of the neck, here so common; and which in Switzerland as well as in Austria are called kropf, and in France, goitres.

Lakes.] The lake of Gmundin, with the fine river Traun running through it, and the two charming towns of Gmundin and Ebsdorff, a each extremity, 12 miles distant from one another, is much frequented by Austrian travellers, both by reason of the scenery of its banks, and also on account of the salt-manufactures, which are established there. From this lake and its vicinity, Austria is supplied with salt, to the value of £400,000 sterling annually. The Attersee, the Abersee, the Albensee, the Hallstattersee, the Mansee, the Irrsee, the Neuasee, the Altausee, and the Gosachsee, afford fine and varied landscapes, and greatly facilitate the carriage of wood to the salt-pans, and of all sorts of commodities to the numerous population which dwells along their shores. Climate.] The climate varies greatly, from the mountainous borders of Styria and Bohemia, to the lower frontiers of Hungary, and the banks of the Danube. In the former, the cold in winter is intense, and storms frequent and destructive. The summer is short and precarious, and the hopes of the husbandman are often blasted by frosts and tempests in the autumnal months.32 The winter sets in about the end of October; and the ground is, for the most part, covered with snow till the middle of March. Little or nothing can be done in agricultural labour until the end of that month. The climate, though generally cold, and occasionally subjected to very rapid transitions, is upon the whole not unhealthy, or unfavourable to human longevity. The most common diseases in the mountainous parts, are pulmonary complaints, typhus and intermitting fevers, colds, rheumatisms, and epidemical distempers brought from Italy and Turkey. Southerly and south-westerly winds are the strongest. These blow from the Styrian, Carinthian, and Tyrolese Alps, over a snowy region of several hundred miles in extent. Northerly winds are the pleasantest; but the east winds are the most piercing and constant. During the months of July, August, and September, the heat is excessive along the banks of the Danube and in the lower country: Fahrenheit's thermometer standing frequently in the shade at 95° and 98°. Tempestuous winds seldom annoy the lower districts; and the climate is as favourable for animals, for grass, corn, wood, and even some species of wines, as any part of Europe in the same latitude. Lintz, the most western city of Austria on the Danube, is said to be 1000 feet above the level of the Black Sea; and Hainburg, near Presburg, the most easterly is about 780 feet above the same level.

Vegetable and Animal Productions.] Few countries are more productive than Austria, in proportion to her extent, whether in the animal the vegetable, or mineral department. Her breeds of horses, mules, asses, cattle, sheep, goats, and of all the common European domesticated animals, as well as of game and wild fowls, are among the best in Germany. Much attention has been paid to the improvement of the breed of horses, since the reign of Joseph II. by introducing English, Mecklenburg, and the best Turkish stallions, and by encouraging English grooms to settle in the country. Nothing very particular can be said, however, in favour of the management of live stock in this district; and abundant

"The average quantity of rain that falls at the towns of Gmundin and Hallstadt, in Upper Austria, which are environed by mountains, and lie on the lakes to which they give their names, is from 38 to 46 inches; while the quantity that falls at Vienna, rarely exceeds 28.

as the produce is, the inhabitants must long continue to import considerable quantities from Hungary, Bohemia, and Moravia, in order to meet the constantly increasing demands of Vienna.

Agriculture.] German Austria, when compared with other provinces of Northern Europe, may be fairly denominated a well-managed and rich agricultural country. In this respect it surpasses Hungary and Bavaria. A sort of rotation of white and green crops is observed, and the raising and harvesting of hay are perfectly well understood. The crops commonly cultivated are wheat, barley, oats, rye, pease, beans, potatoes, saffron, mustard, hemp, flax, and a few grasses, as vetches, tares, and clovers. In comparison with Northern Germany-some parts of Mecklenburg and Holstein excepted— the crops are heavy and productive; but if compared with the best-managed counties in England and Scotland, they are by no means considerable, in proportion to the fertility of the soil. Six bolls, Linlithgow measure, or three quarters of wheat, per acre, are esteemed a good crop; and four bolls of barley or oats, rather exceed the common average. The Austrian peasant is not a tenant in our sense of the word, but a feuar, who has his land very cheap, and does not calculate upon what a certain quantity of seed-corn will yield him. Hence he sows but very sparingly, perhaps six or seven pecks, or two and a half bushels, per acre; and is perfectly contented if he has six or seven fold from his seed. He ploughs to the depth of two or three inches, and manages his ground precisely as his forefathers did in the days of Charles V., or of Rudolph of Habsburgh. The Austrian provinces cultivate but little wheat and oats, mostly rye and barley. On the other hand, they export yearly about 3,790 quintals of hops, not to mention dried fruits, &c. The cultivation of saffron is a great branch of Austrian husbandry. Wine is another chief article of Austrian produce in the country east of the Ens. One-sixth, perhaps, of the arable land of the whole of Lower Austria, is occupied by vineyards, which pay at least one-fourth of what we call the landed rent of the province. The wine made is white, and of an acidulous taste. When kept for a year or two, it is both palatable and wholesome; it improves till the age of twenty years, and sells in wholesale, from the cellars at Vienna, at about 8d. per bottle.

Manufactures.] Manufactures are carried on in Austria to a considerable extent. Vienna alone contains 80,000 manufacturers in woollens, silks, cottons, leather, iron, steel, glass, porcelain, paper, toys, household furniture, dress-making, &c.; and exports to the different provinces of the monarchy, to the value of £1,200,000 annually in manufactured goods. The manufacture of linen articles is very great. During the last eight years the flax imported exceeded that exported by 50,000 quintals, while in hemp during this time there was an excess of 396,000 quintals, imported. On the other hand, during the last eight years the exported raw silk exceeded that imported by 97,885 quintals. Wool, one of the leading articles, both of manufacture and of exportation, has been worked up in such quantities, that the exports of woollen wares amounted to between 20,000,000 and 25,000,000 of florins, besides an exportation of raw wool, amounting to 3,300 tons. Austria has, within eight years, exported 97,885 cwt. of silk more than it has imported, and would assuredly have derived greater advantage from manufacturing it at home. The manufacture of cotton wares has been much increased during the last few years. In 1829 there were 23,975 bales of raw cotton imported, in 1834 there were 72,037 bales, and in 1838 as many as 119,787 bales, and nearly all manufactured in Austria by the 346 manufactories of this article. The national manufactures have within the last ten years made immense progress. Lower Austria has 400 factories, and 59,900 workshops. In 1839 Austria produced 3,324,114 quintals of bars, and 522,843 quintals of cast-iron. In Austria, exclusive of Hungary, Transylvania, Dalmatia, and the country of Trieste, there is 155,482,323 florins of taxed capital employed in manufactures, The number of trades in Austria, without Hungary, was, in 1837, 903,354; in 1839, 951,815; whence it appears that there is no small increase in the amount of industry.

The

Exports and Imports.] The value of exports from the Austrian dominions, from 1829 to 1838, amounted to 1,151,555,839 Austrian guilders, or nearly 96 millions sterling; of goods imported during the same period, 1,111,542,309 guilders, or about 92 millions sterling. Timber, staves, and wood for firing are largely exported. exportation of vitriol, soda, potashes, pitch, turpentine, acids, and ardent spirits, is considerable. Of olive oil, 262,528 cwt. was imported, but hemp and linseed oils are ex ported. Tallow and fish oil are imported in large quantities, as well as most dye-stuffs. Of metals and minerals the exports exceeded the imports by 3,000,000 florins. It would appear that the bad state of the communications with the sea, and injudicious export-duties, have greatly injured foreign trade in Austria, By far the greater amount of goods imported into Austria is brought from Italy and Saxony; the latter

country being, of all German provinces, the most advanced in manufactures. Joseph II. imagined that he could make manufactures flourish, merely by prohibiting the importation of articles of foreign manufacture; but he lived long enough to perceive the futility of all such legislative enactments, and that the wisdom of a government rather lies in encouraging and directing the national energies than in impelling or controlling them by violent measures. Further notices of Austrian manufacture and commerce, will be found in subsequent chapters, as well as in preceding chapters on the general resources of the empire.

Population.] Hoeck estimated the population of Upper and Lower Austria at 1,820,000, in 1832; Schlosser, a German journalist, at 2,100,000. De Serres-who, in 1814, published a statistical account of the Austrian empire, in four volumes 8vo.-at 1,700,000: Lower Austria containing 1,050,000, and Upper Austria 650,000. Lichtenstern, in 1836, estimated the population of Lower Austria at 1,234,000; and Upper Austria, including the Innviertel, and Hausruckviertel, at 828,000 persons: total, 2,062,000 persons; and Stein stated it at 1,956,334. Dr. Ungewitter, in 1844, estimated it at 2,250,000. The mass of the population is German; but on the Moravian frontiers we find some Slavonians.

Topographical Divisions.] Lower Austria is divided into the government of Vienna, and the four bailiwicks of the Upper and Lower Wienerwald, and the Upper and Lower Manchartsberg.

City of Vienna.] Vienna, the capital of the Austrian empire, and the largest city in Germany, is delightfully situated, in the midst of a plain diversified by a number of picturesque eminences and hills, on the right bank of the Danube, where it receives a small stream called, in German, the Wien-whence the city has its name-which passes through the city and suburbs, near the site of the ancient Vindobona in Pannonia Superior. To the east and north, the surrounding country is entirely level; but to the west and south is seen a range of mountains thickly planted with trees and vines. The Danube, which is here very wide, divides itself in the western part of the city into several arms, forming several islands covered with wood. The neighbourhood of this vast river, its agreeable islands, its variety of prospect, and the fertility of the soil along its banks, all concur to beautify the appearance of Vienna, and would make it an enchanting abode, if a variable climate and foggy atmosphere did not frequently overcast the cheerfulness of the scene. Its streets are unfortunately as narrow as those of any town in the south of Europe. It is divided into two great parts: viz. Vienna Proper, and the suburbs; and nothing can exhibit a greater contrast than these component parts of the same capital,-the_suburbs surprising us by their extent and beauty, while the city disappoints us by its mean and irregular buildings. A stranger is perpetually impressed with the belief that the inhabitants are, as it were, imprisoned in their crowded dwellings; and this impression is fully confirmed by the impatience of the citizens to exchange them in the spring for the free air of the suburbs. In these latter, wide streets, extensive gardens, and large edifices, unite to enable the inhabitants to pass the summer to their satisfaction.

Mr. Howitt, in his recent work entitled 'Rural Life in Germany,' thus describes the city generally: "The city is great and compact, that is, so far as it is included within the walls, while far around there is an immense circle built upon, called the Vorstädte, or suburbs, formed in segments radiating from the centre of the city, six-and-thirty in number. The city itself is still surrounded by its lofty walls and broad moat. Without this moat lies a broad open space, called the Glacis, consisting of plots of grass divided by walks and roads, and by lines of trees; without this green open circle commences the Vorstädte. These are interspersed with gardens, public walks, churches, palaces, and theatres, so that as you walk round the ramparts, now converted into a public promenade surrounding the whole city, you behold within the city a dense mass of noble, though narrow streets, immense piles of princely buildings, and a crowding, bustling population. On the other hand, that is, outwardly, you overlook, wherever you are, a more scattered, but wide-spread scene, as of an eastern city, with towers and domes, gardens and masses of trees, where the light-hearted people are collected to hear music, and render the heat tolerable with lemonade, sugar-water, ices, and such

agreeable palliatives. The suburbs, in fact, form the much greater part of Vienna, of which the total population is now about half a million. As you enter the streets of the city, you are surprised at the life and stir. Streams of welldressed people are pouring along them; handsome carriages and equipages are seen driving as rapidly as in London; the shops present brilliant fronts; cafés in open places project their cool awnings, and set out their scores of chairs for luxurious smokers. All is motion, life, splendour, and crowds; and you feel for the first time since you left London, as if you were once more in a great capital. You are made sensible, too, how far east you have got, and in the chief city of what a variously compounded empire you are. Picturesque groups of foreigners are seated at the doors of various coffee-houses and hotels, and the throng in the streets is brightly variegated with the costumes of Turks, Albanians, Tyrolese, Jews, Wallachians, Hungarians, Armenians, and Italians. The fronts of the shops, painted with bright figures in fresco or in oil, as signs by which they are known, as inns are by theirs, add also to the gayety of appearance. Many of these full-length figures are excellently executed, and would do great credit to a frame in a handsome house, besides that they present you strikingly with various costumes. There is no capital in Europe of the same extent in which so much of what you want to visit, so many of the resorts of business or amusement, of literary or scientific institutions, are set down so near together. Palaces, theatres, houses of the nobility, libraries, collections of subjects of natural history, of arms, trophies, and jewellery, institutions for the education and assistance of its citizens, stand thickly, all within a very moderate space. The finest collections of works of art and of armour, with some palaces of the nobility, it is true, lie in the suburbs; but the Imperial Palace, the University, the Arsenal, the Treasure Chamber, the principal theatres and churches, lie within the wall. Within the walls, too, reside the highest classes chiefly; and wherever you go you obtain views of vast hotels of the nobles, built round courts, the splendour of which in a great measure is lost in the general view of the city, but which surprise you wherever you come upon them."

The places of fashionable resort are the walks and the theatres. The Prater, a large meadow on an island in the Danube, is the great resort of all ranks of people at Vienna, during the summer-season. Vienna contains 50 churches, 21 convents, several nunneries, 70 coffee-houses, 300 taverns, 5 theatres, and 6,518 houses, of which 1,387 are within the walls. According to the official census of Vienna, the population of this capital amounted, in 1840, to 357,927, of whom 204,298 were Austrians, and the rest foreigners: the increase since 1837 being 23,427, but these were chiefly foreigners, residing in the suburbs: the city, properly so called, having only 52,593 inhabitants. Dr. Ungewitter states the population in 1844 at 375,000. The garrison generally amounts to 8,000 or 12,000 men. Most of the houses are well-built of freestone, six stories high, with flat roofs; those of a different description are covered with pieces of timber shaped like tiles. Many of them have four cellars, one under another, with an open space in the middle of each arched roof for the purposes of ventilation; and from the lowermost there is a tube to the top, to let in air from the streets.-The cathedral of St. Stephen, the protomartyr, is a fair and stately Gothic fabric, but somewhat gloomy, owing to the painted glass in the windows. It was founded by Henry I. of Austria, and finished by Henry II. The building, which is of freestone, is 342 feet long, by 144 broad. The steeple is 447 feet high, and is one of the finest in Germany, and much stronger than that of Strasburg, though not so elegant.-The university of Vienna was founded in 1365, and is divided into four faculties, and four nations, -Austrian, Saxon, Hungarian, and Rhenish. Several thousand students attend this university, which has a library of 90,000 volumes.-There are several other excellent libraries at Vienna, as those of count Windhag, and field-marshal Pockstein, and the imperial and archducal libraries. Of these, the imperial is by far the largest, whether for printed books or manuscripts. The building contains, according to the details of Balbi, about 270,000 volumes printed since the year 1500, 12,000 incunabula (books printed previous to the year 1500), 16,016 manuscripts, and 11,240 portfolios, containing one of the richest collections of engravings in Europe. These treasures are principally contained in one grand room, 240 (Vienna) feet long, by 45 wide, and 62 high, having an oval dome of 30 feet elevation above the general ceiling, and in five subsidiary rooms of smaller dimensions; but as the annual increase is from 3,500 to 3,800 volumes, the want of additional space is severely felt. This increase arises partly from the deposit of one copy of every work published in the Austrian territories, and partly from the purchase of foreign books,-for which latter object, together with the cost of

binding, and the purchase of engravings and manuscripts (the salaries of officers being paid separately), there is a fixed annual donation of 19,000 florins, or £1,900 sterling; besides such further funds as are required, and are readily granted by the government, for the purchase of any specific works of expense. For five hours in every day the library is open to the public. No introduction is requisite.33

The climate of Vienna is very variable, and can by no means be called healthy: the annual bills of mortality exhibiting a list of deaths, in the proportion of one in fifteen, according to De Serres; and one in nineteen, according to Nicolai. Various hypotheses have been framed, to account for this extraordinary mortality. Nicolai attributes it to hard eating and drinking, as if all the people of Vienna were drunkards and gluttons. De Serres supposes it to arise chiefly from the resort of country invalids to the numerous hospitals and infirmaries of the capital; and affirms, in perfect contradiction to Nicolai, that the inhabitants are sober and temperate.34 Few spots are so intersected with water as the vicinity of Vienna. The Danube, broken into a variety of channels, loses its usual rapidity, and seems as if disposed to linger in this beautiful scenery. But scarcely has it left the neighbourhood of the capital, and advanced into the great level of Hungary, than it rolls along, in all its former impetuosity. One of the arms of this river, flowing between the city and the suburb of Leopoldstadt, serves for the purposes of navigation, and is crossed in four different places by wooden bridges. The city of Vienna, exclusive of the suburbs, is not large; its circumference being only four miles, or an hour's walk round the ramparts. A large open space of 600 paces in breadth runs round the walls, and separates the city from the suburbs, so that the fortifications command an ample range. The suburbs, great and small, are 33 in number. In 1683, when Vienna was besieged by the Turks, the suburbs were only three or four in number; and a century ago, several of them were only villages or country-seats. Their increase has been chiefly owing to the abrogation, by Joseph II., of the feudal rights possessed by the landed proprietors of the spot, after which the district became entitled to the same privileges as the rest of the capital. Fifty years ago, Vienna was considered to be well-fortified: having a rampart, twelve strong bastions, ten ravelins, deep and wide square ditches, and outworks of proportionable strength. The old works were said to be built with the money extorted by Leopold of Austria from the people of England, as the ransom of the gallant Richard the lion-hearted. With this sum, amounting to 140,000 marks of silver, Cologne weight, Leopold not only walled and fortified Vienna, but likewise the cities of Ens, Hainburg, and Neustadt.

Vienna is situated in 48° 12′ 36′′ north lat., and 16° 16′ 42′′ east long., from Greenwich; and is 175 British miles, road distance, south-east of Prague, in Bohemia.35 A railway is in progress from this city to Bohemia in Galicia, with branches to Brunn, Olmutz, Troppau, and Wiclitchka. Its total length with all its branches will be about 400 miles; and in connexion with the Warsaw and Vienna railway, it will form one uninterrupted line between the Vistula and the Danube, or the Baltic and the Black sea. Another railway connects the city with Baden and Neustadt, and it is proposed to extend it to Raab and Buda in Hungary in one direction, and to Trieste through Styria and Carniola, in another.

"This library has been collecting ever since the days of Maximilian I. and contains the famous collection of Buda, made by Mathias Corvinus, king of Hungary; the choice library of that learned antiquarian Wolfgang Lazius; also 3,000 volumes that belonged to Joannus Sambuccus; a great collection of Greek manuscripts, brought by Busbequius from Constantinople, in his two embassies; a collection belonging to the learned Cuspinian; as also the noted libraries, and astronomical and mathematical instruments of Tycho Brahe, Kepler, and Gassendi; the noble collection of count Fugger, amounting to 16,000 volumes, and purchased by Ferdinand III.; a part of the renowned library of Heidelberg; and the choicest books of the library at Innspruck.

"De Luca, a German physician, affirms, that of 19,229 children, admitted into the foundling-hospital, from 1772 to 1781, 8,445 have died; and Schlosser terms these foundling-hospitals, moral and natural slaughter-houses: Nicolai says, that before a foundling-hospital was established, above 1,500 foundlings were annually admitted into the town hospital.

"Vienna owes its first aggrandizement to Henry I. in 1142, who then made it the place of his residence, and in 1158 surrounded it with a wall. In 1198, it obtained its municipal privileges. In 1241, it was captured by Frederic II. In 1477, it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Hungarians, who took it, however, in 1485, under the command of Mathias Corvinus, their king. It sustained two sieges from the Turks, in 1529, and 1683; the last of which was infinitely more terrible than the first, as it lasted upwards of ten weeks. The road to Vienna was laid open to the Turks by Tekeli, whom Leopold would not subdue by clemency, and could not reduce by force.