ascend the upper part of High Street, known as the "Bell of Brae," where, according to Blind Harry, Sir William Wallace defeated Percy and his English forces. Reaching the top we have on our left Rotten Row, or the "Street of Processions," which marks the boundary of the ancient cathedral city. On the right is the former site of the Duke of Montrose's castle, and the house in which Queen Mary nursed Darnley through the small-pox, just before his murder, at Edinburgh, by the infamous Bothwell. We now approach the Cathedral, the finest specimen of Gothic architecture in Scotland, which was in the year 1579 saved from the fury of the Reformers by the citizens. It was founded in the reign of David I., 1123, by Bishop Achaius, and built by Murdo, the famous architect of the other gigantic structures mentioned in the following inscription on his tomb:

"Iohn Murdo sometime callit was I,

In Pargese born certainlie;

And had in keeping al mason-werk,
Sanct Andros, the hie kirke
Of Glasgow, Melros, and Paisley,
Of Niddisdal, and of Galway."

It does not appear, however, to have been finished till 1197, this being the date on the dedication stone. The plan is cruciform, and extends in length 230 feet, across the walls; in breadth, 63; in height within the walls, 90. There are two square towers, one of which has a pointed octangular spire, rising to the height of 225 feet. Three churches, with their respective clergy, were originally comprised in the one building. Of these, the crypt, used as the church of the Barony parish, is thus described in "Rob Roy:"-" An extensive range of low-browed, dark, and twilight vaults, such as are used for sepulchres in other countries, and had long been dedicated to the same purpose in this, a portion of which was seated with pews, and used as a church. The part of the vaults thus occupied, though capable of containing a congregation of many hundreds, bore a small proportion to the dark or more extensive caverns which yawned around what may be termed the inhabited space. In those waste regions of oblivion dusky banners and tattered escutcheons indicated the graves of those who were once, doubtless, princes in Israel.' Inscriptions which could only be read by the painful antiquary, in language as obsolete as the act of devotional charity which they implored, invited the passengers to pray for the souls of those whose bodies rested beneath." This portion of the building extends beneath the choir. The most modern additions which have been made to Glasgow Cathedral are eighty-one stainedglass windows inserted within the last half-century, partly by Government grants, and partly by the liberal contributions of the nobles and gentry. They were executed in Munich, at the Royal Establishment of Glass Painting, and are, of course, not

in the first style of art. The names of the particular artists, and the subjects depicted, will be found in a little descriptive catalogue sold on the premises for a few pence.

The cathedral is bounded on the east by the Molendinar Burn, across which the "Bridge of Sighs" leads to the Necropolis, which was opened in the year 1830, upon an eminence, rising abruptly to the height of 250 feet, and commanding almost the only general view to be obtained of Glasgow. This city of the dead is tastefully laid out, and teems with monumental erections of every description, from the statue-crowned Doric column of Knox to the " 'frail memorials,"

"With uncouth rhyme and shapeless sculpture deck'd,"

which "implore the passing tribute of a sigh" for the sleepers beneath the turf. The prospect from here is very fine. To the south and west the city's maze of streets spreads out, diversified by the various church steeples and the larger public buildings. Due south, at the foot of the hill, are the mineral spring of Ladywell, and the Bridewell, or Gaol. On the northwest towers the St. Rollox chimney, which draws off the poisonous effluvia of the largest chemical works in the world, and vomits them towards the clouds into the pure air at a height of 468 feet. The diameter of this huge chimney varies from 36 feet at the base to 14 feet at the summit. Glancing round towards the south once more, Nelson's Monument is seen; and nearer, almost at our feet, the Hunterian Museum and College, now converted into the Coatbridge Railway station. The company have shown much taste, by sparing the more antique portions of the old structure in the necessary alterations which have been made. The museum, however, had to be demolished, and the fine collection of books, coins, paintings, &c., valued at £130,000, has been removed to the new University buildings.

Passing down High Street, on our return from the Necropolis, we reach the Saltmarket, which readers of "Rob Roy" will remember as the abode of Bailie Nicol Jarvie. This, and Bridgegate, nearer the river, where Cromwell lodged, were formerly the principal streets of the city, but are now inhabited only by the very poorest classes. After this, we pass Gaol Square and the City Court-houses, and enter Glasgow Green-the people's park -which is divided into three portions, called High Green, Low Green, and King's Park. În High Green stands Nelson's Obelisk, 143 feet high. From this the tourist will do well to proceed to the south side to Queen's Park, which has an area of 100 acres. The south end of this park was the battle-field of Langside, where Mary's forces were defeated by the Regent Murray, as she was on her way to Dumbarton Castle. Mary, who had watched the varying phases of the struggle from Cath cart Castle (not Cruickston Castle, as Scott wrongly represents

in "The Abbot"), after witnessing the defeat of her adherents, fled to the borders, and thence to the fatal shelter of Elizabeth's dominions.

Returning to the north side, via the splendid thoroughfares of Eglinton and Bridge Streets, we proceed to view the west end of the town. We reach Argyle Street, which runs almost parallel with the course of the river for a distance of three miles, if we include the Trongate, as its eastern extremity, finishing at the Cross, is called. Here stands the statue of William III., and the Tontine buildings, formerly the centre of Glasgow's commercial industry. The Town Hall buildings are also to be seen here. The portraits, however, have been removed from the hall, and the piazza of the Tontine has been converted into shops. Nearly all the principal streets run horizontally north and south from Argyle Street. Close by the point reached in coming from the bridge is Buchanan Street, the site of the best shops, most of which are very elegant structures. The south-western corner of the block of buildings between Buchanan and Queen Streets is cut off by the Arcade, a favourite promenade. At the north end of the same block is the Royal Exchange, the finest building in Glasgow. It is of the Corinthian order of architecture, and cost £50,000. The newsroom, 130 feet by 60, is beautifully decorated, and has a remarkably handsome arched ceiling, supported by fluted columns. It is free to the public. In front of the Exchange a colossal equestrian statue of Wellington has been erected, at a cost of £10,000. The pedestal contains representations of the Duke's various victories in alto-relievo. Behind the Exchange stands the Royal Bank. Walking down Gordon Street, from the Exchange, and turning to the right, we reach Sauchiehall Street, in which are situated the Corporation Galleries, containing the late Archibald McLellan's fine collection of ancient paintings, the marble statue of Pitt, by Chantrey, from the Old Town Hall, besides other art treasures. The entire district from this westward to the park contains numerous churches and chapels of great elegance, and, as we approach the park gate, the handsome residences of the Glasgow aristocracy. Kelvin Grove Park, or the West End Park, as it is now called, situated on the western bank of the Kelvin, has cost the corporation upwards of £100,000, and, considering its situation and the manner in which it is laid out, well deserves the estimation in which it is held by all Glasgow men. A short distance north of the park are the Botanic Gardens, which cannot fail to please. They are admirably laid out, have a fine collection of native and foreign plants, and are most picturesquely situated on the banks of the Kelvin. The Observatory stands at the southern extremity, commanding views of the new University, on the opposite bank of the stream, and of the city. The foundation of the University was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1868, and £260,000 has been already expended on its erection, but the