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consider it at all hazardous to keep the land on board. In the opposite sea son, when the sun has South declination, the winds will incline from the southward of West, and frequently blow hard; but as the coast is a weather shore, the sea goes down immediately after the gale. In this season, although the winds are generally against a ship's making quick progress, yet, as they seldom remain fixed in one point, and frequently shift backward and forward 6 or 8 points in as many hours, advantage may be taken of the change, so as to keep close in with the coast.

Having once made the land, which should be done to the southward of Cape Blanco, it will be beneficial to keep it topping on the horizon, until the entrance of the Strait of Magellan be passed.

With respect to this part of the voyage, whether to pass through Strait Le Maire, or round Staten Island, much difference of opinion exists Prudence, I think, suggests the latter; yet I should very reluctantly give up the opportunity that might offer of clearing the Strait, and therefore of being so much more to windward. With a southerly wind it would not be advisable to attempt the strait; for, with a weather tide, the sea runs very cross and deep, and might severely injure and endanger the safety of a small vessel, and to a large one do much damage. In calm weather it would be still more imprudent, (unless the western side of the strait can be reached, where a ship might anchor,) on account of the tides setting over to the Staten Island side; where, if it becomes necessary to anchor, it would necessarily be in very deep water, and close to the land. With a northerly wind the route seems not only practicable, but very advantageous; and it would require some resolution to give up the opportunity so invitingly offered. I doubt whether northerly winds, unless they are very strong, blow through the strait; if not, a ship is drifted over to the eastern shores, where, from the force of the tides, she must be quite unmanageable."

Captain Fitzroy, whose authority, from his experience, must be very good, seems to think that there is neither difficulty nor risk in passing the strait (Strait of Le Maire). The only danger that does exist, and that may be an imaginary one, is the failure of the wind. Ships passing through it from the South are not so liable to the failure of the south-westerly wind, unless it be light, and then it will probably be from the N.W., at the northern end of the strait. The anchorage in Good Success Bay, however, is admirably s'tuated, should the wind or tide fail.

In passing to leeward of Staten Island, the tide-race, which extends for some distance off Cape St. John, at the N.E. end of the island, must be avoided; otherwise there exist no dangers.

The anchorage under New Year Islands, although it is a wild one and the bottom bad, and the tide very strong, yet offers good shelter from S.W. winds, and may be occupied with advantage during the existence of a gale from that quarter; since it is unfavourable for ships bound round the Horn.

After passing Staten Island, if the wind be westerly, the ship should be kept upon the starboard tack, unless it veers to the southward of S.S.W., until she reaches the latitude of 60 S., and then upon that tack upon which most Westing may be made. In this parallel, however, the wind is thought to prevail more from the eastward than from any other quarter. Never having passed round Cape Horn in the summer season, I may not perhaps be justified in opposing my opinion to that of others, who, having tried both seasons, give the preference to the summer months. The advantage of long days is certainly very great; but from my experience of the wind and weather, during these opposite seasons, at Port Famine, I preferred the

winter passage, and, in our subsequent experience of it, found no reason to alter my opinion. Easterly and northerly winds prevail in the winter off the cape, whilst southerly and westerly winds are constant during the summer months; and not only are the winds more favourable in the winter, but they are moderate in comparison to the fury of the summer gales.

Having passed the meridian of Cape Pillar, it will yet be advisable to take every opportunity of making westing, in preference to northing, until reaching the meridian of 82° or 84°, which will enable a ship to steer through the north-westerly winds that prevail between the parallels of 50° and 54°

STATEN ISLAND.-This island is situated off the most south-eastern point of South America, being separated from it by the Strait of Le Maire. It is 38 miles in extent from Cape St. John to Cape Bartholomew, and is described as extremely mountainous and rugged, composed of lofty hills (2000 and 3000 feet high), the summits of which are covered with snow during the greater part of the year. The coast throughout is fo med of rocky cliffs from 200 to 500 feet in height, which, for the most part, are steep-to, having from 15 to 20 fathoms close to their bases. The numerous projections and indentations of the island are merely continuations of ranges of hills and valleys, consequently all the harbours preserve nearly the same direction as the valleys and are surrounded by high land, the water deepening rapidly towards their centres.

Here the force of the tides is very great; this, together with the position of the headlands, in relation to the direction of the tides, causes a rough breaking sea, when the wind is strong and contrary, which is dangerous for a large vessel and impassable by a boat. Southward of the island the tide is scarcely perceptible; but there is a remarkable undertow which renders it dangerous for a boat to stretch across the mouths of the deep bays, on account of the difficulty met with in again closing with the land. It is for this reason that the sealers constantly follow the circuitous route of the shore. High water at full and change at 3h. 50m. Rise 7 to 9 feet.

Off the north side of Staten Island is a group of small islands affording a sort of protection from westerly winds, named the New Year Isles; under the north-eastern of these there is anchorage in 17 fathoms; but this is liable to the influence of any wind between N. and E.N.E., the bottom is rocky, the tides rapid, and the distance of the eddies from the land so uncertain, that it is no easy matter for a vessel to keep clear of her anchors.

St. John's Harbour is on the north-east extremity of Staten Island, and known at a distance by Mount Richardson at its head, and on a nearer approach by a remarkable cliff on the eastern shore. In making for this harbour attention must be given to the rapidity of the tide running across its mouth; to the gusts of S.W. winds that come from the mountains, which are exceedingly violent; and to the kelp which lines the shores, and serves as an excellent mark for the unnavigable parts of the harbour: the edge of this kelp is almost always in 8 fathoms, and generally near the shore. At the head of the harbour, distant 3 miles S.S.W. from the entrance, is good shelter for a vessel in a depth between 5 and 20 fathoms, sandy bottom; on account of the gusts of wind from the mountains it is advisable to moor with an open hawse to the S.W. Off the western point of the entrance there is a rock which requires a berth.

Further to the westward is Port Cook in which a vessel will find shelter and good anchorage in not too deep water; the prevalent winds are regular, and there is an easy communication with the south side of the island. Its

entrance is very narrow with a depth of only 6 fathoms, but within the depth increases to 16 and 20 fathoms.

New Year Harbour is about half a mile broad and extends 3 miles to the S.W.; the depth varies from 20 to 45 fathoms, with a bottom of mud and sand. The passage in is on the eastern side of a cluster of islets lying in the entrance.

Port Basil Hall is a most convenient anchorage when once attained, and well sheltered from all winds, though the whirlwinds exist here as well as in the other harbours of this island; but, on account of the lowness of the south-western shore, they are not so violent. The mouth of the harbour is contracted by two rocks, which, together with the depth of water, renders the access difficult without suitable wind and tide. When in pass on the eastern side of the dangers pointed out by the kelp, and anchor on the western shore between a small green island, whose southern side must have a good berth, and a fine sandy beach to the northward of the island in from 7 to 10 fathoms. Wood and water can be obtained in abundance.

Port Parry is the first opening to the westward of New Year Island, and may be easily distinguished by a quoin-shaped mount on its eastern side. The harbour is divided into two parts by the contraction of its opposite shores. Good anchorage may be obtained, southward of a small grassy islet on the eastern shore of the inner harbour, in 9 or 10 fathoms, sandy bottom; from hence the water deepens to the head of the harbour, where s vessel may be moored, opposite to a sandy beach, with an open hawse to the S.S.W., for squalls are frequent and violent, though not to be apprehended by a vessel well moored. A leading wind is indispensably necessary for sailing through the contraction. In the outer port is a rocky patch with only 4 fathoms upon it; here a vessel might find temporary anchorage as the water shoals gradually up to it.

Port Hoppner is next westward of Port Parry; it is sheltered from N.W. winds by a rocky island at its mouth, for the space of half a mile within which anchorage may be taken in from 8 to 20 fathoms. This harbour is likewise divided into two parts. Near the head of the outer harbour there is anchorage close to the shore, which is high and precipitous on the western side. This is the westernmost harbour in Staten Island, there are, however, small coves on the eastern side of Flinders and Crossley Bays where anchorage may be found, but these are unprotected from the sea and prevalent winds.

On the South side of Staten Island is Port Vancouver where refuge can be taken during S.W. gales. A vessel may ride quite secure in 16 or 17 fathoms, sandy bottom, close to a small river, and near a convenient wooding place in the western arm. On the eastern side of the entrance there is a rocky island always visible, and a reef runs some distance from the south point of the western arm, to avoid which do not haul up for the anchorage until a remarkable white ravine on the south shore becomes visible. A ship must moor with an open hawse to the westward. This harbour is the first

opening eastward of the Dampier Islands. Back Harbour has not good qualities, farther than good holding-ground, for which it can be recommended; though small vessels have occasionally sought refuge from N.W. winds.

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1. SILHOUETTE VIGIA.-On the 5th of February, 1754, the people on board the ship Silhouette, commanded by M Pintault, felt a shock, or violent agitation, as if the vessel had touched upon a shoal. It was then about 5 p.m., and from the latitude taken by that very day's observation, this dangerous spot should be 20' to the southward of the line, in about 20° 50′W. longitude, according to their reckoning, which they traced upon the French chart, from the road of Praya, in the Isle of St. Iago. On the 13th April, 1758, the frigate La Fidele, M. Le Houx, commander, felt the like shocks, in 20′ S. latitude, and 18° 0′ W. longitude.

2. AQUILA REEF.-On the 12th April, 1831, the Aquila, of Scarbro', Captain John Taylor, was in latitude 22′ 15′′ S., and in longitude 21° 6′ 30′′ W., light winds and fine pleasant weather. At 40′ p.m., the water being very smooth, and the ship going at the rate of 5 knots, a loud rumbling noise was heard under her bottom, and a sensation felt, exactly like that of a vessel sliding over a rock: the rudder was so much agitated, that the man who was steering could scarcely hold the wheel. No difference could be observed in the colour of the water, nor the smallest rippling. The situation of the Aquila is very near the Silhouette, above described.

3. BOUVET'S SANDY ISLE.-On the 3rd of May, 1761, Le Vaillant, Captain Bouvet, about 1 p.m., saw a small rocky island, which bore N. by E. The latitude, by reckoning at noon, was about 23' S., and their longitude, reckoned from the sight of Ferro Island, which they made on the 8th of April, was about 19° 10′ W.-See Note 36, page 309.

4. TRITON'S BANK.-On the 18th December, 1816, Captain Proudfoot, in the ship Triton, passed over this shoal. It appeared to extend in an E. and W. direction, 3 miles, and in a N. and S. direction, one mile. Sounded in 23 fathoms brown sand; saw no appearance of breakers.-See Note 36, page 309

5. SHOAL OF MANOEL LUIS.-This shoal lies off Maranham, in latitude 0° 52′ 10′′ S., and longitude 44° 13′ W. It extends more than half a mile across from N. to S., but not less than 3 miles in an E. by S. and W. by N. direction. It is formed by a cluster of conical rocks, whose heads are just beneath the surface of low tides, having small openings of deep water (8 to 10, and 17 fathoms) between them, which renders it the more dangerous; as in case of striking thereon, a vessel would, most propably, go down immediately. The utmost precaution, therefore, is necessary, in order to avoid this danger, as it shows itself occasionally at low tides, and then

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