Ullapool although broken by occasional rocky headlands, is entirely different. There is a large extent of good arable land, consisting of a light, sharp soil, which yields good grain crops, as well as potatoes, turnips, &c. The whole length of the island is now traversed by at least one good road; whilst excellent school-houses have been provided, and the inns improved perhaps as much as can for the present be expected in a locality so remote. The population of Harris and Bernera is about 4000; North Uist, 4000; South Uist, 5000; Barra, 2000. PORTREE TO STORNO WAY, After leaving Portree the steamer resumes her course through the Sound of Raasay, having Skye on the left, and Raasay and Rona Islands on the right. On emerging from the Sound of Raasay we enter the Minch, and steer a north-easterly course along the shores of Ross-shire, passing Loch Torridon and Gairloch. After about three hours' sail from Portree the steamer passes close to Rhu Rea Point, at the entrance of Loch Ewe, and shortly thereafter Greenstone Point, at the entrance of Loch Gruinard, also little Loch Broom, as well as Isle Martin' and Priest Island. The shores at the entrance of Loch Broom (the lake of showers) are bold and rocky. The sail from the mouth of the loch to Ullapool occupies three-quarters of an hour. The scenery is grand, "Ben More," the highest hill in the district, standing out very prominently. At Ullapool the steamer goes alongside a safe and substantial pier. The village, founded by the British Fishery Society about eighty years ago, stands on a fine terraced, gravelly promontory, about half-a-mile square, between the loch and the mouth of the river of Achall. The houses are ranged in several parallel lines, and the most conspicuous buildings are the church, manse, and hotel. The hotel accommodation is comfortable, and there is a postal and telegraph office in the village. The inhabitants, in number about 800, are chiefly employed in fishing. The beach at Ullapool affords good bathing facilities. In summer the air, although soft, is bracing-the surrounding scenery is often enlivened by the sight of boats and vessels, which come to anchor in the loch. A coach and mail car runs between Garve Station, on the Dingwall and Skye section of the Highland Railway, and Ullapool (distance 32 miles) and vice versa, daily during summer, and three days a week during winter; and Mr. MacBrayne's steamer, carrying the Lewis and Harris mails, plies in connection between Stornoway and Ullapool on those days. Some miles inland is Loch Achall, the source of the river Ullapool. In the glen through which the river flows there is a waterfall, which is well worth seeing. Coigach, as the district northward as far as the boundary of Sutherland is called, is exceedingly wild, and the drive along the road from Ullapool to Coigach brings scenery to view of the most magnificent description. The sail from Ullapool to Lochinver occupies two hours, the route being along the shores of Sutherlandshire, passing the island of Tanera and the Summer Isles. Approaching Lochinver a series of huge mountain Lochinver masses are seen-in the distance Cumaig and Ben More (2543 feet); in the centre, Caneshb, (2786 feet), and Suil Bhein, (or the "Sugar Loaf") (2403 feet), and behind Coul More, Coul Beg, and Ben More of Coigach. M'Culloch thus graphically describes the situation of Lochinver :- "Round about there are four mountains, which seem as if they had tumbled down from the clouds, having nothing to do with the country or each other, either in shape, material, position, or character, and which look very much as if they were wondering how they got there." The village of Lochinver, composed of a few scattered houses, lies at the head of the loch. Culag House is finely situated, close to the sea, on the bay at Lochinver. Until recently it was occupied by the Duke of Sutherland, but is now leased as an hotel by Mr. Burns Brown, of Inverness (who has also the Lochinver old Inn). Visitors have the privilege of fishing in the rivers Kirkaig and Inver, which are close to the hotel, and afford good sport. There are also several lochs in the immediate neighbourhood, celebrated for the number, variety, and heavy weight of the trout which frequent their waters. The Falls of Kirkaig, five miles from the hotel, are well worthy of a visit. Stoir Lighthouse is six miles off. The scenery around is extremely beautiful, and geologically the neighbourhood of Lochinver is of great interest. It was the frequent resort of Sir Roderick Murchison, Professor Sedgwick, Professor Nicol, of Aberdeen, and other scientific men, and the district has always been a popular resort of tourists, and promises to be much more visited now that the steamboat communication has been so greatly increased. It is in the option of the captain to call at either Ullapool or Lochinver first. The purser of the steamer will give definite information as to the time the vessel is likely to be detained at the different ports of call. The steamer again resumes her course, and in about Stornoway four hours enters the harbour of Stornoway. PORTREE TO STORNOWAY, Via Gairloch, Poolewe and Aultbea. The steamer now passes out of Portree Bay, and enters the Sound of Raasay, where the hills on both sides rise almost perpendicularly from the sea. A description of the route between Portree and Gairloch will be found on pages 70, 71, 72 and 73. The sail between the two ports-Portree and Gairloch-occupies two hours and a Gairloch quarter. The steamer usually remains at Gairloch, where there is a postal and telegraph office, for about two hours; but the detention entirely depends upon the quantity of cargo to be discharged. We are again in the Minch; away on our left is seen that group of islands called the "Outer Hebrides," while behind, in the far distance, we see the lofty Cuchullins towering in majestic grandeur. The north end of Skye, in all its rugged beauty, can also be seen; while on our right the noble "Ben Slioch," with the morning sun dispelling the mist from his brow, gazes with pride upon the mirrored sea. The islands on our left, and nearer than Lews, are the Shiant Isles. Entering Loch Ewe, a number of crofters' houses are seen on the right, with their picturesque stripes of cultivated land; while on the left is Isle Ewe and Aultbea. We now arrive at Poolewe, which is situated at the Poolewe head of the loch: the village comprises a few slated and thatched houses. There is a good hotel, as well as a postal and telegraph office here. The road from Poolewe to Gairloch passes along the foot of Loch Maree, the distance being six mile.. A mail car runs between these places three times a week. The grandest view of Loch Maree is obtained about a mile from Poolewe, before descending the steep slope of Tolly; the whole length of the loch (18 miles), with the landscape several miles beyond, being visible to the eye. Looking northwards, Loch Ewe, stretching out into the Minch, is seen, with the river Ewe, which connects the two lochs, flowing at its foot. This river separates the properties of Gairloch (Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, Bart.) and Inverewe (Osgood H. Mackenzie, Esq.) Inverewe House is nicely situated amongst a clump of trees on the east side of the loch, and is partly visible from the steamer. Out next port of call is Aultbea, the sail from Poolewe Auba occupying half an hour. The village is situated on the north-east side of Loch Ewe, the houses being scattered along the sea-beach. Facing Aultbea is Isle Ewe (13 miles in length), a very fertile isiand, on which are a number of houses, and conspicuous amongst them is the farm steading of William Reid, Esq. We now steam out of Loch Ewe, and enter the Minch. A sail of three hours brings us in sight of Stornoway, Stornoway and passing the lighthouse, we enter one of the finest harbours on the West Coast. PORTREE TO STORNOWAY, DIRECT. After about two hours' stay at Portree, the stcamer resumes her course along the northern shores of Skye, affording the tourist a view of the famous Storr Rock and Quiraing. After passing the north end of Skye, the Shiant isles, belonging to the Lews, are seen on the left. These islands are of the same geological formation as the northern part of Skye, and different from that of Lews and Harris, and their chief features are the great number of sea birds on them in summer, and the fine green natural grasses in winter. In the distance, on the left, are seen the highest hills in the Outer Hebrides“Chesham” in Harris (2,600 feet), and "Ben-More Lews (1,600 feet). in As we approach Lews, we can see only rock and heather on the high ground on our left. The several sea-lochs that run inland, and the numerous crofter townships on their edges cannot well be seen from the steamer. A little further on, the lower ground ahead, and, on our right, a long, flat-topped hill (Munch, 808 feet), standing towards the north end of Lews, comes into view. The land nearer, and more to the right, is the Point of Eye, almost cut off from the rest of Lews, the breadth at some parts being only 130 yards. On nearing the lighthouse at Arnish point, tourists will observe a hollow right ahead, which divides the conglomerate from the gneiss, and the division runs almost due north through the middle of Stornoway Harbour, for about ten miles in a line a little to the east of Toltsa glen, on the north side of Broadbay. Stornoway is beautifully situated; Lewis Castle, on the heights, with its finely laid out grounds, and the town, bustling with active life, make a very pleasant picture. The population is about 3,000, and there are four churches (Established, Free, United Presbyterian, and Episcopalian), also a Court-house. The tourist would do well to visit Lewis Castle, in the immediate neighbourhood. By the approach from Bayhead Street the distance is half a mile. In the demesne are ten miles of carriage drives, and five miles of foot walks. The flatter ground along the principal drive has been finely planted with trees, and the sharp sloping ground with grass and plantation alternating. From the Castle a fine view of the town, harbour, and outlying districts can be had, with the hills of Ross and Sutherland shires in the distance. The principal place of interest in the country is Callernish, where there are a number of druidical stones. This is one of the favourite places which tourists visit. Near to Callernish is the little inn of Garry-na-hine, which Mr. Black describes in his "Princess of Thule." About 16 miles from Stornoway is the famed Toch Grimister |