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"A GOOD prospect alone will ease melancholy, stands on the right of the road. The Romans as Cornesius contends," says Burton in his 'Ana- are supposed to have marched by this route on tomy; and, if change of air is strongly re- their way northwards from the station at Amblecommended in some complaints, as most likely to side. Near the summit, a road diverges to the effect a cure, the remedy is generally much en- valley of Troutbeck. "The rude picturesquehanced by being connected with change of scene; ness of its many-chimneyed cottages, with their and it is this circumstance which renders visits to unnumbered gables and slate-slab porticoes will fresh localities so useful. The tourist at Gras- not be passed unnoticed by the tourist as he bends mere, desirous of visiting Ulles Water, if a reso- his way towards the hills. The cottages stand lute pedestrian, may find his way to Patterdale for the most part in clusters of twos and threes, at the head of that lake, by crossing the moun- with here and there what in Scotland is called a tains by Grisdale; but his wiser plan will be to clachan'-many a sma' toun within the ae lang return to Ambleside, and from thence travel by toun-but where in all broad Scotland is a milethe road to Patterdale over the steep pass of Kirk-long scattered congregation of rural dwellings, stone, the summit of which is fenced in by the all dropped down where the painter and the poet

VOL. XVII.

M

146

would have wished to plant them, on knolls and
in dells, on banks and braes, and below tree-
crested rocks, and all bound together in pictu-
resque confusion, by old groves of ash, oak, and
sycamore, and by flower gardens and fruit
orchards, rich as those of the Hesperides?" (Wil-
The cottages are
see Black's Tour).
usually scattered over the valleys, and under the
hills and on the rocks; and even to this day, in
the more retired dales, without any intrusion of
more assuming buildings—

son

"Cluster'd like stars some few, but single most, And lurking dimly in their shy retreats, Or glancing on each other's cheerful looks, Like separated stars with clouds between." Brothers' Water, backed by Dove Crags and other acclivities, clothed with native wood, here attracts attention; said to take its name from two brothers having been drowned in it whilst skating.

Hayes Water also will be seen at a short distance, lying between High-street and Grey Crag, two miles above Hartshope. Angle Tarn in the same neighbourhood is noted for its trout.

Reaching Patterdale, the tourist will find every
suitable accommodation for a few days' residence,
to visit the splendid scenery in the neighbour-
hood, a description of which would far exceed
the limits of these papers. "Owing to the popu-
lation in the lake country not being concentrated
in villages, but scattered, the valleys themselves
are intersected by innumerable lanes and path-
ways, leading from house to house and from field
to field; and it is a great advantage to the tra-
veller or resident that these, if he be a zealous ad-
mirer of nature, will lead him into the recesses of
the country, so that the hidden treasures of its
landscapes may, by an ever-ready guide, be laid
open to his eyes" (Wordsworth). In the chapel
yard of Patterdale stands a remarkable yew tree.
Tourists, in general, prefer viewing the lake
scenery by travelling against the current of the
lake; and, with respect to Ulles Water, this will
be the advantage of those travelling from the
north, from Penrith, for instance, from which
there are two roads to Pooley Bridge at the foot
of the lake; but the same advantage will be
gained by proceeding to Pooley Bridge by water
from Patterdale. One of the roads from Pen-
rith turns off about two miles and a half on the
road to Keswick: the other proceeds along the
Shap road, and crosses Eamont Bridge, and then
turns off. Near this spot is king Arthur's round
table, a circular area above twenty yards in
diameter, surrounded by a fosse and mound;
with two opposite approaches conducting to it.

"He pass'd red Penrith's table round,
For feats of chivalry renowned,

Left Mayborough's mound, and stones of power
By druid raised in magic hour,

And traced the Eamont's winding way,

Till Ulfo's lake beneath him lay."

BRIDAL OF TRIERMAIN.

As the fosse is on the inner side, it could not be
intended for defence, but probably for feats of
chivalry, and the embankment around for specta-
tors. Higher up the Eamont is Mayborough,
an area of nearly one hundred yards in diameter,
surrounded by a mound of pebble stones elevated

several feet. In the centre is a block of unhewn
stone eleven feet high, supposed to have been a
place of druidical judicature.

At Yanwath, two and a half miles from Penrith, are the ruins of one of the "noble houses" of sir Lancelot Threlkeld. At Pooley Bridge, six miles from Penrith, are two small inns, at which boats upon the lake may be procured. On the west of the village is Dunmallet, a steep and conical hill clothed with wood, on which were formerly the vestiges of a Roman fortification, or, as some suppose, of an establishment of Benedictines. Winding walks lead to the summit.

From Pooley Bridge to Patterdale, a distance of ten miles, the road traverses the west margin of the lake, which is nine miles in length, and divided by the mountains into three chambers, or reaches, no two of which can be seen at once from any point near the margin. The extreme width is about three quarters of a mile. The lowest reach, commencing at the foot, is terminated on the left by Hallin Fell, which stretches forward to a promontory, from the opposite side called Skelley Neb, on which stands Halsteads. The middle, and longest reach, is closed in by Birk Fell on the left, and on the right by Stybarrow Crag. The small island, House Holm, is at the The termination of this section of the lake. highest reach is the smallest and the narrowest, but by far the most picturesque and grand. Here Viewed from an are the small islands of Moss Holm, Middle Holm, and Cherry Holm. eminence, the scenery surrounding the lake is indeed splendid: wood and water, bays, shores, and promontories, corn-fields, villas and cottages, all beautifully mingle among rude cliffs and lofty mountains. To the tourist travelling along the bank many most interesting objects worthy of notice present themselves, as Gowbarrow park, the property of Henry Howard, esq., to whom it was devised by the late duke of Norfolk, his uncle. The duke's predecessor erected in the park a hunting-box in the castellated style, called Lyulph's tower, commanding a fine view of the lake. "In Gowbarrow park," says Wordsworth, "the lover of nature might linger for hours. Here is a powerful brook, which dashes among rocks, through a deep glen hung on every side with a rich and happy intermixture of native wood: here are beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, and hollies decked with honey-suckles; and fallow deer glancing and bounding over the lawns and through the thickets." About five and a half miles from Pooley Bridge, a stream is crossed by a small bridge; a mile above which, in a rocky dell, is the waterfall of Airey Force. The thickly wooded banks of the stream become precipitous as the cascade is approached. There are two wooden bridges, one above, the other below, the

fall.

"List, ye who pass by Lyulph's tower
At eve; how softly then
Doth Aira Force, that torrent hoarse,
Speak from the woody glen!
Fit music for a so emn vale!
And holier seems the ground
To him who catches on the gale
The spirit of a mournful tale
Embodied in the sound."

WORDSWORTH'S "SOMNAMBULIST."

Glencoin Beck, issuing from Linking Dale Head, runs under the road a mile below Airey bridge, and forms the boundary line between the

The highest reach of the lake now counties. meets the view. The road next passes under Stybarrow Crag, where it has been much widened:

formerly it was a mere narrow path. Here the scenery is extremely grand: new hills and rocks rise to view. In many places there are dark clefts and shrubs. An ancestor of the Mounseys, of Goldrill cottage, a simple rustic, acquired the title of "king of Patterdale," from having successfully repulsed a body of Scotch moss-troopers at this place, with the aid of a few villagers; for these daring freebooters did not limit their depredations to the borders, but, fearless of" march wardens," often extended their depredations far and wide. His residence was at that time at Patterdale; but a few years ago the patrimonial estate was purchased by Mr. Marshall, a gentleman whose name soon becomes familiar to the lake visitor. The rocks around Ulles Water are remarkable for their echoes. The sound of a cannon fired upon the lake is reverberated six or seven times, and that of musical instruments produces a most delightful effect. "The variety of notes," says Mr. Gilpin, "is inconceivable: the ear is not equal to their innumerable combinations. It listens to a symphony dying away at a distance, while other melodious sounds arise close at hand: these have scarcely attracted the attention, when a different mode of harmony arises from another quarter. In short, every rock is vocal; and the whole lake is transformed into a kind of magical scene, in which every promontory seems peopled by aerial beings, answering each other in celestial music."

HAWES WATER.

66

While at Patterdale, the pedestrian will, if possible, visit Hawes Water, the property of the earl of Lonsdale, by Martindale and High-street, until he reaches the village of Mardale, near the Head Lake; and he will find the tour not too much for one day's accomplishment, enabling him to return to Patterdale. It might be well, however, to proceed to Shap, five miles distant from the lake, and return on the following day. He will thus be enabled to visit the Wells, a new established watering-place, which, from the medicinal character of its springs, promises to rise into importance. Shap, on the high road from Penrith to Kendal, is interesting to the antiquarian, from the ruins of its venerable abbey, about a mile to the west of the village, on the banks of the Lowther, where was once a thick forest. This abbey, anciently Heppe," was founded by Thomas, son of Gospatrick, for Præmonstratensian monks, or white canons, about A.D. 1150, and dedicated to St. Magdalen. The founder was buried at Shap, as were several of the Veteriponts and Cliffords, who were great benefactors to it. The original foundation was at Preston-Patrick, in the parish of Burton, near Kendal. On the dissolution, it was granted, with the manor and the monasteries of Gisburn, and Rival, in Yorkshire, to Thomas lord Wharton, from whose descendant, the profligate duke of Wharton, Robert Lowther, of Mauldsmeaburn, ancestor of the earl of Lonsdale, purchased them. The church tower still remains, and exhibits a specimen of good masonry: built of white freestone, it still preserves the marks of the chisel. From the vestiges of buildings yet visible, the abbey appears to have been extensive. Some portions of the chancel walls, which are washed by the Lowther, are still standing, and the ground to the south of the church is covered with relics of its

cloisters and offices, many of which have vaults beneath.

In the vicinity of Shap are two rude structures, to which no certain date can be assigned, and which are therefore usually referred to the times of the druids. Karl Lofts (i. e., "the liftings of the Ceorles, or husbandmen," is supposed to be Danish; though Dr. Burn, in his history of Westmoreland, regards it as druidical), the name of one, consists of two gently curved parallel lines of unhewn masses of granite, half a mile long by sixty or seventy feet broad, terminating at the south extremity in a small circle of similar blocks. Much injury has been sustained by this relic of antiquity, however, by the enclosure of the common. These stones are supposed to have been brought from Wasdale, three miles distant; but how such immense blocks, several being from three to four yards in diameter, could have been conveyed, it is difficult to conceive. There is a field quite close, called Skellaw, or the "place of skulls," which renders it most probable that the stones were so arranged as to commemorate some great victory. Many of the granitic blocks have been carried off for building purposes. At Gunnerskeld Bottom there is a circle of large stones, supposed to be a cairn.

Hawes Water, though smaller than many of the lakes, is distinguished, especially at the upper end, by romantic and bold scenery. About the middle of the lake a low promontory divides it into two almost equal parts. It may be reached by carriage from Kendal, by proceeding by the retired road of Long Sleddale, or from Pooley Bridge by Askham and Bampton; but the tourist from Patterdale, who shrinks not from a good couple of days' walking, will obtain splendid views of scenery, which must be hid from those who travel by the more frequented carriage

routes.

THE CONQUESTS OF DEATH.
No. I.

"The dead are everywhere!

The mountain-side; the plain; the woods profound; All the wide earth-the fertile and the fair, Is one vast burial-ground!

"The dead are everywhere!

Where'er is love, or tenderness, or faith; Where'er is power, pomp, pleasure, pride; where'er Life is or was, is death!"-MARY HOWITT.

THE ROYAL TOMB.

"The sunlight gilds the walls

Of kingly sepulchres enwrought with brass." THE tolling of the great bell of St. Paul's is the startling signal to myriads of thoughtless, worldlyminded, ungodly men, that death has entered into the high places of our land, probably into our palaces; for only in a very few instances is its deep knell heard, except where royalty has fallen a victim to the last great enemy. And what a lesson does that sound convey, what a solemn warning does it proclaim, to what a source of serious and momentous reflections does it give rise! And yet to laugh, as it were, at the calls, scarcely can its notes be said to have ceased to vibrate-if in the case of the sovereign-than the merry bells cheerfully and joy fully proclaim the accession of the successor. And then this is followed by external woe for the departed, doubtless, in many

|

Kings and the Chronicles? They are always described as in the city of David:' but whether mount Zion precisely is signified by this expression, or the whole range of Jerusalem and its environs, it is difficult to determine. These ancient tombs were undoubtedly hewn in the rock. We find a passage in Isaiah exactly describing them: that heweth him out a sepulchre on high, and that graveth an habitation for himself in a rock.' If such sepulchres were built on Zion itself, they remain to be discovered. Perhaps the most ancient of those opposite to Zion, on the side of the hill of Evil Counsel, may be among the resting places of Jewish royalty*.'

cases, internal and heartfelt, when the funeral note is heard, and the royal tomb is opened, and the sepulchre chapel receives into its embrace one additional trophy to the conquests of death. There is something indescribably solemn in the burial of a king, which they only can have experienced who have mingled with the crowd assembled, too often from mere motives of curiosity or official cir-Thou hast hewed thee out a sepulchre here, as he cumstances, who view the whole as a mere amusing pageant, in the procession of which "the grim tyrant glories, and stands forth only the more odious and ghastly, whilst he counts up a whole nation, approaching one by one to acknowledge his iron sway, and become the witnesses of his gloomy triumphs." Not that the writer would deride as folly, and condemn as useless and lavish expenditure, such testimonies to departed greatness; or rank himself among those who snarl at every thing monarchical, save the monarchy of the people quite the reverse. "Honour to whom honour is due" is an apostolical precept; and it is a maxim on which the loyal man, thankful for his privileges, will always desire to act. Funeral respect is unquestionably praiseworthy, except when it entrenches upon common prudence it betokens affectionate feelings when it does not arise from mere worldly fashion or a culpable desire of worldly display: it is, therefore, not to be condemned.

"In the southern aisle of the cathedral of Granada a sombre gothic façade attracts the eye amid that gloomy pile of whitewashed Corinthian architecture. The pomp and circumstance of heraldic emblazonry, mingled with emblems of devotion and humility, appropriately announce the portal to be the sepulchre chapel of 'los Reyes Catolicos,' the catholic sovereigns, as Ferdinand and Isabella are always entitled by the historians of Spain. The interior is in perfect character: an impressive silence reigns in this dimly-lighted chamber of the dead, and accords with that tender and religious feeling which the solemn gothic peculiarly inspires. On each side of the high altar kneel the effigies of the king and queen, armed at all points exactly cap-a-pie; while the absorbing principle of their policy, for which they lived and died-the expulsion of the Moor and the conversion of the infidel-are depicted behind them in coloured basso-relievos, of singular antiquarian interest. In the middle of the chapel are

It was to such reflections as these that the writer's mind was directed by the perusal of an account of St. George's chapel, Windsor, in a very late number of this magazine; and happy will it be if a visit to that most interesting edifice -interesting in itself, and much more so in its associations-shall have a beneficial effect on the multitudes who resort to view its splendid archi-placed their tombs and those of their immediate tecture, and to gaze at the sepulchre of kings.

Sepulture among their predecessors was an object of anxious desire among the Jewish monarchs; and not to be gathered in honour there, with funeral pomp, with "the bones of their fathers," the former kings that were before them, was a terrible denunciation against the wicked kings of Judah. "Thus saith the Lord concerning Jehoiakim the son of Josiah king of Judah: They shall not lament for him, saying, Ah my brother! or, Ah sister! they shall not lament for him, saying, Ah lord! or, Ah his glory! He shall be buried with the burial of an ass, drawn and cast forth beyond the gates of Jerusalem" (Jer. xxii. 18-19). In a still more awful strain is the threatening, that the bones of the wicked and idolatrous race shall not rest in their sepulchres: "At that time, saith the Lord, they shall bring out the bones of the kings of Judah, and the bones of his princes, and the bones of the priests, and the bones of the prophets, and the bones of the inhabitants of Jerusalem, out of their graves; and they shall spread them before the sun, and the moon, and all the host of heaven, whom they have loved, and whom they have served, and after whom they have walked, and whom they have sought, and whom they have worshipped: they shall not be gathered, nor be buried: they shall be for dung on the face of the earth" (Jer. viii. 1, 2).

But "where then are the tombs of the kings of Judah, so often alluded to in the books of the

Sermon on the Death of the Duke of York, by rev. D. Wilson bishop of Calcutta.

We shall very soon advert to this point more fully.-ED.

successors: these are composed of a delicate alabaster, wrought at Genoa, with the richest cinquecento sculpture. Ferdinand and Isabella, clad in simple costume, slumber, 'life's fitful fever o'er,' side by side, in the peaceful attitude of their long and happy union; contrasting the ruling passion strong in death' with the averted countenances of Joanna, their weak daughter, and Philip, her handsome and worthless husband. While below, in a plain vault, alike shrunk into rude iron-girt coffins, the earthy remains of prudence, valour, and piety moulder with those of vice, imbecility, and despair. These sad relics of departed majesty, silent witnesses of long by-gone days, connect the spectator with the busy period which, heightened by the present decay of Spain, appears in the dark backward and abyss of time' to be rather some abstract dream of romance than a chapter of history+."

Powerfully indeed does such a spectacle speak of the stern severity of the last great common enemy, whether his victim, like David, after he had served his generation by the will of God, fell on sleep, whose sepulchre St. Peter reminded the Jews was with them unto that day, or whether he was "an old and foolish king who would not be admonished, and than whom a poor and wise child is declared to be better" (Eccles. iv. 13).

Forcibly does it remind us that there is a house appointed for all living. It matters not whether it be the sumptuously decorated sepulchre or the nettled-overgrown grave on some lone mountain's

Bartlett's Jerusalem and its Environs.

+ See Quarterly Review No. cxxvii. 1.

side, still it is prepared. Here surely there is no distinction of classes; here meet the small and the great; here sink into rest unmovable the turmoils, the anxieties, the feuds, the warrings, the malice, the hatred, the envy of the professed subjects of the "Prince of peace;" here lie quietly slumbering the mouldering or the mouldered ashes of the men of other years, waiting the sound of that trump which shall shake the foundations of the universe, and call forth to appear at a righteous judgment-seat the whole race of fallen Adam.

"Here servants, masters, small and great,
Partake the same repose;
And here in peace the ashes mix
Of those who once were foes.

"All levell'd by the hand of death

Lie sleeping in the tomb,

Till God in judgment calls them forth
To meet the final doom."

And, if the tomb of royalty thus speak with solemn and thrilling accents to the multitudes who gaze upon it, and call upon them not to put their confidence in princes, for it is better to trust in the Lord, how much more solemnly and thrillingly must it whisper in the ear of royalty itself. "Be wise now therefore, O ye kings: be instructed, ye judges of the earth." Serve the Lord with fear, and rejoice with trembling." For "there is no king saved by the multitude of an host: a mighty man

is not delivered by much strength." And if, peradventure, any poor man, in homely garb and with contracted means of subsistence, but deep in faith, and clothed with humility, should gaze upon the monarch's tomb, let him reflect how wonderful are his ways and how unsearchable his dispensations who putteth one down and setteth up another. Let him remember, that even for himself, should his days be prolonged on earth, there may be an ensign of royalty; for the hoary head is a crown of glory if it be found in the way of righteousness," and that beyond this there is a crown, for the possession of which he may legitimately strive, and a throne on which he may one day-one long, endless day-sit down. And let him bear in mind that, if thus made a king with God, no eye shall ever gaze upon his sepulchre; for death shall not mar the splendour of his royalty; and none shall talk of him as the sovereign of by-gone years; for he shall reign for ever and ever. For God raiseth up the poor out of the dust, and lifteth up the beggar from the dunghill, to set them among princes and to make them inherit the throne of his glory."

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Reader, "receiving a kingdom which cannot be moved, let us have grace, whereby we may serve God acceptedly with reverence and godly fear."

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SKETCHES FROM NATURAL HISTORY. No. XVI.

THE WEASEL.

MUSTELIDE.

THE mustelidæ are the most bloodthirsty of all the carnivora; but are not so much adapted for devouring flesh as are those of the cat species, or felidæ. On account of the length of the body and the shortness of the limbs, which permit them to pass through very small openings, they are called vermiform-like worms; and hence they have received the name of vermin. All the members of this family are semi-plantigrade. When the ends of the toes only touch the ground, the heel being considerably raised into the air, the limbs can be used to greater advantage in running and springing: animals possessing this conformation are termed digitigrade. When the whole foot rests on the ground-a structure more favourable for a firm position, but preventing great activity of progression-they are called plantigrade.

The mustelidæ are thus arranged by Mr. Bell: Genus I.-Lutra. The common otter (lutra vulgaris). Deep brown, throat and breast cinerous, tail more than half the length of the head and body.

Genus II.-Mustela. 1. The weasel (muste la vulgaris): reddish brown above, white beneath; tail of the same colour as the body. 2. The ermine-weasel, stoat, stout (mustela erminea): body reddish; brown above, white beneath (in winter, wholly white); extremity of the tail always black; larger than the common weasel; bold, as the word stout" implies in the Belgic. 3. The fitchet-weasel, fitchew-polecat, foumart, fulemart (mustela putorius): fur long, brown on the surface, yellowish beneath; head blackish, with white spots about the ears and mouth; tail about one-third the length of the head and body; most destructive to game and poultry; exceedingly strong smelling. 4. The ferret weasel (mustela furo): yellowish white; eyes red; originally from North Africa; amazingly susceptible to cold,

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