OBAN TO SKYE.

The Skye steamers sail from Glasgow twice a week (during the summer season), viz., on Thursday and Monday.* They both take the long route round the Mull of Cantire, and do not arrive at Oban till the next morning between six and eight o'clock. As this involves sleeping one night on board and exposure to a rough sea, it is advisable rather to take the quick steamer, which sails every morning from Glasgow to Ardrishaig, from which the tourist is conveyed by the Crinan Canal to Oban. In this way Oban is reached in time to rest comfortably at the inn, and to start the next morning.

Leaving Oban in one of these steamers, we proceed by the Sound of Mull in the same way as already described in the route from Oban to Staffa (pp. 444 to 450), until we start on the second stage of our journey from Tobermory, where the steamer generally arrives about noon. Crossing the mouth of Loch Sunart, which extends twenty miles among the hills to the eastward, the steamer leaves the Sound of Mull, and begins to double Ardnamurchan Point, where the heaviest sea throughout the voyage is experienced, and where a stiff breeze from the westward is apt to poison the pleasures of the picturesque. The long-shaped low-looking islands of Coil and Tiree, seen here towards the west, are left behind, when the more picturesque heights of Muck and Rum start into view. Rum is a series of high sharp-peaked mountains, of which Ben More rises to the height of 2320 feet. The steamer then touches at Faskadle, and afterwards passes the mouth of Loch Moidart, into which the fresh waters of Loch Shiel discharge themselves by the river of the same name. On a rocky pro

In case of change, it is necessary to verify this by consulting the proprietors' advertisements; or the tourist may write to the steamboat oflice, Oban, for a bill of the sailings some days before.

Skye may be approached by land if the tourist have an aversion to the sea. In this case he has the choice of various routes during the summer months, two of which have been already mentioned. The third is by Dingwall, twelve miles north of Inverness, from which the Skye mail-coach proceeds thrice every week, through the southern part of Ross-shire, a county abounding in a variety of picturesque Highland scenery.

montory on the shore, stand the ruins of Castle Tyrim, an ancient stronghold of Clanranald, burned by its proprietor in 1715, before he set out to join the Earl of Mar, prior to the battle of Sheriffmuir. This act of arson he resorted to, that the castle might not fall into the hands of his hereditary enemies, the Campbells, during his absence. The barren promontory on which the castle stands, and a small wooded islet near it, are the last remaining territorial possessions of Clanranald.

The tourist has here a good view, looking west, of the island of Eig. Scuir-Eigg is a high peak in its centre, well known to mineralogists, as affording many interesting specimens, and to others whom chance or curiosity may lead to the island, for the astonishing view of the mainland and neighbouring isles which it commands.* This romantic district is indented by

* A cavern on the shore of this island was the scene of a dreadful tale of feudal vengeance, of which unfortunately there are relics that still attest the truth. This noted cave has a very narrow opening, through which one could hardly creep on his knees and hands. It rises steep and lofty within, and runs into the bowels of the rock to the depth of 255 measured feet; the height at the entrance may be about 3 feet, but rises within to 18 or 20, and the breadth may vary in the same proportion. The rude and stony bottom is strewed with the bones of men, women and children, the sad relics of the ancient inhabitants of the island, 200 in number, who were slain on the following occasion:-The Macdonalds of the Isle of Eig, a people dependent on Clanranald, had done some injury to the Laird of MacLeod. The tradition of the isles says, that it was by a personal attack on the chieftain, in which his back was broken. But that of the other isles bears, more probably, that the injury was offered to two or three of the MacLeods, who, landing upon Eig, and using some freedom with the young women, were seized by the islanders, bound hand and foot, and turned adrift in a boat, which the winds and waves safely conducted to Skye. To avenge the offence given, MacLeod sailed with such a body of men as rendered resistance hopeless. The natives, fearing his vengeance, concealed themselves in this cavern, and, after a strict search, the MacLeods went on board their galleys, after doing what mischief they could, concluding the inhabitants had left the isle, and betaken themselves to the Long Island, or some of Clanranald's other possessions. But next morning they espied from the vessels a man upon the island, and immediately landing again, they traced his retreat by the marks of his footsteps, a light snow being unhappily on the ground. MacLeod then surrounded the cavern, summoned the subterranean garrison, and demanded that the individuals who had offended him should be delivered up to him. This was peremptorily refused. The chieftain then caused his people to divert the course of a rill of water, which, falling over the entrance of the cave, would have prevented his purposed vengeance. He then kindled at the entrance of the cavern a huge fire, composed of turf and fern, and maintained it with unrelenting assiduity, until all within were destroyed by

suffocation.

numerous sea-lochs, of which Loch Aylort and Loch na Naugh are interesting as the melancholy scene of the commencement and conclusion of Prince Charles' unfortunate expedition. It was here he first landed ; and from which, after his defeat at Culloden, he was conveyed to France.

The steamer occasionally calls at Arisaig, where there is an inn, and from which there is a road by Locheil to Bannavic, a distance of 46 miles. The scenery along this road is of the most romantic description, and if conveyances could be got, would be a favourite route.

The steamer now enters the Sound of Sleat, and gradually nears the south-eastern shore of Skye, on which is situated Armadale Castle, the seat of Lord Macdonald, the largest proprietor in Skye, occupying a fine situation on a gentle slope, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. It is surrounded on all sides by thriving plantations, which, with the woods of Dunvegan in the district of Kilmuir, may be said to form the whole woodland scenery of the island. A little beyond it are the ruins of Knock Castle, seated on a rocky promontory projecting into the sea, while to the right are seen the dark and massy mountains that rise in awful grandeur at the head of Loch Hourn, which loch bounds on the north the magnificent estate of Knoydart, recently acquired by Mr. Baird of Gartsherrie. Conspicuous in the range of mountains is the lofty Ben Screel, a mountain with a noble outline, ascending from the loch with a vast regular slope, and becoming greyer and more granitic-looking as it ascends, till at last its hoary head becomes one huge rounded stony cairn, piercing the clear blue sky.

Proceeding northwards, we pass on the left the island and inn of Oronsay, from which a road strikes across to Broadford.

"Near the top of the first reach, on a level plain, backed by lofty hills, and sheltered by a grove of ancient timber trees, stands the house of Barrisdale. Here the loch turns off to the left, through a narrow throat obstructed by islands. The whole mountains around Loch fourn are lofty and picturesque, sweeping down in grand lines towards the water's edge, often green where crags and copse are not prevalent, and covered by multitudinous flocks of sheep, chiefly white-faced or Cheviots, which, though worse mutton, are of hardier constitution, and produce more valuable fleeces than the black-faced kind. The summits are for the most part bare and rocky. Several houses, and a sprinkling of Highland hamlets, with a few fishing-boats, are to be seen upon the northern shore, especially Arnisdale, a regular village, with a population of about 600 inhabitants."-Wilson's Voyage.

We now enter the bay of Glenelg, abounding in bold picturesque scenery on both sides, and which on the north appears landlocked. The hills of Glenelg are extremely picturesque, and well seen here on the right. At the village and pier of Glenelg are the ruined barracks of Bernera, built as a military station to maintain the authority of the Hanoverian government among the clans. At Kyle Rhea Ferry, a narrow strait with a current, there is a road to Shiel Inn, from the ferry-house on the east side, and from the one on the west to Broadford. Loch Alsh, another arm of the sea, divides, at its upper extremity, into the lateral branches of Loch Ling and

*

LOCH DUICH.

[Inns: Balmacarra Inn; Shiel Inn.† 63 miles from Inverness; 9 from Dornie Ferry.]

This loch, which forms the south-eastern branch of Loch

This alpine road from Kyle Rhea to Shiel Inn and Loch Duich, is carried over a mountain called Mam-Rattachan, and is a triumph of engineering skill, and very romantic. The views of Loch Duich from various points on the road are very striking. On the side of the hill ascending from Glenelg, a very grand view is obtained of Ben Screel, and the other mountains of Loch Hourn.

+ The falls of the Glomak (said to be the highest in Scotland) are twelve miles from Shiel Inn, but their distance will be better understood by the time taken in

Alsh, is a magnificent land-locked lake, with fine bold sweeping mountains, wooded on their downward slopes with rich low projecting points, and an enclosing background of high pyramidal mountains at its upper extremity. The northeastern branch of Loch Alsh is called Loch Ling, but Loch Duich is by much the finer loch, from its form and the greater height of the mountains.

The entrance to Loch Ling or Loung is narrow and crooked, and on its southern bank lies the neat fishing village of Dornie, where there is a ferry for the parliamentary road between Loch Alsh and Kintail. Upon an insular rock at the head of Loch Alsh are the ruins of the castle of Eilan Donan, the ancient stronghold of the Mackenzies of Kintail, and which was built in the time of Alexander II. as a defence against the Northmen. It is a bold keep. On the angle next the land there is a small hexagonal tower, or walled space, filled with water, probably the ancient well.

Proceeding onwards, we pass successively, on the right, Balmacarra House (Alex. Matheson, Esq.), and Balmacarra Inn, beautifully situated; Old Loch Alsh House and Inn; and on the right, the ruins of Castle Moil.

The steamer now reaches

the journey, which is three hours' heavy walking. Returning takes two hours and a half. A guide is required, as no one would discover the path unless he were acquainted with the locality. As far as Mr. Mathieson's shooting lodge (5 m.) the road is good, and may be driven, but the remaining 7 m. are partly over a stony footpath, and partly through ferns, bogs, and heather. The ascent is steep and wearisome until within a mile of the falls.

Descending the vast and appalling-looking valley through which the Glomak water flows, we reach the ravine or gully down which it is precipitated. In dry weather the sight does not repay the toil of getting to it, and a great detraction from the fall at any time is the difficulty of obtaining a good position from which to view it, occasioned by the shelving of the rocks. Tourists are often taken to the head of the falls, from which they can only see a little water making its way down an awful abyss with a loud rushing sound. To see it properly, it would be necessary to get to the bottom, but we do not think that this is practicable, or that its attempt would be by any means safe. The valley down which the Glomak water flows is bleak and desolate beyond description, and surrounded by mountains of the most formidable dimensions. If any one wishes to see a good specimen of the stern sublimity of Highland scenery, let him come here, but let him not expect much from the falls.