of Punta Frayle, and within it, on the S.W., is Palomas, or Pigeon Island, distant about three-quarters of a mile from the watch-tower of Point Carnero. The island is low and rugged; off its N.W. part are the two Cabrita Islands, and one and a half cable's length farther west, is a cluster of small rocks, some above and others under water.

The Pearl Rock lies about one and a half mile to the southward of Palomas Island; it has not more than 9 or 10 feet water on its shoalest part, but at two ships' length from it, it is surrounded by 7 to 9 fathoms. The mark for the shoalest part is Pigeon or Palomas Island, in one with the third rising from Carnero Point; a peaked rock off the same point in one with a hill like a sugar loaf, with a small saddle on the top of it, which stands to the eastward of St. Roque; and the tower on Point Frayle W.N.W. The channel between this rock and Palomas Island may be used with a leading wind, taking care to give the island a berth of 14 cable's length: in this passage are 7, 8, and 9 fathoms water. In coming from the westward, you will have passed the Pearl, when you perceive the Town of St. Roque (which is readily known, being seated on the top of a small hill) over the rocks of Carnero Point, or when that point bears N. by E. you may run in for the Bay of Gibraltar, giving the port land a good berth, until you open the Devil's Tower, towards which you may steer and anchor in any depth from 20 to 5 fathoms.

NOTE. In going through the Straits of Gibraltar, masters of vessels cannot be too careful to keep clear of the two dangerous sunken rocks Cabezos, described, page 110, also of the Pearl Rock; several vessels having been lately lost upon them.

BAY OF GIBRALTAR.-At two milés, N. by E. E., from Cabrita Point, which may be considered the western boundary of the Bay of Gibraltar, are the broad Point and Tower of St. Garcia; the Bay or Cove of Getares lies between, having deep water and good ground, except towards the rocky points, but it is entirely open to easterly winds, which send in a heavy swell. Some rivulets are at the bottom of this bay, with a considerable quantity of water in winter time.

The coast from hence to the northward presents numerous rocks, surrounded by which is the Island of Algeciras, named also Verde, or Green Island, being moderately high and well fortified; this island, and the channel between it and the land, is exceedingly dangerous, and only fit for small craft. The Mole of Algeciras is distant about half a mile from Green Island, to the southward of which is the River Miel, into which small vessels go at high water. Half a cable's length east from the Mole is the Galera Rock, which lies even with the water's edge, and has a reef on its N.E. side. Another shoal and some rocks lie also off the town.

Algeciras was formerly a port of some importance, but has latterly been on the decline: a fort named St. Antonio stands on the north end of the town, and three-quarters of a mile from that is the Tower of Almiranta, situate on a point of moderate height, surrounded with rocks.

At about 2 miles to the northward of Green Island is the bar of the River Palmonies, resorted to in winter by the trading vessels of Algeciras. Punta Mala on the east side of the bay, opposite Palmonies River, is rather elevated, having a castle erected upon it, and situate about 1 mile north-westward of Fort St. Philip, which stands at the west end of the Spanish lines; a ledge of rocks extends to the S.W. two cables' length from Punta Mala, some of which are above water. N. by E. nearly from Point Mala Castle, distant about three-tenths of a mile, is the Hospital de la Sangre.

GIBRALTAR.-The Spanish lines extend across the peninsula, and terminate

at Fort St. Barbara; the land is low and flat all the way to the rock of Gibraltar, where it suddenly rises to a great height, its top being uneven, with several eminences thereon, and extending southerly until it slopes down to Europa Point, the eastern point or boundary of the Straits of Gibraltar. The Rock of Gibraltar, is cut down on the eastern side perpendicularly, but on the west side is a kind of plain, where the town is built. From the north end of the town the Old Mole extends in a N.W. by N. direction, 1,000 feet; the New Mole, at a mile and a half to the southward, extends 700 feet to the N.N.W., forming an elbow where even ships of war may ride in 5 and 6 fathoms.

Upon Europa Point a lighthouse is erected, exhibiting a fixed light, at an elevation of about 150 feet, visible 15 miles. On the 25th of April, 1843, an additional section of the range of light was opened, which renders it visible from Sandy Bay, on the Algeciras coast, to the mouth of the River Palmonies. On the western side of Gibraltar Bay, a vessel may come to an anchor at half a mile from Cabrita Point, in from 18 to 27 fathoms, fine gravel and sand, or from thence out to 38 fathoms, good holding-ground. The same depths will be found towards St. Garcia, but here the ground is not so good. The best and most secure anchorage, however, is from the centre of the Town of Algeciras, towards the River Palmones, and over towards the bridge of Mayorga; the limit commences when you have passed the line on which Cabrita Point appears in one with Apès Hill in Africa, and Galera Rock in one with the south end of Algeciras. The best station is to the northward towards the Palmones, or more to the eastward at half a mile from the shore. It is requisite to sound ere you drop your anchor, as the water may be too deep.

Vessels may also ride all the way from the Bridge of Mayorga towards St. Philip's Castle (keeping off from Mala Point), but between the Castle and Old Mole the anchorage is to be preferred, as there is less depth of water; this is the usual anchorage of English vessels, the smaller ones lying near the Mole, and the larger farther out. Also in the space between the Old and New Mole, vessels likewise anchor in any depth they please, keeping not less than half a mile off, as there are rocks along shore, nor farther off unless you get into too deep water. Vessels may also ride between the New Mole and Europa Point, keeping half a mile from shore, but the water becomes somewhat deeper. A pinnacle rock is said to be 300 yards to the north-eastward of Europa Point; it is of small dimensions, but there is sufficient water for a man-of-war to pass between it and the shore.

TIDES.-In Gibraltar Bay the tides rise 5 and 6 feet; it is high water, full and change, at 10h.

SECTION II.

THE COAST OF AFRICA.

CAPE SPARTEL TO THE EQUATOR.

Along the north-western shore of Africa there are but few places capable of affording shelter for ships, the whole coast being open and exposed. The soundings in general extend 20 miles from the land, at which distance are 80 to 100 fathoms, and are immediately succeeded by deep water.

CAPE SPARTEL, the north-western point of Africa, is so high as to be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 40 to 50 miles, and appears, when first seen, like an island, but a nearer approach brings into view several small hummocks on its western ridge. The high land is said to resemble the awning of a galley. The ground about the cape is quite clear, with the exception of some high rocks, which are steep-to. At the distance of 2 miles from the shore are 98 fathoms, the bank immediately dropping to an unfathomable depth. To the southward of the cape, the bank extends much farther off, and there is excellent anchorage on a bottom of mud and sand, with shelter from easterly winds.

Tangier Bay. Although this bay is not on the western coast of Africa, but on the northern, within the Strait of Gibraltar; yet, as ships occasionally run into it for shelter and provisions, a short description may not be unacceptable. It is distant about 5 miles to the eastward of Cape Spartel, the coast between being high and clean, with the exception of the rocks close to the shore. In it there is convenient anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, but caution is required to avoid the Zandovin Ledge, a rocky shoal on the eastern side of the bay, bearing S.E. by E. E from Tangier Point, and S.W. by W. W. from Cape Malabata; the latter cape at the same time being nearly in a line with Europa Point. Gibraltar leads clear of it, so that it will be proper to anchor with Gibraltar open of the cape. Moor to the N.W. and S.E. with the longest cable to the N.W. Implicit obedience should here be observed to the advice given by the consul, in your intercourse with the natives. About three-quarters of a mile distant, N. by W. W., from Cape Malabata is the Almirante, a rock of 3 fathoms; and there is also a sunken rock about the same distance from Tangier Point, which lies with the inner coast of Tangier S. by W. (S. by E.)

From Cape Spartel, the direction of the coast is S.W. for 20 miles to Arzila, a small fortified town, situated close to the shore, between which and Cape Spartel there is good anchorage all along the shore, with an easterly wind. The depths of water are regular, as you will have from 10 to 15 fathoms, from 1 to 2 miles off shore, on a sandy bottom: the coast line is a flat sandy and shingly beach, rising to a fine grazing country in the interior. Near Cape Spartel is the road of Jeremias, which extends from it 8 or 10 miles to the S.W.

In 1838 H.M.S. Dido anchored near Arzila, in smooth water, and well sheltered from a strong Levanter in the following positions:-1st anchorage, in 15 fathoms, sand and shells-Cape Spartel. N.EN.; Town of Arzila, S. by W. W.; and extremity of land to the right, two points nearly in a line, S.W. by S From this anchorage to the nearest shore was about 14 mile; soundings very regular to a depth of 5 fathoms, which was two cables' length from the shore. 2nd anchorage, in 13 fathoms, coral rock, gravel, and sand-Cape Spartel, N.E. N.; centre of the Town of Arzila, S. † E.; and two bold and prominent points to the S.W. of the town, nearly in a line, S.S.W. W.

Nearly midway between Cape Spartel and Arzila is the village of Almadrones, near to which a landing may be effected.* At 4 or 5 miles to the

It would appear from the following that there cannot be too much caution in landing here:"One of our boats (H.M.S. Dido, March, 1838), sounding in this vicinity, landed, and on two officers and two seamen, part of the boat's crew, walking not more than a hundred yards from the beach, in hopes of procuring stock, (numerous heads of cattle grazing in the vicinity) they were immediately seized by a party of Moors; three were detained and conveyed into the country, the fourth person having effected his escape. The ship, then lying at her first anchorage, was soon under way and run down off Arzila, demanding from the governor the officer and men detained. A party of Moorish horsemen were now sent to scour the country, who found them on their road to Tangier under a guard,

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N.E. of Arzila is a small river, named the Wad el Ayasha, which is barred across the entrance, but flows sufficiently strong to afford a good supply of water; it is convenient also, as the distance to roll the casks (the boat being anchored clear of surf) is not above 50 yards.

From Arzila the coast trends S.W. W., and is easily distinguished by a remarkable white cliff which is seen nearly 15 miles off; but the best mark for the coast is the Jebel Sarsar, an insulated mountain resembling a sugarloaf, which stands S. by E. E. from the entrance of El Araish. The Town of El Araish stands on the river El Khos, and will be known, when approaching it, by a large castle and batteries. between the South and S.S.E. The mouth of the river, which appears very The best anchorage is with the town broad, is really very narrow at low water, and has then only 5 and 6 feet water over it, but there is a rise and fall of 9 to 12 feet. Inside, the water deepens to 24 feet. A pap or rising spot, on the north side of the river, is 200 feet high above the sea. intending to enter the river, is with the distant conical mountain Jebel Sarsar, The best anchorage in the roads, for vessels appearing in the centre of the entrance, one mile from the point, in 12 fathoms sand. Supplies are abundant, and there is a fine spring of water on the northern shore, very convenient for shipping.

which

Between Arzila and El Araish, the ground is tolerably clean, but not very good, being coarse gravel, with 25 and 30 fathoms of water, at from 1 to 3 miles from shore. Before El Araish the depth decreases, and there are only 4 fathoms at 2 cables' length from shore. must not advance too near, unless it be with a strong easterly wind, for often, In sailing along this coast, you in calm weather, there is a heavy swell from the West or N.W., render it difficult to get off shore. The Jebel Sarsar, or Peak of Fas, above-mentioned, serves as a mark for may the old town of Mamora, from which it bears nearly true East. Old Mamora, known by several white-washed tombs, the chief of which is The site of that of Moulai. Abow Salloum, is situated at the outlet of a stream, which is said to flow from a small lake, 20 miles to the southward of El Araish. At 2 cables' length from the bar is a depth of 5 fathoms, gradually increasing to 34 fathoms, at 2 miles from shore. The coast between El Araish and this spot is straight, and for the most part upwards of 250 feet in height; reddish cliffs for the first 10 miles, then sand-hills, partly covered with brushwood. There are everywhere from 20 to 25 fathoms of water, at half a league from shore, and you may anchor off the coast as far to the southward as Sla, or Salee. Ships sometimes anchor here, during a calm, to avoid being drifted by the currents, which set to the southward, along the coast; and the velocity of which, especially at the full and change of the moon, is frequently from 1 to 2 miles an hour.

on this they were escorted back to Arzila, but were refused to be delivered up until permission was granted by the Governor of Tangier. The delays were so protracted that we anchored (to make a serious demonstration) off the town, in 44 fathoms water, at about 600 yards distant from the shore, and 150 yards outside a reef of rocks, awash, which describe a semicirle without the beach line, (affording a good shelter under its lee) the principal fortress bearing S. W. The next day we received our people, by permission of the authorities of Tangier, and started from their inhospitable shore.

To account for the foregoing proceedings, it appears, by a treaty, that trading is forbidden at any port on the Moorish coast, at which there is not a British consul, or his agent. Spanish Jew, in the latter capacity, who behaved uncommonly well on this occasion. Now as we landed only 5 miles from an authorised port, it appears they carried this article of the treaty to its At Arzila there is a fullest extent. In fact it is generally attended with fatal consequences for a Frank to land on an unauthorised part, on any pretence, whether from distress, or a want of knowledge of their customs. As a proof of the general ignorance of this custom, we had on board, at the time of the above incident, five merchant captains, who had been in the habit of trading to the S.W. ports of Marocco, who knew not that landing was against their laws; and it is only to be regretted that our consuls in Marocco do not give more general information on so serious a point."

From hence, the coast extends 10 leagues, S.S.W., to Mehediyah. The coast is very clear, and readily known, being of white sand, as far as about the middle of its declivity, while the upper part appears like cliffs. The river Sebou, on the south bank of which the town is situated, is impassable, except in boats, or on rafts, at some distance from the sea, although navigable near the ocean. Here vessels may anchor half a league from shore, in 12 or 14 fathoms, sandy ground, with the town bearing from S.E. by E. to S.E. by S. All along this coast the swell is sometimes excessive on the shore, which, with the S.W. winds, renders it very dangerous.

Between Mehediyah and Sla, or Salee, the coast is rather low, and may readily be known by its white sandy strand. About half-way, the strand rises, and thence, southward, the shore consists of black and steep rugged rocks, with small hills. Sla, with the Town of Rabat, is situated on the river Abou Rakrak; the latter town is rendered remarkable by the high tower of Beni Hassan, which may be discerned, in fine weather, 20 miles off. It is built of hewn stone, is 180 feet in height, and 35 or 36 feet broad. At a small distance to the northward of it, are the ruins of an ancient wall, on which were formerly a battery and castle. There is a bar across the river, rendering it only navigable for small vessels; but it is said that there is good anchorage between the mosque and the tower, for ships of every burthen, which, however, can only be considered safe from March to the latter end of August. Many anchors have here been lost, so that attention must be paid to the cables.

At about 7 miles to the W.S.W. of Rabat is the Massa Tower, similar in appearance to those frequently met with on the coast of Spain, and which was in former times, without doubt, of great service to the Sla pirates when making the land. Nearly 27 miles beyond this is the small peninsula of Fedalah, which is sometimes mistaken for an island; it affords indifferent shelter to small vessels during westerly winds. A roadstead here is supposed to be the only one, with the exception of Agadir, in the parallel of 30° 27', wherein ships on the coast may ride in security during winter. This is owing to a projection of the land, south of the peninsula above-mentioned tween Rabat and Point Fedalah, there is no danger beyond a quarter of a mile from shore; and the bank of soundings extends to the distance of 20 to 22 miles from the land, increasing south-westward. About one league from the shore, there is a depth of 20 to 30 fathoms, rocky ground; it then becomes sandy, increasing to 60 and 100 fathoms.

Be

At 4 leagues W. by S. from Fedalah, is Dar-el-Beida, a small walled town on the beach, within a point projecting half a mile N.N.E., true, and forming a cove, three-quarters of a mile deep, and well sheltered from westerly winds. This place is easily known by its towers, one of which seems almost as high as Hassan's Tower, at Sla. The coast between is low, and bordered with small islets, all very near the land. A reef of rocks lies at one-third of a mile off the town, and the landing-place is behind them. Some other parts of the bottom are likewise rocky, and in winter the anchorage is unsafe, owing to the current, &c. From the cape, rocks extend to the distance of nearly half a mile; and farther off, is a rocky bank of 6 fathoms. At 20 miles to the west, is a depth of 150 fathoms, dark sand, decreasing rapidly toward the land, to 45 fathoms, at 12 miles from shore, and then gradually to the beach.

At about 13 leagues to the south-westward of Dar-el-Beida, is the small town of Azamor, standing on the river Om-er-biyeh, but it affords no safe anchorage. At 3 leagues farther, are the remains of Mazaghan, which are situated on a low rocky point, projecting to the north, and forming the western limit of a sandy cove, of about 1 mile in extent, in which there is a good