waters boiling and hissing in the interior of the mountain, BOOK while a hot vapour hovers above the ground, from which LXXVII. columns of muddy water frequently shoot up. The sulphur, which forms the crust of these beds of clay, is generally very hot, and is met with under the most beautiful crystalline forms. Iceland produces no salt; but the water of the surrounding sea is fully as saline as that of the Mediterranean. The salt which they obtain from it gives a bluish tint to fish. climate. The atmosphere of Iceland also displays its prodigies. Air and Through an air, which is filled with little icy particles, the sun and moon appear double, or assume extraordinary forms; the aurora borealis reflects a thousand different colours, and every where the magical illusion of the mirage' creates phantom seas and imaginary shores. The ordinary climate would be sufficiently temperate to admit of the cultivation of wheat, which was formerly sufficient for the wants of a much more considerable population. The government takes great pains to revive it. But when the floating ice fixes itself between the northern promontories of this island, all farther hope of cultivation for one or two years entirely ceases, a frightful degree of cold diffuses itself through the whole island, the winds bring with them complete columns of icy particles, vegetation is entirely destroyed, and famine and despair appear seated upon those mountains, which in vain are heated by all the fires of their subterranean abyss. the cli Within the space of one century the inhabitants reckoned Habitual forty-three bad seasons, among which there were four-severity of teen years of famine. In 1784 and 1785, when an intense mate. severity of winter succeeded volcanic eruptions, 9000 individuals perished, or one-fifth of the entire population, with 190,488 sheep, 28,000 horses, and 11,491 horned cattle.* * Stephansen, (Magistrate of Iceland,) Description of Iceland, in the 18th century, Copenhagen. 1807. Olavius, Economical Journey in Iceland, (in Danish.) Olafsen, Voyage to Iceland. BOOK Vegetation. Ancient forests. The Elymus arenarius, in Icelandic, melur, is a species LXXVII. of wild wheat, which affords good flour. The lichen Islandicus, and several other species of lichens, are used as food, as well as a great number of antiscorbutic roots, and even several kinds of marine plants, and, amongst others, the Alga saccharifera, and the Fucus foliaceus. Iceland produces, like Norway, an immense quantity of wild berries of an excellent flavour. Gardening is now practised over the whole country. Cauliflowers, however, do not succeed. The cultivation of the potato has not made sufficient progress for the advantage of the island. In former times, the southern valleys were covered with extensive forests, but they have been devastated by an improvident economy. At present, nothing more is seen than a few woods of birch trees, and a great deal of brushwood. But the wood which is denied to the Icelanders by the earth is brought to them Floating by the ocean. The immense quantity of thick trunks of pines, firs, and other trees, which are thrown upon the northern coasts of Iceland, especially upon North Cape, and Cape Langaness, is one of the most astonishing phenomena in nature. This wood comes floating down upon these two points of land in such abundance, that the inhabitants neglect the greater part of it. The pieces which are carried by the waves along these two promontories, towards the other coasts, supply a sufficient quantity for constructing their boats. wood, The horses are of the same species as those of Norway, and are employed, with the asses, to carry loads. The oxen and cows are generally without horns, but the sheep, on the contrary, have two, and sometimes three, are very large, and have longer wool than the common Danish sheep. Iceland contains about 400,000 sheep, and nearly 40,000 horned cattle. The pastures, if better attended to, would constitute the true riches of the island; but they are left in a state of nature. Government has brought the rein-deer to Iceland, and it has multiplied there. It is remarkable that this animal was not originally a native of the country, considering that LXXVII. Foxes. the rein-deer moss grows there in great abundance. The BOOK foxes of Iceland furnish beautiful furs. Those of a grayish colour are sometimes sold at Copenhagen for thirty or forty shillings. This is the only wild animal of Iceland. The white bear, which sometimes reaches these shores, floating upon islands of ice, now and then commits ravages before he is destroyed. Among the birds of Iceland, the eider-down duck, Anas mollissima, is celebrated for its down. The falcons of Iceland were formerly in greater Falcons. request than they are in the present day. The white falcon, which is more rarely met with, is worth from three to four pounds sterling. The king of Denmark sometimes makes presents of them to different courts. The sea and rivers offer advantages to the Icelanders Fish. which they neglect. The salmon, trout, barbel, and other excellent fish with which the rivers swarm, are generally permitted to live and die undisturbed. Eels are likewise very abundant; but the inhabitants are afraid of eating them, fancying, that in them they see the offspring of the great sea serpent, which, according to the mythology of Odin, encircles the whole earth, a being whom the Icelanders pretend to have seen lifting his head above the sea, near their solitary shores. The coasts are surrounded with herrings; but it is only lately that the inhabitants have become acquainted with the use of nets. Small whales, and the seacalf and sea-dog, together with the cod, are what the natives most commonly fish for. Iceland is divided into four districts, named after the Provinces four cardinal points. Those of the south, the east, and the and towns, west, formed the diocese of Skalholt. The diocese of Holum comprised the northern quarter; but, since 1801, the two bishoprics have been united. New sites have been marked out for founding other towns. That of Reikiavik contained, a short time ago, about a hundred houses, and constitutes the present capital of the country. Bessestadr is the seat of a good academy, with a collection of 1500 volumes, which is no doubt the most northern library in the world. Commerce. BOOK The commerce of Iceland, formerly shackled by monoLXXVII. poly, is now free. The inhabitants export fish, train-oil, meat, tallow, butter, hides, eider-down, wool, worsted thread, and coarse woollen stuffs. Their importations consist of wheat, grain, brandy, tobacco, colonial merchandise, fine stuffs, and articles of hardware. The value of this commerce is liable to considerable variation. landers. In 1784, the exportations amounted to 244,422 rix-dollars, and their importations to 189,492 rix-dollars.* In 1806, the exportations were estimated at 191,236 rix-dollars, and the importations, at 167,205 rix-dollars.† Let us now proceed to consider the interesting people The Ice- who inhabit this singular country. The Icelanders are, in general, of a moderate stature, and well proportioned; but as their food contains little nourishment, they are by no means vigorous. Their marriages are not attended with a numerous offspring. They are by no means industrious, but honest, benevolent, faithful, and obliging, these generous islanders display all the hospitality which their means can afford. Their principal occupations consist in fishing, and taking charge of their flocks. Along the coasts, the men continue fishing, both in summer and winter. The women make ready their fish, and sew, and spin. The men prepare hides, and exercise the mechanical arts. Some of them work in gold and silver. They also manufacture, like the peasants of Jutland, and several other provinces, a kind of coarse cloth, known by the name of Wadmal. They manufacture annually 146,000 pairs of woollen stockings, and 163,000 pairs of gloves. These islanders are so attached to their native country, that they are wretched every where else. Naturally grave and religious, they never cross a river, or any other dangerous passage, without uncovering their head, and imploring the Divine pro Arts and trades. * Ordonnance of the King of Denmark, of 13th June, 1787, p. 139. + Danish Geographical Dict. of 1807. See Anderson, Dict. Comm. p. 424. Mohr and Olavius, Travels in Iceland, (in Danish.) BOOK LXXVII. Social in tection. When assembled together, their favourite amusement consists in reading their historical relations, or compositions of their ancient bards. The master of the house begins, and the others take his place by turns.* At other tercourse. times, modern poetry is read aloud. Sometimes, one of the men gives his hand to a woman, and they sing couplets alternately, that form a kind of dialogue,‡ the rest of the company now and then joining in the chorus. The game of chess is very much in vogue amongst them, and, like the ancient Scandinavians, they feel great pride in playing it with skill. The dress of the Icelanders is neither elegant, nor Dress. very much ornamented; but, on the other hand, it is decent, clean, and adapted to the climate. The women wear rings of gold, silver, and copper, on their fingers. The poorer among them are dressed in the coarse stuff which we already noticed; and which is always of a black colour. Those who enjoy greater ease of circumstances, are clothed in more ample stuffs, and wear ornaments of gilt silver. The Icelanders are in general badly lodged. In some places their houses are constructed of the wood which has been thrown up by the sea; and sometimes the walls are made of lava and moss. They cover the roof with sods, placed on joists, and occasionally upon the ribs of whales, which are more durable, and less expensive than wood. Many of their huts are made entirely of sods, and are lighted by a window in the roof. Their principal food consists of dry-fish, and preparations of milk. They are sparing of their animal food, and, formerly, bread was scarce. At present, however, 18,000 tons of rye are consumed in the island. The wealthy know the use of wine, coffee, and all the spices of our kitchen. A more useful imitation of the Danish manners has led to the establishment of several literary societies here, some of which have published memoirs. The parishes, too, have begun to form little public Intelligence, libraries, from which the heads of families borrow books of and litera These meetings are termed Sagu-Lestor. Rimu-Lestor. ture. |