S. by the Adriatic; and on the W. by the Lombardo-Venetian territory and Tyrol. Its area, according to Stein, is 11,160 British square miles.

Physical Features.] The surface of this country is intersected by high chains of mountains, and covered with isolated hills. The coasts are partly flat and sandy, and towards the W. marshy. On the W. the bay of Trieste, and on the E. that of Guarnero run deep into the country, and form the large peninsula of Istria, of which Cape Promontore is the extreme point. The three principal chains of mountains are that of the Noric Alps, of which the Gross Glockner is the highest point; that of the Carnian Alps; and that of the Julian Alps. The latter rise at the Terklou, and run on to the Adriatic. There are several chains belonging to the Julian system. All are primitive limestone; and have the peculiarity that they are excavated in an extraordinary manner. From Isonzo to the boundaries of Bosnia, there are above 1000 grottoes; and probably the whole chain is hollow, for many small rivers not only flow from these heights, but in many places seem to sink into the ground and disappear in a kind of natural tunnel. The whole of Carniola, and the eastern coast indeed present very peculiar physical features; and surpass any other region in Europe for grottoes, subterranean rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and other curious phenomena.

Rivers.] The principal rivers are the Save, the Laibach, the Gurck, the Kulp, the Isonzo, and the Quieto; of these, the most considerable is the Save, which rises in Upper Carniola, from the Terklou near the village of Ratchach, and after a course of 375 British miles, falls into the Danube, at Belgrade. This large stream divides, in its progress, southern from northern Croatia, and Slavonia from Bosnia and Servia; receiving, on the Turkish side, the Unna, the Verbas, the Bosna, the Drino, and the Colubarra; and on the left, the Veleka, the Orianna, and the Bozut. Its waters are easily distinguishable from those of the Danube at Belgrade, as being of a deep green, whereas those of the latter are yellow.

Lakes.-Czirknitz.] The principal lakes are those of Wartz, Klagenfurt, and Czirknitz. The latter is justly esteemed one of the greatest curiosities in nature. It is 8 miles long, by 4 broad, encompassed on all sides by steep mountains and forests. Annually in June, the waters disappear, chiefly by two openings which nature has provided for them in the adjoining rocks; but besides these two cavities, there are a number of holes in the bottom of the lake, through which the water entirely disappears. In September, the waters again return with such violence, that they rise to the height of a pike, and cover all the bed of the lake. When the waters are about to disappear, they rush towards the different openings, and in the space of 25 days the lake is completely drained. After the waters are gone, a field is presented in the bed of the lake, admirably adapted for cultivation, which is immediately laboured and sown; and in three months' time, abundant crops of hay and millet, are obtained from it. The grass yields good pasturage for the deer, which come from the neighbouring forests, and return before the re-appearance of the waters. When the lake is full of water, it abounds in fish, which the peasantry are allowed to take during the time that the waters are retiring. The waters have been known to retire and return three times in a year; and in some years not to fluctuate at all.

Climate.] The climate of the elevated districts is very rigorous, but in general healthy. The circles of Laibach, Neustadt, Adelsberg, and Kailstadt enjoy a temperature sufficiently mild for the growth of vines,

chesnuts, and maize. On the coasts it is very warm, and the vegetation is luxurious. In the circle of Görz the mulberry-tree endures the winter quite well, and in Trieste the olive; but these districts want water, and are rendered unhealthy by the exhalations from the lagunes.

Industry.-Mines.] The rural inhabitants are patient agriculturists; and the fisheries of mackarel and anchovies afford a considerable source of wealth. But the most important branch of industry, is the working of minerals and the manufacture of iron, which is exported in great quantities. The Carinthian iron is equal in quality to that of Styria. The lead is also excellent, and is generally known in Europe by the appellation of the yellow lead of Villach. Lead mines have been wrought in Carinthia, from a very remote period: that near the Bleeberg, has been so for 1100 years. The annual produce of the Carinthian mines, is thus stated: iron, 165,000 quintals; copper, 936 quintals; and lead, 37,000 quintals. The quicksilver mines of Idria are of great celebrity and value, and accounted the richest in Europe, yielding annually 12,000 quintals, or 648,000 lbs. of quicksilver, and 7,000 quintals, or 378,000 lbs. of native cinnabar. These mines were accidentally discovered in 1497. The common ore is cinnabar; and the quicksilver is obtained from the numerous subterraneous cavities, that have been opened in great abundance in the mines, which have been hollowed out to the depth of 900 feet. The mercury is found in stones, in a sort of clay, and sometimes in a disengaged state, running through the crevices, and at other times spontaneously dropping on the subjacent rocks. The descent to the mines is by ladders, and stairs of stone; and the length of the galleries is computed at 1580 feet. The town of Idria is surrounded with woods; and the mountain of Vogelsberg, which contains the mines above mentioned, on the east, is covered with oaks and broom, the interior consisting of red clay, calcareous rock, and a black soft slate, covering the metallic vein in a southern direction. The mining operations in these vast mercurial caverns being pernicious to the health, are sometimes allotted as a punishment for criminals. In the time of great floods, abundance of wood is carried down from these bills, and serves as fuel for the mines. Idria lies 15 miles to the N.E. of Trieste. Carniola marble is reckoned beautiful; and is found in great plenty and variety, in different parts of the country. Alum, nitre, vitriol, bolar and fuller's-earth, together with rock-crystal, beautiful hyacinths, eagle-stones, and blood-stones, abound

There is abundance of good pasture for cattle in Carniola and Carinthia, and considerable flocks of sheep are found here; the rams are without horns, and the fleeces are not inferior to those of Padua. The common breed of horned cattle is generally good and strong, though not of the largest size. Dairies of a similar description with those of Switzerland are frequent in Carinthia. Swine are reared in considerable numbers in the eastern quarter of Carinthia; and in the forests are found wild goats, as also red, brown, and white bears.

Inhabitants.] There are three principal tribes in the population of Illyria: viz. About 780,000 Slavonians including Wendes, Croatians, Raizes, and Ushocks; nearly 320,000 Germans, and Gottschewerians; and 11,061 Italians. The majority of the inhabitants are Catholics; but there are above 17,000 Lutherans, and 1100 Jews who enjoy ample toleration. The peasantry are a brave and hardy race. Their food is very coarse and mean: they are accustomed to sleep on a hard bench without bed or bolster; and in Upper Carniola they go barefoot in

the ground,

winter through the snow. In winter, when the snow is upon the mountaineers, like the Laplanders, bind either small baskets, or long thin narrow boards, to their feet, on which, with the help of a stout staff, they descend with great velocity from the mountains; when the snow is frozen, they make use of skaits for the same purpose.

Topography.] Illyria is divided into two governments which are subdivided into 9 circles.

GOVERNMENT OF LAIBACH.] The two provinces of Carinthia and Carniola-with the exception of a part of the former which has been given to the government of Trieste-compose the government of Laibach, which contains 25 towns, 42 boroughs, and 5,947 villages and hamlets, and is divided into 5 circles. One of the loftiest mountains in the Austrian dominions, occurs in this quarter, it is called the Terklou, and is elevated 10,194 feet above the level of the sea. It is the principal summit of the southern Alpine chain, which runs in an eastern direction through Carniola. The declination of Carinthia and Carniola, as well as of Styria, is, for the most part, from west to east-a circumstance clearly evinced both by the course of the rivers, and the aspect of the mountains, which after they pass the summit of the Terklou, decline greatly in height.

1st. Circle of Laibach.] The capital of the government is Laibach, which contains a population of about 9000 souls. This town has acquired celebrity in later times, as being the scene of the famous congress, so fatal to the liberties of Italy, which removed its sittings from Troppau to this city in December 1820.

2d. Circle of Neustaedt.] The chief town of this circle is Neustaedt, with 1,690 inhabitants. Around the town of Gottschee there are located about 40,000 Gottschewarians, a German tribe, distinguished by language, customs, and manners, from the surrounding population. They conduct a considerable commerce as pedlars.

3d. Circle of Adelsberg.] In the north of this circle is the famous cave of Adelsberg, consisting of 3 grottoes, which rise one above the other; through the lowest one flows the Toigk, the uppermost forms a dome of ten fathoms height, with remarkable stalactites. At some distance is the Magdalen cave, which is 600 fathoms long, and is also full of stalactites. Idria, on the Idrizza, the seat of the mines already described, contains above 4000 inhabitants. The lake of Czirknitz is

situated in this circle.

4th. Circle of Klagenfurt.] The northern part of this circle is occupied by Germans, and the southern by Wendes. Among the mountains of the south is the Loibel, over which leads the great road to Laibach, which, if we regard the length that it has been carried over a very elevated tract of country, is hardly surpassed by any other road in Europe. The chief town is Klagen, with 9,143 inhabitants. Serbach has a famous manufactory of fire-arms, and an extensive one of silver-lace. 5th. Circle of Villach.] The great body of the in this district; the few Wendes are Catholics. inhabitants, is the chief town.

Lutherans are found
Villach, with 4,623

GOVERNMENT OF TRIESTE.] This government embraces the whole Austrian coast, from Grado to Novi, and forms the southern part of Illyria, to which have been added the former Austrian Friouli, and some parts of Venetian Friouli, both Istrias, the old district of Trieste, some districts of Carniola, the Hungarian Littoral, a part of the district of

Agram, on the right side of the Drave, and the two islands of the Quarnero, Cherso and Veglia. It is divided into 4 circles.

1st. Circle of Goerz.] The circle of Gorizin, or Görz, is inhabited by Slavonians, Italians, and Germans, which latter, however, consist only of nobility; the language is a corruption of Italian, and the religion Catholic. The principal town, which gives its name to the circle, is built on the Isonzo, and contains 9000 inhabitants. Gradiska, a fortified town upon the Isonzo, contains 805 inhabitants.

2d. Circle of Istria.] The inhabitants of Istria are chiefly Slavonians. Some districts are inhabited by Italians, and there are a few Germans, Armenians, and Greeks. The language is Italian, and the religion Catholic, except some Lutherans at Trieste. This is a poor tract of coast-land around the gulf of Trieste. Trieste, the chief town of the government, contains 36,000 inhabitants, and conducts a very animated commerce, being the principal commercial town of the whole Austrian empire; the harbour is large and safe. The principal trade is with the Levant. Most nations of Europe have consuls here to manage their respective interests. The town has many manufactures of different kinds. The fishing of anchovies at Rovigno produces annually 30,000 ducats.

3d. The Circle of Fiume.] The inhabitants of this circle are chiefly of Slavonian race; but there are some Italians, Germans, Greeks, Jews, and Gypsies. The Catholic religion is predominant Fiume on the gulf of Quarnero, is the chief town. It contains 7,526 inhabitants, and has a good harbour, which is annually visited by 1,200 or 1,500 vessels, It is to Hungary, in commercial respects, what Trieste is to the German States. The island of Veglia is situated in the gulf, and has, with the two other islands of Traunich and Tarvichio, 10,414 inhabitants, all Slavonians and Catholics. A considerable quantity of wine is produced here. The island of Cherso has 6,003 inhabitants. The mountains rising in terraces are covered with vines and olives. The inhabitants are Slavonians and Catholics. They are very industrious.

4th. The Circle of Karlstadt.] This circle is inhabited by Croatians; there are also a few Greeks. Karlstadt, with 3,224 inhabitants, is the chief town.

IV. THE TYROL.

The Tyrol is an extensive and very mountainous country, inferior to none in Europe for grand and romantic scenery, extending from Italy to Suabia, and from the duchy of Carinthia to the Grisons. It has its name from the castle of Tyrol, situated on a mountain near Merau. Under this appellation are included, not only the Tyrol, properly so called, but the bishoprics of Trent and Brixen, the seven lordships of the Voralberg, and the counties of Feldkirch, Schellenberg, Monfort, Pludenz, Hohenems, and Sonneberg: the whole-excepting the seigniory of Weiler-comprehending, according to Lichtenstern, 514 square German miles, or 10,280 British square miles. Its greatest extent from N. to S., or from the southern frontiers of the bishopric of Trent to the northern frontier of Suabia, is 140 British miles; and its greatest length from E. to W., or from the western boundary of Carinthia, to the lake of Constance, is 160 miles; but its figure is extremely irregular. In the S., its breadth is not above 70 miles; in the NW., not above 40 miles;

and in the NE., where it forms a narrow angle between Upper Bavaria and Salzburg, not more than 35, and decreasing from that to 15 miles, being merely a long valley of 60 miles in length, watered by the Inn. Another angle, reaching from the moor of Sterzing to the frontiers of Carinthia, interposes between Salzburg and Italy; extending 50 miles in an eastern and western direction, and from 30 to 20 miles in breadth, from N. to S. The population, according to Lichtenstern, excluding the lordship of Wieler in the north of the Vorarlberg, amounts to 692,000; according to Stein, the population is 755,401. The Tyrolese are chiefly of German origin; but there are about 160,000 Italians in the southern part of the country. A very small part of this population is collected in towns, as Innspruck the capital contains little more than 9000 inhabitants, and Trent 11,000.

History.] The Tyrol is one of the most ancient possessions of the House of Austria, to which it fell by inheritance in 1363. Although from the very commencement of the connexion of the Tyrolese with Austria, they had on various occasions given proofs of firm attachment and unshaken loyalty, it was not till the Succession war that the Austrian family were duly sensible of the value of such subjects. Even when Frederic, the founder of the Tyrol line of Austrian princes, abjectly yielded himself and his possessions to the emperor Sigismund, these mountaineers continued faithful to him, fortified their passes, set the imperial troops at defiance, and preserved for him a country and race of which he was utterly unworthy. The ungrateful Frederic rewarded them by the imposition of heavy taxes; but at the same time secured to them their rights and liberties, and, indeed, their constitution itself. Villanage and servitude continued unknown; and the land was tilled by a free peasantry, whose representatives formed one of the branches of the legislature. Amidst their mountains an asylum was found in the worst ages of persecution. Many of the Waldenses took refuge here. But in the latter part of the 17th century, the bishop of Brixen, and the archbishop of Salzburg, having discovered that the posterity of these good men continued in the faith of their fathers-which was neither, strictly speaking, the system of Luther nor Calvin, and therefore not within the letter of the law which had compelled them to tolerate these two main sects of the reformers-ordered them to go to mass; whereupon, in 1681, 20,000 Tyrolese left their mountains and vallies, though loving them with all that passionate attachment which is peculiar to mountaineers, and went to seek for liberty of conscience in the Protestant states of Germany and Switzerland. Happily, however, the house of Austria soon perceived it to be its interest to pursue a milder policy; freedom of conscience was allowed, and the Tyrolese peasantry were more gently taxed than any other of the emperor's subjects. The Tyrol, therefore, is almost the only corner of the dominions of Austria, where people with all the love of liberty have remained really attached to the dynasty of Hapsburg. During the Succession war, the French entered the Tyrol on one side, and the Bavarians on another, at a time when there were no the up peasants blocked troops to defend the country; but the passes, broke down the bridges, and prevented their junction, nor was a single man found who could be bribed to carry intelligence from one army to the other, impossible as it was to guard all the passes among the mountains. In 1744, this country again became the seat of war, and the French, at that time in alliance with Prussia and Bavaria, invaded it,