24 Aldred........1060 39 Henry de New- [53 Lawren.Bothe 1476 69 Rich. Neile...1631 ark......1298 54 Thos. de Ro- 70 John Williams 1641 therham....1480,71 Accep. Frewen 1660 25 Thomas......1070 26 Gerard........1100 40 Thomas Cor 27 Thomas II....1109 bridge 1299 55 Thos. Savage 1501 72 Rhd. Sterne- 1664 56 Chpr. Bain- 73 John Dolben 1683 bridge 1508 74 Thos. Lam 28 Thurstan......1114 41 Wm. de Gren29 Henry Murdac1140 field 1305 30 St. William...1153 42 Wm.de Melton1315 57 Thos. Wolsey 1514 31 Roger.........1154 43 Wm. de la 32 Geoffry Plan plugh......1688 Edward Lee..153175 John Sharp...1691 Rbt. Holgate..1544 76 Sir. W. Dawes 1713 Nich. Heath...1555 77 Lancelot BlackThos. Young 1561| burne 1754 58 Zouch ....1340 59 tagenet......1190 44 John Thoresby 1352 60 33 Walter deGrey1216 45 Alex. Neville 137461 34 Sewal 1256 46 Thos.Arundel 1388 62 Edm. Grindal 1570 78 Thos. Herring 1742 35 Godfrey de 47 Rbt. Waldby.. 1396 63 Edwin Sandys 1576 79 Mth. Hutton 1747 Ludham...1258 48 Rhd. Scroope 1398 64 John Piers....1588 80 John Gilbert., 1757 36 Walter Giffard 1265 49 Henry Bowet 1407 65 Mthw.Hutton 1594 81 R.Drummond1761 37 W.Wickwane 1279 50 John Kemp...1426 66 Tob. Matthew 1606 82 W. Markham 1777 38 John le Ro51 Wm. Bothe...1452 67 Geo. Montaign 1628,83 Edw. Venables maine 1285 52 Geo. Neville...1464/68 Saml. Harsnet 1629 Vernon 1808 The Archbishop of York is Primate of | England, and to him attaches the honour of crowning the Queen. According to Dr. Heylin, the archbishopric of York is the most ancient metropolitan See in England, having been so constituted in the reign of King Lucius, in the year 180. As has been already seen, this see was, on the conversion of the Saxon Edwin, elevated to its former honour, when Paulinus was made archbishop, and then each metropolitan had twelve suffragan bishops; at present York only retains Durham, Carlisle, Chester, and Sodor and Man, though formerly its archbishop was metropolitan of Scotland. Warm and repeated contentions have existed for ecclesiastical supremacy between this See and Canterbury, which all terminated in this, that the Archbishop of York stiles himself Primate of England; and He of Canterbury, "Primate of all England; and the former has still precedency of all COMPARATIVE Dukes who are not of the royal blood, and of all great officers of state, the Lord Chancellor alone excepted. The yearly tenths of the Archbishop of York, as returned in the survey made by the commissioners appointed by the Crown, in the reign of Henry VIII. on the eve of the reformation, were valued at £161, and the value of the living, as stated in the King's books, of the same date, at £1610. In Northumberland, the Archbishop of York has the power of a Palatine. The Right Reverend Father in God, the Hon. Edward Venables Vernon, L.L.D. is the present archbishop, and was translated to the archiepiscopal See from the bishopric of Carlisle, in 1808. The Cathedral of York is one of the largest sacred structures in England, as the following comparative table, copied from Hargrove's History of York, will serve to demonstrate, and its magnificence corresponds with its magnitude : Salisbury. ft. ft. ft. 214 130 246 and Chapter, are contributing to repair the depredations which time and fanatical zeal have inflicted upon the statuary and the other ornaments. The Eastern or choir end, begun by Archbishop Thoresby, is more modern thau those parts already described, and displays a more florid style of architecture, crowned with niches and airy pinnacles. Over one of the finest windows in the world is seen the statue of the venerable founder of the choir, mitred and robed, sitting in his archiepis copal chair, and holding in his left hand a representation of the church, while his right seems to point at the window. At the basis of the window are the heads of Christ and his apostles, with that of a King, sup posed to be Edward III. In the niches of the buttresses again appear the statues of Vavasour and Percy. The great tower, or lantern steeple, is supported in the inside by four large and massy columns, forming four arches, and is finished in a style very much superior, though not inappropriate to that of the towers in the western front. In surveying the EXTERIOR of the Cathedral, one of the first feelings that forces itself upon the mind of the visitor is, regret that so stately an edifice should be inclosed within so circumscribed an area. Advancing from the South by the usual approach, the best situation for a general view of this structure is between the foot road, or passage into the Minster yard, and the Deanery, nearly opposite to the South transept. Over the clock, which is above the spacious flight of stone steps, is a large Gothic window of painted glass, and still higher, a circular window of exquisite masoury and richly variegated glass, in imitation of the Marygold flower, sometimes called St. Catharine's wheel. The summit is crowned with neat and elegant turrets. In this transept are seen a number of narrow and acutely pointed arches, with slender pillars, crowned with plain or slightly ornamented capitals. The windows are comparatively small, and their ornaments exhibit a marked difference from those which are seen in other parts of the building. Between this part and the western towers arise six The Northern side of the Cathedral is small pinnacles, originally intended for not less superb than its Southern front. The buttresses to the tower part of the nave. In transept and nave present a spectacle highly the niches are ancient statues, supposed to interesting to the eye of curiosity and taste. represent Christ, the four Evangelists, and Here also may be observed the exterior form Archbishop St. William. The South side of and style of architecture of the Chapterthe choir presents an appearance peculiarly House, of which the wonderous buttresses striking; the massy columns finely deco- and other decorations seem to indicate the rated with a variety of figures, and termina- age of its completion to have been nearly ting in richly ornamented pinnacles, the the same as that of the building of the windows large and displaying a beautiful choir; such is their appearance by day. By tracery, a small transept of the tower with moon-light, the effect here, as on all large its superb light, and the screen work before masses of architecture, is truly sublime; a the three furthest windows of the upper tier, kind of optical delusion of the most imall concur to render this part of the structure pressive kind takes place, and the towers strikingly beautiful and magnificent. and pinnacles of the Cathedral "acquire a degree of lightness so superior to that which is shown under the meridian sun, that they no longer appear of human construction." The Western or principal front, with its two towers or steeples, excels those parts already described; human skill could scarcely have produced any thing more complete in this style of architecture. This front has been cloistered for statuary, but many of the niches are divested of the valuable productions with which they were formerly adorned. The top of each of the towers is surmounted with eight pinnacles, and in the south tower is a peal of ten bells, unequalled, it is said, by any in the kingdom. At this front there are three entrances, the centre of which is by massy folding doors. Over the principal door-way is the figure of William de Melton, and on each side the figures of Vavasour and Percy, the benefactors of the church. The expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is pourtrayed upon the arch in fine tracery, and the liberality and taste of the present Archbishop, and the Dean The INTERIOR of the Cathedral corresponds in every particular with the magnificence of the exterior. The cross aisle displays a most superb specimen of the style of architecture which prevailed An the latter part of the reign of Henry III. The circular arch, that at that time was not entirely laid aside, still appears in the upper part, inclosing others of the pointed form. The pillars which support the larger arches are of an angular shape, encompassed by slender columns, a little detached; and the rich leafy capitals of all the columns unite to form a foliated wreath round the head of the pillar. The windows are long, narrow, and pointed, consisting of one light, or divided into several by unramified mullion, * Dallaway. and variously decorated on the sides by superb window. Tracery of the richest slender free-stone, or marble shafts. Be-kind appears in the windows, especially in tween the upper arches appear the quatre- that which occupies a large portion of the feuille and cinque-feuille ornaments, after-western front, and when illuminated by the wards transferred to the windows, and there rays of the declining sun, exhibits a granforming the first steps towards the beautiful deur surpassing the power of description. tracery which is displayed in the nave and The figures of the first eight archbishops choir. The windows in the South end are decorate the lowermost compartments, and arranged in three tiers; the uppermost com- above are represented eight saints. The esposed of two concentric circles of small cutcheons of Edward II. and the Saxon arches, is admired as a fine piece of ma- Prince, Ulphus, are placed under this winsonry, and has a noble appearance; the first dow; and the upper windows, though less window of the second tier exhibits a repre- sumptuously decorated, are elegantly adorned sentation of Archbishop St. William; the with imagery and escutcheons. Under these second consists of two lights, one of which runs an open gallery, in which, exactly over is decorated with the portrait of St. Peter, the pointed arches, formerly stood images of and the other with that of St. Paul, each the tutelary saints of the several nations of with his proper insignia. In the next win- Christendom; but most of them have been dow appears Archbishop Wilfred. The four displaced, except the figure of St. George, figures of Abraham, Solomon, Moses, and and his combatant, the grim visaged dragon. Peter, that occupy the windows on the The screen which separates the nave lowermost tier, are of modern workmanship, from the service choir is a curious and and form an honourable memorial of the elaborate piece of workmanship, the history skill and liberality of Peckitt, a native ar- of which is not precisely known. The style tist. In the corner, on the left of the south of decoration refers it to the age of Henry entrance, is a small door, which leads by VI. whose statue, tradition reports, once 273 winding stone steps to the top of the filled the place next to his predecessor. lantern steeple. Few persons in health and After his death, it is said, Henry, whose strength visit the Cathedral, without at some misfortunes the people commisserated, betime enjoying the prospect which this emi-came an object of adoration, and his statue nence commands, from which the surround- was therefore ordered to be removed; but it ing country, lying stretched as on a map, is more probable, that it was his successor, presents the eye with a field of observation Edward IV. who, being then the sun of the at once rich, extensive, and gratifying. political firmament, became the object of The North transept displays the same adoration, and that to him the homage of style of architecture as the South. The courtly devotion was offered, by removing windows are here disposed in two tiers; the the statue of his rival. For some ages the lowest of which consists of five noble lights, place remained unoccupied, but on the visit each about 50 feet high, and 5 in breadth. of James I. to York, he was complimented These lights are designated by the name of by being placed in the empty cell. Another the "Five Sisters," from a tradition, not conjecture is, that this screen originally bevery well supported, that five maiden sisters longed to the Abbey of St. Mary, at the were at the expense of their erection. The manor, and that King James I. presented it ich stained glass represents embroidery, to the Cathedral, in compliment to whom the and there is a small border of stained glass Dean and Chapter placed his statue in the round the edge. The baptismal font of the niche which was formerly occupied by the Cathedral, formed of dark shell variegated unfortunate Henry. In the course of the marble, stands in the western aisle. Architecture perhaps never produced, nor can imagination easily conceive a vista of greater magnificence and beauty, than that which is seen at the western entrance of the Cathedral. The best point of observation is under the central tower, or lantern steeple. Here may at once be seen the statuary screen, the several painted windows, and the lengthened aisles and lofty columns. The screen which separates the nave from the choir, rising only just high enough to form a support for the organ, does not intercept the view of the eastern end of the church with its columns, its arches, and its judicious repairs which this screen has undergone, the statue of James has been transferred to Ripon Minster, and a well executed figure of Henry VI. by Mr. Michael Taylor, a sculptor of considerable eminence in York, is placed in the station originally enjoyed by that monarch. The organ is now placed over the entrance into the choir, which was its original situation. At the instance of Charles I. who contributed £1000 for the erection of an organ, and for other purposes, it was placed opposite the bishop's throne, to afford a more complete view of the east window from the body of the nave; but in the year of the revolution it was removed back to its ancient situation which it now occupies, and by its solemn peals, swelling through the lofty arches, gives to the devout mind some faint conception of the celestial choir. In the architecture of the choir a variation from that of the nave is perceptible. The roof displays more tracery; an elegant kind of festoon work descends from the capitals of the pillars from which the vaulting springs; through every part is seen a great profusion of ornaments; and the whole exhibits a near approach to the highly florid style which prevailed before the end of the 15th century. The ancient wood work of the choir yet remains. It is carved with pinnacles of different heights, and pedestals, whereon, probably, once were images of wood for greater decoration; if so, they have disappeared. Behind these are galleries, and regular pews; and under the front of them are the stalls for the canons and other ecclesiastical officers, beginning with the Dean's stall to the right, and the Precentor's to the left. The Cathedra, or throne of the archbishop, is situated at the end of the prebendal stalls, on the south side, and the pulpit is placed opposite. On the left of the throne the Lord Mayor and Aldermen have their seats, and the Judges of assize sit opposite them, near the pulpit. In the middle of the area there is a small pillar of brass, supported by four lions, on the top of which is an eagle of the same metal, standing upon a globe, and which, with expanded wings, receives the service Bible for the lessons. The ascent from the nave through the choir to the high altar is by a flight of fifteen steps. Here a stone screen of excellent Gothic architecture, about forty-nine feet long by twenty-eight feet high, presents itself. This screen was formerly obscured by a wooden screen and gallery, which were swept away in the year 1726, by order of Dean Finch, by whose direction the screen, which had before been covered with tapestry, was glazed with plate glass protected by copper bars. Under the altar is a vault, commonly called the Crypt, with an entrance from the north and south aisles by iron grated doors. While exploring this ancient subterraneous chantry we survey part of the old minster, and are carried back to the time of King Edwin, the first royal Northumbrian convert to Christianity. The windows of the choir shed their richly varied light through the numerous figures of kings, prelates, and saints. Those of the small transepts are remarkable for their height and elegance, reaching almost to the roof and divided into one hundred and eight compartments, each of which depicts a portion of scripture history. But the eastern window is the masterpiece, and perhaps stands unrivalled for magnitude, beauty, and magnificence. This window is nearly the full breadth and height of the middle choir, and is seventyfive feet high and thirty-five wide. The upper part exhibits a piece of ample and beautiful tracery. Below are one hundred and seventeen compartments occupied with representations of the Supreme Being, of monarchs, priests, and saints, and of most of the principal events in the scripture records. The glazing of this window was commenced in the year 1405, at the cost of the dean and chapter, by John Thornton, of Coventry, who, in consideration of his superior skill and application, was to receive the weekly sum of four shillings, with the further payment of one hundred shillings a year, for his labour, which was completed in less than three years! To the south of this magnificent window is exhibited in painted glass the annunciation; or, the meeting of Mary and Elizabeth, from the design of Sebastian del Piombos în figure as large as life. This window was originally brought from the church of St. Rouen, in Normandy, and was presented to the dean and chapter of York, in the year 1804, by the Earl of Carlisle, whose arms, garter, coronet, and crest, fill up the compartments, above and below, and perpetuate the remembrance of the noble donor's munificence. The present religious services performed in the Cathedral, are the morning prayers daily at seven o'clock, in the vestry, in which the ecclesiastical courts are held. The cathedral service is performed in the choir at ten o'clock in the forenoon, when an anthem is sung, unless there be a sermon or litany. The evening prayers are performed every day in the week, at three o'clock in the afternoon in winter, and four o'clock in summer, in which an anthem is performed. On Sunday the service commences at ten o'clock in the morning, when a sermon is preached, and at four in the afternoon, when an anthem is sung. On Wednesdays and Fridays in Advent and Lent, and during the whole of Passion week, the choral service and singing are intermitted both morning and evening. The chapter-house is a magnificent structure. Its form is an octagan of sixtythree feet in diameter, and, reckoning to the centre knot in the roof, sixty-seven feet ten inches in height. This vast space is not interrupted by a single pillar, the roof being wholly supported by a single pin geometrically placed in the centre. The stalls for the canons, forty-four in number, ranged along the sides, are highly finished in stone, and curiously wrought canopies are supported ti dayis to pardon. Robert by small and elegant columns of Petworth Strensal. marble. Over these runs a narrow gallery, which extends quite round the building. The capitals of the columns have a great variety of carved fancies upon them, with ludicrous, and not always chaste conceits, of the witty artists of the thirteenth century. The entrance from the north transept is in the form of a mason's square. Every other side of the octagon is adorned with a window rich in tracery and figured glass, rising from the part first above the stalls, and reaching to the roof. Of this edifice, particularly of the chapter-house, Eneus Sylvanus, afterwards Pius II. said—“ It is famous all over the world for its magnificence and workman-interred here in effigy. There is also a suship, but especially for a fine lightsome chapel, with shining walls and small thin waisted pillars quite round;" and an old monkish verse, with a free translation of which this history of the Cathedral is introduced, bestows upon it this encomium:— On the dissolution of the Cordwainers' Company, in the year 1808, this cup was presented by the fraternity to Mr. Sherif Hornby, of York, as a mark of their esteem, it to the Cathedral to swell the number of the and he soon afterwards generously presented curiosities. There is also shown here a state "Ut Rosa flos florum "Sic est domus ista domorum." canopy of gold tissue, given by the city in honour of James I. on his first visit to York. rings found in the graves of the archbishops are exhibited; together with a wooden head, found near the grave of Archbishop Rotherham, who, having died of the plague, was Three silver chalices and several ancient perb postoral staff of silver, about seven feet long, with the figure of the Virgin and the infant placed under the crook. This staff was given by Catharine, of Portugal, queen dowager of England, to her confessor, when he was nominated to be catholic archbishop of York, by James II. in 1689; and it is said, that when he marched in procesThe vestries, which are situated on the sion to the minster, the Earl of Darnley south side of the choir, contain several curi-wrested it from him, and deposited it in the osities, which are shown and explained by hands of the dean or chapter, in whose posthe vergers; but the most important of these session it has ever since remained. relics is a large ancient horn, presented by antique chair, as old as the cathedral, and in Prince Ulphus, and bearing the following which several of the kings of England have inscription, in capital letters :been crowned, is still preserved here, and placed within the altar rails, when the archbishop officiates, for his use. These, with some less important relics, form the curiosities at present exhibited in the vestries. CORNU HOC,ULPHUS, IN OCCIDENTALI PARTE ET REDDITIBUS SUIS OLIM DONAVIT. By this horn, which is made of an elephant's tooth, curiously carved, and was originally mounted with gold, the church of York holds several lands of great value, a little to the eastward of the city, which are called "Terræ Ulphi." About the time of the reformation this antique vessel disappeared, till soon after the restoration. A large and elegant bowl, originally presented by Archbishop Scroope, in 1398, to the company of Cordwainers of this city is preserved here. In the middle of the bowl is the Cordwainers' arms, richly embossed-it is edged with silver double gilt, and stands upon three silver feet; round the rim, in the old English character, is the following inscription:— Richarde Arche beschope Scrope grant unto all those that drinkis of this cope I Lti dayis to pardon. Robert Eobson beschope mesm grant in same forme aforesaide An The Adjoining to the council room is the ancient treasury, which, before the reformation, contained wealth of inestimable value. At that period all its wealth was seized and converted to secular uses. library was formerly in a room adjoining the western side of the south transept, but it is now removed to a building which was anciently a chapel belonging to the archiepiscopal palace, situated at a small distance from the north-west corner of the cathedral, and having undergone a complete repair, under the judicious direction of the very reverend the Dean, exhibits a fine specimen of the early age of Anglo-Normanic architecture. The destruction of the ancient library by repeated fires left this cathedral without so important an appendage, till the early part of the seventeenth century, when Mrs. Matthews, relict of the right reverend the archbishop of that name, presented her husband's valuable collection of books, consisting of upwards of three thousand volumes. To these has since been added a small, but select collection, bequeathed by the will of Mrs. Fothergill, relict of the Reverend |