resides at Shoubra, where he has built a splendid palace, and planted a garden after the European fashion. The ceilings, executed by a Grecian artist, are lofty and vaulted, ornamented with gold, and with representations of landscapes, or of palaces and colonnades, the whole being painted in light and pleasing colours. The sultana's private sitting-room is still more sumptuous. During the heats of summer his highness occupies an apartment below, particularly adapted for coolness, having a marble fountain in the centre amply supplied with a constant stream of water. On one of the walls is inscribed, in large Arabic characters, a verse from the Koran, signifying "an hour of justice is worth seventy days of prayer." But the chief embellishment of the place is a magnificent pavilion, about 250 feet long by 200 broad. On its sides run four galleries or colonnades, composed of elegant pillars of the finest white marble, surrounding a sunken court six feet deep, paved throughout with the same beautiful material. At each corner of the colonnade is a terrace, over which water passes into the court below in a murmuring cascade, having on its ledges figures of fish, sculptured so true to nature that they appear to move in the flowing stream. The whole supply of water rises again through a fountain in the centre, and reappears in a beautiful jet-d'eau, lofty, sparkling, and abundant. In fine weather the pasha

occasionally resorts to this splendid fountain with the ladies of his harem, who row about in the flooded court for the amusement of his highness, while he is seated in the colonnade. Great is the commotion when the ladies descend into the garden. A signal is given, and the gardeners vanish in a moment. Mrs. Lushington was struck with the ruddy cheeks and healthy appearance of these men. They are principally Greeks; and the gay colours of their fanciful costume, each with a nosegay or bunch of fruit in his hand,-combined with the luxuriant scenery around, gave them more the semblance of actors in a ballet representing a fête in Arcadia than the real labourers of a Turkish despot.*

This chapter would be incomplete were we not to compare what Egypt is at present with what it was at the beginning of the century.

When Mohammed assumed the command anarchy reigned in every department. The country was distracted by the conflicting pretensions of the Mamlouks, aided by the Bedouin Arabs, the Albanians, and the Turks, with many rival chieftains. The soldiers were mutinous; the finances were exhausted; property was insecure; agriculture was neglected; and commerce languished. But now every thing is improved; the wild Arabs are submissive; the military are controlled, lodged in barracks or tents, and regularly paid; the finances prodigiously increased; new articles of produce raised; and trade carried on to an extent formerly unknown. The whole country from Alexandria to Syené is perfectly tranquil, and travellers pass unmolested with as much freedom and safety as on the continent of Europe. It is not pretended that the viceroy has not his failings; he has many: but to estimate his character he should be judged by the standard of other Mohammedan princes, of the pashas of Syria or Turkey, for example; and which of all these can be compared to him? It is hardly fair to try him by our notions of excellence, when every thing-custom, religion, government—are so different. His defects are those of education and example; his improvements are the fruit of his own genius and patriotism.† *Narrative of a Journey, p. 128.

† Quarterly Review, vol. xxx. p. 508. Mr. Carne remarks that the firm and decisive character of Mohammed is in nothing more visible than

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