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the conquerors for the purpose of facilitating communication between their different camps. To these must be added a number of interesting tumuli, of which those near the village of Bonvilstone were specially worthy of note, and numerous Roman villas, scattered all over South Wales, without military outworks, supplying no unsatisfactory evidence of the submission of the natives to the mild and gentle rule of their new masters. The period which followed the departure of the Romans had left few objects of interest to the archæologist, since the work of the northern invaders was that of rapine and destruction, of a widely different character from that which followed, and which commenced with the invasion of Glamorgan by the Normans, under Fitzhamon, towards the close of the eleventh and down to the latter half of the fourteenth century. The rule of these new invaders, unlike that of the Romans, was severe, and provoked, on the part of the natives, a most obstinate and prolonged resistance. The results of this were still to be seen in the remains of the Norman and English castles with which South Wales abounded. The erection of these castles was not confined to the great Norman lords, for every country squire, if such a term were appropriate to those days, found it necessary to make his house a fortress. Concerning the two classes of castles, he (the speaker) would quote the words of a learned and accomplished author (Mr. Clark), whom he would have liked to have seen filling the presidential chair, who wrote "that the position of the English in Wales during the two centuries following the Conquest, in fact, until the reduction of the Principality by Edward I, was such as to make a castle a necessity. . . . . Every landowner's house was literally his castle. In parts of Glamorganshire they stood so close that it is difficult to understand whence their owners derived

their revenues. For example, within a radius of six miles from Barry, half the circle being occupied by the sea, were twelve castles, and in the county, and mainly in its southern part, were from thirty to forty, of which but one, Aberavon, belonged to a Welsh lord. Most of the castles were the residences of private persons, and were built for the defence of the estate and its tenants; others, the property of the chief lord, were constructed for the defence of the county, and were so placed as to command the passes by which the Welsh were accustomed to descend upon the plain. The sites of most of the Glamorgan castles are known, and of many of them the ruins remain." Last, but not least worthy of notice, were the parish churches, many of which were interesting, not only on account of their peculiar construction, the various styles of architecture exhibited, and the tombs, crosses, and other remains they contained or by which they were surrounded, but also from the fact that they had been erected in spots sacred from their association with most important events of a far earlier date than the existing structures, and not improbably hallowed as the spots on which the Gospel message was first proclaimed in the land by the earliest Christian missionaries. Amongst other spots for which that honour was

claimed were the churches of Llantwit Major, Llancarvan, and Llanilid, the two first named being memorable likewise for famous schools of theology, which were founded as early as the latter half of the fifth century. The church of St. Illtyd, or, as it was commonly called, of Llantwit Major, was of very peculiar construction, and various opinions had been expressed as to the purposes for which its three different portions were originally designed. He believed Professor Freeman, one of the greatest authorities upon these subjects, had expressed the opinion that the westernmost portion of the sacred fabric was the lady-chapel, and the easternmost a monastic church. But in a letter which appeared in the Western Mail a short time ago, the writer indignantly protested against this theory, and he (the speaker) would not have been ill pleased if the two antagonists had met before the Association and fought out their opinions. In conclusion, allusion was made to the discoveries at Cardiff Castle--one of monastic buildings, and a part of the outer wall which had surrounded the castle-which would both be found to be of great interest. The right rev. President then resumed his seat, amidst loud applause.

Archdeacon Thomas, in proposing a cordial vote of thanks to the President for his address, adverted to the reasons that had induced the Association to visit Cowbridge. Having already held meetings at most of the chief places in North and South Wales, it was deemed advisable in future to choose some of the smaller towns as the centres of operations, few of which offered so many attractions as Cowbridge, the surrounding district being more than usually interesting, on account of its connection with the first introduction of Christianity into Wales. The association of this part of Glamorganshire with early British Christianity was forcibly brought home to the minds of those present when they remembered that their President was the successor, and no unworthy one either, of Dubricius, the founder of the see of Llandaff.

Mr. R. W. Banks, the Treasurer of the Association, having seconded the vote of thanks, the President briefly replied, and then called upon Mr. Edward Laws, Secretary for South Wales, to read a paper by the Rev. J. P. Conway, the Superior of the Dominican Priory at Woodchester, upon the recent excavations made, by the orders of Lord Bute, on the site of the Black Friars Monastery, at Cardiff. This paper will be printed in the Journal.

The proceedings were brought to a close by the announcement of the programme of the next day's excursion.

EXCURSION, TUESDAY, AUGUST 14TH.

The members of the Association made the Bear Hotel their headquarters, where excellent accommodation was provided by our host, Mr. Thomas. All the excursions during the week were made by road, as facilities for travelling by rail are entirely wanting in

this district at present. It will not be out of place here to mention that the success of the meeting at Cowbridge was very largely due to the efficient manner in which Mr. Iltyd B. Nicholl discharged the somewhat arduous duties falling to the lot of the Local Secretaries on these occasions. The members have, therefore, to thank him for the punctuality with which the programme was carried out; and the horses should be grateful that the forethought displayed in adjusting the length of the journeys prevented their being overworked, as is unfortunately sometimes the case when the management is bad. The weather throughout the whole week was exceptionally fine, so that umbrellas were only used, as the derivation of the word indicates that they should be, as a protection from the excessive heat of the sun's rays.

1

The excursion started from the Bear Hotel at 9.30 A.M., members taking their seats in the horse-brakes with commendable punctuality. The first halting-place was the small village of St. Hilary, situated two miles south-west of Cowbridge, on high ground commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country. On a fine day the Bristol Channel, with the opposite coast of Somersetshire beyond, are plainly visible to the southward, and on the north the horizon is bounded by the bleak highlands of Glamorganshire. Cowbridge lies in a hollow below. Donovan, in his South Wales, speaks enthusiastically of the prospect, which he says is "very far superior to any we had before surveyed in this part of the country". The summit of Stalling Down hill, above St. Hilary, is crowned by a clump of trees that serves as a landmark for miles round. The old road from Cowbridge up to the top of Stalling Down is very steep, in consequence of which a new road has been formed, making a detour round the north side of the hill so as to obtain a better gradient. The old road is in a straight line with that on the other side of Cowbridge going to Bridgend, which is possibly Roman.

St. Hilary Church.-On arriving at the church the party were met by the Rev. Lewis Morgan, the Vicar, who delivered the following address :

"The remarks which I propose to make are intended to facilitate rather than impede your progress, as you have so many subjects of interest in prospect to-day. This church was dedicated to Sanctus Hilarius, Bishop of Poitiers, whose name was also once associated in North Wales with Holyhead (or Caergybi), the fort of Cybi, who was surnamed Corineus, a son of Solomon, Duke of Cornwall, and pupil of Hilarius, about the year 380. In honour of his preceptor he called one of the headlands of this insulated spot St. Hilary, now St. Elian's Point. There is also a church dedicated, probably through this same family, to this saint in Corn

wall.

"The ruthless hand of time had been arrested at different

1 Vol. i, p. 307.

2 A corruption of stallion.

periods, doubtless by well-intentioned, but most destructive repairs; consequently, this church was becoming sadly divested of its traditional associations, every vestige of which, however simple or homely it may be, has the strongest claims upon our reverence and care. These feelings, on being inducted to the living in the year 1855, urged me to appeal for funds to restore what was remaining to something like their primitive character. I soon received a most generous response from the Rev. J. M. Traherne of Coedriglan, whose interest in such matters was well known, and who then devoted his latest thoughts to the restoration of this venerable church, when his lamented death deferred the undertaking of his pious wishes; but subsequently his noble-hearted widow, to whom this parish owes a deep debt of gratitude, carried out the good intention of her lamented husband, and defrayed the whole cost. The restoration, which was completed in the year 1862, was carried out from the plans and under the superintendence of Sir Gilbert Scott, who, in this instance, as in all the restorations in which he was engaged, evinced a reverential regard for the preservation of all the ancient features of the building. This church, like most of the ancient sacred structures in our old country, was built at various periods of history, many proofs of which may now be seen. The chancelarch and the font are of the Norman period, and for that reason have been carefully preserved, although it would not be difficult to replace them with handsomer ones of modern design. The rest of the chancel seems to be of the Early English period. The tower, nave, and aisle are of the Perpendicular style. The old monumental effigy, which was formerly within the chancel rails, is to the memory of an ancestor of the Basset family.

"All the old walls were retained, but securely underpinned and drained. The arcade between the aisle and the nave, which was formerly very much out of the perpendicular, was forced up into its place by means of the thumb-screw, and thus the necessity of its being taken down prevented. The east window of the aisle was removed, and carefully replaced. A new window has been placed in the west end of the aisle. This window replaces an old one which had been blocked up; when the plastering was removed, evident traces and some remains of the window were found, of the size and form of the window which now occupies the place, and probably of a similar design. The roof is of a very handsome substantial design, supported by a king-post in the centre; the timber employed in this and in all the woodwork is pitch pine, and varnished without any paint or stain. The whole of the walls have been pointed outside, including the tower, and all the dressed stonework inside has had the whitewash removed from it by the application of muriatic acid, and pointed. The internal fittings are exceedingly elaborate and beautiful, and the carving was done by workmen who came from London for the purpose, and who had been employed for years in Westminster Abbey. During the restoration the remains of an old rood-loft were brought into sight, consisting of a doorway

and some steps of the stairs. These remains were reverentially preserved, although they form a rather unsightly object near the pulpit.

"The entrance porch is entirely new, and designed by Sir Gilbert Scott; upon the whole, I feel we can quote a part of Mr. Pitt's appropriate lines on restorations:

"But, O! work tenderly :

Beware lest one worn feature ye efface,
Seek not to add one touch of modern grace;
Handle with reverence each crumbling stone,
Respect the very lichens o'er it grown,
And bid each monument to stand
Supported e'en as with a filial hand.'”

The ground-plan of the church consists of a nave, with south aisle and porch, chancel and western tower. The original building, of the Norman period probably, had a nave and chancel only; the tower and south aisle appear to have been added when the Decorated style was prevalent; and the porch was erected by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1862. The chancel-arch is Transitional Norman, pointed, with square-stepped arch-mouldings and jambs, and simple abacus. It is 7 ft. 3 in. wide. The arcading between the nave and the south aisle has four arches. There is a flat-headed priest's door and window on the south side of the chancel. In the south wall of the aisle a flat-headed three-light window filled in with Decorated tracery is worthy of notice. It is of the same type as a window in the Old Western Church at Llantwit Major; but the peculiar feature at St. Hilary is a horizontal band of quatrefoil ornaments running along the top. Over the south door is a Decorated bracket with the Basset arms. The tower is of two stories, of the usual local character, with lights in the upper part covered by a square label. The font, which is placed opposite the south door, near the north wall of the nave, is of Sutton stone, of plain round shape, having bulging sides, with a bold roll-moulding round the top. It is 2 ft. 3 in. outside diameter, and 3 ft. 3 in. high, supported on a square step. Most of the fonts in this district are of Norman date, and made of a hard magnesian limestone dug from a quarry at Sutton, close to the mouth of the Ogmore river, on the coast of Glamorganshire, below Bridgend. It was thought of using Sutton stone in the construction of the Houses of Parliament at Westminster, but the supply was too limited. The stone is an excellent one, but hard, and sometimes liable to split. It was largely employed by the medieval builders in Glamorganshire, at Caerphilly Castle, and many other places. There is a rude square stoup in the south wall of the nave near the south door, and a bracket in the north wall of the chancel. The steps up to the rood-loft, lighted by a square-headed window, are to be seen in the north wall of the nave at St. Hilary. The method of roofing over the rood-loft and other narrow staircases, other examples of

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