Not far beyond Rayrigg is Elleray, a spot dear to all lovers of exquisite poetry and genius of the highest order, as the former habitat of Professor Wilson, to whom, perhaps, Windermere owes more of its fame than any one else, Wordsworth hardly excepted. The house lies embosomed in rich woods, and has a glorious prospect.

From Elleray we descend to Calgarth, venerable as the residence of Bishop Watson, and possessing many charms of its own, and

commanding prospects of great beauty, though from its lowlier position, of less extent than those we have left. Every foot of the half-dozen miles betwern Bowness and Ambleside is delightful. At times, the lake is for awhile lost sight of, and the way winds through woods; at others, the lake is spread out before you, the road running at a gentle elevation above it or close to its level, and all along on your right, and full in front, you have the lofty fells finely contrasting in the deep brown and purple hues, and rugged crags of their higher parts, with the soft green of the lower slopes, and, whether lake or woods be in the foreground, making fresh, bright and beautiful pictures. Every turn

presents some feature of interest: a narrow stream gurgling amidst dense and rich sylvan scenery, or dashing wildly over rock and stone, abodes of the water nymph and fairies-delicious studies for both the artist and the poet.

Almost every spot that can be reached presents a good "station," as it is the fashion among the lakes to term those positions from which the more extended or celebrated views are obtained; and the tourist will do well to test his own sagacity by an occasional climb, instead of depending upon the directions of the guide or guide-book.

Low-wood Inn is a convenient place to take a boat upon the Lake of Windermere. From a place near the junction of the Skelgill and Troutbeck roads, may be observed one of the most enchanting scenes among the lakes; comprehending the most perfect views of all the islands on Windermere, separated by the most desirable spaces: the lake spread out into beautiful bays, and its shores ornamented with elegant villas, planted on various elevations. Excursions may also be made from Low-wood to Coniston, to Langdale, or over Kirkstone to Ulswater. Low-wood Inn is a hotel delightfully situated, and a capital centre from which to make a leisurely

survey of the lake. Here, and for a mile or so in each direction, a series of splendid views are obtained from the edge of the lake. They are of a different character from those gained from the mountain sides, but are not a whit the less worthy of admiration. The broad sheet of water,

above a mile across, clear as crystal, and sparkling like a carpet of diamonds, stretches far away, its margin encompassed with hills, now sinking in gentle slopes imperceptibly into its still bosom, and now

starting into bold craggy promied nences, or running into long, low

points, about which the cattle es love to linger. The fells' sides dol are thickly set with trees, scatbettered singly, or crowded into dar luxuriant hanging woods; and y everywhere along their lower to slopes are seen the bright white villas and cottages, with their park-like grounds, or smiling cornfields, and well-tilled gardens, and bright-green meadows. Yon half-hidden tenement, by the way, is Dove's Nest, inhabited for one summer by that Queen of en Song, Mrs. Hemans.* Behind and beyond the lesser hills that girt the lake, rise the sterner mountains of Fairfield, and Langdale, and Bowfell, and Coniston; and occasionally Scawfell himself may be seen.t

If the briefest excursion be made beyond the limits of the lakes, it

"The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into the hands of farmers, and there is, in consequence, an air of neglect about the little demesne which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see everywhere traces of love and care beginning to be effaced-rose-trees spreading into wildness, laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches; and I could not help saying to myself, ' Perhaps some heart like my own, in its feelings and sufferings, has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style, which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grass terrace immediately under the window, descending to a small court, with a circular grass plot, in which grows one tall white rose-tree."-Extract from Mrs. Hemans's Letters.

+ Scawfell is the name that has generally been given in maps, to the mountain connecting the heads of Borrowdale, Eskdale, and Wasdale. It is the highest ground in all this mountainous district. The several lofty peaks by which it is distinguished are known

way

will, of course, be towards the classic grounds of Rydal. The pleasantest thither is to saunter along the bank of the playful Rotha. Rydal Lake is a gem. Small enough to lie in one of the bays of Windermere, it yet is a lake perfect in all its parts. On the east is the little village, with its neat modern chapel, built by Lady le Fleming. Passing up the lane by Gien Rothay, you soon arrive at Rydal Hall, the seat of the Le Flemings, and. Words- dongdi worth's Cottage, on Rydal Mount. The Park of Rydal Hall is the finest in these parts. Large trees are rarely met with in these districts; but those here would do honour to a southern domain, while the views obtained from among them are such

as only Rydal can show. In the mind park are two far-famed waterfalls; based

the largest tumbles into a deep glen, edt ro era anoiden and though not wilder than suits

the vicinity of a lordly residence, has a grand appearance. But it is the lesser or lower fall that is the most famous: it is one of the daintiest and most graceful little cascades that ever delighted the eye.

Every lover of poetry will turn, with elevated feelings, towards the house once inhabited by the great moral poet of our age. This dwelling is just one of the ordinary, humble-looking, larger cottages, common in these parts. Its situation is one of the most delightful that can be conceived; such a spot as we can imagine the late Laureate would collect, in his mind's eye, the beautiful pictures that present themselves on every side, and learn great truths from nature. It embraces the whole valley of Windermere, with the hills on either side softened into perfect loveliness:

in the neighbourhood by different names. Rising from one of the lowest valleys, the highest point is 3000 feet above Wast Water. The lower of these points, lying to the south-west, is & bulky mountain the proper Scawfell; the higher, rising from a narrower base, has been called the Pikes

"Soft as a cloud is yon blue ridge; the mere
Seems firm as solid crystal; breathless, clear,
And motionless; and to the gazer's eye,
Deeper than the ocean, in the immensity
Of its vague mountains and unreal sky!"

Wordsworth quitted this sublunary scene for a brighter and a better on April 23rd, 1850. Mrs. Hemans, in one of her sonnets, says of this spot:

"Fair scene,

Most loved by Evening and her dewy star!
Oh, ne'er may man, with touch unhallow'd, jar
The perfect music of the charm serene!

Still, still unchanged, may one sweet region wear

Smiles that subdue the soul to love, and tears, and prayer."

The prominence behind the house in which Wordsworth resided, Nab's Scar, is the best point from which to ascend Fairfield, the mightiest in bulk and the loftiest of the Windermere mountains. It rises to an elevation of above 2900 feet, and from various parts of its long ridge the grandest prospects are obtained. From two or three different points eight or even ten lakes and tarns are at once visible. The mountain combinations are on the most magnificent scale. Far away they rise, range beyond range, a multitude of rocky peaks and swelling summits, surging over each other like the waves of a stormy ocean.

If the tourist wishes to spend a few days at Windermere, there is no lack of places of abode. Rigg's Hotel offers many advantages, for it is seated on an eminence immediately above the terminus of the Kendal and Windermere Railway. The views of mountain and lake scenery commanded from the windows of the hotel, are unsurpassed by any in the district.

Ambleside is partly in Windermere, but chiefly in Grasmere parish. This is one of the favorite resorts of travellers in quest of pleasure. It has been compared to a delightful Swiss village, the town reposing in a beautiful valley, near the upper end of Windermere lake, "no two

"A tarn is a lake; generally, perhaps always, a small one; and always, as I think (but this I have heard disputed), lying above the level of the inhabited valleys and the large lakes, and subject to this farther restriction, first noticed by Wordsworth, that it has no main feeder. Now, this latter accident of the thing at once explains and authenticates my account of the word, viz., that it is the Danish word taaren (a trickling of tears), a deposit of waters from the weeping of rain down the smooth faces of the rocks."—De Quincy.