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The presence of the Court had its disadvantages for travellers. The posts incoming and going are double. Other things are more, in this proportion. So we found at our Inn.' But Cuninghame's Scottish caution did not desert him, and he promptly compounded for half his bill for lodging, though he paid the extras' not to 'derogate too much from the profuse honour of our nation and the title of "Milor." With a sigh, no doubt, he added the words, 'No people have more the art of talking strangers out of their money.'

For the journey to Burgundy the author's prudent 'companion' (his name is never divulged) had bought a post-chaise (of one seat) and they drove and rode, as before no doubt, on their Bidets good little Tits . . . (which) keep always at a canter. None of our Company had a fall all the while we travelled together.' The first halt was at the old and ruinous town of Sens. At the Inn a Highlander spoke to them. He had since the Rebellion 'been in France with his Master, who lived there with many others concerned in that unhappy affair, who had chosen this place for the cheapness of living, and the Civilitys they received from the Archbishop.'

Auxerre was the next stop, and the author's companion, 'who was a better judge of wines than I,' recommended the vintages. The police of the roads was well regulated and the travellers went in comfort. The next day's journey was through Viteaux to Dijon, the capital of Burgundy and Parliament seat of that Province'; but there was no Session and the town was consequently dull. Two posts further on was Nuys [Nuits], where the travellers rested some days in the house of M. Marées, a Wine Merchant of great repute'; and there they learned something about the high prices of wine which astonished them, the highest being 1200 Livres a pipe, that is about £30 a hogshead.' They visited Volne and Pomar as well as Bonne (Beaune), 'wall'd and famous for its wines,' and were impressed with the commerce of Chalons. It was surprising,' however, that there are not better Inns in so considerable a place.' They were in bad luck with their Inn, and, we hope, exceptionally so, for our further comfort the kitchen chimney took fire while our supper was dressing, and with great difficulty we got the mob kept out of the house by shutting the gates, while our Cook extinguished it' by the old salt cure.

At Chalons the travellers joined those who had come in the diligence from Paris and embarked for Lyons on the 'Coche

d'Eau,' one of the transport barges. The Parisian company who took the best places were noisy and troublesome, and our author declined accepting their kind invitation of preference to their room, and kept at a distance with my book.' They spent the night at Macon, and next day our hero paid for his admiration of beauty. Our landlady pas't us in review from her bar, and every one payd as he went out. She was very handsome and show'd a very fine neck to advantage with a loose robe which diverting my attention from counting my money, she made me pay for the sight, by taking one third more than from any of the Company.'

The travellers sailed down the Saone, through a very delightful country' to Lyons, where they were invaded by Frenchmen, until I believe our Company could have muster'd as many as the King of France sent with the Young Pretender for the recovery of the Crown he claimed. We had indeed two (or) three of his officers with us, dres't in feathers and stockings of various colours, who, to the disturbance and scandal of the whole Company, used the people who offered their service to carry their baggage with the grossest language and abuse, insulting the people in the streets. The travellers were glad to withdraw from their company and see the town.

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'Every creature is busy and employed here,' wrote the diarist about Lyons. He thought the streets well adorned, the houses magnificent, and the people opulent. The Country about (is) bespangled with pretty little retreats, so that all the hills and country about Lyons seems one continued town.' The travellers saw the sights, the Jesuits Library, the Academy for Exercises,' and the manufactories, where the gold thread and gold lace and the Lyons silks were made. Of gold drawing' we are given a full description too long to quote here, but he entered also that 'The grounds about Lyons are as embroidered with houses as their silks are with gold and silver. The views from the hills round the town above the banks of the two rivers are delightfully pleasant.'

On account of the fear of robbers by road, Cuninghame and his friend proceeded by boat-the common passage-boatdown the Rhone to Avignon. Among their co-voyageurs were M. de Fien, interpreter to the King for Oriental languages, the Chevalier Labord, a sailor, and M. de Chateauneuf, a soldier, who related their travels and adventures by sea and land, and beguiled the voyage. The rest of the company were officers,

merchants, and priests, who chiefly narrated contes grivois and their own amourettes for the benefit of the rest until they arrived at Vienne having enjoyed a prodigious variety of romantic views all along the Rhone.'

It took three days to reach the papal city of Avignon, and the travellers arrived there in time for the feast of S. Louis,which was celebrated by many Chevaliers of his Order,—and to attend an opera which lasted till near midnight, and sent us home fully disposed to rest.' The writer was informed that "The Young Pretender kept family here, consisting of the proper officers for a Prince as if he actually resided here, tho' as they told me he had not been seen at Avignon for two years. The Pope's Vice Legate received him after his banishment from France1 with much show and magnificence. He had come to town privately, but afterwards entered publickly, and had great entertainments and balls. Those strangers I talk't to of him seemed not to have the least idea where he was,' and this uncertainty lasted for a good many years, until his father's death in 1766, put an end to the Prince's incognito.

From Avignon the travellers went on their way to Aix-enProvence, a tedious journey for which they went fortified with a breakfast of 'excellent sauciges, Ortolans and Cyprus wine.' Aix was much resorted to by people of all ranks in Provence for business and pleasure; by strangers, more particularly (by) the English.' It was an early health resort too, and they found it one of the best built towns in France. Here the chief man had seen something of Britain in the '45. The Marquis D'Aiguilles, who was vested with the sham character of Embassador to the Young Pretender during the Rebellion in Scotland, is now President to the Parliament here. He was taken prisoner at Culloden in the character of a Captain of Foot, afterwards went to Carlisle and Penrith as Commisary for the French prisoners then with us, and marryed a Parson's daughter of that Country, whom he carried over to this place.'

Marseilles was the last French the last French town of Cuninghame's Odyssey, for it was from that port that he had to sail to Minorca. He wrote, Marseilles may be justly esteemed the richest, fairest and most trading town in France. The mart of the Mediterranean and the Center of the West India Commerce. The new town . . . is large, with straight fine streets all built of free stone. The old town has very high 1 Dec. 27, 1748.

buildings (and) narrow streets and only inhabited by the lower class of people. So straight are these streets that coaches cannot go. I suppose it is of late that any equipages have been kept here for in the spacious new buildings the ladys all go in chairs.'

Here, having to wait for his boat, the writer whom we have followed for so long, found himself among a coterie of compatriots enjoying the rational pleasure of a domestick travelling life, improving themselves and doing all the good in their power' and with this society he spent from October the 24th to the 15th of December (old style), on which day he set sail for the island of Minorca.

A. FRANCIS STEUART.

Ecclesiastical Persecution in the Seventeenth

THE

Century

HE following extracts are from a Narrative written by the Rev. Robert Landess of Robroyston, which has been preserved among the family papers of Major John Henry Lamont of Lamont, the XXI. chief of the Clan Lamont. The first thirty-eight pages are unfortunately awanting, but the extant portion, extending from 1660 to 1703, consists principally of an account of the author's settlement and experiences as a Presbyterian minister at Ballymoney, in Ireland, his differences with the Irish presbyteries over his subsequent return to Glasgow, and of his ministerial work in Glasgow and the Parish of Blantyre, in Lanarkshire. The portion of the Narrative here printed is interesting as a contemporary record of ecclesiastical persecution and of domestic life in Scotland in the latter half of the seventeenth century and covers the ten years between 1662 and 1672.

He

Owing to the loss of the earlier portion of the Narrative information as to the author's family is probably now irrecoverable, but from internal evidence it appears that Mr. Landess was born in January, 1630, and was a man of some means. obtained his degree in Arts at the University of Glasgow where he held a bursary in 1658, and was licensed as a preacher, as appears from the Narrative, by the Presbytery of Hamilton. After leaving Scotland in 1672 he had charge in County Antrim of a congregation at Ballymoney in the Presbytery of Rout (Kilrut) where he ministered for fourteen years, but owing to the state of his health and the impossibility of living upon the scanty offerings of a scattered and poor congregation, he returned to Scotland in 1686. In 1687 he appears as a member of the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and was called ad interim to officiate in one of the meeting houses in Glasgow, and had charge of the East Quarter till April, 1690, when, owing to the better supply of ministers after the re-establishment of Presbyterianism, he was at his own request relieved of his charge in the city. In July,

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