CHAP. VII.-TOPOGRAPHY OF DENMARK PROPER.

General Topography] In the political administration of Denmark, the kingdom is divided into three parts, the first comprehending the kingdom of Denmark Proper; the second the three duchies of Sleswick, Holstein, and Lauenburg, which belong to the German confederation, and possess different laws, constitution, and language from those of Denmark Proper; and the third embracing the Feroe Islands, and Iceland, which are considered as foreign colonies. The kingdom of Denmark, consists of the Danish islands and the peninsula of Jutland. It is divided into seven bailiwicks.

1st, Zealand.] The bailiwick of Zealand, or, as it is written in Danish, Sealland," comprehends, besides that large island, those of Amak, Saltholm, Scyerde, Amoe, Agersöe, Möen, Samföe, and Bornholm.

The principal island is entirely flat, and, except in a small part of the coast, very little elevated above the level of the sea. The soil is evidently a deposite of shells, mixed with sand, clay, and flint, and the whole covered with a strata of fertile vegetable mould. Here and there, at considerable depths beneath the surface, occur large blocks of granite,—a phenomenon which has given rise to a variety of speculations among geologists. Several inland lakes occur in the N. E. and a number of small rivers or Asas. The climate is damp and variable, but very mild and favourable to vegetation. The winter is long and rainy; but seldom severe enough to freeze the surrounding straits, which are only blocked up during winter by the shoals of ice from the Cattegat. Summer commences in June, and terminates in August, when high winds begin to blow. The territorial surface of this bailiwick amounts to 3103 square miles, and the population is estimated at 350,000 of whom about 96,000-including the garrison and 2400 Jews-reside in the capital.

Copenhagen-called by the Danes, Kioebenhavn—the metropolis of the Danish dominions, is situated on a low and marshy promontory on the east of the island of Zealand, where the island of Amak forms a small bay. It formerly belonged to the bishop of Roeskilde, and did not become the residence of the Court till 1443. None of the cities of Northern Europe equal Copenhagen in their appearance. Some of them, particularly Petersburg, have a few buildings which excel any thing to be seen in Copenhagen, but in general neatness they are greatly deficient. Wooden edifices, so common in the North, are here unknown, that material being forbidden to be used for building; and that mixture of elegance and meanness, which gives to the greater part of northern cities an appearance somewhat grotesque, is seldom to be met with in Copenhagen; the greater part of the buildings are of brick, many of them are of stone brought from Germany, and some of the finer edifices are of Norwegian marble. The circumference of the city is about five miles; it is regularly fortified towards the land, and is protected by strong works towards the

sea.

The town is divided into three parts, viz. the Old and the New town, and Christianshaven. The streets, though narrow, and consequently ill-fitted for the accommodation of the crowd of a metropolis, are in general well paved, and have on each side a pavement for foot passengers. There is a beautiful octagon, called Frederic's place in the New Town, ornamented with a statue of Frederic V. The royal family

"The land surrounded by the sea.

reside there. The houses of the numerous nobility are elegant, but were greatly surpassed by the royal palace founded by Christian VI., and unfortunately destroyed by fire, in 1794. The city has several times suffered severely by fire, but owes to that circumstance great part of its present neatness and elegance; since measures were taken to rebuild, in the most commodious manner, such parts as had been destroyed. Of these fires, the most dreadful was that of 1728, which laid in ruins 5 churches and 67 streets. That of 1794, burnt down 1000 houses. This was followed by another in June, 1795, little less destructive; and in the attack by the British in 1807, 305 edifices, including the cathedral and part of the university were destroyed, while upwards of 2000 were damaged. In 1815, there were five markets, three royal palaces, sixteen churches, one Catholic chapel, one Moravian, one synagogue, three Protestant nunneries, thirteen hospitals, thirty poor-houses, and 4054 houses, in Copenhagen, with a population of 85,000. Many of the streets of Copenhagen have canals, and a considerable commerce is carried on in the city. The number of inhabitants employed in manufactures is computed at 13,300; and the number of great commercial houses exceeds 80. The harbour is convenient, and capable of containing nearly 400 vessels. It is annually visited by about 5000 ships. The amusements of the capital differ little from those of other great cities. There is a national theatre, a philharmonic society, a large club, and numerous balls and masquerades are given during the season. Provisions and fuel are dear, and good water is

much wanted.

That part of Copenhagen, called Christianshaven, is built upon the Isle of Amak, and connected with the city by a bridge. Amak is about four miles long, and two broad; and is chiefly peopled by the descendants of a colony from East Friesland, to whom the island was consigned by Christian II. at the request of his wife Elizabeth, sister of Charles V. for the purpose of supplying her with vegetables, cheese, and butter. From the intermarriages of these colonists with the Danes, the present inhabitants are chiefly descended; but as they wear their own dress, and enjoy peculiar privileges, they appear a distinct race from the natives. The island contains about six villages, and between 3 and 4000 souls. It has two churches, in which the ministers preach occasionally in Dutch and Danish. The inhabitants have their own inferior tribunals; but, in capital offences, are amenable to the king's court of justice at Copenhagen. The old national habit, brought by the original colony when they first migrated to the island, is still in use amongst them. It resembles the habit of the ancient quakers, as represented in the pictures of the Dutch and Flemish painters. The men wear broad-rimmed hats, black jackets, and full, glazed breeches of the same colour, loose at the knees, and tied round the waist. The women are dressed chiefly in black jackets, and red petticoats, with a piece of blue glazed cloth bound on their heads. The island is laid out in gardens and pastures; and still, according to the original design, supplies Copenhagen with milk, butter and vegetables. The house of correction in this quarter of the city is under excellent management, and merits the attention of the philanthropist.

12

Roeskilde, at the extremity of the Roeskilde fiord, is a town consisting of one long street, and possessing a very ancient cathedral, the burial place of the Danish kings. Helsingüer, at the narrowest part of the As soon as we entered this building, we were surprised by the novelty and splendour of the appearance exhibited by the regal coffins. Instead of being concealed

Sound, consists of one single large street, but is protected by the strong fortress of Cronenberg situated upon a narrow neck of land projecting into sea. At this place the tolls of the Sound are collected. The town presents a very lively appearance during the summer, and contains about 30 commercial houses.

Bornholm.] The island of Bornholm is surrounded by rocks highly dangerous to the navigator. The climate is less humid than that of the other islands, and esteemed very healthy.

2d. Fünen.] The bailiwick of Fünen, or Fyen, comprehends, besides the principal island of that name, the islands of Taasinge and Laangeland, and a number of small islands lying along the coast. Funen is 340 miles in circumference; its soil resembles that of Zealand, but the face of the country is still less diversified; the surface-like the waves which have left it-rises and falls in even undulent ridges and vales, with the most regular succession and uniformity. It annually exports barley, oats, rye, and pease, to Norway. The impetuous Cattegat washes the northern coast whose appearance is as uniform as can well be imagined. The superficial extent of this bailiwick is estimated at 1325 square miles, and the population at 137,000. The principal town Odensee, is situated upon the river and canal of the same name, and contains about 6000 inhabitants. This town is said to be of such high antiquity, that its origin has been attributed to Odin. But the fact is, that its most ancient appellation, was Ottensee or Ottonia.

3d. Laaland.] The bailiwick of Laaland, or Lolland, consists of the two islands of Laaland and Falster, having a territorial surface of 652 square miles, with a population of 60,000. This district is so very little elevated, that its coasts are frequently inundated by the sea. On the S. E. there is an extensive sand-bank, and on the S. W. and W. two gulfs, sprinkled with islands. The soil is a fertile mould, upon a strata of lime, highly favourable to agriculture. The exhalations from the marshes render this country peculiarly unhealthy to foreigners, although the natives are little affected by them. The island of Falster rises a little more above the surface of the sea than Laaland, and possesses a more healthy climate.

4th. Aalborg.] The bailiwick of Aalborg forms a part of Jutland, of which it constitutes the most northern point. It consists of a large plain intersected by a ridge of hills, terminating in the promontory of Skagerrack. The whole appearance of this country is sterile and desolate in the highest degree. Its superficial extent is about 2850 square miles, and the population may amount to 144,000. The air is damp and cold, and the climate unpleasant but not unhealthy. The Danish language is chiefly spoken by the peasantry, but German is frequently spoken in the towns. The capital Aalborg contains 6000 inhabitants, and possesses a very good harbour, from which about 500 ships clear out annually.

5th. Wyborg.] The bailiwick of Wyborg lies in the heart of Jutland, and is the only wholly inland Danish province. Its surface has been estimated at 1085 square miles, and the number of inhabitants at 50,000. The soil is rather fertile; but in the midst large tracts of heath occur, and

in tombs, they stand open to view, in chancels or chapels, separated from the spectator only by an iron palisade; and as they are very magnificent, being covered with rich embossments of silver and gold, and the most costly chase-work, the effect is very striking. They seem intended to lie in state, so long as the Danish monarchy shall endure. There are, however, other coffins, which are equally magnificent, within the sepulchres of this cathedral."- Clarke, vol. ix.

some hills. The capital of the same name, situated upon the lake of Wyborg, contains 2,400 inhabitants, and is considered the most ancient town in Denmark.

6th. Aarhaus.] The bailiwick of Aarhaus forming the south-eastern point of the Jutland peninsula, is a low level district, chiefly consisting of a light poor soil. The population of this bailiwick is estimated at 100,000 souls, and the superficial extent at 1825 square miles. The town of Aarhaus, on the coast of the Cattegat, contains 6000 inhabitants. Its cathedral is considered the largest in Denmark.

7th. Ribe.] The bailiwick of Ribe contains nearly 4000 square miles; but as the diocese of the bishop differs somewhat from the political division, the data for calculating the probable population is more obscure than in the other bailiwicks. Perhaps 104,000 inhabitants may be near the truth. Its surface is flat, and in the interior presents extensive heaths and woods. The climate is cold and moist, and the atmosphere perpetually loaded with mists. The town of Ribe contains 2000 inhabitants.

CHAP. VIII.-THE DUCHIES OF SLESWICK, HOLSTEIN,
AND LAUENBURG.

THE Danish duchies of Sleswick and Holstein have been always distinguished from Denmark by speaking another language, and possessing a distinct constitution, as well as having reached a higher point in civilization. The laws of Denmark are not in force in these duchies, although there is nothing to oppose the exercise of absolute power in Sleswick. After that the duchy of Lauenburg had been given to Denmark, as an indemnification for Norway, Denmark entered with that province and Holstein into the German confederation; but Sleswick remained on the status quo. The connexion, however, which has always subsisted between that duchy and Holstein, enables us to treat the three duchies together in this chapter. The population of the three duchies exceeds 700,000.

1st. Sleswick.] The duchy of Sleswick contains a superficial extent of territory amounting to about 3540 square miles. Its features resemble those of Jutland. "That part of the duchy of Sleswick which a traveller must pass in his route from Flensburg to Apenrade is particularly interesting to Englishmen; because," says Dr Clarke, "the very name of their country, the features of its inhabitants, and many of its manners, were hence derived. It is called Angeln; but this word is pronounced exactly as we pronounce England or Engelonde. We were surprised at the number of English faces we met; and resemblance is not confined to features. Many articles of dress, and many customs, are common to the two countries. The method of cultivating and dividing the land is the same in both: the meadows bounded by quickset-hedges, or by fences made of intertwisted boughs, reminded us of Kent, Surrey, and Sussex. The natural appearance of the country is also like the south of England; being diversified by numerous hills and valleys, adorned with flourishing woods and fertile fields." Several bays indent the eastern coast; on the west coast there are several sand-banks, in some instances covered with soil, and appearing like islands. The downs are making gradual encroachments on the country, the sand being lifted in great quantities by the N. W. and W. winds, and driven inland so as

frequently to obliterate all traces of culture in large districts. These moving sands extend as far as Hoyer, where the marsch soil begins, and vegetation is protected by immense sea-dykes, often rising to the height of 19 or 20 feet. The interior of the country presents a light stony soil, The principal rivers are the Eider, the Nipsae, and the Treene. The inland lakes are very numerous; but none of them of any considerable size. The climate is little different from that of Jutland. The richer species of soil is chiefly devoted to pasture. The inhabitants are a mixture of Danes, Germans, Frises, Angles, and foreign colonists. This province is divided into fourteen bailiwicks, viz. Gottorp, Flensburg, Sonderburg with the islands of Alsen and Arroe, Norburg, Avenrade, Haderslaben, Tondern with the islands of Föhr and Sylt, Bredstadt, Husum and Schwadstadt, Lygum, Hütten, Nordstrandt, Eiderstadt, Stapelholm, and Femern. The capital, a town of the same name with the duchy, and the residence of the governor, is situated upon the Schley. It contains a population of 8000 souls. The town of Flensburg, one of the most important in the Danish dominions, contains a population of 6000 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in manufactures and commerce. Tönning, which during the blockade of the Elbe became an important place of commerce, possesses a good harbour and roadstead. The island of Femern, in the Baltic, though not exceeding 50 square miles in extent, has one town, one burgh, and fifty villages, with a population of 8000 souls. The soil is very fertile, and a considerable export trade is conducted here. The island of Alsen, is almost three times the size of Femern, with 15,000 inhabitants. It has many agreeable points of scenery, with well-cultivated fields, and large orchards, and is upon the whole one of the finest islands in the Baltic.

2d. Holstein.] The duchy of Holstein, when united by Charlemagne in 811 to his empire, and the Eider had become the Terminus imperii, was known by the name of North Albingia or Trans Albingia. Its extent has been estimated at 3400 square miles. Its principal rivers are the Elbe, the Stör, the Alster, and the Eider. It is divided into the sixteen bailiwicks of Ahrensborf, Bordesholm, Cismar, Cronshagen, Kiel, Neumünster, Plön, Reinbeck, Reinfield, Rendsburg, Rethwisch, Segeberg, Steinburg, Traventhal, Tremsbüttel, and Trittau; the lordships of Pinnieberg and Herzhorn; the earldom of Ranzau; and the two districts of Norderditmarschen and Suderditmarschen. The eastern coast of this duchy is high and hilly. It contains many very picturesque districts, and a remarkable chalk-hill near Segeberg. The climate is rude; and the country, on account of its situation between two seas, is subject to violent storms and rapid transitions of weather. Corn is plentiful; but the attention of the inhabitants is chiefly directed to the rearing of horses and cattle. The horses of Holstein are of a dark glossy bay colour, with small heads, large nostrils, and full dark eyes. Notwithstanding their great beauty, and the activity and speed for which they are famous, they possess great strength. About 6000 are annually exported to Prussia, Germany, and France, for the cavalry service and coach-studs. Many estates support 100 cows which are annually let for their milk, the landlord finding the animal in pasture, and the hirer paying from 8 to 16 dollars, according to the goodness of the animal. With the exception of Switzerland, there is no country in Europe where such a quantity of milk is annually raised. Dr Clarke was reminded of the scenery and inhabitants of his native country while travelling through this duchy, but that which