towns, are sold in the market, and they are even carried as presents to Constantinople. The melons of the neighbourhood are remarkably fine, and nearly equal to those found upon the coast of Syria. The whole country is destitute of wood; for fuel they burn weeds gathered in the steppes, as well as bundles of reeds and cow-dung: this last they collect, and stick upon the sides of their houses; a custom, observes Clarke, practised in the Isle of Portland, and throughout the whole county of Cornwall. The fortress of Odessa is small, but kept in good order.47

3d. Taurida.] The peninsula which forms the finest part of this province, had in ancient times the name of Chersonesus Taurica, and was afterwards called by its Tartarian inhabitants Crimea. When united to Russia, the ancient name was restored in the appellation Taurida. The superficial extent of this valuable province may be estimated at 40,000 square miles, and its population at nearly 450,000. This govern. ment has been divided by geographers into three principal districts, viz. The peninsula of Taurida; the Taurian continent, or Nogaian steppes; and the territory of Tchernomorski. The peninsula is of singular form. A range of floetz and limestone mountains runs along the southern coast, presenting an almost perpendicular barrier; towards the north they sink into the plains. The finest climate is found here, and the richest vegetation. "The ever-verdant laurel," says Pallas, " grows beside the olive, the pomegranate, the fig, or the date tree; high hills, masses of rock, streams and cataracts, verdant fields and woods, and the sea, that bounds the horizon, renders the landscape equal to any imagined or described by poets. The simple life of the good Tartars, their cottages cut in the solid rock, and concealed by the thick foliage of surrounding gardens, the flute of the shepherd, his flock scattered on solitary hills, remind the stranger of the golden age." Under the Greek, the Genoese, and the Tartarian domination, the peninsula continued in a flourishing state; but on its union to the Russian empire, upwards of two-thirds of the population forsook their ancient abodes. The principal town is Simferopol, with a motley population of 20,000. Caffa was once the most flourishing city in the peninsula. Under the Genoese it contained 41,000 houses: when visited by Dr Clarke, it did not contain above fifty families; but the population has been on the increase of late. The harbour is large, but not safe for wintering. Catherine, by ukase of 30th June, 1792, ceded upwards of 16,000 square miles of territory in this government to the Cossacks who had distinguished themselves in the war with Turkey; and from that time these people were called the Tchernomorski, or Cossacks of the Black Sea.

Cossacks of the Black Sea.] "The Tchernomorski," says Dr Clarke, "do not resemble the Cossacks of the Don, in habits, in disposition, or in any other characteristic. The Cossacks of the Don all wear the same uniform those of the Black Sea wear any habit suiting their caprice.

47 "Odessa will ever be a port of great importance to Russia, while she is prevented from laying her hands upon the Turkish empire; because, from its proximity to the Porte, a constant eye is kept upon the operations of the Turks. It has also the advantage of being so rarely obstructed by ice, that a vessel may generally escape; whereas, in other ports of the Black Sea, an enemy upon the ice may attack the ships as well as the works: this happened when the Russians took Oczakof. The extraordinary degrees of temperature in these latitudes are altogether unaccountable. Captain Bergamini informed us, that his ship was once detained five months in the mouth of the Danube, by the freezing of the sea. Ovid, during his residence near the same place, had witnessed a similar event." (Trist. Eleg. lib. iii. 10.)-Clarke.

The Don Cossack is mild, affable, and polite: the Black Sea Cossack is blunt, and even rude, from the boldness and martial hardihood of his manner. If poor, he appears clad like a primeval shepherd, or the wildest mountaineer; at the same time having his head bald, except one long braided lock from the crown: this is placed behind the right ear. If rich, he is very lavish in the costliness of his dress, which consists of embroidered velvet, and the richest silks and cloths of every variety of colour; wearing at the same time short cropped hair, giving to his head the appearance of the finest busts of the ancient Romans. The distinctive mark of a Black Sea Cossack, borne by the lowest order among them, of a braided lock from the crown of the head, passing behind the right ear, is retained even by the officers; but it is concealed by the younger part of them, with very artful foppery, among their dark hair. They seemed ashamed to have it noticed; although, like a relic on the breast of a Catholic, it is preserved even with religious veneration; and there was not one of them who would not sooner have parted with his life, than with this badge of the tribe to which he belonged. The custom is of Polish origin: but in this part of the world, it serves like a sign among free-masons; and it distinguishes the Tchernomorski Cossack from the Cossack of the Don, as well as from every other tribe of Cossacks in the Russian empire. The Tchernomorski are more cheerful and noisy than the Don Cossacks; turbulent in their mirth; vehement in conversation; somewhat querulous; and, if not engaged in dispute, are generally laughing or singing. The Cossacks of the Don hold this people in little estimation, considering them as an inferior band of plunderers when in actual service. But it may be said, the Tchernomorski entertain the same sentiments with regard to them; making remarks similar to those urged by the uneducated and lower class of Englishmen concerning foreigners; such as, that one Cossack of the Black Sea is a match for any three of his neighbours of the Don.' The Russian regards both with aversion, and affects to consider them as beneath his notice, and as unworthy of his society, for no other assignable reason than ignorance or envy. The Cossack is rich; the Russian is poor. The Cossack is highminded; the Russian is abject. The Cossack is, for the most part, clean in his person, honourable, valiant, often well-informed, and possesses, with his loftiness of soul, a very noble stature: the Russian is generally filthy, unprincipled, dastardly, always ignorant, and is rarely dignified by any elevation of mind or body."

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4th. Don Cossacks.] The territory of the Don Cossacks extends to about 70,000 square miles, and has a population, variously estimated, from 230,000 to double that number. It is one vast continuous plain. The Cossacks and Calmucks possess large herds of cattle. A rich Cossack is sometimes known to possess from 500 to 1000 horses. The Cossacks speak Russ, and profess the Greek religion. They are governed by atamans, or chiefs, elected annually, and an ataman-general who is chosen by the emperor. 49 Dr Clarke thus describes the Don Cossack:

"The Cossack horses are what would be called in England, good Galloways. Their masters vaunt very much their speed and hardiness. According to them, a moderately good horse will go sixty versts, or forty miles, at full speed, without stopping. They are seldom handsome."-Heber's MS. Journal.

The reigns of government are entirely in the hands of the ataman and his officers, who wear the most theatrical and splendid habits known to any people in the world. Their breasts are covered with chains of gold and gold lace. Their sabre is Turkish; their boots, of red or yellow-coloured leather; their cap, of black velvet, ornamented

"His dignified and majestic look, his elevated brows and dark mustaches, his tall helmet of black wool, terminated by a crimson sack, with its plume, laced festoon, and white cockade; his upright posture; the ease and elegance of his gait; give to the Don Cossack an air of great importance. There is no nation in the world more neat in regard to dress; and whether young or old, it appears to become them all. A quiet life seems quite unsuited to their disposition; they loiter about, having then no employment to interest them, and being devoted to war, seemed distressed by the indolence of peace."

5th. Bessarabia.] The government of Bessarabia, composed of the two provinces of Bessarabia and Eastern Moldavia, was only annexed to the Russian empire in 1812. Its extent has been estimated at 20,000 square miles; and its population, by Hassell, at 310,000. This province would admit of extensive cultivation; the climate is mild; the mountains are covered with fine wood; and the hills with vines. The Dniester is here a very rapid running river. Poppies are here extensively cultivated for the purpose of preparing an opiate with the seeds of the chelidonium magnum.

Ismael.] Ismael is a very strong fortress, built upon an arm of the Danube, about 33 miles from the Black Sea, and 268 N. of Constantinople. Previous to the storming of this place by Suvarof, the town contained almost 25,000 inhabitants; it now lies in ruins.

CHAP. XII.-WESTERN RUSSIA.

UNDER the name of Western Russia we include all the Polish and Lithuanian 50 provinces which have been united to the Russian empire, and incorporated with the constitution of that kingdom. It comprehends the governments of Wilna, Grodno, the province of Bialystock, the government of Vitebsk, Mohilev, Minsk, Volhynia, and Podolia.

1st. Wilna.] The government of Wilna consists of a highly elevated plain of about 24,000 square miles, with a population of about 1,400,000. The whole of this country appears to have been in very ancient times clothed with one vast continuous forest, parts of which yet remain wholly impenetrable to man. The soil, however, is generally fertile; and only in a few tracts do we find moors and heaths. The Niemen forms the boundary between this government and Poland on the S. W.; and the Beresina takes its rise here. The winter is brief, but very severe. Two or three days of a Lithuanian winter proved very fatal to the remains of the French army on their retreat from Russia. The summer is damp and

with lace and silver chains, or fine black Tartarian wool, taken from lambs in an embryo state. They bind their waist with silken sashes, sustaining pistols of the most costly workmanship. A small whip, with a short leathern thong, is attached to their little finger. The lower extremity of their lance is supported by the right foot; and from the powder-flask, pendent in front, are suspended silver coins and other trinkets. 50 The Lithuanian provinces are Mohilev, Vitebsk, Minsk, Wilna, and Grodno. The Lithuanian and Russian traditions throw little light on the origin of the Lithuanians. They appear in the 11th century under the name of Lettes, as tributaries of the Russian king. After the death of Vladimir, they freed themselves from the Russian yoke, and rose to importance as an independent nation. In 1235, we find Ringold, king of Lithuania. Mazona, Polesia, Ezernigivia, Samogitia, and other Russian provinces; and under his son, Mendozo, and his successor, the whole of Lithuania was recovered from Great Russia. Gedem subdued Kief, and Vladislav Jagello-who was baptized in 1386-united, by his marriage with the Polish queen Hedwig, Lithuania, and the subjugated Russian provinces, with Poland.

foggy, but upon the whole favourable to vegetation. Agriculture is the principal occupation of the inhabitants. Hemp and flax are here grown to a considerable extent. The forests are filled with bears, wolves, wild boars, and beavers. The cattle are excellent, and the breed of horses in this province are very handsome, and highly esteemed for light cavalry. Honey is abundant; the natives make from it lipetz, or white hydromel, a spirituous liquor, and malinek, a species of mead mixed with raspberries. The original inhabitants of this country have sunk very low in civilization; its nobility is confined to the Poles, of whom the higher ranks live in princely magnificence. The innkeepers in this province are chiefly Jews, whose numbers are said to exceed 100,000 in this province.

Towns.] The capital of this government is Wilna, built on the confluence of the Wilna-which is here a navigable river-and the Wilienka. The population of this town exceeds 30,000 souls, of whom 5000 are Jews. This city forms the chief winter-residence of the nobility. It carries on an extensive commerce with Memel, Koenigsberg, and other places. Kiernovo on the Wilna, was once the residence of the grand dukes of Lithuania, who also resided for some time at Troki. There is a magnificent convent of Kamadulenses at Friedensberg, inhabited by twenty-five hermits. This edifice was erected, in 1674, by Christopher Paz, chancellor of Lithuania, a descendant of the Florentine Pazzi,51 who, having in vain contended against the powerful Medici, left Tuscany, and settled in Poland.

2d. Grodno.] The government of Grodno extends to about 12,000 square miles, with a population of 843,000. This country, though generally resembling the preceding government in physical features, is, upon the whole, better cultivated, and more populous; neither is the climate so damp as that of Wilna. The Bog separates this province on the south from Poland. The breed of sheep here is considered good. Grodno, the chief town, has about 5000 inhabitants.

3d. Bialystock.] The province of Bialystock extends to about 3,500 square miles, with a population of 220,000 inhabitants, of whom a ninth part are Jews. This province corresponds partly with the ancient Podlachia. The inferior nobility are so very poor that they occasionally enter into the service of the wealthier members of their class. The Bog, which is here navigable, places this province in communication with the Vistula, and consequently with Dantzig. The plica Polonica frequently occurs here. The principal town, of the same name with the province, contains about 6000 souls, and belongs to Count Potocky.

4th. Vitebsk.] The government of Vitebsk is estimated at 17,000 square miles, with a population of 915,000. It consists of an immense plain, diversified only by a few hills, and here and there a patch of wood. The Düna is navigable for light boats, and commerce is likewise facilitated here by the canal of Beresin, which unites the Dnieper with the Düna. The capital, of the same name with the province, is situated upon the Düna, and contains a population of about 15,000 souls, a large proportion of whom are Jews.

5th. Mohilev.] The government of Mohilev has a territorial extent of 19,000 square miles, with a population of 964,000. There are fewer

This family, one of the richest in the Florentine State, became renowned in history by their conspiracy against the Medici in 1478. The failure of that celebrated attempt occasioned the extirpation of nearly the whole house of the Pazzi, with the exception of the Lorenzo branch, which found shelter in Poland.

lakes and marshes in this government than in that of Vitebsk. The capital Mohilev, is situated upon the Dnieper, and contains a population of 16,000 souls. Here the greater part of the nobility of White Russia reside during the winter. Its commerce is very considerable with Riga, Memel, Odessa, and other parts.

6th. Minsk.] The government of Minsk extends to 40,000 square miles, with a population of 140,000, being the least populous of any of the united Polish provinces. The country is an immense plain, thinly sprinkled with hills, but presenting extensive woods, and large marshes. This province, though possessing great agricultural capabilities, is one of the most neglected in the whole empire. Its capital, Minsk, contains a population of about 3000 souls.

7th. Volhynia.] Volhynia, an ancient Polish province, contains about 30,000 square miles, and 1,464,000 inhabitants. It consists of an elevated and fertile plain running along the declivity of the Carpathian Mountains. The climate is more mild and equable than that of any other province in the temperate districts of Russia, and may be compared to that of the south of Germany, only the winter is more severe. Agriculture is here in a very flourishing state, and the rearing of cattle is favoured by the extensive pasturages. The want of large rivers is unfavourable to commerce. Shitomir, the capital, contains a population of 5,500 inhabitants. It is situated upon the small, but rapid river Tetcrow, the rocky banks of which present many romantic situations. "Here,” says Von Balzko, "I first noticed a particular way of building, which I afterwards frequently met with in many of the Russian towns, rendering them of immense extent, in proportion to their population. The great houses are not contiguous to the street; but there is a fence with a great gate, and behind that a large court-yard, on each side of which are small dwellings for the domestics, and the stables. In the back ground is situated the elegant mansion, and behind this there is generally a spacious garden. M. de Ligne, some years ago, described Moscow as looking exactly as if three or four hundred great old chateaus had come to live together, each bringing along with it its own little attendant village of thatched cottages.'

8th. Podolia.] Podolia has a territorial extent of about 20,000 square miles, and 1,610,000 inhabitants. It extends along a declivity of the Carpathian chain, a low branch of which intersects this government. The Dniester forms the boundary between this province and Bessarabia. The climate is upon the whole mild, and the district proverbially fertile, notwithstanding the wretched manner in which it is cultivated. The Jews are here, as in almost all the other provinces of Western Russia, the principal merchants. Kamaniek, the principal town of this government, is situated at the confluence of the Smotrykza and the Dniester It is divided into two parts; one of them, the citadel, which is elevated upon a high craggy rock, is considered one of the strongest fortresses in Poland, and long withstood the arms of Russia in 1793.

Authorities.] The reader who wishes further information regarding the history, geography, &c. of Russia, may consult the following works:-Voyages and Travels of the Ambassadors in Muscovy, Tartary, &c., by Olearius, fol. 1662.-Lord Whitworth's Account of Russia in 1710, 8vo. 1758.-Perry's State of Russia under Peter the Great, Svo.