which its almost perpendicular sides "bristle" with trees of every description. Before the construction of the present road, there was no mode of issuing out of the defile," says Scott, "excepting by a sort of ladder composed of the branches and roots of trees:"

"No pathway met the wanderer's view,
Unless he climb'd with footing nice

A far projecting precipice:

The broom's tough roots his ladder made,
The hazel saplings lent their aid."

As the tourist approaches the Trosachs Hotel and lovely Loch Achray, the spot is passed, presumably somewhere near to the entrance of the gorge, in which the "gallant grey" of Fitz James fell exhausted with the prolonged chase, leaving his master to wander on foot. The whole place has become so imbued with the spirit of the poem that the guides actually profess to identify the place, as if the romance had been matter of history! The hotel is a handsome modern castellated building, commanding some fine prospects. The accommodation is ex cellent, and although the situation may at first be thought to be somewhat secluded, the visitor need not grudge a stay of several days. Delightful excursions may be made on foot to many notable spots in the neighbourhood-such, for instance, as Glenfinlas or Aberfoyle-and there is much to be seen, in connection with the neighbouring lochs and mountains, which will repay the lover of nature.

The road, after leaving the hotel, lies along the northern shore of the lake, sometimes at an elevation of 50 feet, sometimes bordered so thickly by trees as to shut out all sight of the water. The two miles' length of the loch being completed, the coach draws near Glenfinlas on the left, and passes the Brig of Turk, where Fitz James discovered he had outpaced all his followers. The deer forest of Glenfinlas is the property of the Earl of Moray, and is greatly esteemed on account of the extent and richness of its pasture. 'Duncraggan's huts" now appear, and here formerly stood the New Trosachs Hotel. It was, however, destroyed by fire some years since, and has not been rebuilt. About one mile up Glenfinlas is the cataract of the "Hero's Targe," well worth a visit, if opportunity permits. Half a mile farther an eminence is reached, looking back from which a splendid vista, terminating in Benvenue and the Trosachs, is opened to the admiring gaze.

The tourist is now close to the spot where, after the whistle of Roderick Dhu, before the wondering gaze of Fitz James

"Instant, through copse and heath, arose
Bonnets, and spears, and bended bows;
On right, on left, above, below;"

for the level ground lying between Lochs Achray and Vennachar is Lanrick Mead, the muster-place to which the symbol of

BRACKLINN FALLS.

155

the Fiery Cross bade the members of Clan Alpine. Following much the same course as the Fiery Cross, the tourist now passes along the northern shore of Loch Vennachar. To the south, where now stand the ruins of an old mill, flows the Teith, and in that locality is Coilantogle Ford, to which Roderick pledged his word to lead the king in safety. It is undeniable that the scenery in this place has suffered, in a poetic sense, on account of the erection by the Glasgow Water Company of artificial works in connection with the mills on the Teith, as they were forced to raise the banks of Loch Vennachar several feet, to form the necessary reservoir. The route now lies past Dunmore, where there are remains of an old British fort, surrounded by three tiers of ditches and mounds, the latter strengthened and secured with stones, and provided with a reservoir for water. We then come to Kilmahog Toll, by the Vale of Bochastle and "Samson's Putting Stone,' a huge boulder on the side of a spur of Benledi. Crossing the river Leny at Kilmahog Bridge, the turn to the right leads to Callander [Hotels-the Dreadnought, and McGregor's].

As the distance travelled from Inversnaid is upwards of twenty-two miles, we shall suppose the tourist to put up at Callander for the night. In the morning excursions may be made to the Roman Fort, and

"Carchonzie's torrents' sounding shore,"

passed on the way the previous evening, in the Vale of Bochastle, and to Bracklinn Falls, two miles on the opposite side of Callander. The falls are formed by the river Kelty, which here has forced a channel through a hill of red sandstone, and bursts through, realizing very sufficiently the descriptive lines of Thomson :

"Between two meeting hills it bursts away,

Where rocks and woods o'erhang the turbid stream;
There, gathering triple force, rapid and deep,

It boils, and wheels, and foams, and thunders through."

Bracklinn is a dangerous place, and great care is requisite, as the edges are unprotected and slippery, and the fall 50 feet high. The chasm is crossed by a rude bridge of planks, protected by hand-rails, from which, some twenty-five years ago, a man and woman belonging to a wedding party fell into the seething waters, and were of course drowned.

From Callander the tourist will take the train to Killin, whence coaches run to Oban and Ballachulish.

Immediately beyond the village the line crosses the river Leny, or Teith as it is called by Scott, and enters the ravine through which the river flows from Loch Lubnaig, the waters of that lake uniting with those of Loch Vennachar. Close by here is the old burying-place of the clan Buchanan, a quiet, lonely spot. On the right may be seen Leny House (J. Buchanan

Hamilton, Esq.), at the back of which there is a romantic glen, open to the public twice a week. A little farther onwards are the ruins of St. Bride's Chapel. Half a mile beyond we get our first view of Loch Lubnaig, a fine sheet of water, about five miles long, and one broad. On both sides it is overhung by rugged mountains, and surrounded by groves of birch, pine, and hazel. One of the most favourable positions for obtaining a good view of the loch is from the farm-house of Ardchullary, some five miles from Callander. Additional interest attaches to this house, owing to its having been the favourite residence of Bruce, the celebrated Abyssinian traveller. It may not be amiss to mention here that few modern undertakings have been attended with greater difficulty than was the formation of the railway along the banks of Loch Lubnaig. The mountain, in places, encroaches upon the loch, and cuttings had to be made; elsewhere the water had to be crossed upon embankments-this occurs in six places. These embankments took two years to make, as it at first seemed almost impossible to reach the water-level, owing to the varying depth of the loch. The train takes the western shore, and passes under the base of Ben Ledi (the Hill of God). This mountain is 2,882 feet in height, and until a late period (according to the Statistical Account) had heathen rites in honour of Baal performed on the summit.

From the loch the train skirts Strathyre, and stops at the village of that name, about nine miles from Callander. Two miles farther the road to Balquhidder Braes branches off to the left. This road follows the course of the bearer of the Fiery Cross:

"The signal roused to martial coil

The sullen margin of Loch Voil,

Waked still Loch Doine, and to the source
Alarm'd Balvaig, thy swampy course;
Then southward turn'd its rapid road

Adown Strath-Gartney's valley broad."

In the direction of the Braes the old church appears, in the graveyard of which Rob Roy lies buried. A short distance farther is Letter, where we reach the station from which departure may be taken for Lochearnhead. The line passes Lochearnhead at a very high elevation, and affords a fine view of Loch Earn on the right, with the towering summit of Ben Voirlich (3,300 feet) a little to the south; it now leads through the gloomy valley of Glenogle, at the height of 300 feet, over viaducts and cuttings, and stops at Killin.

From Killin to Ballachulish by stage-coach is fifty-four miles, and to Oban sixty-nine.