Paul da Serra, which is fertile, and used especially for breeding mules and horses. The eastern portion of the island, although high and containing many lofty peaks, is not so elevated at the western.

The Curral is one of the greatest curiosities of Madeira, and to the lovers of natural scenery it is well worth the trouble of a visit. It is an immense valley, of almost fathomless depth, enclosed on all sides by a range of magnificent mountain precipices 1000 feet high, the sides of which are perpendicular and broken into every variety of buttress or pinnacle. Round a part

of the cliffs is a narrow road, leading to the garden houses and country plantations, cut out of the rock, about 10 or 12 feet wide, on riding along which the Curral seems like an immense abyss, filled only with clouds and vapours, rolling in a constant motion over each other. When viewed on a fine day, the variety of tints is very striking. Occasionally the cliffs are black and craggy, at other times they are covered with turf of the richest green and trees indigenous to the island; while far below smiles a region of cultivation and fruitfulness, the white cabins of the islanders scattered over the surface of the country being almost hidden amongst the rich gardens and orchards. In 1838, the Curral was visited by Com. Wilkes, of the United States Navy, who remarks:-"This is a very remarkable spot, and it is difficult, if not impossible, to give an idea of its beauty and grandeur. This place is approached by the usual ascent from Funchal, through the narrow roads, or paths hedged with roses, &c., the view gradually extending beneath, over the terraced vineyards. Just before reaching it, you mount a small ascent; you are then on the summit or edge of the Curral, and the whole scene suddenly bursts upon you. The eye descends to the depth of 2000 feet, into the immense chasm below, and wanders over the ragged and broken outline of the many peaks that rise from its very bottom; then upwards, following the grey precipitous rocks, till their summits are lost in the clouds, which are passing fitfully across it, occasionally permitting the sunbeams to glance to its very bottom. One feels surprised on gazing on this scene, that its character of wildness should become softened, and its beauty increased, which is effected in part by the plants and shrubs which cling or have fastened themselves into the fissures of the rocks. These the eye gradually makes out, and is led by the small and narrow strips of green on the ledges downwards, until it finally rests on the secluded church of Nostra Senora de Livre Monte, and the peasants' cabin embedded in the dark and luxuriant foliage beneath, whose peace and quietness are in such strong contrast with the wildness of nature above. The whole looks more like enchantment than reality. The shape of the Curral and its perpendicular sides gives the idea rather of a gorge than of a crater.

In the descent the road winds along the sides of the precipice, turning around sharp and jutting projections, with a frightful gulf yawning below. A misstep of the horse would plunge the rider to destruction. At every turn new and striking views are brought out, almost surpassing in grandeur the first. The descent is so gradual, that one scarcely seems to advance downwards, and the length of time necessary to accomplish it (upwards of an hour) will give some idea of the vastness and grandeur of the scene. Continuing on, the gorge opens to the south, where the streamlet of the Curral, joined by several lateral branches, forms the River Socorridos, which empties itself into the sea at the ancient town of Camera de Lobos."

The shores of Madeira are mostly lofty cliffs, occasionally facing the water with a perpendicular front of 1000 or 2000 feet in height. The cliffs are interrupted by a few small bays, where a richly cultivated valley approaches the water between abrupt precipices, or surrounded by an amphitheatre of

rugged hills. In these small bays are generally situated some villages. Off the eastern cape of the island are many isolated rocks, having bold abrupt sides and broken outlines. The character of these rocks is remarkable; they stand quite detached from the adjoining cliffs, and some of them are of a slender form rising to a great height, with extremely rugged surfaces, and broken edges. Through some, the waters have worn arched ways of large dimensions, which afford a passage for the breaking surf, and would seem ere long to threaten their destruction. Similar needle rocks are seen off the northern Deserta, one of which, bearing some resemblance to a vessel when viewed from a distance is often mistaken for such. It stands like a slender broken column, several hundred feet in height, on a base scarcely larger than the summit.

In no part of Madeira is there a sheltered harbour; and the word 'Porto,' which is attached to several places on the chart, must be taken as the designation given by the islanders to the little coves, or landing-places, where they haul up their fishing-boats, and those of larger construction, employed in the transport of their wines to Funchal, or on other coasting business of the island.

It may be stated generally, that the south coast of the island has a gradual slope from the mountains in the interior to the sea; and that the north and west coasts, on the contrary, are, with few exceptions, high and bold, and descend precipitously.

The cultivation of the island, on its south side, seldom extends more than from 2 to 2 miles inland; and, on its north side, not half that distance; and it may be remarked, that no cultivation is at present attempted at elevations exceeding 3000 feet, the whole of the mountains above that height, and which constitute so large a portion of the island, being left wild and uninhabited.

Funchal The capital of the island is Funchal on the south-east coast, which consists of a pretty wide street along the sea-shore, where there are several good buildings, and numerous small lanes extending to a considerable distance up the slope of the hill. The number of houses amounts to about 2000, and that of the inhabitants to 20,000. The town is defended by four forts, and has eight churches and several convents. In the midst of the town is an open square, planted with exotic trees, as dracœna draco, jasminum azoricum, and datura arbosea.

The view of Funchal from the harbour is very pleasing, and its situation, in a kind of amphitheatre formed by the mountains, adds to its beauty. The contrast of the white buildings and villas with the green mountains, forms a picture which is much heightened by the bold quadrangular Loo Rock with its embattled summit commanding the harbour in the foreground. The most conspicuous objects on the west side of the bay are the Peak of Ponta da Cruz, the Partinha with the Loo Rock near it, and the old fortress of the Pico, on a rocky eminence half a mile north of them. To the eastward of these are, the Castle of Lourenzo the official residence of the governor on the beach, and the outlet of San Paulo River, the square towers of the exJesuits' College, the cathedral having a small triangular spire, Bangor's Pillar on the beach near the custom-house, and on the extreme east the Castle of Santiago with the quintas upon the sloping land behind it. All these buildings are very conspicuous, and of dazzling whiteness.

When approaching Funchal the island appears rough and mountainous, but the steeps are clothed with rich and luxuriant verdure. Terraces are visible on every side, and every spot that the ingenuity of man can make available has been apparently turned to advantage, and is diligently cultiva

ted. These spots form an interesting scene, particularly when contrasted with the broken and wild background, with the white cottages clustered on the sea shore, and gradually extending themselves upwards until the eye rests on the highest and most striking building, that of the convent of Nostre Senora de Monte. This stands out conspicuously on one of the mountain ridges, which descends from the Peak of Arrebentao towards the city. It is 1965 feet above the sea, while the peak itself is 3844 feet high.

The gardens in the vicinity of Funchal are exceedingly beautiful, abounding as they do in trees, shrubs, and flowers, and so many varieties of delicious fruits and vegetables common to the tropics and to Europe. The markets are, in consequence, well supplied with these good things, and all necessary refreshments; and there is an ample supply of excellent water.

It may be observed that a depôt for steam-vessels has lately been established at Funchal (1848). Its situation is near the beach, at a short distance from the custom-house.

THE COASTS.-When approaching Madeira from the eastward the first land met with is the Ilheo de Fora, an islet lying close to Ponta de San Lourenço, the eastern extremity of the island. This islet is two-fifths of a mile from N.E. to S.W., and exceeds a little one-tenth of a mile in breadth.. Its coasts are everywhere rocky cliffs, except at its S.E. side, where it slopes to the sea, and offers the easiest landing. On the west side is a little rocky cove. A sugar-loaf rock marks its south extremity, and there are four low rocks to its S.E. shore, nearly midway between its extreme points. The surface of the islet is of very uneven outline, and covered with a light and stony soil and sand. Near its north end is a peak, 352 feet above the sea, in lat. 32° 43′ 14′′ N., and long. 16° 39' 30" W. The channel which separates the island from San Lourenço Point is 200 yards wide, and the depth in it at low water is from 3 to 4 fathoms over a very rocky bottom; but a swell or strong breeze with opposing tide occasions so great a turmoil in it, that it is frequently unsafe for boats to pass through.

Fora is steep-to in all directions, except its S.E. side, off which are dangerous rocky patches surrounded by deep water. The outer one, which lies S. 43° E. 0' 38-100ths of a mile from the Islet Peak, is a small rock with 4 fathoms on it, and 13 and 26 fathoms close to it. The inner patch is more extensive, bearing from the peak S. 34° E., three-tenths of a mile; and upon this are several rocks, some with 15, other with only 4 feet over them. Between the outer and inner patches the least water is 10 fathoms, and between the inner patch and the islet is a narrow channel, the depth of which ranges from 9 to 16 fathoms. Both patches have deep water close up to them, from 15 to 25 fathoms; their distance from the shore is so inconsiderable that

sailing vessels would scarcely venture near them; but steam vessels should be cautious not to round the point too closely.*

At Fora the extreme land seen to the westward is the low point of Oliveira, bearing S. 58° 36′ W., distant 10.46 miles; but the bold head of Cabo Garajao, or Brazen Head, being much higher than Ponta Oliveira, is seen over it, and thus appears to be the west extreme point. Vessels bound for Funchal shape their course for these points; but between Fora and Oliveira there is a considerable bay, and the coast presents a variety of outline which it is necessary to describe.

Ponta de San Lourenzo is the easternmost part of Madeira. It is a long narrow ledge of rock, about 4 miles in length, but in no part one in breadth. Its surface is exceedingly varied, but its general tendency is that of declivity from the cliffs and peaks on the north side, to a low rocky shore on the south. The cliffs and peaks, though lofty, are not nearly of so great elevation as those of the island in general, but are of a much more broken and fantastic character. Here and there a patch of herbage only affords scanty pasture to

a few sheep and goats.

From the extremity of Ponta de San Lourenço the coast trends to the N.W., and is a rocky shore. For the first 1 mile it is composed of cliffs and small points with rocks lying out a few yards from them; and above the cliffs is a narrow ridge of hills, of which the most elevated is 348 feet above the sea. A narrow beach of shingle then succeeds, with masses of rock upon it, running out to the N.E.. Between these, in two or three places, the seas on the north and south sides of the point meet at high water, and make them islets; and it is probable, that in a few years more, they will be actually broken up, and become such permanently. This beach terminates at Ponta Furada, a bold basaltic point, through which the sea occasioned by S.E. gales has broken a fine lofty arch. A barren hill 550 feet high stands immediately above the point, and from its summit there is a commanding view of the surrounding shores.

On the west of Ponta Furada is a small bay with a fine sandy bottom, in which there is smooth water anchorage with the wind from N.W. and N.E., and tolerably easy landing. The bay is about a mile across, and three-fifths of a mile deep; but it is only available for steam-vessels. Half a mile beyond the western point of it is the Ponta de Piedade crowned by a rocky hill, 376 feet above the sea, with a chapel on it, dedicated to Nostra Seniora de Piedade. The building, though small, is a very conspicuous object, being white-washed, and roofed with bright red tiles. This chapel in line with the Sugar-loaf Rock at the south point of Fora leads a few yards clear to the southward of the rocky shoals off that islet. In front of the point is a large flat ledge of rock (having almost the appearance of a fine artificial quay), on which there was found sufficient landing.

From the north side of Piedade Hill, quite across the narrow neck of land to the opposite, or N.E. coast, occur those curious fields of fossils mentioned by several travellers who have visited Madeira, and which are similar to those at Porto Santo. It is believed they are not to be found in any other parts of these islands. Immediately on the west of Piedade Point is a little bay with a fine sandy beach.

At 1.3 mile S. 74° W. from Piedade Point is the village and point of Caniçal. The coast between them is much lower than that previously described;

* In this description of the shores of Madeira, which has been taken principally from Captain Vidal's valuable communication in the Nautical Magazine 1848, the bearings are not magnetic, but have reference to the true meridian.

R

but broken in like manner into numerous small points, and the land rises from it in a gradual slope to the top of the cliffs on the north shore. There is a little sandy beach east of Caniçal Point, on which the fishing-boats of the place are left. At the west end of the beach is a ledge of dry rocks. The bank of soundings follows the coast to the westward: the edge of it passing one mile south of Fora, Piedade, and Caniçal.

From Caniçal Point the coast runs S. 43° W., 1.45 mile to the north point of Machico Bay. Between them the cliffs are high and bold, and there are two projecting points. The southern one is a rocky bluff very steep-to; and half a mile inland of it is a peak 1969 feet above the sea.

North of Machico Point is a telegraph on a hill 1080 feet high.

One-tenth

of a mile to the N.E. of the point are several rocks which run out from the shore S. 22° E., about 250 yards; and in the same direction is an isolated breaking rock standing in 15 fathoms water. At the rock, Machico north point bears N. 48° W., and is distant two-tenths of a mile. Close to it on the east are 27 fathoms.

BAY OF MACHICO.-The Bay of Machico is 700 yards wide, and a stony beach with some little mixture of sand forms its shore. On the north point of it is a small stone fort, and near its centre is a little battery built at the outlet of a mountain stream, which originates in the high lands of the interior five or six miles distant, and drains the whole valley of Machico. The village is situated near the shore of the bay, and is celebrated in the traditions of the island as the place where its first discoverer Robert Machim landed with Anna d'Arfet. Its little church is reputed to contain a portion of the cedar cross that marked their grave. The village possesses a considerable number of fishing-boats, and a few of larger dimensions for trade with Funchal. From Machico the coast runs S.S.E., half a mile, to Ponta Queimada, which is a rocky cliff with some flat rocks at its base, and from thence S. 32° W., 1 mile 15.100ths to the rock off Ponta de Santa Catarina. This rock is 36 feet high, and stands close to the point. The whole coast between it and Queimada is rocky cliffs and both they and the land behind them are of much less elevation than near Queimada. There are no outlying dangers, but deep water close up to the shore.

From Rocha de Santa Catarina, the next point is Guindante bearing S. 43° W., 2 miles, the coast between falls back into a bay half a mile in depth. Near the north end of it is the village of Santa Cruz, and two large water courses or ribeiras. In front of the village is a stoney beach with a rocky point at each end of it, crowned with a redoubt, and the water shoals gradually to the beach. Eastward of Santa Cruz, the coast and land is rather low. the southward of the village the cliffs again increase in height, and have deep water quite up to them.

To

S. 40° W., nearly a mile, from Ponta Guindante is Ponta de Atalaya. The village of Porto Novo is situated close round Guindante in a small shingle bay where a considerable ribeira has its outlet.

From the ribeira to Atalaya Point, the cliffs are high and steep. The Point of Atalaya is itself formed by a few large stones at the base of the cliffs, but there is a singular small pointed peak on the cliff close to it which marks its position well. From this point Ponta Oliveira bears S. 51° W., 1 mile. Between them the coast has a slight bend in it; there are two small beaches; and in front of the first one, named Portinha, are some detached flat rocks; behind which some fishing-boats are hauled up a small redoubt commands it. At the south side of the second beach is a very large ribeira; and on the top of its southern bank, a short distance from the edge of the cliff, a fort.