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CHAPTER VI.

Remains of Ancient Art in various Parts of Egypt. General Magnificence of Remains-Alexandria-PillarCleopatra's Needle-Catacombs-Memphis-Beni Hassan-Hermopolis Magna-Antinopolis-Siout Sepulchral Grottos-Temple of Antæopolis-Abydos-Dendera or Tentyra-Magnificent Temple and Portico Elegant Sculptures-Zodiac and Planisphere-Opinions as to their Antiquity-Thebes-The Gateway or Propylon at Luxor-Magnificent Sculptures-Karnac— The Temple; Its Approaches and splendid Gateways; Its vast Extent-Temples at Dair and Medinet AbouThe Memnonium-Statue of Memnon-Tombs-Herment-Esneh-Eleithias-Striking Representations of Domestic Life-Edfou-Hadjur Silsili-Koum Ombos -Es Souan-Quarries of Syené-Island of Elephantiné-Concluding Remarks.

WE have purposely made a distinction between those immense works which display the gigantic plans and mechanical resources of the ancient Egyptians, and the specimens of the finer arts of architecture, statuary, and painting, which still delight the eye of the scientific traveller amid the ruins of Thebes, Dendera, and Ebsamboul. No view of Egypt would be complete without such an outline as we now propose to exhibit; for it is not possible in any other way to connect the history of that re

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markable country with its proud monuments of ancient taste and grandeur, or to render credible the sublime descriptions which have been transmitted to us by philosophers as well as by poets. The remains which still indicate the site of its oldest capital present the most unequivocal proof of its early civilization, and of the high degree of power which the inhabitants had attained by means of their knowledge. Its origin is lost in the obscurity of time, being coeval perhaps with the people who first took possession of the country; but, to give an idea of its great antiquity, it may be sufficient to remark that the building of Memphis, the date of which even stretches beyond the limits of authentic history, was the first attempt made to rival its magnificence and prosperity. Alluding to one portion of that splendid city, Champollion expresses himself in the following terms :- "All that I had seen, all that I had admired on the left bank, appeared miserable in comparison with the gigantic conceptions by which I was surrounded. I shall take care not to attempt to describe any thing; for, either my description would not express the thousandth part of what ought to be said, or, if I drew even a faint sketch, I should be taken for an enthusiast or perhaps for a madman. It will suffice to add, that no people, either ancient or modern, ever conceived the art of architecture on so sublime and so grand a scale as the ancient Egyptians. Their conceptions were those of men a hundred feet high; and the imagination, which in Europe rises far above our porticos, sinks abashed at the foot of the 140 columns of the hypostyle hall at Karnac."

The traveller from Europe usually lands at Alex

andria, a city which in any other part of the world except Egypt would be denominated ancient. The pillar which graces that capital of the Grecian kings was long associated with the name of Pompey the Great; but an inscription upon it has, in modern times, been distinctly made out, which proves that its last dedication was to the Emperor Diocletian by a prefect who happened to bear the same name as the rival of Julius Cæsar. We have just insinuated that it was no uncommon occurrence, during the successive dynasties which governed the Egyptians, to carve the titles of princes on palaces, temples, and obelisks, which had existed a thousand years before their accession to power; whence it must appear that nothing can be more fallacious, as a test of antiquity, than the names which are found in inscriptions, even in those of the hieroglyphic class. Mr Salt, we have already mentioned, traced the appellation of one of the Ptolemies engraved over that of Psammeticus,-the sovereign, it is probable, in whose reign the original building was erected.

The Alexandrian Pillar stands upon a pedestal twelve feet high, which has obviously been formed of stones previously used for some other purpose. The shaft is round, about ninety feet in length, and surmounted by a Corinthian capital which adds ten feet more to the elevation. The column, we believe, is one block of porphyry, although it has more usually been described as consisting of syenite or Egyptian granite. It is nine feet in diameter, with a perceptible entesis, but without hieroglyphics; remarkably well cut, and very little injured by the effects of time. No one, however, can fail to perceive that the shaft does not correspond with the

capital, base, and pedestal, which are extremely poor both in execution and taste.

It is to be deeply regretted that the architectural beauties of this celebrated monument are not a little defaced by the undue freedoms which have been used by certain European visitors. One of the latest writers on the subject informs us, that, what with black paint and red ochre, pitch and sand, the pedestal and the lower part of the shaft may now rival the party-coloured mantle of Jacob's favourite son. It was in vain to look for any of Diocletian's inscriptions, since the scribbling of those who had ascended to the top had obliterated all other traces. It appears that, in March 1827, the officers of the Glasgow ship of war, by means of flying a kite, had passed a string over the top of the column, -to this they fastened a cord, and, eventually, a rope-ladder. Their example has been followed by the crew of almost every king's ship since stationed in that port. Breakfasts have been given, and letters written on the top, and even a lady has had the courage to ascend. But, the national flag having on one occasion been left by a party, the governor took so much offence as to prohibit all such frolics for the time to come.*

There is a want of unanimity among travellers as to the precise import of the inscription on this famous pillar. M. Quatremère has ascertained that there was in the time of Diocletian a prefect whose name was Pompeius, and thereby afforded a strong corroboration to the opinion of those who

* Travels in the Crimea.-A similar feat was accomplished in 1777 by an English captain. See Irwin's Voyage.

BRITISH

10 No 1980 1990

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