tourist mounts the car (on which he has engaged a seat before leaving Galway), en route for Clifden. If it be decided to remain at Cong, the car can be caught at Oughterard, by rowing across the lake. Intercepting the car, however, at Half-way House, brings the tourist twelve miles nearer Clifden than if he had gone to Oughterard. The scenery, too, between Cong and Half-way House, is far superior to what it is between Oughterard and Half-way House.

The second route to Clifden, by car direct (not to be compared to the one described), lies through the village of Moycullen. The country towards the shore of Lough Corrib is flat, and affords occasional views of those scenes so much better looked upon from the "Eglington." Some fine country seats are passed, the principal being Lemonfield, the residence of G. O'Flahertie, Esq., a descendant of the "Ferocious O'Flaherties." Nearer is Aughnanure The tourist now Castle, the ancient stronghold of the family. arrives at Oughterard, a picturesque looking town, situated on the Owen Riff River (" The River of Sulphur"), which forms a succession of cascades just above the town. This river abounds with fresh-water mussels, in which pearls are frequently found. The road from this place to Half-way House (a distance of twelve miles) lies through lake and mountain scenery. At five miles Lough Bofin is passed, and next Lough Arderry. Next comes Lough Shindella, with its numerous wooded islands, though the lake is but two miles in length. Here is the Half-way House, a simple country cottage, buried amidst the mountains.

The seven miles from this to Glendalough is a most delightful drive, and the group of lakes amongst which the tourist finds himself are superior to anything else in Connemara, and, in the opinion of some, quite equal to Killarney. The endless combinations in which Glendalough, Derryclare, Ballynahinch, and the lonely romantic Inagh appear, with their background of lofty mountains, and the precipitate courses of the hillside torrents, tracing silvery lines from the summits to the deeply-embosomed lakelets at the base, can only be realised when actually seen. There is a choice of two hotels, if the tourist should wish to make a stay in this lovely districtthe Recess Hotel, six miles from Half-way House, and the Glendalough Hotel, on the opposite side of the lake. If time permit, we would recommend a halt here, for the ascent of Lisoughter Mountain affords a bird's-eye view of the attractive neighbourhood that would repay ten-fold the trouble. Behind stretch the Maamturk range, to the south winds the road just traversed from Oughterard; while in front, with Loughs Inagh and Derryclare in the intermediate vale, the Twelve Pins rear their rugged heads. Setting out once more from Glendalough towards Clifden, which is now fourteen miles distant, and after driving for about three miles through interesting country, the branch road which leads to Roundstone is passed on the left, and just

beyond it Lough Ballynahinch is reached. The remains of an ancient castle may be observed on a small island in the lough.

The scenery still continues interesting, and again the tourist is in the land of lakes. On the left side of the road the Ballynahinch and Glencraghan rivers are passed; the latter takes its rise in the Twelve Pin Mountains. On the right, the Derryclare and Benlettery Mountains rise in all their grandeur. From the shoulder of Derriff Cave a good view can be obtained of the lovely and lonely Lough Inagh.

Ballynahinch-the ancient residence of the Martin familystands at the southern extremity of the lough bearing the same name. In former days, the Martins possessed almost regal power in this part of the country; and the peasantry constantly speak of the "reign' " of the Martins, clearly denoting the paramount authority of this family, out of whose hands the immense property-upwards of 200,000 acres of land, together with the family mansion-passed some years since, the last owner having mortgaged it to the Law Life Insurance Company. The house, which is surrounded by trees, stands on the shore of the lough, a range of dark and lofty mountains forming the background.

Passing onward, the road to the right leads to the celebrated green marble quarries, specimens of which, worked into crosses, brooches, &c., can be purchased at Clifden, a little town six miles further on. There are two hotels (Mullarkey's New, and Carr's) in this place, which is prettily situated, embosomed amid hills, but open towards the west to the Atlantic. Clifden is of quite modern growth, having, in fact, been founded by the late Mr. Darcy. Clifden Castle, formerly the residence of this gentleman, a modern castellated mansion, is reached by a road winding along the sea-shore, and has a beautiful situation, but is, in other respects, not remarkable. Outside the town the Owenglen River forms a succession of pretty falls. For excursions to Roundstone, Mount Urrisberg, and elsewhere, the tourist should consult our Local Shilling Guide. From Clifden the road to Leenane lies through Letterfrack, seven miles distant, a clean, comfortable little place, with two good hotels (a temperance hotel, and Mrs. Casson's, one of the neatest in the country). A very pleasant day may be spent here in ascending the Diamond Mountain.

Two miles further on the road to Leenane, the tourist crosses the River Dawross, which conveys the waters of Kylemore Lake and Pollacappul to Ballynakele Harbour. From this bridge the first view is caught of the unrivalled Pass of Kylemore. It is about three miles long, and is endowed with a beauty peculiarly its own. In the distance the Twelve Pins rear their lofty heads, looking like the guardian genii of the Pass. The mountains to the left, or north of the road, rise precipitously, and are wooded half-way up, the summits being bare

-bold and lofty crags jutting out at intervals. This wood, from which the place takes its name-Kylemore, or "big wood

-is the only ancient wood now remaining in the whole country, which was at one time covered with forest, as is evidenced by the large quantity of timber still existing in the bogs. In this wood is found the exquisite white heath. The mountains to the right, and across the lakes, are less precipitous, but are completely bare of trees, and but scantily covered with grass and heather, so that they sparkle in the sun, and by moonlight appear quite silvery. Having left the Pass, we behold the shores of Killery in all their magical beauty. The village of Leenane is situated at the inland extremity of the bay. This mountain-locked arm of the sea resembles much a Norwegian fiord, but without wood or foliage. It is ten miles in length, and not quite half a mile in width; and the narrow mouth being protected by an island, one would easily be deceived into thinking it a lake; but, as Mr. Otway says, "there is scarcely any lake that has not a flat, tame end, generally that where the superabundant waters flow off and form a river. But here nothing was tame-on every side the magnificent mountains seemed to vie with each other which should catch and keep your attention most. Northwards the Fenamore Mountains; the Partree range to the east; Maam Turc to the south. A little more to the south-west the sparkling cones of the Twelve Pins of Benabola; then a little more to the west, the Renvyle Mountain; and off to the north again, the monarch of the whole amphitheatre, Mweelrea,

With its cap of clouds that it had caught,
And anon flings fitfully off.""

Whilst he is at Leenane, the tourist should make an excursion to Delphi, a sight which, it has been said, would alone repay the trouble of the journey from London. For information as to this and other excursions to Salruck Pass, Innisturk Island, and Renvyle House, the tourist may consult our Guide to the district. The Killery Bay Hotel affords accommodation at Leenane.

From Leenane, en route to Westport (eighteen miles), the road winds along the shore of Killery, up the banks of the Eriff River, amid scenes of great variety. The road is a good one, though, after leaving Eriff Bridge, rather uninteresting, until Croagh Patrick comes in sight-the famous Croagh Patrick, on which the national saint stood when he banished the venomous snakes and toads from Ireland. Westport (Railway Hotel and Imperial) was once a flourishing town, and evidences of its former prosperity are apparent in the number of empty warehouses, large enough, as Thackeray, with exaggeration, says, to contain the merchandise of Manchester. The "Mall," which is the principal street, runs the whole length of the town. Through this street flows the stream, which, before entering the town, waters the beautiful demesne of the Marquis of Sligo, whose plantations