the time when the very idea of two days and two nights in a stage-coach, carrying six inside and full all the way, would have made me ill. But, travelling "brings us acquainted with strange bedfellows," and is the best receipt I know for curing a fine gentleman.

VOL. II.

N

CHAPTER XIV.

Toulouse-Jean Calas-Battle of Toulouse-French Politics-La Fontaine-Law of Elections-L'école RoyaleFrench Cookery-French Cleanliness-Criminal Jurisprudence.

November 12th. THE first impression of Toulouse is favourable though it has a deserted appearance. It has lost much of its consequence by the Revolution which has swept away its Parliament; grass now grows in some of the streets; and the population, which was formerly as high as 80,000, is now not computed at more than 55,000. It is built of brick, and this gives it a warmer look than the cold white stone of Montpellier. The bold line of the Pyrenees forms a noble background to the view from the bridge, which is one of the chief ornaments of the town; the Garonne being here above 800 feet wide.

Established myself in a pleasant lodging in the Rue des Cordeliers, looking due south into a large garden. Two rooms-30 francs per month.

13th. Explored the town. In the great square

is the capitol, containing the apartments in which the estates general of Languedoc used to hold their sessions. There are two public libraries, one or other of which is open to the public every day, containing large and valuable collections of ancient and modern books in all languages, with every accommodation for reading. At Toulouse there is an University containing at least 1,500 students, and there are daily lectures in chemistry, botany, and all branches of natural philosophy; and these, like the libraries, are thrown open to all who have an inclination to benefit by them gratis. These are resources which make Toulouse a more agreeable residence than most provincial towns; but, a provincial town is bad at best. If one must live in a town, it should be in a capital;-provincial politics and parish scandal are intolerably tiresome.

The promenades here are extensive and pretty; though the beauty of these is sadly defiled by the abominably filthy habits of the people. But this is the case throughout France; the streets and the public walks are scarcely passable, owing to the disgraceful and disgusting practices of a people, who set themselves up as models of politeness and bienséance.

14th to 18th. Rain. My neighbour in my lodging-house is a fine old veteran of seventytwo, whose history would furnish the materials for a novel. He tells me he was present at the execution of poor Calas, in the square of St. George

in this town.

The successful efforts of Voltaire to establish his innocence, and to save his family from sharing his fate, have given notoriety to the tragic history of this venerable victim of bigotry and injustice, who, at the age of 65, was condemned to be broken alive on the wheel, for the supposed murder of his son, without a shadow of proof. It was urged against him, that he had conspired with the rest of his family to put his son to death, to prevent him from becoming a convert from the protestant to the catholic religion, as one of his brothers had become before him. The truth seems to have been, that the son, who was of a melancholy temperament, had hanged himself.

Poor Calas supported the agonies of his punishment, which lasted two hours, with the most patient resignation; and while he calmly protested his own innocence, spoke with charity and forgiveness of his judges.

Nor were the blows of the executioner all that

he had to endure during these two dreadful hours; for he was also subjected to the mental racking of a catholic priest, who was torturing him with exhortations to confess his guilt.

At last the signal was given to the executioner to inflict the coup de grace; when the priest himself, convinced by the calm and steady denial of the dying father, addressed the surrounding populace in the following words, which seem to have been riveted in the memory of my old friend— "Voilà l'ame du juste qui s'envole.”

19th. Went over the scene of the battle of Toulouse. Soult's position seems to have been admirably chosen, and as strong as nature and art could make it. The difficulty of ascertaining the truth upon any one point, makes one doubt of all the details of history. The French, with their usual hardihood of assertion, would fain persuade you that the Duke of Wellington was informed of the events that had happened at Paris when he attacked Soult's position, and fought the battle of Toulouse; but that he was anxious to gather one more wreath of laurel. Napoleon abdicated on the 4th of April, and the battle of Toulouse was fought on the 10th. It has however been clearly proved in this case, that the officers despatched