queen of English lakes. They who may be tempted to pass a few days. in this spot will do well to take with them the first volume of his "Recreations." They will there be shown how poetic feeling, while it can add a

something

of the glow

of the auand

thor,

look upon the several scenes with a new in

terest for

the light in which he has displayed them.

The lake is eleven miles long, and above a mile across where widest, but the average width does not exceed two-s fifths of a mile. The greatest depth, which is opposite Ecclesrig Crag, is about forty fathoms.

It is fed by the rivers Bratha and Rotha, which unite about

half a mile before they fall into Windermere. In its course

the lake receives several small tributaries on either side, and it escapes by the Leven into the Irish Sea at Morecambe Bay. In looking at a map of the district, it will be seen that the lake consists of two great reaches,

united by a narrow neck just above the ferry. These reaches are very different in character. The lower reach is the longer, but it is narrower and straighter, and less broken by bays and promontories than the other, and the mountains bordering it are less elevated and striking in character. No part of the lower reach much exceeds half a mile in

THE LAKE SCENERY.

width, while in the upper there is scarcely any part so narrow. In speaking of Windermere as a picturesque object, it is only the upper part that is commonly meant, and only that portion is usually visited. The lower part has much that

the other, that those who can only afford a short time at Windermere will do well to devote it almost entirely to the part above the Ferry. Windermere is the largest of the English lakes, but is, at the same time, in proportion to its length, the narrowest. Hence it has been called the river-lake, but Christopher North has put to silence the depreciating term: "It's all the way down, from head to foot, from the Brathay to the Leven, of the proper breadth and length precisely, to a quarter of an inch."

The old approach from Kendal to Windermere, by Bowness, was the best that could be imagined for appreciating the beauty of its scenery.

You passed over rugged tracts of country dreary enough at the outset, but which, as you advanced, seemed at every step more adapted to introduce you to the fairy lake. By whatever mode the traveller comes, he must at any rate work his way upwards. Journeying northwards, the

scenery con

tinually in

creases in majesty and

in interest, while there

is something very far from pleasing in our descending from the grandeur of

the higher part to the comparative tameness of

the lower.

As the lofti

est mountains are all situated in the centre of the Lake district, the most exquisite views

can of course

be obtained

when the observer turns in that direction. Thus, as Wordsworth has pointed out, "in the vale of Winandermere, if the spectator looks for gentle and lovely scenes, his eye is turned towards the south; if for the grand, towards the north: Hence, when the sun is setting in summer, far to the north-west, it is seen by the spectator from the

α

shores or breast of Winandermere, resting among the summits of the loftiest mountains, some of which will, perhaps, be half or wholly hidden by clouds, or by the blaze of light which the orb diffuses around it; and the surface of the lake will reflect before the eye correspondent colours through every variety of beauty, and through all degrees of splendour."

We have said that the visitor will find it most profitable to confine his attention to the upper part of Windermere. By means of the steamboat which plies upon it, the space between Newby Bridge, at the foot of the lake, and Bowness, can be traversed with a small expenditure of time, and the scenery be viewed as well as such scenery can be in such a manner. The rounded tops of Gummer's How and the Cartmel Fells on the right bank, and the fells above Graithwaite, with the loftier peaks that rise from behind them, on the left, form a constant succession of new and agreeable combinations, especially as they are repeated with a softer lustre in the clear water: while northwards, the mountains in the far distance, that circle the head of the lake, are ever growing in magnitude as we advance; and with the hoîms (islands or plains by the water-side), render the view delightful, especially so where Silver Holme and Berkshire Island form a principal feature in the prospect; and the bold promontory of Rawlinson's Nab, shooting far into the quiet lake,

imparts vigour of character to the nearer parts, and a more aërial grace to the distance.

Bowness, which may be called the "port" of Windermere, stands upon a fine bay, where boats of various descriptions may be seen riding at anchor. The walls of the houses and gardens are beautifully decorated with evergreens and flowers. There are several hotels in the place, from whence there are fine prospects. The village has increased considerably of late, owing to the number of visitors. The houses lie clustered in a most picturesque manner, whether we look at them from the land or the lake. They are pretty much of the general Westmoreland fashion, built of rough limestone covered with rough-cast, roofed with large slates, and having the curious tall circular chimney-shaft, or some other of those peculiar forms that give so characteristic a finish to the houses in these parts. The church is a weather-beaten old pile, whose venerable appearance well accords with the surrounding scenery. In the east window is preserved some curious stained glass from Furness Abbey. In the churchyard is a monument to the memory of the excellent Richard Watson, Bishop of Llandaff. Bowness is a village of fishermen, who in the season act as boatmen and guides, and it is the head-quarters of the lake-sailing and rowing regattas. The bay has, consequently, a cheerful, bustling appearance, far beyond that of any other place along the banks of Windermere. Generally, during the season, it is alive with every kind of pleasure-boat.

The most comprehensive views of the lake are obtained from the heights about Bowness. It is not easy to say which is the finest, but perhaps the best general view is that from Rayrigg-bank. Noble woods are in the foreground; beyond, is the clear, smooth lake, with its islets and fleets of pleasure-skiffs, and all around is a belt of magnificent mountains. Now the eye glances on the bare, rugged pikes of Langdale, with Coniston Old Man and Loughrigg Fell on either side, and Wrynose and Hardknot are below, and the lake images them all with a softened grace on the dark pool-like surface. As we look upwards, the broad liquid expanse lies stretched out fully at our feet, and sinking away, in appearance, into the Fairfield-ridge; again the Belle Isle and Ling Holm give the tone to the landscape; and the woods beyond, and the varying outline of Furness Fells, complete the picture.