Page images
PDF
EPUB

boat may be landed to view the cascades at Barrow and Lodore. Lodore cascade presents one of the most magnificent scenes of its

[graphic][merged small][ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small]

kind among the lakes. It is not a perpendicular fall, but a foaming cataract, the water rushing impetuously from a height of 360 feet, and bounding over and among the large blocks of stone with which the channel is filled, so that when the river is full, it is a striking object at three miles' distance. There is a small inn near this famous cascade, where a cannon is kept for the echo, which is very fine, especially on a still evening. To the left, the perpendicular Gowder Crag, nearly 500 feet high, towers proudly pre-eminent; while from the fissures of Shepherd's Crag on the right, the oak, ash, birch, holly, and wild rose, hang in wanton luxuriance. At the place where it is usually seen, more than half the height of the fall lies beyond the limits of the view; and in dry seasons there is a deficiency of water; yet its rich accompaniments of wood and water render it most attractive at all times.

Rather more than four miles from Keswick, we have the hamlet called the Grange, upon the opposite bank of the river. The bridge at Grange might be tabiat a need gool and odwyoung o

[ocr errors]
[graphic]

crossed as the dirossbasitused vasm ati to omba mus shortest route, dovo si doidw

but it may be also do pre

recommended to proceed forward another mile to the BOWDER STONEa fragment of rock about twenty yards in length, and half as much in height -remarkable for curiously

being

poised upon one

of its angles, like

BOWDER STONE.

a ship upon its keel, with a little more support towards one end. Its weight has been variously computed from 1771 to 1971 tons; but it is not merely for the sight of this stone that travellers are advised to advance so far. It is chiefly for the prospect here obtained into the interior of Borrowdale, which expands itself as far as Rosthwaite; beyond which, the vale is divided into two parts, the one branching off towards Grasmere and Langdale, the other towards Wasdale and Buttermere.

BUTTERMERE stands near the foot of the lake, and by Seatollar is fourteen miles from Keswick. Taking the vale of Newlands by the way, the distance is much less. In the vicinity of Seatollar, is the celebrated mine of Plumbago, or black lead. "It has been worked at intervals for upwards of two centuries; but, being now less productive, the ore has been excavated for several years consecutively. This is the only mine of the kind in England, and there are one or two places in Scotland where plumbago has been discovered, but the lead obtained there is of an inferior quality. The best ore produced at the Borrowdale mine sells for thirty shillings a pound. All the ore extracted from the mine is sent direct to London before a particle is sold." Buttermere is a

mere hamlet, comprising a small episcopal chapel, only a few ¡farmhouses, with the Victoria and another inn for the accommodation of visitors. De Quincy, who has long been a resident of the lake district, and a fervent admirer of its many beauties, describes this secluded spot. as follows:-"The margin of the lake, which is overhung by some of the loftiest and steepest of the Cumbrian mountains, exhibits on either side few traces of human neighbourhood; the level area, where the hills

BUTTERMERE.

recede enough to allow of any, is of a wild, pastoral character, or almost savage.

The waters of the lake are deep and sullen, and

the barren mountains, by exclud

ing the sun in much of his

daily course, strengthen the

[graphic]

gloomy impressions. At the foot of this lake lie a few unornamented fields, through which rolls a little brook, connecting it with the larger lake of Crummock; and at the edge of this miniature domain, upon the road-side, stands a cluster of cottages, so small and few, that in the richer tracts of the island they would scarcely be complimented with the name of Hamlet." The well-known story of Mary, the Beauty of Buttermere, with the beautiful poem describing (her woes, entitled, "Mary, the Maid of the Inn," has given to the village a more than common interest. As the melancholy tale is told, Mary possessed great personal beauty, and, being the daughter of the innkeeper, she fulfilled the duty of attendant upon visitors to the house. Among these was a dashing young man who assumed the aristocratic title of the Honourable Colonel Hope, brother of Lord Hopeton, but whose real name was Hatfield, and who had taken refuge from the arm of the law in the secluded hamlet of Buttermere. Attracted by Mary's charms, he vowed love and fidelity to her, and she, in the guilelessness of her youth,

responded to his overtures, and became his wife. Soon after her marriage her husband was apprehended on a charge of forgery-a capital crime in those days; he was convicted at Carlisle of the offence, and forfeited his life on the scaffold. Mary, some years afterwards, took to herself a second husband, a respectable farmer in the neighbourhood, with whom she lived happily throughout the remainder of her days. She died a few years ago amidst her native hills.

While in this district the tourist will derive pleasure from visiting Crummock Water, Lowes Water, and Wast Water.

A coach travels daily between Birthwaite (the terminus of the Kendal and Windermere Railway) and Cockermouth, connecting the Whitehaven and Maryport line with the former railway. By this or other conveyances Cockermouth may easily be visited, as well as Whitehaven, Maryport, &c.

Cockermouth is a neat market-town, and sends two members to Parliament. The ancient castle was a fortress of great strength, but since the Civil Wars it has lain in ruins. Traces of a Roman castrum, with other antique remains, are to be seen in the neighbourhood. Wordsworth was a native of Cockermouth, and Tickell, the poet, and Addison's friend, was born at Bridekirk, two miles distant. Maryport is seven miles from the town, Workington eight miles, Keswick (by Whinlatter) twelve miles, by Bassenthwaite Water thirteen and a half miles, Whitehaven fourteen miles, Wigton sixteen miles, and Carlisle twenty-seven miles.

Parties from Cockermouth wishing to visit the three lakes of Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere, will find it the most eligible way by Pardshaw, Mockerin, and Fangs, by which the lake of Lowes Water is seen in combination with lofty mountains, and the road from thence to Scale Hill affords excellent views of Crummock Lake with the surrounding mountains.

Whitehaven, a market-town and sea-port, in Cumberland, near the cliffs called Scilly Bank, in the parish of St. Bees, contains about 16,000 inhabitants. The Lowther family have large estates around the town, with very valuable coal-mines. Coarse linens are manufactured in the place; and a large maritime and coal trade is carried on there. There is a spacious harbour, giving excellent accommodation to vessels within it. "The bay and harbour are defended by batteries, formerly con

E

sisting of upwards of a hundred pieces, but lately suffered to fall into decay. These batteries received extensive additions after the alarm caused by the descent of the notorious Paul Jones in 1778. This desperado, who was a native of Galloway, and had served his apprenticeship in Whitehaven, landed here with thirty armed men, the crew of an American privateer which had been equipped at Nantes for this expedition. The success of the enterprise was however frustrated by one of the company, through whom the inhabitants were placed on the alert. The only damage they succeeded in doing was the setting fire to three ships, one of which was burnt. They were obliged to make a precipitate retreat, and having spiked the guns of the battery, they escaped unhurt to the coast of Scotland, where they plundered the house of the Earl of Selkirk." Among the principal residences in the neighbourhood of Whitehaven are, Whitehaven Castle, a seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, and Moresby Hall, built after a design by Inigo Jones.

St. Bees, in which parish Whitehaven is situated, is four miles to the south of Whitehaven. The church, dedicated to St. Bega, is an ancient structure, and is still in tolerable preservation. Until 1810 the chancel was unroofed, but in that year it was repaired, and is now occupied as a college for the reception of young men intended for the church, but not designed to finish their studies at Oxford or Cambridge. The grammar-school adjacent was founded by Archbishop Grindal. Ennerdale Lake is nine miles to the east of Whitehaven, from which town it is easily reached.

Maryport is a modern seaport on the river Ellen. The town is advancing in prosperity, and the population rapidly increasing; an excellent maritime trade is carried on between Maryport, Liverpool, Dublin, and other places. The village of Ellenborough, from which the late Lord Chief Justice Law derived his title, is in the vicinity of the town.

Workington stands on the south bank of the Derwent. Workington Hall afforded an asylum to Mary, Queen of Scots, when she visited the town.

Ulverston is a neat market-town sixteen miles from Coniston Water Head, and communicating with the channel of the Leven by a canal admitting vessels of considerable burthen. Seven miles hence is Furness Abbey, much celebrated in the monastic annals of former times. This

« PreviousContinue »