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the west point of that island bears N. by E. E., when you must haul directly in toward it, and, skirting along the steep mud-bank which borders the south side of the island, steer for its S.E. point, close to which you may anchor in 4 fathoms. In reaching this anchorage, the least depth you will have to pass over will be 2 fathoms at low spring ebbs; and this occurs only after hauling in for the island, and running along the edge of the mudbank. It is high water here, on full and change days, at 7h. 10m., and spring tides rise 11 feet.

SIERRA LEONE, the most important settlement on this part of the coast, may be represented as a peninsula, extending from the Sierra Leone to Yawry Bay, which consists of an irregular mass of peaked mountains, with valleys and prairies lying between them. The mountains are covered to their summits with lofty forests, which give the scenery a beautiful, rich and romantic appearance. The river which forms its eastern boundary is a noble estuary extending 20 miles inland, varying in width from 10 miles at its entrance, to 4 where it terminates. The settlement was formed in 1787, with the view of commencing the introduction into this part of Africa of the benefits of European civilization. It has been largely colonized by Maroons and Negroes from America and the West Indies, and captured slaves; and in 1833, contained 29,764 inhabitants; but its prosperity has advanced very slowly, and, so far as regards the objects originally intended, the settlement may be pronounced a failure. Throughout the peninsula there are several villages; but the capital is Freetown, at the northern extremity, a well-built place, with regular and spacious streets. The settlement has long laboured under the imputation of extreme unhealthiness, and has been called "the white man's grave," but it has of late years very much improved in this respect, and is, indeed, now represented as not more unhealthy than any other place within the tropics, Europeans being indebted for their great mortality more to their improper manner of living than to the character of the climate.

The coast to the northward of Sierra Leone as far as Yellaboi Island, a distance of 25 miles, is exceedingly low and flat, and bordered with a shoal bank 3 to 6 miles in breadth, which has upon it several dangerous rocks. On the south side of the river the land is higher, as the cape is the termination of a range of lofty hills named the Sierra Leone, or Lion Mountains, which have given name to the river and country. At the extremity of this cape there is a lighthouse 69 feet high showing a fixed light, which is a good mark for vessels approaching the river in the night-time. From this lighthouse the exact bearing of the Carpenter Rock is stated to be W. 13° 7' S. (true).

The mouth of the River Sierra Leone is obstructed by an extensive sandbank, named the Middle Ground, which in many parts is dry at low water, but having on each side a passage; that on the north, however, is only fit for very small vessels, in a depth, at half a mile from shore, of 2 and 3 fathoms. The principal channel is that between the Middle Bank and the cape, which is fit for vessels of every burthen, as it varies in depth from 5 to 10 and 12 fathoms, and is about two miles in breadth.

The Carpenter is a dangerous rock, lying at the distance of nearly a mile W. N. from the N.W. extremity of the cape. This rock is clearly seen at half tide, and may always be distinguished by the breakers over it; the flood stream sets directly through the channel formed by it and Cape Sierra Leone; and though the rock may safely be approached within half a mile, yet it will be proper for those beating down the river, with the sea breeze and a strong ebb tide, to be careful and not approach so near.

On the starboard side of the River Sierra Leone, the coast is indented with several inlets, respectively named Cape, Pirate's, Whiteman's, St. George's, or Freetown, Susan's, and Thompson's Bays; the latter of which is bounded on the east side by Farran Point. Freetown, the capital of the colony, stands on the bay of that name, and is protected by Fort Thornton, which stands on the highest ground in its immediate neighbourhood, except that on which the Martello tower is erected at a distance of a quarter of a mile. The town is situated at the foot of the range of mountains already noticed, whose general height is estimated from 2000 to 3000 feet.

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Ships proceeding from Cape Verd to Sierra Leone, and having reached the latitude of 9° 15' N., should endeavonr to gain soundings on the edge of the great bank from the Bissagos to Cape St. Ann. From a depth of 50 fathoms, grey sand, you may steer a true course S.E. by E., until you arrive in the parallel of the cape, in 8° 30', from whence an East (true) direction will enable you to distinguish the mountains of Sierra Leone, which are often seen at a distance of 14 leagues, though, in hazy weather, very prevalent on this coast, they are often invisible 6 or 5 leagues. It is recommended to make a constant use of the lead, when approaching towards the entrance; should the depth gradually vary from 20 towards 14 or 13 fathoms, and suddenly shallow to 7 or 8 fathoms, you will not be more than 3 leagues distant; and should this happen towards evening, it will be better to anchor till daylight. Proceeding as we have thus directed, and having made the high land Sierra Leone, you should bring it to bear E.S.E. E. (East.) The cape makes in a small low point, having a ridge of cocoa-trees close to the water's edge; and when within 3 leagues of the cape, you may observe the Carpenter Rock, with the sea constantly breaking over it. Having passed the cape within a quarter of a mile, in 9 or 10 fathoms, a S.E. by E. E. (E. S.) course, 3 miles, will carry you to Freetown, where there is anchorage in 14 or 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, a quarter of a mile from shore, with Fort Thornton bearing S. by W.; the east point of the bay S.E. E.; and the west point, named King Tom's Point, W. by N. Moor with the best bower to the eastward. The watering-place here is very convenient, and the water excellent.

If approaching from sea you will probably endeavour to strike soundings on the parallel of 8° 30' N. In a depth of 9 or 10 fathoms you will be at the distance of 3 or 4 leagues from the shore, and should bring the Lion Mountains to bear E.S.E. when you may proceed as previously directed.

As the lighthouse on Cape Sierra Leone bears from the Carpenter Rock E. S., and from the western end of the Middle Ground S.W. S., vessels should be careful when coming from the westward not to bring the light to bear more to the eastward than E.S.E. E.; and if coming from the southward, not to alter course until the light is on that bearing. If from the northward, the light should not be brought more to the westward than S.S.W.

W., until King Tom's Point comes in one with the centre barrack, S.S.E. E., by which means the Middle Ground will be avoided.

In approaching the river by night, it is advisable to anchor in order to make sure of your position, as the tide and current sometimes combine in sweeping you out of sight of the land before morning, or even into the dangerous vicinity of the St. Ann Shoals.

In sailing up the river, do not approach nearer the Middle Bank than 7 fathoms. Farran Point is high, and has a house upon its summit; it has sometimes, in hazy weather, been mistaken for Cape Sierra Leone, although the cape is nearly 2 leagues to the eastward; the consequence of which has been, that vessels have touched on the Middle Ground. If this point is brought to bear S.E. by E. E., when it will be well open to the north of the cape, it will point out the mid-channel between the Middle Ground and the Carpenter.

If intending to proceed beyond Freetown a pilot must be obtained, the river, at 5 miles from the town, becoming very intricate.

The Tide at Freetown, flows on the full and change days at 7h. 50m., and rises 12 feet. During the rainy season, the tide is very regular and strong, running 6 and 7 knots an hour, and the ebb sets rapidly on the Middle Ground. In the dry months, it commonly flows on shore at 7h. 30m., with 7 hours' ebb, and 4 flood. In this season the ebb runs 24 miles an hour,

the flood only 2 miles.

FALSE CAPE bears S. by W. W. from Cape Sierra Leone, distant about 4 miles, and is situated to the southward of a slender sandy bay, bordered with trees. The cape is a conspicuous projecting point. From False Cape to York, or the Sisters' River, the coast trends S. E. 12 miles; and from York to Cape Chilling S. W. 7 miles. At Cape Chilling the chain of Sierra Leone mountains terminate, after having made a high double land, which is seen a great way off. The cape itself is low, covered with trees, and appears, at 3 or 4 leagues distant, like a small island; but the interior, or south extremity of the range of mountains, is extremely high, and may be seen a distance of 14 or 15 leagues.

The BANANA ISLANDS are separated from Cape Chilling by a channel 2 miles in breadth, and are chiefly foul and rocky. A vessel may anchor to the northward of them, with the N.E. extremity of the group bearing S.S.E. E., and the western part S.S.W.; here there is a depth of 7 and 8 fathoms towards the island, but little more than 2 fathoms, a cable's length from shore. There is also anchorage to the southward; but the best position is in 5 fathoms, 2 miles from shore, on clayey ground, the N.E. point bearing S. E., and the highest hill S. by W. W. The best landing-place is in a sandy bay, at the S.W. end, where wood and water may be obtained.

YAWRY BAY is formed by Cape Chilling on the north, Tassa Point on the south, distant from each other 6 leagues S.S.E. and N.N.W. This bay is encumbered with a shoal which stretches 4 miles from the coast, many parts of which dry with the ebb, and have little more than 4 feet at high water. The Plaintain Isles and Bengal Rocks extend 5 miles to the westward of Tassa Point, on the flat between Yawry Bay and Sherbro' Inlet.

TIDES. The tides off the False Point of Sierra Leone. To the northward of that point, the flood runs to the northward; to the southward of that point it sets to the south. Hence, at the Bananas, the flood is from the N.W., and the ebb contrary. Here the tide flows, on the full and change days, at Sh equinoxes, it rises 9 or 10 feet perpendicular; other spring At the Plantain Isles, it rises about a foot and a half more

15m. During the tides, 8 or 9 feet.

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than at the Bananas; but at the Bashaw or Turtle Isles, more to the southward, the rise is 6 or 7 feet, common spring tides.

SHERBRO' INLET is the channel between the main and Sherbro' Island, the western extremity of which is named Cape St. Ann. The main land forms the north side of the inlet, and consequently the north side of the island forms the south side. From the extremity of the north side, the coast bends somewhat to the S.S.E. to Yaltucka River, and is encumbered with a mud-bank and several shoals, as far as the River Bagroo, which is 6 leagues farther. The north side of Sherbro' Island extends 8 leagues to Jamaica Point, the eastern extremity, and the coast between is bordered with an extensive mud-bank. About 4 leagues from Cape St. Ann, on this side of the island, is, or was, the remarkable tree named Little Pow Grande; and 34 miles to the eastward of this spot is Pow Grande. Jenkin's Village is distant 4 miles from the latter, and affords anchorage for large vessels in 5 to 7 fathoms.

Vessels bound to Sherbro' Inlet should steer from the west end of the Bananas, toward the Bengal Rocks, S.S.E. E. (S.E. E. 14 miles, so as to give them a berth of about 3 miles. Having rounded these rocks steer S.E. S. 5 leagues, taking care to avoid the hard sand bank on the east, which is steep-to. In running on, you may shoalen your water to 4 fathoms, on the flat of Yaltucka River, upon the eastern side, and thence continue the same course 4 leagues farther to the southern bank, making due allowance for tide, whether ebb or flood. The last course will lead to a mile and a half from shore, in about 4 fathoms of water, and without the edge of the bank. You may now run up along shore, for 2 leagues, to Jenkin's, taking care to avoid the edge of the middle ground on the north, which here leaves a channel of only half a mile between it and the shore.

THE BASHAW, OR TURTLE ISLANDS, consist of eight or ten in number, and are situated on a great bank, extending to the N.W. of Sherbro', and S.E. to the Shoals of St. Ann. The bank on which these islands lie is intersected by numerous channels, which are navigable for boats at high water, but are so complicated as to render description useless, and indeed of no utility.

THE SHOALS OF ST. ANN.-The limits of the bank on which these shoals exist are but yet imperfectly known. The best authorities consider the northern extremity to lie in latitude 7° 58'; the south extreme, 7° 31′ 5′′; and the western limit, 7° 48′ N., longitude 13° 29′ W. They are divided by numerous channels, varying in depth from 6 to 10 fathoms. A narrow passage of this nature divides St. Ann's Bank from that on which the Turtle Islands are situated; but this, like the others, should not be attempted with the imperfect description we are at present in possession of. As a general caution to vessels bound from Sierra Leone towards the Gulf of Guinea, we should recommend a S.W. W. course, 43 miles; and having reached the latitude of 7° 56', in the meridian of 13° 44', a course S.S.E. E. will take you clear to the southward of all the shoals.

About 60 miles from the River Shebar, on the coast to the eastward of Sherbro' Island, is the River Gallinis, and from hence to Cape Mount, the coast is very low, with a fine sandy beach, and covered with trees.

CAPE MOUNT is of considerable height, and may be seen 25 to 30 miles off. It consists of several hills which rise to the height of 1060 feet above the sea, and bears from a distance considerable resemblance to an island. The western point of the cape is in lat. 6° 44′ 25′′ N. and long. 11° 23′ 15′′ W.; and the base of the mount, from thence for 3 miles to the south-eastward, is formed by a succession of rocky points and small sandy bays.

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There the coast again sinks into a low continuous beach of light brown sand; one universal forest prevailing over the entire face of the country up to the summit of the cape, and extending without intermission to Cape Mesurado.

Cape Mount, bearing E., distant 10 miles.

To fall in with Cape Mount, you ought to keep in the latitude of 6° 40′, having on account of the current, which sets toward the shore, frequent recourse to the lead, when you think yourself near the land. In the night, you ought not to approach it nearer than to 26 fathoms, unless well acquainted. The roadstead lies to the westward, where you may anchor in 10 to 15 fathoms, bringing the extremity of the cape to bear South, or S. by E. In fine weather, vessels may ride securely between Cape Mount and the river of that name to the north-westward; but in the rainy season, during southerly and south-west winds, there is a tremendous sea and breakers on the shore, so that, during these months, vessels should lie well out, as otherwise it may be difficult to get to windward.

CAPE MESURADO is high, and distant about 43 miles S.E. by S. from Cape Mount; the coast between is low, having a white sandy beach. At the distance of 2 miles from the shore is a depth of 10 fathoms. Vessels may lie in any depth from 5 to 15 fathoms, off the River St. Paul, which lies about 3 leagues to the northward of Cape Mesurado; there is also anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms, muddy ground, with the cape bearing about S.E. by S., distant 2 or 3 miles. The rainy season, between Cape St. Ann and Cape Mesurado, usually commences about May, and terminates in October; it is generally accompanied with thunder and lightning, and the sea sets so hard to the N.E. along the shore, as to cause a most violent surf on the shore.

Cape Mesurado is an elevated promontory, almost perpendicular on the north side, but with a gradual declivity towards the sea on the south. There are regular soundings, of 20 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, at 8 miles off shore, along which the current sets strongly. At 2 or 3 miles off shore, with the cape S.E. by S., is a depth of 15 to 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, and a common anchorage. With the cape bearing N.E., the land appears like an island, with trees rising out of the water to the north; and at 7 leagues off, it appears in its insular form, the land on each side being very low. In the winter months here, as at Cape Mount, vessels sbould lie out, on account of the heavy sea in the bay, and the southerly winds, which would otherwise render it very difficult to get out to windward. To anchor at the cape in the rainy season, bring the mount to bear S.E., distance off shore 3 or 34 miles, and come to in 14 fathoms of water.

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