east and west. The extreme points of these are Point Tuberao, at 10 leagues to the E.S.E., and the Morro Tibao, or Little Reteira, at 6 leagues to the W.N.W. The bank of soundings here extends to 4 or 5 leagues from shore.

ANGERSTEIN REEF.-In the month of December, 1830, the brig Angerstein, John Bouch master, passed through a cluster of rocks, thirteen in number, and from 2 to 3 fathoms under water. The vessel ran close alongside of one, which was quite visible under the water, and the master, heaving the lead on it, had not more than 11 feet of water. Mr Bouch describes the rocks as of a dark brown colour, showing themselves sufficiently for a vessel to pass clear of them; and before a second cast can be got, you may be in 10 fathoms of water. They lie in a triangular form, about 11 miles from the land, with Point do Mel S.S.E. E., and the Red Mount on the Reteiro W.N.W. W., about 8 leagues; with the given bearings and distance from land, the latitude must be 4° 44', or 4° 45′ S., and longitude 37° 6' W. Like the Urcas, at 15 leagues to the eastward of them, they seem to lie on the edge of the flats, where there is a depth of 6 fathoms, corally ground."

66

ARACATI. The first port of the Northern Coast of Brazil is that of Aracati, on the River Jaguaripe, a place of rising consequence. The mouth of the river is in latitude 4° 23′ 30′′ S., and longitude 37° 49′ W. At the entrance is a narrow and dangerous bar, owing to sand-banks on each side, and upon these the surf is very violent. The sand is so loose at the mouth of the river, that, even with the coasting-vessels of the country, every precaution is required. Within the bar the river widens immediately, and forms rather a spacious basin.

Mr Richard Dixon, commander of the Westmoreland, of Liverpool, says, "As vessels frequently engage at Pernambuco, on the eastern coast, to load a cargo, or part of a cargo, at Aracati, they consequently proceed, in the first instance, to the N.N.E., and then N., until they have passed Cape St. Roque, and the parallel of the extensive flats on the north coast, bearing the same name. The latitude of the Urcas, the most dangerous reef on these flats, is 4° 50′ S., in the longitude of 36° 18', or thereabout. On approaching near enough to the shore, Point do Mel will be seen, composed of red cliffs, and low white spots of sand on each side of them. This point must be avoided, for when it bore about S.S.E., at the distance of 7 miles, we were on a shallow bank of 17 feet, and farther to the leeward the water appeared white, and, without doubt, was shallower. Running along shore north-westward, and and keeping in about 6 fathoms, Point Reteiro Pequeno, formerly named Cape Corso, will be seen, and also a mountain, appearing blue in the interior; the former appears red, being a large bank of red sand, and the latter resembles Bardsey Island, in the St. George's Channel. When these two objects are in one, the Reteiro Grande, or Algeberana Head, will be distinctly The land to the south-eastward of this head, for 3 or 4 miles, has a very singular appearance, forming like two steps, the lower part being reddish, and the other grey. The head itself is rugged, and has a pinnacle close to its base, which, when bearing W. by S., will appear open.

seen.

At the distance of about a mile there are several rocks, of which the outermost is covered at high water; it is necessary, therefore, to give this head a good berth, until a large lump, or hill, situated on the S.W. side of Reteiro Bay is brought to bear S.W.; then steer toward the hill, until Reteiro Head bears E.S.E. With these bearings there is safe anchorage in 3 fathoms of water; or if the vessel's draught will admit, you may go farther in, and have smoother water, as the rocks off the head break off much of the sea. The distance from this place to Aracati is about 21 miles, and a great part of the

way is along the sea-shore. The course from this anchorage to the bar of Jaguaripe is about N.W. N., the distance 20 miles.

The land in the vicinity of the bar is very barren; on the north side of the entrance is a high red bluff, and also two rocks close to the water's edge; one of these has the appearance of a large gun mounted, with a small fort and flagstaff, and some huts close to it. These objects, together with the spit of sand on the S.E. side, the breakers across the mouth of the river, and the smoothness of the water within them, are good marks by which the entrance may be readily known.

In proceeding towards the bar, a low spit of sand will be observed, which forms the S.E. side of the entrance of the river, and a ridge of heavy breakers parallel to the shore for 2 or 3 miles, without any appearance of a passage. We approached them in our boat, and, perceiving a buoy, we soon got within the breakers, where we ascertained that this was not the channel used by the pilots, although there were 6 feet water in it at low water. The best channel is farther to the N.W.; for, besides having 3 feet at low water, it affords an easier passage out, as it lies in a N.E. and S.W direction; whereas the former lies nearly E.N.E. and W.S.W., and is very nar

row.

Both of these channels are liable to shift, and therefore every master ought to make himself acquainted with the state of the bar before he attempts to enter. Buoys or boats may be readily placed in the channel, or perches may be fixed on the spits or on shore. He should also know the time of high water, and take the bar half an hour earlier. After passing the boat or buoy, that should be moored in the deepest water between the breakers, it will be necessary to haul up S.S.E. or South, to clear a bank on the west side that nearly dries at low water, (On this bank, as well as on that to the northeastward of it, perches ought to be fixed.) So soon as this bank is cleared, the depth will increase, and a westerly course must be taken, in order to pass between the high sandy beach on the starboard, and a low bank that dries at two hours ebb, on the port hand. This channel, not a furlong in width, is by the pilots generally named the Funnel; and there are usually 10 or 12 perches along the edge of the low bank. Having passed this narrow channel, it is proper to haul to the southward, to get under the sandy point on the south side of the river, into smooth water. In advancing towards O'Neil's Bank, which must be approached with caution, keep the lead going, and tack in good time, in order to get close to the weather shore. The channel between this bank and the shore is deep and narrow, but after passing it, there is good anchorage in 3 or 4 fathoms, where vessels generally anchor, when waiting for a wind or tide to go out.

A vessel, whose draught of water does not exceed 10 feet (and it would be imprudent to be much deeper for passing the bar), may sail up, at two hours' flood, to Cook's Anchorage, where vessels generally load; and by waiting for more of flood, she may go 2 miles still farther up, and take in a cargo safely.

Sailing out of this port is more dangerous than coming in, as the wind is only favourable for passing the bar during three hours in the morning, and even then it cannot be depended upon. Should it fail, or head in the least, the vessel would be in imminent danger, as a heavy sea is always running on the bar, and the channel is so narrow, that anchoring would be useless. When a vessel has been conducted through the Funnel, and as far down as the lowest perch, and being on the starboard tack, as much canvas should be set as she can carry in order to give her good way over the shallowest part, and through the breakers.

No vessel should attempt to go out, if it has been blowing hard the day before, as a heavy sea will then be on the bar, and probably the breeze not regular.

According to the pilots and inhabitants of the place, the channels often shift. The banks being composed of quicksands, the river, when swollen with rains, forces its way through them in various directions, and sometimes forms new channels, so that there is no certainty of their being long in one position. It is also affirmed, that the channel is seldom deep enough till after the river has been raised by continued rains, and that, in the dry season, vessels may be detained for months, for want of sufficient water."

The old hydrographer, Pimental, gives the following description of the coast between Point Toiro and Aracati, viz.-" Off Ponto das Pedras (Point Irmaos of the modern charts) there are three shoals of rocks, having a channel between them and the main, of 3 and 4 fathoms; at 3 leagues outward are reefs above water (the Lavandeira on the chart.) Off the River Guamara (Aguamarea) to the S.W. the distinguishing marks are two inland sugar-loaf mountains, of unequal heights. To the west is Point Tubarao, then follow the Rivers Amargosa, Cavallos, and Conchas. The coast hence trends N.W. to the Ponto do Mel, or Honey Point, which may be known by its high red eliffs At the River Upanema (Mossocro on the chart) the land is very level; and on the west of the river there are, as far as a field-piece can carry, red cliffs. Within the land is Monte Vermelhos, (Mount Tibao) a sugar-loaf hill. Ships, however, should not advance into the bay, as it is full of shallows.

From the River Upanema, to the N.W., the next river of any consequence is Jaguaripe, which may be known by a round bare hill of sand, on the N.W., terminating in a rock below, and within land a mountain, having seven sugar-loaf points. Five leagues inland from the Jaguaripe rises the range of the Gumame Mountains, which extend to 10 leagues east and west, commencing at about 3 leagues from the River Jaguaripe; the land for nearly 4 leagues, close to the sea, appears dark and full, with several openings close to the bays. At about half a league from the commencement of these openings are some white cliffs, in shape like a schooner, with all sails set, and head at east. So soon as this full land terminates, the coast assumes a more flat and level appearance."

From the mouth of the Jaguaripe to Point Macoripe, on the east of Ciara, the coast trends N.W. true, and the distance is 20 leagues; it is all bordered by a reef. The Bay of Iguape, as described by Pimental, is about 5 leagues to the south-eastward of Ciara, which now appears to have a village on it, and forms a small harbour to the westward of some low level land. The bay is surrounded by some very steep cliffs, against which the sea breaks violently; here is a high and round rock, behind which is good and sheltered anchorage, in 2, 2, and 3 fathoms; and to the N.W. of it, you may anchor in the roll of the sea, having 4, 5, and 6 fathoms; there are also several pits made on the sand, where water may be obtained with ease and in plenty.

CIARA. The bay on which this town stands, is formed by Point Macoripe to the eastward, and by the River Papina to the westward, an extent of about 3 leagues. It is extremely open, its greatest depth being 3 miles. Before the town, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, extends a ridge of rocks, within which small craft generally anchor, the entrance to the anchorage being round the eastern end of the reef. Point Macoripe* has a battery and tower near the extremity, and is itself a high and irregular sand-hill,

• On this point a fixed light is shown, at a height of 37 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles.

terminating in a point. The recife, or reef, forms a complete ridge, at a considerable distance from the shore, and it is to be seen at low water. It extends parallel with the shore for about one quarter of a mile, with two openings, one above, and the other below the town; a small vessel may come to an anchor between it and the shore, but a ship can bring up only in one of the openings of the ridge, or on the outside of it. A vessel coming in from the northward should make Point Macoripe, which is 24 miles to the eastward of the town, and may thence bring up in 6 or 5 fathoms. On the appearance of a ship, the town fort displays, or did display, a white flag upon a flagstaff.

To the northward of Ciara, about a mile from shore, is the Pedra da Velha, or Old Woman's Rock, known even at high water by the breakers over it; within this, at half the distance, is another, named Lobvendo, and next, that portion of the recife, or reef, within which and the beach small vessels may anchor. Eastward of the latter are three other rocky patches, of which the last is three-quarters of a mile to the west of Point Macoripe; and between this and the point is anchorage under the latter, in 5 fathoms. The inner anchorage, above-mentioned, is between the recife, or reef, and the shore. You enter by the eastern channel, and go out by the western, when you cannot fetch out by the eastern one. Here a vessel lies, at low water, surrounded by breakers, except in the channels, and, as the pilots are very inattentive, it is altogether very dangerous.

Baron Roussin says, "Ciara anchorage cannot be considered as a harbour, being exposed to all winds between N.W. and E., which are frequent hereabout; but the ground is excellent for holding, from three miles off the land to the reef, which includes the inner roadstead. In the outer roadstead, at from one to three miles from land, are from 6 to 10 fathoms of water, bottom of soft sand-stone, covered with sandy ooze, and in which the anchor holds well. The coasters enter the inner road by two passes, formed in the reef, at 200 fathoms asunder, the depth in these passes is about 13 feet at high water.

DIRECTIONS FOR CIARA, BY CAPTAIN THE HON. W. WELLESLEY, R.N.— "Ciara cannot be called a port, nor in any but a tropical climate would it be thought a secure roadstead. I believe it to be perfectly safe, particularly from December to May; and we have the precedent of several large ships, namely, the American frigate Constitution, during the war, and soon after, the Inconstant and Isis, English frigates, having laid there with impunity.

When bound for Ciara, run down in the latitude of Point Macoripe, to which give a good berth, until the castle bears S.W., then run down direct for it, until Macoripe bears E.S.E.; do not go any further in, until a pilot comes off, which will be in a catamaran. There are four high mountains, about 5 leagues to the S.W. of the town, which may be seen when 9 and 10 leagues in the offing, by which the port of Ciara is easily distinguished.

Point Macoripe is a sandy bluff, terminating abruptly enough at the sea. If you know your longitude nearly, it cannot well be mistaken, and the land on this part of the coast is tolerably high. Running in towards it, you will discover a reef breaking off, and inside of it, a good berth will open the town, and see the steeple, &c.

From 11 and 10 fathoms (standing in for the town) you will shoal your water to 7 and 6, when you may anchor or heave-to, and wait for the pilot, should he be coming off. If there are any merchant-vessels lading, they will be well to the westward, protected in a small degree by a reef of rocks.

The landing is very difficult and uncertain. It can only be effected from

half-tide to half-tide, and then by the help of the town's people, who, with their negroes, are in attendance, to carry you out of the boat in a chair. This is owing to a reef of rocks (round either end of which is the boat-passage in) that lies in a direction parallel with the beach, and about 300 yards from it: these begin to appear at half-ebb, and then make a kind of breakwater until half-flood, when the water dashing over them, creates a surf, in which it is impossible for a boat to live. The pilotage charged for the Sapphire was eight Spanish dollars.

From this place I steered a N.W. W. and N.W. course, along the land, at not more than 4 miles distance, in from 13 to 11 fathoms, until I came to the village of Curu, a distance of about 30 miles; when I got abreast of it, the decrease of soundings to 9 and 7 fathoms warned me to haul off. There is a heavy breaking shoal running off the point on which the village stands; and in any case any one not knowing his longitude should make it, it may not be amiss to state, that we saw catamarans, with their sails hoisted to dry on the beach, which had exactly the appearance of large boats sailing upon a river, until the regularity of their distance, and a nearer approach dispelled the illusion. Hauling out for Curu, the water did not deepen for a considerable time. I made Curu to be in latitude 3° 28′ S., longitude 39° 0′ W."

From Point Macoripe the coast trends N. 56° W., true, to Mount Melancia, a distance of nearly 19 leagues. This mount, so named, is an insulated sand-hill, near the coast; all this coast is sterile and desert in the part next the sea, and shews no trace of culture nor inhabitants. The coast is clean, and at two or three miles from it are found 6 to 13 fathoms of water, with fine grey sand. From Mount Melancia the coast trends N. 64° W., true, 11 leagues, to the village of Almufedas; then N. 69° W., 5 leagues, to Point Topagi. The village of Almufedas, standing within the sand-down on the shore, is situated on the border of a small river, Aracati Miram, navigable by coasters. From the offing its steeple may be seen among a group cocoa-trees. This village s rves to indicate the commencement of the bank, which extends thence nearly to the little hamlet of Jericoacoara, situate about 40 miles more to the westward.

of

Captain Wellesley says, If the land be fallen in with so far to the eastward as Ciara, it will be higher than any to the westward, and the magnificent mountains, some leagues inland, (the only fine feature on the northern coast of Brazil) will be seen. Point Macoripe, which forms the entrance of Ciara, may be known by its being a sandy bluff, terminating rather suddenly. But, upon whatever part you advance, it is just clearly discerned off the deck, that is, if your object be to make a free passage.

If you come upon it towards the evening, and have run sufficiently near to make it out, as has just been said, N.W. by W. W. will not be more than a safe course to haul off on for the night; or you may stand off to 22 fathoms, in about 2° S., and into 17 fathoms. It is seldom, under any circumstances, that vessels find themselves farther off the land than they expected in the morning.

I was in less water than 10 fathoms the whole of the first night I was on the coast, but I would not willingly go so near again, being sensible not so much of the danger, as of the inutility of such a close approach."

Off Mount Melancia, a bank commences, which extends to the River Iguarassu, a distance of 45 leagues. This bank, which is named Praal de Caracu, extends outward about 34 leagues from the shore, and is circumscribed by the depth of 6 fathoms. Upon the bank, off Almufedas, there are 44 fathoms, distant 5 miles from the shore, and at 9 miles north from Point Tapaji are 6