moat (which originally encircled the house and its appendages), it preserves its ferreted wall;† church; grange; mill; § fish ponds;|| pleasaunce;¶ and orchard**-all and every thing, which the proudest dwellers on their own estates, five or six centuries ago, deemed necessary for state, comfort, conveni ence, and safety-two or three acres were sufficient to comprise them all. The front, and principal elevation of Chalfield Manor-house (which has an aspect nearly northern) is striking and beautiful; and particularly picturesque, from its exhibiting several of those deviations from uniformitythose recedings and projections; abutments and angles; varied patterns, grotesque ornaments, and quaint devices; which seem either to have enamoured the taste, or gratified the whim, of the early English architectsproducing, altogether, a stirring effect upon the imagination: which is much heightened, by the grotesque effigies of "men at arms,' or squires, clad in the costume of their own times; supporting shields, swords, or matchlocks, and armorial bearings; and surmounting the points of the gables.†† *The moat is irregular, approaching to a parallelogram. Its deficiency in formality, arises from part of it being artificial, and another portion following the course of a natural brook. The wall was rather imposing than defensive. It spread itself merely in front of the mansion and church, and was terminated at each end, by a bastion; portions of which still remain. The grangia or grange was an out-of-door building; in which the produce of the grain grown on the estate, was housed for domestic use. § The molendinum or mill, being a fabric of the first necessity, was a constant adjunct to the manorial residences of our forefathers, from very ancient times. The lord of the fee usually erected one or more on his demesne, for the use of his tenants; who were bound to bring their own corn thither to be ground; a certain portion of the meal was afterwards presented to the lord's bailiff or miller. This obligation was called secta debita molendini, or mill service. The lower part of Great Chalfield mill is evidently of a very early date. The most ancient account of a water mill occurs in a charter of Ulfere, A. D. 664. The hand mill preceded the molendinum. Strutt's Horda Angel-cynan, vol. ii. p. 13. Fish ponds were essential as appendages to the rural dwellings of our ancestors; whose numerous fasts prohibited them from indulging in meat for a considerable portion of the year. The Chalfield fish ponds were extensive, commodious, and, originally, not inelegant in form. The pleasaunce. This was an open, grassy space, appropriated to the simple, but healthful out-of-door sports, pastimes, and exercises of the family. It now forms the green sward between the garden and the mill. **The orchard. Bad as the best of the apples were, of which the old English could boast, they, notwithstanding, highly esteemed them; and no country dwelling was complete without an orchard. Their cider, "poor, acid tiff," was manufactured from them; and being roasted, and immersed in warm, fat ale, the crab (or common apple), as we find from the old song in "Gammar Gurton's Needle," produced a beverage fit for “a monk." The present distinguished proprietor of Great Chalfield, Sir Harry Burrard Neale, Bart. (who immortalized himself by his firm and gallant bearing at the Nore mutiny), in that spirit of honourable liberality which marks his character; and with a laudable anxiety to preserve this interesting example of ancient domestic architecture, in as perfect a state as possible: has, at different times, expended considerable sums, to effect this object. Owing, however, to the southern main wall of the building having been taken down (probably a century or two ago), together with a series of apartments connected with it; the only remaining support of the ponderous roof, was the slight intermediate wall, which separated the northern and south-eastern divisions of the house. The consequence of this injudicious measure was, such a dislocation of the roof, and bulging of the south-eastern wall, as rendered it absolutely necessary to remove them altogether. In this sad, but inevitable demolition, the noble hall, with its contiguous little groined apartments and beautiful oaken screen; and the state chamber (fronting the north) with its elaborate chimney piece (inscrted in the time of James the First), met their final doom: "Alas! they perish'd all--all in one hour!" The most elegant features, however, of the northern elevation, are two oriel or bay windows, projecting from the principal chambers, or state rooms, at the eastern and western extremities of the building; the latter, of a more simple; the other, of a gorgeous and complicated pattern. This window indeed, is so rich in design, and delicate in execution, both without and within; that, with my imperfect knowledge of what is usually called Gothic architecture, I should have attributed its construction, rather to the time of Edward the Third, than to the reign of Henry the Sixth; the æra to which more competent antiquaries have assigned the whole of the mansion. A porch, or rather groined camera, (for it is in a line with the mansion wall) with its old, oaken, iron-knobbed door; its little jealous wicket; and its original securities of wooden bolts; forms the northern entrance into the principal passage of the Manor-house. On the right, are the rooms commonly used by the former and present inhabitants; and on the left stood (for, unfortunately, I must now use the past tense), till within these six months, a noble oaken screen, of tasteful and elaborate workmanship, corroded somewhat, indeed, by the iron tooth of time, but preserving all the principal features of its primeval beauty. It had a peculiar interest, from its being intimately connected with old spiritstirring feudal manners: for it supported the gallery, where, on gaudy days, when the "feast" was stately," and the "cheer" was high," "The Minstrel waked the warbling lyre," and either moved or soothed the minds of the numerous guests, who were seated at the long board, in "the lofty windowed hall" below. This noble apartment was the boast and glory of Chalfield Manor-house; measuring forty feet in length, twen ty in breadth, and twenty feet in height. It had an ample spandrelled fire place on the northern side; and two rich bays, opposite to each other, at the eastern end; communicating with a groined apartment on one side; and on the other, by a passage-room and staircase, with the state bed-chamber, and some smaller apartments, or with-drawing closets. The ceiling of this noble room was flat, or at least very slightly elliptical; divided into eight large squares by stout oaken beams; and each of these, subdivided into four smaller squares, by rafters proportionably less in size. The various intersections of this frame-work, were ornamented with bosses, bearing the crest of the Tropenel family-a bullock yoke—and their armorial motto, in old French : "Le joug tyra belement,” which may be freely translated, "the yoke sits lightly,"-a pregnant saw; but whether allusive to the mild restraints of the happy marriage; or to the tillage of" the broad lands" of the lord who adopted it; must be left to the profound inquiries, and authoritative decision, of future antiquaries. In the inner wall of each of the little with-drawing closets, above the hall, the ingenious and prudent device (common in similar buildings of the olden time) was adopted, of "having an eye and ear" upon what was going on, amid the revelry below. This was nothing more nor less, than the insertion of a stone mask, into the wall, rudely representing the human the eyes and mouth; a contrivance, by countenance; and pierced with holes for which the lord might not only be furnished with an opportunity of " ing the guests," when they were "merry in the hall, and beards waggedall”— but of judging also, whether, while they quaffed "the red Metheglin's stream;" or drained the black jack," sec Care, however, has been taken, to preserve and properly support the grand front ele. vation to the north; so that, for a century to come, the external appearance of the mansion (on this quarter) will present to the eye of the visitor, the same Gothic architectural beauties, as it had been wont to do, previously to the dismantling of the interior. Mr. Walker's drawings were happily made, before the demolition took place. He has given most minutely accurate engravings, of all the various missing, as well as existing, features. Mr. Walker's restoration of this screen, in his seventeenth plate, is exceedingly ingenious and skilful. of its "jolly good ale and old"-so highly esteemed by the cloistered monk-they rigidly adhered to that excellent adage, coeval with themselves, "Bee merrye ande wise." This magnificent hall, which had so often echoed in days of yore, to the sound of the harp, the laugh, and the shout; together with its contiguous Their apartments, is now no more. site has been recently covered, by comfortable modern apartments. The church (within 40 yards of the dwelling-house), though small and plain, has some features of great interest and beauty, and which seem to point to an earlier æra of erection, than that usually attributed to its ancient parts, the reign of Henry the Sixth.† Its porch is both singular and tasteful in pattern; and its crocketed spire, gives a pleasing richness and variety to the western end. The chief object of curiosity and beauty, however, is within a very elegant stone screen, now separating the chancel from the body of the church, but formerly placed in front of a private chapel, added by one of the Tropenells to the southern side of the edifice. Armorial bearings of this family, and of others connected with it by marriage: and numerous diversified and appropriated enrichments; render this piece of masonry well worth the attention of the ornamental architect.‡ The ramifications of the Gothic windows of the church, having been recently fitted up with ancient stained glass, the solemn effect upon the mind, usually produced by the interior of an ecclesiastical structure, is considerably increased. The little fabric has also a piscina, and a niche for holy water. One solitary tablet, of Gothic pattern, adorns its inside, on the southern wall, recording the memory of departed worth, in the following words: "Sacred to the Memory of Mrs. ELIZABETH PEARSON, daughter and heiress of John Leake, Esq. of Salter's Hall, in the county of Salop: relict of Thomas Pearson, Esq. of Tettenhall, Staffordshire, and mother of Anne (her youngest daughter) the wife of the Rev. Richard Warner, Rector of this Parish. Full of faith, hope, and charity: she put off this mortal, to be cloathed with immortality, on Thursday morning the 12th day of April 1832, in the 89th year of her age. Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord, from henceforth; yea, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labours; and their works do follow them.'-Rev. xiv. 13." The little church-yard bears upon its surface, the "mouldring heaps" of a few humble graves, the receptacles of all that was mortal, of forgotten “village hinds;" as well as three table monuments; one of recent, and the others of more distant date. Within the iron railings, which inclose the remains of two of the departed, the perennial flowers and shrubs, that blossom with every returning Spring, are pleasing emblems, of that revived and "flourishing immortal youth," which is graciously promised, to every sincere and practical Christian. It cannot be doubted, that the * Warton's "Grave of King Arthur" and "Gammar Gurton's Needle." The original Parish Register of Great Chalfield (still preserved) is one of the most ancient in the kingdom, its first entry bearing date January 1545, only nine years after the order for such a parish regulation had been promulgated. Burn's Ecc. Law, iii. 273. The MS. is small and thin; 91⁄2 inches long, and 5 broad: its three first entries (together with the title) are as follow: 1545. January 25. 1547. Sept. 1. Nativitie. 1549. June 14. Nativity. "THE REGISTER BOOKE OF GREATE CHALDFEILDE. In die conv'sionis Sancti Pauli, about five of the clock in the afternoone of the same day, was borne Elizabeth Eyre, in the yeare of the raigne of King Henry the Eight, the xxxvij. 1545. September the first, about foure of the clocke in the morninge, was borne Mary Eyre, Anno Regni Edwardi Sexti 1o. 1547. June the fourteenth, about five of the clock in the afternoone, was borne Margarett Eyre, Anno Regis Edwardi Sexti tertio 1549." The average population of the parish, including adults and children, householders and domestics, has been for some years past nearly 30. Two large farm houses, and one smaller one, constitute the number of its residences. Mr. Walker has given a fine restored view of this member of Chalfield Church. curious and reflecting visitor of Chalfield Manor-house and its appurtenances, will feel his imagination somewhat excited, when they carry back his thoughts to the æra of their freshness; to the inartificial manners of that early age; and to the scenes of hospitality and merriment, which then gladdened the venerable pile. He will, for a moment, at least, feel inclined to believe, that these "good old times teemed with joys, of which we, of the present day, have only the tradition:the simplicity of the rustic; the generosity of the lord; the feast in the hall; the Yule log, throwing a bright blaze through its vast extent; the harper and the mime in its gallery; and the stranger or beggar receiving his dole at the gateway; the charms of feudal privileges; and the dignity of local jurisdictions-are images, which will naturally crowd upon his fancy, when he stands within this magic precinct. But the dream will be a transient one: for he will quickly advert to the shades of the brilliant picture to times, when the Hundred were tyrants, and the million slaves; when manners were fierce and coarse, and pleasures were merely sensual; when prejudices were incorrigible, and superstition profound; when stupid ignorance was universal among the lower orders, and to write and read, were the accomplishments only of the gentry. Comparing this rude and disgusting outline, with the finished portrait of the age in which he lives, he will feel thankful to have been born in these latter and brighter days; when social intercourse is general, softened, and refined; when education is almost as wide as our population, and daily becoming more universal; when the arts are reaching perfection; when latent and untried energies of nature, heretofore unknown to Man, are now administering to his use, convenience, or luxury; and when Science may triumphantly assert, that she can measure the distance of the furthest fixed star, from our own little planet; and detect the nebula, which float upon the confines of created space. I am not one of those, who are scared at the much-ridiculed, but pregnant expression, "the march of intellect:" I gladly see the general mind progressing and developing; and I verily believe, that the issue will be good. " Major rerum mihi nascitur ordo. Knowledge," says our immortal Bacon, "is power; have added, that sound knowledge is and he might virtue also. But time must be allowed and we should not feel alarmed, if its for its diffusion and establishment; natural effects be not immediately apparent. Information-religious, moral, and useful-is now spreading itself through all civilized nations (more especially through our own country) with a breadth and rapidity, hitherto unexampled in the history of the world; and, assuredly, it ought not to be regarded as a vain hope, that this great fact, indicates an approach to that period, when mankind will be universally wiser and better than they now are; when they will feel and manifest, a practical conviction of that eternal truth-TO BE VIRTUOUS, IS TO Bradford, which latter was granted to the Abbess and Convent of Shaftesbury by King Etheldred, and confirmed to them by Richard the first and Edward the first; so that of its early history little or nothing can, at this remote period, be correctly ascertained. The first mention I find made of the place itself is in the Chartulary of the Abbey, Harl. MSS. No. 61; where it is stated that "Agnes de la Ferer," whose name occurs as Abbess in 1252, 1257, and 1267, "with the consent of the Convent conceded and confirmed to God and the blessed Mary Magdalene of Fernlegh, and to the monks serving God at that place, the gift which Martin chaplain of Wrekeshale made them, viz. a messuage which the same Martin held of them in the ville of Wrokeshale with half a hide of land, with pasture and appurtenances" for which they were to pay a certain rent.5 2 See the Chartulary of the Abbey of Shaftesbury, Harl. MSS. 61. 3 On a plea of "Quo warranto" temp. Edw. I. the Abbess of Shaftesbury contended that her right to the Manor of Bradford was derived from a grant by Richard I. and the jury determined that her title was undisputed. Placita de Quo Warranto, Rot. 47 and 50. Monkton-Farley, about a mile from Harl. MSS. 61. fol. 92. Wraxhall. This, however, I imagine refers to a small building which still exists in a field adjoining the Manor House, possessing evident marks of great antiquity; and from an immense chimney coeval with the building, which is of early-English character, seems to have been a Hospitium as the one at Chapel Plaster. And in the valuation taken temp. Henry VIII. the tenement at Wraxhall is valued at 17. 38. per ann. It is next mentioned in the 25th year of the reign of Edward III. when the Abbess and Convent of Shaftesbury manumitted Thomas Scathelok their Villain of the Manor of Bradford, and granted to him and Editha his wife, daughter of Roger le Porter, one messuage and two virgates and nine acres of land and four acres of meadow with appurtenances in Lyghe and Wrokeshale, within the Manor of Bradford, and common of pasture for their cattle upon 116 acres of land in the said ville within the aforesaid manor, and upon 100 acres of pasture within the township of Lyghe. It came into the possession of the family of Longe or le Long prior to the reign of Henry VI. but by what means I have not been able to discover. Camden in his Re 6 See Gent. Mag. for Feb. 1835, p. 143. 7 Escaet. de anno vicesimo quinto Edwardi III. 53, 2nd Nos. in Turri Lond. |