Fellowship. He was Proctor of the university for a while, and in 1578 travelled extensively on the continent. On his return he was appointed tutor in Greek to Queen Elizabeth and Warden of his own college. In 1596 he was made Provost of Eton, where he abode until his death in 1621, and where he is buried under a sumptuous marble tomb. He was knighted by James II. in 1604. "He is justly memorable," says a local chronicler of the last century, "for two Things: 1. His excellent Edition of St. Chrysostom in Greek. 2. His Foundation of two Mathematical Professorships at Oxford. As to the first of these he put himself to the charge of eight thousand Pounds to collect Copies of that Father from all parts of the World, and employ'd learn'd Men to make some Notes on divers parts of his Works; which, when he had finished, he printed at his own Charge in Greek only, not doubting but that his Labour and Expense would be very acceptable to the learned." It was somewhat of a pleasant coincidence that Henry Briggs, a Halifax man, should have been one of the first Savilian Professors at Oxford. He was born at Warley in 1556, and soon after Savile had founded his mathematical chairs at Oxford, he and Briggs happened to meet, and fell casually into a discussion, which the latter conducted so well as to confute some theory which Savile had put forward, "which so pleased the Knight that he chose him one of his Readers of Mathematics, to both of which he gave a liberal Maintenance." It used to be said that Daniel Defoe was born at Halifax, and it is confidently claimed by local historians that he spent much time in the town, and wrote "Robinson Crusoe" there. It was at Shibden Hall, a quaint old-world building a little way outside Halifax, that Sir Thomas Browne lived for some time, practising as a physician, and it was during his residence there that he occupied his leisure in writing Religio Medici.

IV

The immediate surroundings of the town of Halifax are distinguished by the picturesqueness and wildness of their situation, and by the extensive prospects of hill and moor which may be obtained from their loftiest eminences. Northwards of the town the traveller finds himself passing into the midst of some of the most striking scenery in Yorkshire. The district lying between Halifax and Haworth, going northward, and between the high road connecting these two places and the line of the Lancashire border, is a vast sweep of moorland, relieved by hills which rise to considerable altitudes. It is drained by three tributaries of the Calder, the Colden, the Hebden, and the Lud, all of which flow through winding valleys, the scenery of which varies from the romantic to the majestic ere they join the principal stream at various points between Halifax and Todmorden. A great part of this district is uninhabited, and the traveller who wanders about it, passing up one valley and then crossing the moors to drop down into another, will

observe that many of the houses which it contains are quite isolated. He will find here many of the quaint and picturesque stone houses which seem peculiar to the hilly districts of the West Riding, to the scenery of which their wide stone porches, strongly-built roofs, and general air of strength and solidity seems especially suited. They stand, for the most part, in isolated situations, sometimes in the depths of a valley, sometimes on the very summit of a wind-swept hill, sometimes on the edge of a purple moor, and in some cases they wear such an aspect of loneliness and utter solitude that it is impossible to avoid wondering what sort of life it is that is lived within their grey, storm-beaten walls.

One of the most interesting stretches of country in the district lying between Halifax and the Lancashire border is that known as Midgley Moors, from the highest part of which the traveller may obtain a magnificent prospect of the valley of the Calder. Midgley Moors are carpeted with heather, ling, bilberry, and cranberry, and their solitude presents a remarkable contrast to the busy industrial life of the valley below. From their highest point, Crow Hill-a title given to several considerable eminences in this neighbourhood-the principal landmarks of the border country are easily

perceivable. Stoodley Pike, a familiar object to all whose business or pleasure takes them along the valley of the Calder; High Brown Knowl, one of the most conspicuous heights to the north-east; Sowerby Crow Hill, rising to the west; and Blackstone Edge, on the verge of the county, are all prominent objects from this point, and vary in altitude from 1200 to 1550 feet. From Crow Hill on Midgley Moors there is a view of almost every bend and turn of the Calder between its source and the long sweep which it makes a little way beyond Elland. An even more extensive prospect of the hills in this district may be obtained from High Brown Knowl. This view, indeed, is probably unrivalled by any in the neighbourhood of the Calder, for it covers the entire parish of Halifax-a district fourteen miles in length by nine miles in width-and comprises the entire range of hills and moors surrounding it, several of which exceed 1500 feet in height. From this point, too, there is a very striking prospect of the valley of the Lud, a small stream which joins the Calder at Luddenden Foot. This valley is famous for its charm and beauty, and though it has plenty of evidences of industrialism in its brief course, the stream which flows through it is surrounded by woods and overhung by trees, amidst whose shade no suspicion of the adjacent mill or workshop seems to linger. The highroad which leads across the hills and moors from Haworth to Hebden Bridge opens out a particularly striking and impressive district to the seeker after the picturesque. In the valley known as Crimsworth Dean -where there is enough matter for the attention of the geologist to occupy him for many long days-the scenery is very remarkable, and has been compared to some of the finest views obtainable in the Highlands of

Scotland. Hebden Bridge itself, given up to manufactures as it is, and having all its quaint stone houses put in the shade by its great mills, is a place of wildly romantic situation, and the valley of the Hebden beyond it, extending past the picturesque rock scenery of Hardcastle Crags to the moorlands which stretch away to the Lancashire borders, is full of views and scenes of a striking nature. The most re

markable place in this corner of the Calder country is Heptonstall, an oldworld town standing on high ground at a short distance from Hebden Bridge, which it overlooks. Heptonstall is probably one of the oldest centres of population in the neighbourhood. It is situated at an altitude of about 1000 feet above sea-level, and commands extraordinary views of the valleys of the Calder, the Colden, the Hebden, and the Crimsworth. It possesses an ancient church, round which some legends of varying interest centre, and its parish registers go back to the year 1593. It is said that Paulinus preached here in the seventh century, during his pilgrimage from Dewsbury into Lancashire. One of the Earls of Warren and Surrey is said to have chased his runaway daughter and her lover into Heptonstall church, and to have slain the priest who was performing their marriage ceremony, and also a number of folk who came to the rescue. The ancient church of Heptonstall probably owed its origin to the Earls of Warren, and that there is some truth in the foregoing legend seems to be proved by the fact that in 1482 the Archbishop of York issued a faculty to the chaplain of Heptonstall which permitted him to say mass in some other place than the church. for four and twenty days, during which period the sacred precincts were to be duly cleansed of the profanation brought upon them by the shedding of blood in their midst. During the Civil War there was more bloodshed at Heptonstall as the result of an interesting contest between its townsfolk and those of Halifax. Heptonstall, small place though it was, had garrisoned itself for the King; Halifax had declared for the Parliament. Very probably feeling that it was not in the nature of things that so small a town as Heptonstall should take an opposite view of a grave question and go unpunished, the Halifax Roundheads set out one night in November 1643, intending to reduce their neighbours to submission, with the result that they were utterly routed and driven back on Halifax in great confusion, leaving many dead and wounded in their rear.

Between Hebden Bridge and Todmorden, a town which in certain senses belongs to Lancashire and in other senses to Yorkshire, and has of late been ranked as a part of the broad-acred county for administrative purposes, the Calder winds towards its principal source through scenery which becomes wilder and more gloomy as it penetrates into the heart of the Pennine Range, the hills of which at this point are mountainous in their height and character. There is perhaps no other part of Yorkshire, even in the group of mountains in the Ingleborough district, where such wildness exists as the traveller will find on the long ridge of high ground which. stretches from the Lancashire edge of Heptonstall moors to the north side of the vale of Todmorden, or from its south side to Blackstone Edge. Here are solitudes and wildnesses which to some minds must needs be terrifying, and are awe-striking to all. One great feature of the country hereabouts is the number of remarkable rocks which stand out from the general landscape and assume strange shapes and aspects. At the point where the

Calder, the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway, and the highroad pass in close proximity to each other through the narrow vale of Cliviger, there is a formidable rock which narrows from base to point, and finally projects over the yawning gulf of the precipice beneath. This is known as the Witches' Horse Block, and tradition has it that it was here that the Queen of the Lancashire Witches made her compact with the devil. Ainsworth in writing his imaginative romance of "the Lancashire Witches" made extensive use of the scenery and legends of the Yorkshire border, and has described many of the prominent features of the vale of Todmorden. On the moors going towards Stiperdrene there are some more remarkable rocks, known as the York Stone and the Bride Stones. Of the latter, the Bridegroom alone remains standing, and is a rock of considerable size, resembling nothing so much as a slender-necked bottle, the mouth of which forms an apparently unsafe base for the vast mass towering above it.

The town of Todmorden, so far as territorial matters are concerned, is partly in Yorkshire and partly in Lancashire, but since the establishment of County Councils it has been entirely administered as a Yorkshire town, and may therefore be regarded as belonging to the latter county. There are few towns in England which occupy such a remarkable and romantic position, and fewer still which at first sight are so unpleasing to look upon. It lies deep down in a valley, sheltered on all sides from whatever winds may choose to blow by the great hills towering above it, and ere it became what it is a town of great mills and grim, stone houses-it must have had something of the appearance of a Swiss village amongst the mountains. A little way beyond it, but across the Lancashire border, is the beautiful scenery of the Burnley valley, and the entire surroundings of the town are bold, wild, and impressive. From the hills which tower above its roofs and chimneys there are some wonderful prospects, but the aspect of the town does not add to their charm. That it has a history going back to days when the mill, with its long expanse of wall and monotonous rows of windows was unknown, is evidenced by its possession of an old church and hall, and of an ancient house called Scaitcliffe, where the Saxon family of Crossley have been in residence for hundreds of years. That it is also very new may be gathered from the nature of much of its architecture and from the pretentious style in which certain of its modern residences have been built. One of these, a house of considerable size known as Dobroyd Castle, occupies a singularly prominent site on the summit of a moor rising high above the town, and forms a landmark for some distance over the surrounding country. Landmarks hereabouts, indeed, are abundant. The monument which crowns the hill called Stoodley Pike, and which may be seen for miles along the valley of the Calder, was placed there in commemoration of the declaration of peace between Russia and the Allied Forces. At the heights topped by Cross Stone, on the opposite side of the valley, the excavation of an earth-circle recently brought to light some