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Ulva abounded, having, even at that late period, some wood, chiefly oak, upon it; and that, such was the force of habit and prejudices, though, for upwards of sixty years, there have been neither wolves, foxes, nor venomous animals of any kind or description, seen in the island of Ulva, yet it is not more than thirty years since the custom of covering the graves with stones was discontinued.

The islands abound with foxes, rabbits, hares, and every variety of game, such as muir-fowl, or growse, heathfowl, commonly called black cock, heath-hen, woodcock, snipe, and a very fine bird called the cock of the wood, or the kapperkelly. This bird has, from some unknown cause, been more scarce of late years than it was in former times. There is also the ptarmigan; and, of the ordinary birds, innumerable quantities of pigeons, plover of both kinds, the grey and the green plover, the curlew, mayfowl, pyet, redshanks, together with a great variety of other species of land-birds. Of the sea-fowl there are five different kinds of wild geese, and eight or ten kinds of ducks, amongst which the shell-drake is celebrated for the rich beauty of its plumage. There are also, of the sea-gull, or sea-maw, five or six different species; solan geese, cormorants, scarts, marrots, and a great variety of smaller birds. Wild swans also visit the Hebrides every winter, from the northern regions.

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Coal has been found in Sky, in Mull, and in some other of the islands, though as yet no fair trial has been made of the extent or value of the seams of such coal. Staffa has all his coal from the main land to Ulva-house by the vessels which sail with his kelp, and as there are annually made upon his property about two hundred tons of that article, he is seldom at a loss in getting coal, or any other fuel, for the consumption of the family of Ulva-house, brought home at an easy rate.

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INDISPOSITION, arising from frequent exposure to rain, prevented me from joining the pleasant party I have before mentioned to the green isle of Inchkenneth, which lay very near Ulva, and looked like an emerald

"set in the silver sea."

In this island, the reader will remember, Dr. Johnson experienced much hospitality from Sir Allan Maclean and his daughters, which had the effect of putting him in perfect good humour, and he has accordingly written an elegant and captivating eulogy on the family and the place. He describes Sir Allan's establishment to have been

cottage for himself, and two more for the domestics. "We entered," says he, " and wanted little that palaces afford. Our room was neatly floored and well lighted, and our dinner, which was dressed in one of the other huts, was plentiful and delicate."-Upon the return of the party, one

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of the gentlemen informed me that this island, which is also the property of Staffa, is about a mile long, and half a mile broad; that it is extremely fertile, and in a high state of cultivation; that it is inhabited by a few cattle and a shepherd; and that the tiny dwelling of the Baronet, in its best days, consisted only of three rooms, not one of which seemed capacious enough to have admitted Johnson to turn himself, without putting his head out of window.

We quitted the amiable family of Ulva-house with strong impressions of their kindness. Though their residence is so remote and difficult of access, during the summer months they are never without visitors, attracted by the islands, many of whom are distinguished for either rank, talent, or character. We landed again in Mull, at the head of Loch Nakeall. Only one horse, and that the leanest of his race, could be procured for our whole party. The horses in Mull are so accustomed to their native country, that they are never more in danger of falling than when on good level ground. After a miserable walk over a constant succession of streamlets, pools of water, and soft ground, that is, ground full of miry holes, we once more reached Aros, where we were hospitably entertained by Mr. Maxwell. The next day we set off in an open boat for Airds, near Appin, the seat of Sir John Campbell, a little voyage of upwards of thirty miles. We had a fine wind blowing fresh and fair nearly all the way; and, what

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was of great consequence to us, the clouds retained their waters, and we had a very agreeable sail through the Sound of Mull, along the shores of Mull and Morven: Round the southern point of the latter we turned our course up Loch Linnhe, passing by the long, verdant, and beautiful island of Lismore, the name of which signifies a large garden; and after weathering the southern point of the Bay of Airds with some difficulty, we reached the mansion, which is most delightfully situated amidst woods, rocks, mountains, dales, and waters, and once more trod the main land, after having been deluged with rain and hospitality in the islands. Of the weather which I experienced in these isles I have not been able to give a favourable account; but it ought to be considered that I visited them late in the season for such a visit, and that many a greybeard afterwards told me he had not for many years witnessed a summer and an autumn so chilly and rainy.

A party of us, who were going to Inverary-castle, quitted Sir Jolin and Lady Campbell, and their beautiful residence, with regret, and set out for Dalmally, between which and Airds, about fifteen miles from the latter place, at Taynuilt we dined, after a most enchanting ride. The latter place is surrounded with graceful and sublime scenery, which would require a master's pencil to pourtray. There is a plain little rustic monument here, erected to the memory

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