about one acre square, giving the town a more rural-like appearance than its later rivals in seaside accommodation can afford to offer. The

population of Helensburgh, in March 1851, being given as 2230, at present may be double that number, as the inhabitants are so wholly given to house-letting, that each householder crams his tenement with tenants, when he can get them, as do all the other villages on the saline reaches of the Clyde.

Henry Bell having been employed, in 1808, as the architect of the baths at Helensburgh, became their tenant, keeping the establishment open as a hotel till his death, in 1830.

The problem of steam navigation being solved by Robert Fulton, Henry Bell addressed himself to prove his plans on the Clyde, and in 1811 employed Mr. Wood, of Port Glasgow, to construct a steamer of 38 feet in length, 11 feet beam, and 30 tons burden, which was launched on July 18, 1812, and named the Comet.

Ardincaple Castle, the residence of the Dowager Duchess of Argyle,

and the only property which that noble family hold on the Helensburgh shore, lies above the opening of the Gareloch, and is the first of a succession of fine and large mansions which adorn that pretty arm of the sea, known as the Gair or Gareloch, i. e., the short loch.

The shores of the Gareloch are of singular beauty; the little hamlet, sea-side mansions, and handsome villa-like erections at the Row being richly wooded, the site of the manse being specially beautiful; and most picturesquely placed are the cottage-like abodes of Roselee and Ardincaple cottage, as lying on the promontory of the Row; and upwards, on the Lochhill-side, are spread the country abodes of merchants of the west, of means sufficient to surround their sea-side houses with lawns, and woods, and verge enough-advantages rarely met with on the Clyde.

At Shandon, on the Row shore, there is a cluster of prettily-situate and full-tenanted cottages, with the finely-placed villa of Shandon-lodge beyond them; and, perched on a terrace-like elevation, has been reared the modern castle-like structure of West Shandon, the abode of Robert Napier, Esq., who has spent lavishly and judiciously on the princely pile, which has been for some years past growing under the chisel of his architects; and imposing as is the appearance without, as rich and artistic in decoration, pictures, and furnishings is it within, yielding proof of the wealth gathered in from the plans first worked out into use by poor Henry Bell.

The sail up the Gareloch is beautiful, as is also the drive from Ardincaple, by Row and Shandon, to Gareloch-head, where has long been the site of a well-patronised hotel, as the wharf where the loch terminates is close at hand.

The head of the Gareloch is beautiful; and sweetly situated are the houses which adorn its gently-rounded shores, the quoad sacra parish church and village inn improving the picture, which has the Alps of Arrochar, the mountain height of the Cobbler, and the Argyle bowlinggreen, "lucus a non lucendo," the least smooth spot in a most rough district. From the head of the Gareloch to the shores of Loch-Long, is within two miles, the road to Arrochar for Loch-Lomond, or for LochFine, leading up its shores; while another route leads southward by the western banks of the Gareloch and the peninsula-like shaped point of Roseneath, as the district is named, which intervenes between the Gareloch and Loch-Long.

Roseneath, some etymologists affirm, was called Rosna-choich, “the Virgin's Promontory," from a nunnery alleged to have hallowed the extremity of the peninsula; but as no vestige can be traced of its existence, the more ancient name of Rhos-noeth, "the bare peninsula," may be the truer title.

The parish belongs to the Duke of Argyle, the small estate of Baremnan excepted; and that "Macallumore," of the West Highlands, held there a baronial residence named " the Easter House," probably to distinguish it from the "Wester House," on Loch-Fine. The remains of the ancient house referred to stand where the modern stables are built, an erection which shows to more advantage from the Firth of Clyde than does Roseneath Castle, which fronts to the Gareloch, and was erected at the beginning of the present century. The estates around this magnificent ducal residence are extensive, the trees magnificent, the walks beautiful. The road which leads from the ferry at Roseneath, across the hill to the village of Kilcreggan, at the mouth of Loch-Long, is one of surpassing interest, from the rich and varied views afforded on its short

extent.

The numerous iron ships turned out of the Clyde building-yards are usually sent to the Gareloch for the adjustment of their compasses, the anchorage being good, the loch land-locked, and buoys laid down at the needful distances.

Glasgow to Oban.—The tourist takes his departure for this excursion from the Broomielaw harbour, passing about two miles from the city Govan, which we have already described. About two miles below Govan, on the south side, is Shieldhall. We pass successively afterwards, Renfrew, Old Kilpatrick, Bowling, Dumbarton, Cardross, Greenock, Dunvon Inellan, Toward, Rothesay.

At Loch Ridden, the course of the steamer is towards the southward; the vessel usually stops at the pier of Tynabruich. The Kyles begin gradually to expand as the vessel proceeds, until on approaching Ardlamont Point, on the mainland, the tourist has doubled the northern division of the island of Bute. The new prospect which now opens embraces the south side of Bute, the distant shores of Ayrshire, and the island of Arran. The peninsula of Cantyre lies on the left; and after doubling Ardlamont Point, the steamer enters the opening of Loch-Fine. Passengers disembark at the quay of Ardrishaig, a small

village at the south end of the Crinan canal. The loch extends about two miles further to the north, and terminates where the village of Lochgilphead is seen built round its upper extremity. The passenger proceeds by the Crinan canal, and passes the opening of Loch Craignish. A group of islands are next seen, and soon after the vessel sweeps round the southern point, the pleasant town of Oban is suddenly

disclosed, with its whitewashed houses curving round a semicircular bay capacious enough to float with ease and safety the entire British navy. The steamer is laid alongside of the hull of a large ship, which on being, some years ago, brought in here in a sinking state, after it was abandoned at sea by the crew, was converted by the thrifty ingenuity of the magistrates of the burgh into an excellent jetty. The first object to attract the eye of the traveller on arriving in the harbour is the Caledonian Hotel, a large and commodious building in the centre of the town, and whither, accordingly, tourists proceed with as little delay as possible, in the height of the season, to secure their quarters for the night.

The thriving Parliamentary burgh and sea-port town of Oban is situated in the parish of Kilmore, on the west coast of the district of Mid Lorn. It is thirty-two miles from Inverary, ninety-two from Glasgow, and 136 from Edinburgh. The town has rapidly sprung up from the condition of an obscure village, being of modern origin, and deriving its prosperity partly from the annually increasing numbers of tourists frequenting the Highlands, and partly from its being the seat of an extensive carrying trade with Glasgow. It is the property of the Marquis of Breadalbane and Robert Campbell, Esq., of Sonnachan, who have afforded every facility for its extension and improvement by granting feus for building dwelling-houses and marine villas. The resident population at the last census was 1742. It has an Established, a Free, and a United Presbyterian Church, a Scottish Episcopalian and an Independent Chapel; and the town unites with Inverary, Campbelton, Irvine, and Ayr in sending a member to Parliament. It is governed by two magistrates, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and four councillors. Oban is one of the most healthy and pleasant summer retreats in the Highlands, and during the summer months it abounds with strangers, either passing through the town on their way to other parts of the country, or making it the centre of their excursions, for which it is well adapted by its possessing throughout the season daily means of communication with one or other of the favourite places of resort. Many of the houses are let to visitors repairing to Oban for sea-bathing. Some of the shops are of a superior description. The central part of the principal street is built under the shelter of the lofty cliffs of sandstone conglomerate overlooking the town. One of the most conspicuous buildings is the Free Church, occupying a commanding site on the acclivity to the right of the principal street. This elegant structure is in the early English style, with a low Norman tower, after a design by the late Mr. Pugin, and was reared chiefly at the expense of the Marquis of Breadalbane.

The most interesting object in Oban is Dunolly Castle, a picturesque ruin crowning the bold headland closing in the bay on the north-west. Betwixt the town and the castle a huge wave-worn mass of conglomerate springs abruptly from the shore, betwixt the sea-beach and the cliffs, and is known by the name of Clach-a'-choin, or the Dog-stone,