particular account of the produce is given. The mines of Oberwert and Canderon produce excellent iron. Quarries of freestone and marble are abundant; and some agates are found in the valleys watered by the torrents that descend to the Rhine. Baden is celebrated for the vast number of mineral waters and hot baths which it contains. In the city itself, there are upwards of 300 hot baths. These occasion a great resort of nobility from all parts of Germany, which both enriches and civilizes the people, who are uncommonly polite and courteous to strangers. Some of the baths at Baden are scalding hot, and all of them run from rocks of alum, salt, and brimstone. One of these baths is called the kettle; in it the water boils furiously, and smokes as if placed over a furnace. A number of hot baths also occur at the town of Badenweiler, but the temperature is not so great as that of the Baden baths.-Almost all hands being occupied in agricultural industry, there are very few manufactories. On the Black Forest the inhabitants manufacture wooden clocks, and other wooden tools. The country is very advantageously situated for commerce, but what presently exists is unimportant.

Inhabitants.] The inhabitants of Baden belong to the High German race; their ancestors were partly Alemannians, and partly Slavonians. Their language is a hard High German dialect. There are about 15,000 Jews. The three Christian confessions, Catholic, Lutheran, and Reformed, have entirely equal toleration in Baden, there being no established religion; but the government exercises great prerogatives in the affairs of each establishment.62 The Catholics form the majority, amounting to about 663,000. The Lutherans-which religion the present grand duke professes-amount to about 248,500; and the Reformed church numbers nearly 83,000 adherents.

Education.] Much has been done in later times for education. There are two universities, one Catholic and one Protestant; of which the latter, at Heidelberg, is one of the best in Germany. The superintendence of public instruction, with the exception of the universities, stands under a royal commission. In general the members of each persuasion have their own public schools; but in case that their number is not sufficient for that purpose, in any town or village, or that the means of supporting the schools are wanting, then the school of one confession joins that of another, and all are obliged to submit to such rules and regulations as are not opposed to their own religious faith and maxims. But in such a case the instruction in religious doctrine always belongs to the respective clergyman of each creed. Besides, there are throughout the whole country Sunday and evening schools, which are attended by children of every persuasion. The higher public schools, even when they belong to believers of one church, can be frequented by persons of a different faith,

62 In general, the supreme authority of government over every church establishment in the grand duchy, comprehends the following prerogatives, viz.-1. The inspection of all the acts and doings of the churches by government, that nothing shall happen that may endanger the peace of the country. 2. The right to take notice of and authorize any publication, as well as the installation of the different ministers of the church. 3. The right to exclude every person from a church employment who does not meet with the approbation of government. 4. The right to authorize the foundation of convents or ecclesiastical societies, or to abolish them, if contrary to the ends of public peace and safety. 5. The right of appointing or confirming the servants of the church, proposed for that purpose by the church establishment. 6. The right of interfering in, and arranging all quarrels and complaints originating from transgressions or abuses of the church and its servants.

as it happens with regard to the children of Jews. In places where Protestants and Catholics are living together, the professors of the higher schools are generally half Protestants and half Catholics.

Government.] Baden is an hereditary constitutional principality, with the succession in the male line. The person of the duke is sacred, according to the constitution; but the ministers are responsible. The inhabitants of the grand duchy of Baden enjoy equal civil and public rights, and when they are of the Christian persuasion, have the same claims to every place in the civil administration as well as in the army. There are two chambers, of which the one is elective; and justice is administered by several tribunals.

Revenue. The revenue in 1826 was 20,353,000 francs, or £848,041: 10: 2d. The public debt in 1810 was estimated at 18 millions of florins, or £2,250,000. In 1826, it was reduced to 39,000,000 francs, or £1,625,001

Army.] The army amounts to between 8,000 and 10,000 men, exclusive of the militia; but if the whole of the latter were summoned it might be raised to 100,000 men.

Topography.] Baden is divided into 6 circles, which are again subdivided into bailiwicks, having each its own administration. There are 108 towns, 36 boroughs, and 2,427 villages and hamlets in this country.

1st. The Murg and Pfinz Circle.] This circle forms a part of the large valley of the Rhine. Carlsruhe, the chief town of the duchy, is one of the finest towns in Germany. All the streets diverge from the castle in straight lines like the rays of a star, and the houses are regularly built. It contains 20,000 inhabitants, of whom about 790 are Jews. There are a theatre and some fine public buildings here. The library contains 70,000 volumes; and the beautiful gardens of the grand duke are open for public walks.-Baden contains 3,180 inhabitants. The environs are beautiful, and the number of visitors is sometimes upwards of 3000.-Pferzheim, on the Enz, with 5,301 inhabitants, contains several manufactories, particularly of jewellery, which occupy about 900 or 1000 people.

2d. The Circle of the Kinzig.] The climate is here mild in the valley of the Rhine; but very severe in some parts of the Black Forest, where some of the valleys are so narrow that the sun does not penetrate into them for 3 or 4 months in the year. Agriculture, and the rearing of cattle, are the principal branches of industry. Offenburg is the chief town of the circle, with 2,880 inhabitants.-The sovereignty of the county of Hohengeroldseck, a small district not exceeding 50 square miles, was, by treaty in 1819, given to Baden, and forms a part of this circle.-Kehl, a small town, on an island formed by the Rhine, opposite to Strasburg, was lately a strong fortress; but the works were demolished in 1815.

3d. The Circle of Treisam.] This circle-which takes its name, like the rest, from one of its rivers-contains the greatest and highest part of the Black Forest, of which many mountains are during eight months of the year covered with snow. The valley of the Rhine is very small, but in the neighbourhood of the river very fertile. Freyburg, with 10,108 inhabitants, is the chief town. Here is a Catholic university, one of the best in any Catholic country in Germany, with 28 professors. The Minster is a very fine Gothic building.-Heitersheim, at the foot of the Black Forest, with 1,438 inhabitants, has a fine castle, formerly the

seat of the grand master of the order of St. John.-Breisach, a town of 2,514 inhabitants, had formerly a very strong citadel on the Eggardsberg. 4th. The Circle of the Lake.] This circle has its name from its situation on the Lake of Constance. In its circumference lie Hohentwiel, belonging to Wirtemberg, a part of the canton of Zurich, and in the S.W. the canton of Schaffhausen. The Danube rises in this circle. The Rhine flows through the Lake of Constance. The soil is more fit for pasture and the growing of vines, than for agriculture. Constance, situated on the Rhine, where it comes out of the lake, contains 5000 inhabitants. Much wine is grown around it. The council of Constance sat here from 1414 to 1418.

5th. The Circle of the Neckar.] This circle is so extremely well cultivated, that a part of it resembles a garden; but the wine which is Fruit is excellent, grown here is not of a particularly good quality. and in great quantity. Chesnuts and nuts are articles of exportation. In this circle, the establishments for education are better than in any of the others. Mannheim, the chief town of the circle, is beautifully situated on the Rhine, over which is a bridge of boats. It is very regularly built, and divided into 4 quarters, which form 28 squares; all the streets being straight, and cutting one another at right angles. The houses are all of the same height. The magnificent castle is 750 feet The number of inhabitlong; and there is a library of 70,000 volumes. ants exceeds 21,000.-Heidelberg, on the Neckar, over which leads a bridge of 702 feet length, and 30 feet breadth, contains upwards of 10,000 inhabitants. Close above the town is a beautiful old castle, in the cellar of which is shown the celebrated tun or wine-cask of Heidelberg. The Protestant university here was founded in 1386, and is the oldest of all existing German universities. There are 45 professors, a library of 30,000 volumes, and a botanical and experimental garden. The scenery around Heidelberg is beautiful.

6th. The Circle of the Mayne and Tauber.] More corn is produced here than is needed for home consumption. The growing of wine along the Mayne is considerable, Establishments for education are much wanted; and those existing are in a very defective state. Wertheim, with 3,227 inhabitants, is the chief town.

CHAP. XIV.-THE ELECTORATE OF HESSEN.

THE electorate of Hessen, or Hessen-Cassel, has been created out of the former landgraviate of Hessen-Cassel. It takes its name from the tribe of the Hesses, who, in the middle ages, occupied the country around the Fulda and Werra, and were either derived from the Catti of Tacitus, in direct line, or seem to have been blended with them at an early age. Hessen-Cassel is bounded on the N.W. by the Prussian province of Westphalia; on the N.E. by the kingdom of Hanover; on the E. by the Prussian province of Saxony, the grand duchy of SaxeWeimar, and by Bavaria; on the S.E. by Bavaria; on the S.W. by the grand duchy of Hessen and the dominions of Francfort; and on the W. by the grand duchy of Hessen, and by Waldeck. The surface is 204.09 German square miles, according to Hassel. Stein gives 209. Perhaps, including the detached territories, 4,350 British square miles will be near the truth. The population was returned to the Confederacy at 545,208;

subsequently it was estimated at 585,100, by Stein; and in 1826 it amounted to 592,000, according to Balbi.

History.] Hessen belonged to the Frankish empire; and till about the middle of the 13th century its history is blended with that of Thuringia. It was only after Henry I., after a violent struggle with the house of Meissen, had got into tranquil possession of Hessen, that the emperor Adolph of Nassau declared it an immediate fief of the empire. Henry made Cassel his residence. After his death the country was divided between his two sons; but one of them having died, it was again united under the other. After several unions and dismemberments, we find it, in 1500, again united under William, who left it at his death to his son Philip, then only five years of age. The troubles which distracted Germany, at this period caused the emperor Maximilian, in 1508, to declare the young landgrave-whose great qualities he foresaw— of age at fourteen. The young landgrave, who obtained for himself the honourable appellation of the Magnanimous, introduced the Reformation into Hessen, and with the secularized goods of the church, founded the university of Marburg, and 4 hospitals. It was be who, in 1529, negotiated the famous interview between Luther and Zuingle for the purpose of adjusting their differences. He undertook the direction of the Schmalkaldian league, together with the elector of Saxony, and became a prisoner of Charles V., in the battle of Muhlberg. He obtained his freedom after a captivity of five years, and divided his possessions by testament, in 1562, among his four sons; but two of them having died, only the two principal lines of Cassel and Darmstadt remained. William IV. founded the line of Hessen-Cassel. William VIII. was an ally of England in the Seven Years' war, in which his soldiers gained honour and reputation, but his country only misfortune. His son, Frederic II., maintained a brilliant court, and a considerable army, which he sold to England to fight against the cause of American independence. His son, William IX., took part in the war of the Revolution against France, but entered into the treaty of peace at Basel, and since that time adhered to Prussian politics. He was indemnified for his cessions beyond the Rhine by some other districts, and named elector. In the war between France and Prussia, he declared himself neutral; but after the battle of Jena, he was driven from his country on the allegation of his having secretly favoured the Prussian interest, and his dominions incorporated with Jerome Bonaparte's kingdom of Westphalia. After the victory of Leipzig, the elector returned to his country, and retained his title, although election no longer exists in Germany. William convened an assembly of the States in 1814, but could not agree with them regarding a new constitution. He died on the 27th of February, 1821, and was succeeded by his son, William XI., who has established a new administration, and a new division of the country.

Physical Features.] Hessen-Cassel is a mountainous country, intersected with valleys, which offer much picturesque scenery-particularly the fine valley of the Fulda, in which the capital lies. The principal mountains are the Thuringian Forest, to which belongs the Inselberg, 2,791 feet in altitude; the Werra Mountains; the Rhön; the Fulda Mountains, not very high, but remarkable for their volcanic origin and beautiful forests; the Mountains of Hanau; and the Sünter. The principal rivers are the Weser, the Mayne, and the Lahn.

Productions-Industry.] Hessen-Cassel produces game, corn, fruit,

wine, flax, and hemp. Near Frankenberg is a gold mine, and some gold sand is found in the Eder. Silver, copper, lead, and iron, are found in considerable quantities; as also alum, vitriol, sulphur, coal, marble, and alabaster; with several salt springs, mineral waters, and medicinal baths. The state of agriculture here is inferior to that of the neighbouring Hanoverian, Prussian, and Saxon provinces. There are few manufactures, except linen-weaving, which is carried on all over the country. There is some commerce of exportation, and a considerable transit. But the balance between importation and exportation stands against the country. Inhabitants.] In 1818, there were 329,200 Calvinists, 140,000 Lutherans, 90,000 Catholics, 8,500 Jews, and 200 Mennonites in this country. The Hessians are a strong and well-formed race; they have a military appearance, but a dull phlegmatic constitution. The women of

the lower classes are neither handsome nor pleasant. The Hessians on the whole are a brave and upright people; but they have no genius, and are little adapted for the cultivation of the arts. No distinguished poet or author of genius in German literature has been born in Hessen.

Education.] The Hessian establishments for education are inefficient; the elementary schools are not good, and the university at Marburg, though a little improved of late, cannot compete with any other German university. An ordonnance issued or renewed in 1818, allows only the sons of nobles, and those civil officers who have equal rank with them, and the eldest sons of clergymen to enjoy a liberal education ! There is a very severe censorship not only upon native publications, but also on the importation of foreign books, lest any liberal and enlightened principles might, by this means, be diffused in the country.

Government.] Hessen holds the eighth place in the German confederacy, and has 3 votes in plenum. The elector is an absolute sovereign: no constitution existing at this moment. The succession goes in the male line; the prince is of age at 18.

Revenue.] The revenue amounted to about £643,750 in 1826, according to Balbi, and the debt to £274,166: 13: 4d.

Army.] The whole military force consists of about 18,000 men; in 1826, the regular army amounted to 5,679. They are levied by conscription. Hessen-Cassel was, in 1821, divided into 4 provinces: namely, Lower Hessen, Upper Hessen, Fulda, and Hanau.

Towns.] Cassel, the capital, with 26,000 inhabitants, lies on the Fulda. There are several magnificent public places and splendid buildings, among which the museum, containing a library of 70,000 volumes, a cabinet of antiquities, and one of natural history, is the finest. There is also a fine theatre. Cassel was the capital of the kingdom of Westphalia, and Jerome held here one of the most brilliant courts in Germany; the population was then increased to 23,167, but the most wealthy part left Cassel in 1813. A straight alley runs from Cassel to Wilhelmshöhe, a magnificent palace with a collection of beautiful pictures belonging to the elector. There is here a copper statue of Hercules, 30 feet high, elevated on the top of a rock, rising to the altitude of 1,312 feet above the level of the sea, from which an artificial cascade runs down with a fall of 190 feet. The castle of Philippsthal is the residence of the landgrave of Hessen-Philippsthal, a side-line of the reigning house. Schmalkalden, on the river of the same name, and celebrated for the Schmalkaldian league concluded here in 1531, contains 4474 inhabitants. Marburg, on the Lahn, with 7000 inhabitants, is the seat of a university,