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înstead of having wholesome food in abundance, are sometimes compelle to subsist for several months of the year upon juniper-berries and wil! roots. The cattle are extremely small, so that the ground is very superficially laboured. The best wool is grown in the district of Trai Dalmatia produces maize, pulse, wheat, grapes, olives, figs, almonds, and various other kinds of fruit, but there are no potatoes. At Zara, a species of liquor called marasquino is made from the marasques, a kind of cherry and is much celebrated in most of the cities of Europe. It is the stone of this fruit which gives the liquor its peculiar flavour. A few distilleries manufacture rosolio. In the district of Trau, the vine and the olivetree are cultivated to a great extent, and in great perfection; so tha from that small district alone, there are produced annually 13,000 barrels of excellent oil, and 50,000 hogsheads of remarkably good wine. It furnishes also 300,000 lbs. of dried figs, a great quantity of almonds, and 400,000 lb. of cheese, and wool in proportion. A kind of coarse cloth is manufactured from the threads of the broom, by the inhabitants of Morter, who are very industrious in gathering this material. This cloth, however, is only employed as a kind of pack-sheet for making sacks, and covering bales of merchandise. In all the islands along the coast, fishing is a common employment, especially for anchovies and mackarels, but the fisheries have much declined of late years.

Population.] The census of 1817 returned the population of Dalmatia at 304,055; Stein fixes it at 334,075; and Balbi at 350,000. The inhabitants are almost all of Slavonian descent; there are, however, a number of Italians in the towns whose ancestors settled here during the Venetian dominion. The Slavonian inhabitants are divided into two races, viz.: 1st, The Morlachi, who, according to some are of Bulgarian Slavonic, and according to others of Tartaric descent. They are a people of original manners and customs. Those who inhabit the low country are of short stature, but robust in person; and are distinguished by a lively appearance, mild manners, some hospitality, but great flexibility of character. The inhabitants of the mountains, called Haiducks, are a tall, strong race, of rude manners, and appearance. Both tribes speak a Slavonian dialect. 2d, The Montenegrians live around the gulf of Cattaro. They are a strong wild race of men speaking a Slavonian dialect. They live in the mountains which bear their name: each family by themselves and surrounded by their property. Besides these two principal nations, and the Italian inhabitants of the towns, there are still some Uskocks, in this country, many of whom are piratical adventurers; there are also a few Greeks, and about 400 Jews.

The majority of the inhabitants belong to the Catholic and the United Church; of the rest about 61,164 are Greeks. Education is still in a very rude state; but there are gymnasiums at Zara, Spalatt, and Ragusa. Government.] There is only one class among the Morlachi who are divided into citizens and peasants. Under the Venetian dominion a kind

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The term Haiduck, signifies originally the chief or head of a family,' and is Slavonic. In Dalmatia it is employed to designate a criminal, fugitive, assassin, and highway robber; and these Haiducks actually answer to the qualities above described under the term. But savage as the Haiducks are, they have some traits of that generosity which is common among tribes in the same stage of society. Though travellers are liable both to be plundered and murdered by them, yet they are faithful to every traveller who has had the prudence to put himself under their protection, and trust to their fidelity. In this case they are never known to deceive. Their numbers are on the increase; and were they to be headed by some intrepid and daring leader, they would become very fermidable to the inhabited and more civilized parts of Dalmatia.

of nobility was formed, and certain families have taken titles, but no prerogatives are attached to them. Only in the district of Poglizza, which is inhabited by about 16,000 warlike and more civilized Morlachi, a nobility, partly of Magyarian and partly of Bosnian descent, has been established. This district enjoys particular prerogatives; the chief of it, called the Gran Conte, is annually elected in a general assembly; every man is a soldier; and they pay no taxes, except a small tribute. Austria has allowed this kind of republican constitution to exist at Poglizza; but Dalmatia is arbitrarily governed by Austria, there being no species of representation. The seat of the government is at Zara, and stands immediately under the court-chancery of Vienna. The revenue of Dalmatia is about 956,000 florins, and scarcely covers the expenses of the government. Dalmatia furnishes four battalions of light cavalry.

Topography.] Dalmatia is divided into five circles, viz.:

1st, The Circle of Zara.] This circle, according to Liechtenstern, contains 112.5 German square miles, and in 1817 there were 112,382 inhabitants.-Zara, the capital of the kingdom, is built on a neck of land separated from the continent by a deep ditch. Its population is about 6000. It possesses a gymnasium, two seminaries, a theatre, and a good harbour.-Zara Vichia, or Old Zara, a borough with a harbour, was formerly the residence of the kings of Dalmatia.-Sebenico, at the mouth of the Kerka, has a large harbour protected by the castle of St. Nicolo, and a magnificent cathedral. To this circle belong a number of islands as Melada, Puntadura, Mortero, Zuri, and the two Quarnaro islands, viz. Arbe and Pago.

2d, The Circle of Spalatto.] According to Liechtenstern this circle is 96.60 German square miles in extent, with a population of 82,949. The town of Spalatto, with 7000 inhabitants, is built on a small peninsula fortified by nature and art. It possesses a spacious harbour, and is the site of many interesting remains of Roman antiquity.To this circle belong several islands, among which are Bua, containing a remarkable asphaltic spring; Brazza, with 12,282 inhabitants, who manufacture a good deal of wine; Lesina, the ancient Pharia, one of the largest islands of Dalmatia, forty-four miles in length, and from five to eight in breadth; Goer, where a considerable quantity of wine is grown; and Lissa, famous for its anchovies, which are caught here in so great quantities that one boat will frequently take 150,000 in one night. The borough of Lissa occupies the site of the once celebrated town of Issa.

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This circle has a square surface, 3d, The Circle of Makarska.] according to Liechtenstern, of 39.30, according to others of 45.7 German miles, with a population of 38,720 in 1817. Makarska is the chief town.

4th, The Circle of Ragusa.] This circle embraces the dominions of the former republic of Ragusa. This city, with its territory, was, till seized by Bonaparte after the peace of Tilsit in 1807, a small independent aristocratical republic, under the protection of the Turks; for which it paid an annual tribute of 25,000 crowns of gold annually, including the expenses of the yearly embassy. The whole territory contains about 430 British square miles, and a population of 56,000 souls.

This small

State boasted of greater antiquity than Venice its hated rival. The territory denominated the State of Ragusa, is divided into continental and insular. The continental is enclosed on every side but the sea, by Austrian and Turkish Dalmatia, consisting of a narrow stripe along the

shore; and the long peninsula of Sabioncello, running out into the Adriatic, between two arms of the sea, one arm separating it from the mainland, and another separating it from the island of Melida, likewise included in the ci-devant state of Ragusa. The city is very ancient, having been founded long before the birth of Christ. It afterwards became a Roman colony; but was in the 3d century destroyed by the invading Goths. The new city was built upon the site of the old, in the place where it now stands, and was gradually enlarged. Its ancient name was Rausis, or Rausa, corruptly Ragusa. The Turks call it Pabovrika; and in the Slavonic, it is called Dobronicka, or Dobronich. It is not very large, but is wellbuilt, and tolerably fortified. The air is wholesome; but the soil is so barren, that the inhabitants receive almost all their necessaries from their Turkish neighbours. The city of Ragusa has experienced frequent earthquakes; in that of 1667, 6000 persons perished. A great fire breaking out at the same time, the place was so injured, that it did not thoroughly recover for 20 years afterwards. The religion is the Roman Catholic; the language a dialect of the Slavonic, but the greater part of the citizens speak Italian. Ragusa formerly enjoyed considerable commerce, and the inhabitants were wealthy and industrious; the harbour is excellent. Under the shade of a free government, Ragusa had the best trade on the whole Dalmatian coast, and its manufactures were of distinguished beauty and excellent texture; but as to its present state, we can say little, Balbi states it to contain 5000 inhabitants. Stagno, on the peninsula of Sabioncello, with 900 inhabitants, is very unhealthy on account of the neighbouring marshes. The principal adjacent islands are: Kalamota, Meleda, Kurzola, with 6,447 inhabitants, and Agosta.

5th, The Circle of Cattaro.] Immediately adjoining to the south and east of Ragusa, is the division of Austrian Dalmatia, known by the name of the Cattaro. This territory is sometimes called Lower Dalmatia, sometimes Albania, and sometimes Montenegro; and owes its importance wholly to its forming an impregnable barrier against the Turks, and to the excellence of the harbour of Cattaro,—perhaps the most secure in Europe. This little spot, with a population not exceeding 30,000 persons, has on the E. the district of Zenta, in Upper Albania, from which it is separated by a chain of steep and rugged mountains, being an elongation of the range that runs through Dalmatia, and terminates on the sea-shore, a little to the S.E. of the Gulf of Cattaro. This dividing ridge is peopled by a fierce, hardy, and warlike people, denominated the Montenegrians, or inhabitants of the Black mountains, who have lived from time immemorial in a state of barbarous independence, amidst all the political revolutions that have successively affected the country. Neither Turks nor Venetians have ever been able to subdue them. To the Catholics, as well as Turks, they bear a most decided aversion; and to the French, when in possession of the Cattaro, they evinced a sincere and mortal hatred. In fine, these mountaineers love none but themselves and the Russians; because they are of the same faith, and because they hope, that at no long period of time, the Russians will rid them of their detested Mussulman enemies and neighbours.

The Gulf of Cattaro, (not the mouth of the Cattaro, as it is ridiculously denominated, as if the Cattaro were a river and not an arm of the sea), has on one hand the Ragusan territory, and on the other, the northern extremity of Albania. The entrance into the gulf is divided,

by the intervention of two rocks, into three channels, which have obtained the inappropriate appellation above-mentioned, as if a river had there emptied itself, by these three different channels into the sea, Within these, is a basin lying S.S.E. and N.N.W. 15 miles long, and from 3 to 5 broad. This basin communicates, by a narrow passage, with an inner harbour, which lies nearly in a parallel direction, and is about 11 miles long, and 2 miles broad. Ships of anchor in any size may any part of either harbour, in perfect safety, and almost close to the shore. Opposite the entrance of the outer basin or harbour, is the town of Castel Nuovo, with its ruined fortress; a place which, in the days of Sultan Solyman, and Mohammed IV., was the scene of many a desperate conflict between the Turks and Venetians. In a similar situation, fronting the entrance of the inner barbour, is the small town of Peraste, inhabited by Catholics, who have two convents beautifully situated on an island near the town. At the head of the inner basin stands Cattaro, the capital of the State, built at the foot of the steepest height of the Montenegro range, which here presents 1,200 feet of perpendicular elevation, and frowns in awful majesty upon the subjacent valley. Cattaro is so surrounded with rocks, that it cannot be seen till a close approach; and so overhung by them, as for several hours to seem buried in their shade. In summer, the reflection of the sun from these rocks makes the town uncommonly hot; but the snow continues in the hollows of the mountain throughout the whole year, thus affording a plentiful supply of water at all times. This city was well-fortified by the Venetians, with regular works towards the water, flanked by strong bastions; the works on the land-side somewhat resembling those of Gibraltar. A conical rock, rising to the height of 600 feet perpendicular from the base of the Montenegro, is detached from the mountain, about half-way its height. This rock is enclosed within the fortification; and transverse lines are carried along the side, to the very summit. These are defended by galleries, with loopholes for musketry, and cannon placed on the most commanding angles; and on the summit is a regular platform. The Cattarini, as they are called, make more wine and oil than they can consume; but of every other article of food, they produce barely enough for a three months' consumption in the year. Part of their supplies, they obtain from their fierce neighbours, the Montenegrians, but the far greater part is derived from Trieste and the Levant. In this trade, between 200 and 300 vessels are employed, many of them above 300 tons burden. Thus, depending on maritime commerce for their subsistence, a large proportion of the people are bred up from their childhood to the sea, and they are esteemed the most expert mariners in the Adriatic. The importance of this city is partly commercial and partly political, it being long regarded as an impregnable bulwark against the Turks, who had often besieged it, but in vain; and it is still viewed as the Gibraltar of Dalmatia.5

By the peace of Presburg, the Austrians had agreed to cede it to the French, who looked upon the possession of this impregnable fortress and city as an important acquisition, on account of its excellence as a naval station, the extent of its commerce, and its being situate on the very frontiers of Turkey, whence, at any time, when an opportunity presented itself to their view, they could accomplish their ambitious views, respecting the Turkish empire. But the singular address, and diplomatic adroitness of a Russian envoy, prevented for a time the execution of this cession, on the part of Austria. The cession of this important fortress was made an essential article of the treaty of Tilsit. The consequences of this cession were exactly such as the Russian envoy had told the Montenegrians, when he persuaded them to seize it for

CHAP. IV. THE ITALIAN STATES OF THE AUSTRIAN MONARCHY, OR THE LOMBARDO-VENETIAN KINGDOM.

THE surface of these States, according to Liechtenstern, is 830.82 German square miles; according to Blumenbach, 867.50 German square miles; and according to Stein, 862.5. We reserve our description of these States, which form an integral part of the Austrian Empire, for our article Italy.

Authorities.] Among the most useful works which have yet appeared relating to the history and geography of Austria in particular are Liechtenstern's Handbuch der neuesten Geographie des Oesterreichischen Kaisarstaats. Wien. 1817-18, 3 vols. 8vo.-Marcel de Senes, Voy. en Autriche, où essai stat. et geogr. de cet empire. Paris, 1814, 4 vols., 8vo.-Austria as it is, by an Eyewitness. London, 1828, 8vo.—Atlas des Oesterr. Kaisarthums, in 40 Blätt. Wien. 1805.-Coxe's History of the House of Austria.

themselves: for Bonaparte's first act, after he had obtained possession of the Cattaro, was the seizure of the city and territory of Ragusa, without either plea or provocation, and the destruction of that ancient, free, and flourishing republic, which was immediately annexed to the dominions of France. In October 1813, Cattaro was taken by the British squadron in the Adriatic, under the gallant Hoste; and the garrison of 600 men, under general Gautier, obliged to surrender at discretion. This event was followed by the reduction of Ragusa and Zara, and the entire evacuation of all Dalmatia, by the French.

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