who, after having embraced the Lutheran creed, was adopted by the king, as heir presumptive, under the name of Charles John. The prince soon acquired a powerful influence in the direction of the government. The declaration of war against England on the 7th November, 1810, was followed by the peace of 12th July, 1812, upon the occupation of Swedish Pomerania by the French. Sweden, which had obtained the promise of Norway for its participation in the war against Napoleon, only assumed an active part in the war in 1813. The Crown Prince, at the head of the army of the North, appeared in several battles against Napoleon, particularly in that of Leipsic. He then directed his arms against Denmark, which, on account of its alliance with France, had declared war against Sweden, and forced the king, Frederic VI., after having conquered Holstein and Sleswick, to sign the peace of Kiel, concluded on the 14th January, 1814, by which Sweden obtained Norway and resigned Swedish Pomerania to Denmark. The Norwegians made indeed an attempt, under the prince Christian Frederic of Holstein-Sleswick-whom they had elected king on the 29th May, 1814— to form an independent kingdom with a constitution proposed by the diet; but, forsaken by all European powers, that prince was obliged to leave Norway on the 16th of August, and the Swedish army advancing, Norway was formally united to the Swedish crown on the 21st October, 1814 The new Norwegian constitution was however guaranteed on the 4th November following, under the modifications rendered necessary by the union with Sweden. Although the Crown Prince did not appear in the Congress of Vienna, where the former king, Gustavus IV., presented, through the British admiral, Sir Sydney Smith, a memorial in which he urged the rights of his minor son to the Swedish throne, and although in Sweden itself a considerable party was formed against the Crown Prince, yet the friendly relations between Russia and Sweden were uninterrupted, and the latter joined the Holy Alliance on the 21st May, 1816.

Charles XIV] Charles XIII. died on the 5th February, 1818, and Charles John XIV. mounted the Swedish throne, although opposed by the Bourbon influence. By treaty with Great Britain, dated the 9th November, 1825, the king of Sweden engaged to cause penal laws to be passed against the slave trade. In 1824, Charles XIV. named his son, the prince Oscar, viceroy of Norway; and on the 18th June, 1827, the Crown Princess, daughter of Prince Eugene, former viceroy of Italy, was delivered of a son, who has received the name of Francis Gustavus Oscar, and the title of Duke of Upland.

CHAP. II.-PHYSICAL FEATURES-CLIMATE, SOIL, AND

PRODUCTIONS.

FROM the coast of the North Sea, to the Wener and Hielmar Lakes, and even to the Bothnian Gulf, Scandinavia presents an inclined plane, whose summit is terminated by the grand Norwegian chain, which runs nearly parallel with the coast, at the distance of from 30 to 40 miles from Cape Lindenas to the confines of Lapland. From this ridge-of an elevation from 6000 to 8000 feet-the slope is constantly towards the S. S. W. and the S. E. A great part of this slope presents planes of various elevation, separated rather by escarpments than

by chains. Heddemark in Norway, and Jämtland in Sweden, are levels of the elevation of 3000 feet. Between these two lofty plains runs a branch of the great Scandinavian chain, which, rising to 5000 or 6000 feet, first divides Norway from Sweden, and afterwards Dalecarlia from Wermeland. In the south this chain receives the appellation of the Seve mountains; and in the north is known by the name of the Kiolen or Kolen. The great lakes of Gothland occupy basins, at the termination of the chains. Sweden is intersected with numerous marshes, hills, and lakes; and beyond the 60th degree appears vast tracts of wild and uninhabited land, approximating as we proceed northwards to the sterility and bleak aspect of the polar districts. Nature in various places of this country presents the wildest and most sublime features; but in general the scenery is remarkably uniform. The coasts surrounding the Bothnian Gulf and the Baltic are bold and rugged, indented with numerous bays, and stretching out into imposing promontories; while the sea itself is filled with innumerable islands, and rocks or shares, which serve as a natural bulwark to the coasts. The shores of Christianstadt, Malmö, and Halland are indeed destitute of these skares, but are nevertheless high and well-protected.

Lapland, according to Wahlenberg, may be divided into five zones or belts, concentric with the Bothnian Gulf; and differing from each other in appearance, climate, and productions. The first, extending obliquely round the Gulf of Bothnia, and generally 80 miles broad, is covered with forests of the spruce and Scotch fir. The second, higher and colder than the first, and only from 6 to 8 miles broad, contains the Scotch fir. The third, still higher than the two preceding, is about 12 miles in breadth, except to the N. E. of Enontekis, where it is 40 miles wide. It produces birches but no pines. The fourth, nearly of the same breadth, but higher than any of the preceding, produces only the salix glauca, a species of willow peculiar to very cold climates. The fifth, and the farthest from the Gulf of Bothnia, extends along the north side of Lapland, and is the most elevated tract of the whole, the greater part of it being above the limit of constant congelation. It produces no trees, and scarcely any vegetation whatever, except a few hardy plants where the snow has been melted. In none of the three first zones is the height above the level of the sea considerable. The highest mountain in these three belts is only 1,140 feet above the level of the sea. The church of Enontekis is 1,429 feet above the level of the sea, and thence to the summit of the Lapland Alps the ground rises constantly, but so gradually that it is practicable to go in a boat to the Lake Kielisgarvi, which is in so elevated a situation that the birch-tree is scarcely to be found on the shores. The Lapland mountains are a continuation of the great chain which runs through Sweden and Norway, and extends in some of its branches to Finland and Russia. These mountains passing through the south of Lapland, as high as the latitude of Tornea, are nearly of equal height through the whole of their extent, none being lower than 2,132 feet above the level of the sea: but the most elevated mountains occur in the southern part of Luleä Lapmark. One of these is the highest glacier in Sweden, and has been long regarded, by the superstitious natives, with awe and veneration.. being denominated in the Lapponean language Sulitelma, or the Hill of God." This Alp is situated in N. Lat. 67° 10', near the margin of a

This appellation Sulitelma, and Benledi, that of a remarkable mountain of Perthshire, in Scotland, have the same original meaning in both the Lapponean and Gaelic

lake communicating with the Western Ocean. It forms three peaks of the respective altitudes of 5,760, 5,870, and 6,178 English feet. These peaks of the Kiolen are covered with an accumulation of eternal snow. The sides of the mountain, at the altitude of 2,500 feet, exhibit real glaciers. The ice itself is perfectly clear and colourless, but its clefts appear blue. Near the base of this mountain, the lake Lommi-jauri, elevated 2,265 feet above the level of the sea, has snow lying along its banks during the whole year. Half-a-degree farther north, the Viri-jauri, at an elevation of 1,900 feet, appears covered with hard ice in the middle of summer. These observations of Wahlenberg seem to harmonize with the theory that gives from 2,230 to 2,325 feet, for the height of the mean boundary of congelation in these latitudes.

To the N. of Sulitelma is another immense glacier, named Olmajalos, 5,543 feet high; and Tulpajegna, a very extensive one, is, 4,050 feet of altitude. Those of Gesetsjack, Pernetjack, and Ridaljack, to the N. of Tulpajegna, are supposed to be little inferior in height; but from 68° 20′ of N. Lat. the Alpine range, though continued in an almost uninterrupted line to the N. Cape, diminishes in elevation as it approaches the Frozen Ocean. Of the maritime Alps, which occupy the western and northern parts of Lapland, the principal chain, extending from the insular promontory of Loffoden, and the western side of the Alten Fiord, contains many mountains rising above the limit of perpetual snow, and bears glaciers immediately above the sea. The highest of these are the Alps of Lyngen, 4,264 feet high.

Seas.] Sweden is washed by two seas,-the German Ocean, and the Baltic. The former on the S. W., forms between Zealand and Halland the large stormy bay, called the Cattegat, of which we have already spoken, and is connected with the Baltic by the Sound, in which lie the Swedish Island of Hween, and several inhabited islands on the coast of Göteborg, such as Tjorn, Orust, Karingö, the Koster Island, &c. The Baltic, besides a number of Skares, contains the two Swedish Islands of Gothland and Oeland, and forms in the N. W. the Gulf of Bothnia, at the entrance of which lies the group of the Aland Islands. This gulf has almost every where from 20 to 50 fathoms water.

Rivers.] None of the Swedish rivers have an extensive course. They all run to the S. or E., from the Lapland and Norwegian mountains. Some of them, rising from great lakes, are of considerable magnitude; but their navigation is impeded by the number of cataracts which distinguish the river-courses in this country. The largest stream seems to be that of the Tornea, which is now the inland boundary on the side of Russia, and is upwards of a mile wide at its mouth. The Lula falls into the N. W. end of the same gulf, after a course of 250 British miles, from W. to E. There is a fall in this river which is the greatest in Europe, being an uninterrupted perpendicular descent of 40 feet, at a spot where the stream is above half-a-mile broad. The Kalix, Piteä, and Umeä rivers, discharge themselves into the western side of the same gulf. The most considerable streams in Sweden Proper, are those which flow from lakes, and which are called in the native language elbs or elvs.2 of these the largest are the Göta, the Angermanna, and the

languages the Hill of God:' the ancient inhabitants of both countries having been accustomed annually to perform religious rites on their summits.

"By an error common in Swedish maps, it is customary to write Umeä, or Umeae elv, Torneae elv, which implies more than is necessary; the terminating diphthong

Dal. The latter stream is the most important river of Sweden, consisting of two conjunct streams, the eastern and western Dal, which rise in the Norwegian Alps, give name to the province of Dalarn or Dalecarlia, and fall into the Bothnian Gulf, 10 miles to the S. E. of Gefle, after a course of 260 miles; presenting near the mouth, a celebrated fall of 40 feet perpendicular, and nearly a quarter of a mile broad, the effect of which is truly sublime.3 The Angermanna, like all the principal rivers on the eastern side of the Gulf of Bothnia, runs on the mountainous barrier which, extending N. and S., divides Scandinavia into two parts, and separates Norway from Sweden. It flows through Lapmark, and becoming augmented by streams from the numerous lakes of that province, displays near Weda, one of the finest scenes of water in the world.

Lakes.] Lakes are numerous in Sweden, and of great size. The largest is the Wener, 100 miles long, by. 60 of medial breadth; in great part surrounded with forests and rocks of red granite, and 147 feet above the level of the Cattegat. It is navigable, contains many islands, and receives 24 rivers, the chief of which is the Göta, which has been made navigable by the canal of Trollhatta. The Wetter Lake equals in length the Wener, it is of great depth, but is of inferior breadth, no where exceeding 25 miles. It also has several islands, and receives about 40 small streams; its only outlet is the Motala. Its elevation above the neighbouring waters of the Baltic, has been estimated at 292 feet. The communication between the Wetter and Wener, now in progress, if executed, the German and Baltic will be united, and the dangerous navigation through the Baltic and Sound avoided. The Malar is 60 miles in length, by 18 in breadth, and contains a countless number of picturesque islands; its fine scenery is almost equal to that of Locarno in Italy. Stockholm is situated where this lake joins the sea. It is united with the Hielmar by the canal of Arboga, with the Bars by the canal of Stromsholm, and with the Baltic by the canal of Sodertelge. The most considerable lake in the north of Sweden, is that of Stor, in Jämtland. The lakes of Lapland are very numerous, and many of them of great extent and elevation. They are generally distinguished by their romantic scenery.

Mineral Springs.] There are about 360 mineral springs in Sweden, among which the baths of Medevi, and the wells of Loka Säter, Ramlösa, and Rotteneby, are the most celebrated.

Climate.] In a country like Sweden, reaching from 56° 20′ to near 70° N. Lat. and so diversified in surface, the climate is necessarily various, but upon the whole healthy. In the south it differs but little from that of Scotland. In Gothland, as in the western parts of Scotland, the western gales, loaded with vapour from the Atlantic, frequently deluge the whole country; but in Sweden Proper these are less frequent, from the greater prevalence of easterly winds. The spring is a rapid and constant alternation of rain, snow, and frost; and of late years, this season

ae, or ä, pronounced o, in the words Umeae, Piteae, Luleae, &c., of itself, signifies 'a river:' Thus Umeae means the river Ume. In Swedish the word beck signifies a brook," a 'small river;' ae signifies a middling river,' neither very large nor very small; afterwards elv means a large river;' but no accurate writer of the Swedish language, when the termination ae has been added to the name of a river, would add the word elv: because this is evidently a pluralism."-Clarke.

The Dal is subject to very sudden elevation and falls: sometimes rising 6 or 7 feet in 24 hours, and on the whole from 28 to 30 feet, when the force of the current is so great as to sweep away forests and remove vast masses of granite.

has been observed to be much more intemperate than usual. The summer is short, but dry and pleasant, the heat seldom exceeding 17° or 18° of Reaumur. Autumn is the finest season. In winter, the Bothnian Gulf is frozen from November to March; and travellers can cross over from Finland, by way of the Islands of Aland, upon the ice. The eastern coast has a milder temperature than the western; but the warmest and most pleasant climate is that of Schonen.* The climate of Lapland is singular, especially as it affects vegetation. There, the temperature of the air is regulated more by the elevation above the level of the sea. and distance from the Gulf of Bothnia, than by the mere circumstance of latitude. Hence between the Bothnian Gulf and the Lapland Alps, in N. Lat. 69°, the temperature is remarkably similar throughout that whole tract. But in the maritime tract, or Finmark, which lies between these mountains and the North Sea, the heat, except in some sequestered vallies, is almost wholly regulated by the latitude. In point of temperature, therefore, Lapland may be divided into two regions, the inland and the maritime. In the former, the winter is very severe, and the summer very hot; in the latter the winter is comparatively mild, and the summer cold; the one being influenced by the temperature of the Frozen Ocean, and the other screened from its action by the circular Alpine ridge. Sometimes it happens in the Lapland Alps, that when a colder summer than usual occurs, the snow lies during the whole year; and all kinds of vegetables are totally destroyed, a few lichens, &c. excepted. The cold varies here from 15° to 30° of Reaumur. During the winter-solstice, in Lapland, when the sun continues for weeks together below the horizon, there is only a twilight of a few hours, instead of a clear daylight. These dreary nights are, however, in some degree compensated by the aurora borealis, which gleams here with uncommon splendour.

Soil.] The soil of Sweden is in general very bad, though there are particular spots to be found, which are of a superior quality. Much attention has been paid to agriculture, and the peasants are represented as exceedingly industrious; yet neither art nor science can atone for the natural deficiency of the soil, and with their utmost efforts, the Swedes are hardly able to raise a sufficiency of grain for home-consumption. The most fertile provinces of Sweden are in the northern division, or Gothland, where considerable quantities of wheat are raised. The loss of Finland has been injurious to Sweden, as the southern parts of that extensive tract are eminently fertile, and well-cultivated. The unhappy propensity of the peasants for ardent spirits, and the great consumption of grain requisite for supplying the distilleries, concur in rendering Sweden dependant on its neighbours for this necessary article of human subsistence. In Nordland, and Angermannland, though good crops are produced from a soil composed of sand and clay, yet they are rendered precarious from the vicinity of the Norwegian mountains, whence mists and frosts are engendered, which often destroy the crops when nearly ripe. The soil of Swedish Lapland is generally sterile. The greater part of the country

↑ Within twenty years the thermometer of Celsius, at Stockholm, has been noticed to fall 709 times to 5o below zero, of Fahrenheit, and once so low as 40° below that point. Severe, however, as this must be, it is far exceeded in Swedish Lapland. At Tornea, on the 23d January, 1760, the thermometer stood at 7 o'clock, A. M. at 443° below zero; at 9 o'clock, P. M. at 58°; and at midnight, at 82° below the same point. At Jukaservi, 2 degrees farther north, and half a degree to the west, the thermometer stood, on the same day, at 60° below zero; while at Utsjocki, 4o north of Tornea, and 3o to the east, the mercury sunk into the bowl, notwithstanding the thermometer was graduated to 147° below zero.