6 evening sky. Far over the acacia trees, toward the west, the pyramids reared their sharp outlines. The sun was just taking its departure like a golden vase brimmed with purple cloud, pouring out its streams of colour, irradiating the heights, and rippling down the hoary stones. That last scene was a picture for memory long to cherish; and as the later shadows stole upward, and night hung her veil upon the landscape, thought recalled that light which had once sprung out of darkness and the darkness comprehended it not.' The voice of the great prophet, he who had foretold the certain doom of Egypt, seemed to sound once more over the dreary wastes, and to be borne on the night-breeze. Again were repeated those warnings utterly disregarded, and which were so aptly compared to a 'lovely song of one who hath a pleasant voice, and can play well on an instrument.' Thus were those poetical allegories received which declared the sun should be covered with a cloud, moon should withdraw her light. and the All the bright lights of heaven will I make dark over thee, and set darkness upon thy land." Thus the night of Egypt was typified. We too had been groping among the uncertain shadows of its forgotten history, dreaming among its ruins; and now we were looking for the last time upon the most splendid monuments of Egypt, which the light of science has but lately illustrated, enabling their recondite history to be again read by the world. * Ezekiel xxxii. 7, 8. CHAPTER XVI. Preparations for the Desert.-El Kanka.-Caravan.-Heliopolis.-The ancient Sycamore.-First Encampment.— The Tents.-Camp Life.-Camel-riding. PREPARATIONS FOR THE DESERT. 'All around To the bound Of the vast horizon's round, W. W. STORY. On the 28th of January, our arrangements being completed, and our dragoman having prepared every possible comfort which could be made portable, we left Cairo at noon upon donkeys, our caravan having preceded us to El Kanka. It was the first day of our desert travel. Our inventory ran thus: twenty-two camels, three horses, five cameldrivers, dragoman, valet, cook, and eighty live fowl! We carried our hotel with us, and were about to commence our pilgrimage through the wilderness to Judea.' We had chosen the route known in sacred geography as The Way of the Kings of the East.' The forty days' journey through the Sinaitic desert we had determined not to venture upon. Our way lay through Goshen and the field of Zoar,' which is commonly called the short desert.' This desert teems with memories and interests all 6 its own. It was here that Moses brought 'Israel from the Red Sea, and where they were three days and found no water.' It was the ancient road into Syria. It is the way Mary took in her flight into Egypt with the holy Child, and has since been traversed by conquerors, emperors, apostles, crusaders, and pilgrims. We passed through several pretty villages, looking at every green object with fresh delight, as we 142 ANCIENT SYCAMORE. thought how many days our eyes would be resting on a colourless landscape of sand and cloud scenery. Towards the middle of the day we found ourselves at rest under the drooping boughs of the famous sycamore at Heliopolis,-a venerable tree, whose gnarled, knotted, and twisted trunk looked as if it had braved the storms of ages. The boughs spread to an incredible width, and form a deep dark shade. Here tradition asserts the holy family rested in their 'flight.' It is very possible that this may be a descendant of the tree that afforded repose and shelter to the weary fugitives, if not the identical one. Tradition is not to be wholly disregarded in these lands, where so much has been preserved through its medium which could not otherwise have been known. If we utterly ignore tradition, we assume as false a position as if we credulously received every tale told by ciceroni. A journey through these lands is essentially a journey of retrospection. Externally, we see, move, and live. Interiorly, we have our being |