CHAP. XXVIII. LINES TO THE CALEDONIAN HARP-LOCH TAY-HOUSE OF TAY MOUTH MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS DUKE OF ATHOL'S DUNKELD - ATHOL BROZE-ANECDOTE-A WEE BIT OVER THE BRAE-DOUNE THE LORD'S ANOINTED-GLASGOW - ARGYLE-STREET TONTINE COFFEE-HOUSE TOLBOOTH · INFIRMARY CATHEDRAL-COLLEGE-ANDERSONIAN INSTITUTION NELSON'S MONUMENT-STEAM-THEATRE-CIRCUIT COURT- REMARKS ON COTTON-MILLS - CLYDE AND WATERFALLS RUGBY SCHOOL. As I rode along, thinking of M'Nab and his piper, the following lines occurred to my mind, which I afterwards retouched at Killin :— LINES ON THE CALEDONIAN HARP. In days that long have glided by, Whence he might breathe his wild notes sweet. The pen 1 LOCH TAY. Oh! then, when many a twinkling star And mute was ev'ry mountain bird, Alas! as Time has turn'd to dust Th' embattled tower, the beauteous bust, 517 and the pencil would fail in giving any adequate idea of Loch Tay-a superb expanse of water, fifteen miles long, and from one to two broad. Neat farms and country residences everywhere enliven the eye. The road winds through plantations of young beech and oak, beneath the arches of whose branches the lake is seen in a thousand points of varying beauty; a prodigal luxuriance diffuses itself over the fields which line its verdant margin, and 518 HOUSE OF TAYMOUTHI. high up the sides of the majestic mountains, which, whitened by many a waterfall, are reflected in its mirror; whilst a small island, thickly covered with trees, and supporting the ruins of a priory, the picturesque church-tower, bridge, and village of Kenmore, embellish its beautiful termination. In this island the remains of the Queen of Alexander the First of Scotland are said to be interred. The inn at Kenmore wanted only a bellows to render it very convenient; the servant told me there were none in the house, as she puffed my fire with her own healthy lungs. The lake abounds with salmon, pike, perch, eels, char, and trout. Lord Breadalbane has vast property in this part of Scotland, and an immense extent of pleasureground. About two miles from Kenmore, towards Killin, I visited the hermitage belonging to his Lordship, through the rustic window of which is seen a beautiful waterfall, two hundred and seventy feet in extent of visible descent. His Lordship is building a new house upon the site of the ancient house of Taymouth: that which is erecting appeared to be designed almost precisely from Inverary-castle, and also to be built with the lapis ollaris: the wings of the ancient mansion were standing. Hills thickly covered with stately trees rise before and behind it. As I advanced in my way to Dunkeld, upon leaving Taymouth-castle, I passed by a small druidical temple, and near Aberfeldie saw the Fall of Moness, which I think one of the finest DUKE OF ATHOL'S. 519 I ever beheld. The road to Dunkeld, occasionally extended along the banks of the Tay, was a continuation of beautiful and picturesque objects. The evening was far advanced when I reached the ferry below Dunkeld. The scenery was very beautiful and picturesque, and the Tay runs with a deep and rapid current, after winding from a south-western to a north-eastern direction by a noble meander above. Arrived on the other side, I passed under a brick archway, which connects one part of the Duke of Athol's grounds with another; and after a ride through a noble avenue of elms and other stately trees, and another arch, and by the remains of the cathedral, occupying a large space towards the north-east end of the street, I reached the inn, which was so crowded, that it was solely owing to the courtesy of two gentlemen who were visiting the Highlands that I could obtain admission to a room. I did not then know that there was an excellent inn, affording every comfort and accommodation, on the other side, within two or three hundred yards of the ferry, but out of the road which I came. In the morning I visited the cathedral, which is a noble Gothic pile, and throws over the town the interesting appearance of antiquity. The choir still remains, and is used for worship. The chancel is now the burial-ground.; and the whole building, standing between the grounds of the . Dunkeld was long a Bishop's see; and amongst those who The ruins of this cathedral form a picturesque object to |