and variously decorated on the sides by slender free-stone, or marble shafts. Be tween the upper arches appear the quatrefeuille and cinque-feuille ornaments, afterwards transferred to the windows, and there forming the first steps towards the beautiful tracery which is displayed in the nave and choir. The windows in the South end are arranged in three tiers; the uppermost composed of two concentric circles of small arches, is admired as a fine piece of masonry, and has a noble appearance; the first window of the second tier exhibits a representation of Archbishop St. William; the second consists of two lights, one of which is decorated with the portrait of St. Peter, and the other with that of St. Paul, each with his proper insignia. In the next window appears Archbishop Wilfred. The four figures of Abraham, Solomon, Moses, and Peter, that occupy the windows on the lowermost tier, are of modern workmanship, and form an honourable memorial of the skill and liberality of Peekitt, a native artist. In the corner, on the left of the south entrance, is a small door, which leads by 273 winding stone steps to the top of the lantern steeple. Few persons in health and strength visit the Cathedral, without at some time enjoying the prospect which this eminence commands, from which the surrounding country, lying stretched as on a map, presents the eye with a field of observation at once rich, extensive, and gratifying. The North transept displays the same style of architecture as the South. The windows are here disposed in two tiers: the lowest of which consists of five noble lights, each about 50 feet high, and 5 in breadth. These lights are designated by the name of the "Five Sisters," from a tradition, not wery well supported, that five maiden sisters were at the expense of their erection. The rich stained glass represents embroidery, and there is a small border of stained glass round the edge. The baptismal font of the Cathedral, formed of dark shell variegated marble, stands in the western aisle. Architecture perhaps never produced, nor can imagination easily conceive a vista of greater magnificence and beauty, than that which is seen at the western entrance of superb window. Tracery of the richest kind appears in the windows, especially in that which occupies a large portion of the western front, and when illuminated by the rays of the declining sun, exhibits a grandeur surpassing the power of description. The figures of the first eight archbishops decorate the lowermost compartments, and above are represented eight saints. The escutcheons of Edward II. and the Saxon Prince, Ulphus, are placed under this window; and the upper windows, though less sumptuously decorated, are elegantly adorned with imagery and escutcheons. Under these runs an open gallery, in which, exactly over the pointed arches, formerly stood images of the tutelary saints of the several nations of Christendom; but most of them have been displaced, except the figure of St. George, and his combatant, the grim visaged dragon. The screen which separates the nave from the service choir is a curious and elaborate piece of workmanship, the history of which is not precisely known. The style of decoration refers it to the age of Henry VI. whose statue, tradition reports, once filled the place next to his predecessor. After his death, it is said, Henry, whose misfortunes the people commisserated, became an object of adoration, and his statue was therefore ordered to be removed; but it is more probable, that it was his successor, Edward IV. who, being then the sun of the political firmament, became the object of adoration, and that to him the homage of courtly devotion was offered, by removing the statue of his rival. For some ages the place remained unoccupied, but on the visit of James I. to York, he was complimented by being placed in the empty cell. Another conjecture is, that this screen originally belonged to the Abbey of St. Mary, at the manor, and that King James I. presented it to the Cathedral, in compliment to whom the Dean and Chapter placed his statue in the niche which was formerly occupied by the unfortunate Henry. In the course of the judicious repairs which this screen has undergone, the statue of James has been transferred to Ripon. Minster, and a well executed figure of Henry VI. by Mr. Michael Taylor, a sculptor of considerable the Cathedral. The best point of observa- eminence in York, is placed in the station tion is under the central tower, or lan- originally enjoyed by that monarch. tern steeple. Here may at once be seen the The organ is now placed over the enstatuary screen, the several painted windows, trance into the choir, which was its original and the lengthened aisles and lofty columns. situation. At the instance of Charles I. who The screen which separates the nave from contributed £1000 for the erection of an the choir, rising ouly just high enough to organ, and for other purposes, it was placed form a support for the organ, does not inter- opposite the bishop's throne, to afford a cept the view of the eastern end of the more complete view of the east window from church with its columns, its arches, and its the body of the nave; but in the year of the revolution it was removed back to its ancient situation which it now occupies, and by its solemn peals, swelling through the lofty arches, gives to the devout mind some faint conception of the celestial choir. In the architecture of the choir a variation from that of the nave is perceptible. The roof displays more tracery; an elegant kind of festoon work descends from the capitals of the pillars from which the vaulting springs; through every part is seen a great profusion of ornaments; and the whole exhibits a near approach to the highly florid style which prevailed before the end of the 15th century. The ancient wood work of the choir yet remains. It is carved with pinnacles of different heights, and pedestals, whereon, probably, once were images of wood for greater decoration; if so, they have disappeared. Behind these are galleries, and regular pews; and under the front of them are the stalls for the canons and other ecclesiastical officers, beginning with the Dean's stall to the right, and the Precentor's to the left. The Cathedra, or throne of the archbishop, is situated at the end of the prebendal stalls, on the south side, and the pulpit is placed opposite. On the left of the throne the Lord Mayor and Aldermen have their seats, and the Judges of assize sit opposite them, near the pulpit. In the middle of the area there is a small pillar of brass, supported by four lions, on the top of which is an eagle of the same metal, standing upon a globe, and which, with expanded wings, receives the service Bible for the lessons. The ascent from the nave through the choir to the high altar is by a flight of fifteen steps. Here a stone screen of excellent Gothic architecture, about forty-nine feet long by twenty-eight feet high, presents itself. This screen was formerly obscured by a wooden screen and gallery, which were swept away in the year 1726, by order of Dean Finch, by whose direction the screen, which had before been covered with tapestry, was glazed with plate glass protected by copper bars. Under the altar is a vault, commonly called the Crypt, with an entrance from the north and south aisles by iron grated of which depicts a portion of scripture history. But the eastern window is the masterpiece, and perhaps stands unrivalled for magnitude, beauty, and magnificence.This window is nearly the full breadth and height of the middle choir, and is seventyfive feet high and thirty-five wide. The upper part exhibits a piece of ample and beautiful tracery. Below are one hundred and seventeen compartments occupied with representations of the Supreme Being, of monarchs, priests, and saints, and of most of the principal events in the scripture records. The glazing of this window was commenced in the year 1405, at the cost of the dean and chapter, by John Thornton, of Coventry, who, in consideration of his superior skill and application, was to receive the weekly sum of four shillings, with the further payment of one hundred shillings a year, for his labour, which was completed in less than three years! To the south of this magnificent window is exhibited in painted glass the annunciation; or, the meeting of Mary and Elizabeth, from the design of Sebastian del Piombos în figure as large as life. This window was originally brought from the church of St. Rouen, in Normandy, and was presented to the dean and chapter of York, in the year 1804, by the Earl of Carlisle, whose arms, garter, coronet, and crest, fill up the compartments, above and below, and perpetuate the remembrance of the noble donor's munificence. The present religious services performed in the Cathedral, are the morning prayers daily at seven o'clock, in the vestry, in which the ecclesiastical courts are held. The cathedral service is performed in the choir at ten o'clock in the forenoon, when an anthem is sung, unless there be a sermon or litany. The evening prayers are performed every day in the week, at three o'clock in the afternoon in winter, and four o'clock in summer, in which an anthem is performed. On Sunday the service commences at ten o'clock in the morning, when a sermon is preached, and at four in the afternoon, when an anthem is sung. On Wednesdays and Fridays in Advent and Lent, and during the whole of Passion week, the choral service and singing doors. While exploring this ancient subterra-are intermitted both morning and evening. neous chantry we survey part of the old minster, and are carried back to the time of King Edwin, the first royal Northumbrian convert to Christianity. The windows of the choir shed their richly varied light through the numerous figures of kings, prelates, and saints. Those of the small transepts are remarkable for their height and elegance, reaching almost to the roof and divided into one hundred and eight compartments, each The chapter-house is a magnificent structure. Its form is an octagan of sixtythree feet in diameter, and, reckoning to the centre knot in the roof, sixty-seven feet ten inches in height. This vast space is not interrupted by a single pillar, the roof being wholly supported by a single pin geometrically placed in the centre. The stalls for the canons, forty-four in number, ranged along the sides, are highly finished in stone, and curiously wrought canopies are supported | Lti dayis to pardon. Robert by small and elegant columns of Petworth Strensal. marble. Over these runs a narrow gallery, which extends quite round the building. The capitals of the columns have a great variety of carved fancies upon them, with ludicrous, and not always chaste conceits, of the witty artists of the thirteenth century. The entrance from the north trausept is in the form of a mason's square. Every other side of the octagon is adorned with a window rich in tracery and figured glass, rising from the part first above the stalls, and reaching to the roof. Of this edifice, particularly of the chapter-house, Æneus Sylvanus, after☐ wards Pius II. said " It is famous all over the world for its magnificence and workman On the dissolution of the Cordwainers" Company, in the year 1808, this cup was presented by the fraternity to Mr. Shernf Hornby, of York, as a mark of their esteem, and he soon afterwards generously presented it to the Cathedral to swell the number of the curiosities. There is also shown here a state canopy of gold tissue, given by the city in honour of James I. on his first visit to York. Three silver chalices and several ancient rings found in the graves of the archbishops are exhibited; together with a wooden head, found near the grave of Archbishop Rotherham, who, having died of the plague, was interred here in effigy. There is also a su ship, but especially for a fine lightsome perb postoral staff of silver, about seven chapel, with shining walls and small thin- "Sic est domus ista domorum." The vestries, which are situated on the south side of the choir, contain several curiosities, which are shown and explained by the vergers; but the most important of these relics is a large ancient horn, presented by Prince Ulphus, and bearing the following inscription, in capital letters : CORNU HOC, ULPHUS, IN OCCIDENTALI PARTE ET REDDITIBUS SUIS OLIM DONAVIT. AMISSUM VEL ABREPTUM HENERI. DOM, FAIRFAX DEMUM RESTITUIT, By this horn, which is made of an elephant's tooth, curiously carved, and was originally mounted with gold, the church of York holds several lands of great value, a little to the eastward of the city, which are called "Terræ Ulphi." About the time of the reformation this antique vessel disappeared, till soon after the restoration. A large and elegant bowl, originally presented by Archbishop Scroope, in 1398, to the company of Cordwainers of this city is preserved here. In the middle of the bowl is the Cordwainers' arms, richly embossed-it is edged with silver double gilt, and stands upon three silver feet; round the rim, in the old English character, is the following inscription : Richarde Arche beschope Scrope grant unto all those that drinkis of this cope E Lti dayis to pardon. Robert Cobson beschope mesm grant in same forme aforesaide feet long, with the figure of the Virgin and the infant placed under the crook. This staff was given by Catharine, of Portugal, queen dowager of England, to her confessor, when he was nominated to be catholic archbishop of York, by James IL in 1689; and it is said, that when he marched in procession to the minster, the Earl of Darnley wrested it from him, and deposited it in the hands of the dean or chapter, in whose possession it has ever since remained. antique chair, as old as the cathedral, and in which several of the kings of England have been crowned, is still preserved here, and placed within the altar rails, when the archbishop officiates, for his use. These, with some less important relics, form the curiosities at present exhibited in the vestries. An Adjoining to the council room is the ancient treasury, which, before the reformation, contained wealth of inestimable value. At that period all its wealth was seized and converted to secular uses, The library was formerly in a room adjoining the western side of the south transept, but it is now removed to a building which was anciently a chapel belonging to the archiepiscopal palace, situated at a small distance from the north-west corner of the cathedral, and having undergone a complete repair, under the judicious direction of the very reverend the Dean, exhibits a fine specimen of the early age of Anglo-Normanic architecture. The destruction of the ancient library by repeated fires left this cathedral without so important an appendage, till the early part of the seventeenth century, when Mrs. Matthews, relict of the right reverend the archbishop of that name, presented her husband's valuable collection of books, consisting of upwards of three thousand volumes. To these has since been added a small, but select collection, bequeathed by the will of Mrs. Fothergill, relict of the Reverend Marmaduke Fothergill, which, with several late purchases, gifts, and bequests, form together a valuable library. The number of persons of rank and distinction, whose mortal remains are deposited in this ancient temple, is very considerable. The head of Edwin, the first christian king of Northumberland, was interred in the cathedral at York, and his body in the monastery at Whitby. History also records, amongst the persons interred here, the names of Eadbert and Eanbald, kings of Northumberland; Swein, king of Denmark; Tosti, brother of king Harold; William de Hatfield, second son of Edward III.; Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, and Sir J. Lamplugh, both beheaded for their loyalty to the house of York; and a very large proportion of the archbishops, who have presided over this See, from the introduction of Christianity into this province to the present day. Amongst the monuments still in existence to the memory of illustrious laymen, is chiefly to be noticed that of Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, privy councillor to Charles II. The sepulchral monument of the Earl of Stafford, who died in 1695, and that of the honourable Thomas Watson Wentworth, third son of Edward Lord Rockingham. Amongst those of modern days, that which public esteem and affection have erected to the memory of that distinguished friend of his country and of mankind, Sir George Savile, claims the regard of all those who can appreciate extensive benevolence and distinguished patriotism. PREBENDARIES. Wm. Abbott, B.D. Fridaythorpe. Hon. John Lumley Savile, M.A. South Newbold. Samuel Smith, D.D. Grindall. Ripon, Wistow. Henry Watkins, M.A. Givendate. COLLEGE OF VICARS. John Camidge, Of the Clergy of the Cathedral of St. Peter, at York, at present, the following 1 Clerk of the Vestry, 8 singing men and forms a complete list: The Right Hon. and Most Rev. Edward Venables Vernon, D.C.L. Archbishop of York, Primate of England, &c. &c. palace at Bishopthorpe. The very Rev. Williaın Cockburn, M.Α. Dean of York. CANONS RESIDENTIARY. Archdeacon Markham, M.A. Wetwang. F. Mills, M.A. Laughton. ARCHDEACONS. York-Rev. Robert Markham, M.A. Nottingham-Rev. John Eyre, M.A. East-Riding-Rev. R. D. Waddilove, D.D. Cleveland Rev. F. Wrangham, M.A. F.R.S. 8 boys, 3 Vergers. REGISTRAR-William Mills, Esq. Officers of the Ecclesiastical Court. CHANCELLOR AND COMMISSARY-Granville Venables Vernon, Esq. M.A. DEPUTY-REGISTRAR-Joseph Buckle, Esq. The chapel of St. Sepulchre formerly stood not far from the site of the archiepiscopal palace. This chapel was built and amply endowed by Roger, Archbishop of York, and had, at the reformation, a revenue amounting to £192. 16s. 6d. After the edifice had ceased to answer the purpose originally intended, part of it was converted into a public house, and from an opening at the end of a dungeon, with which the chapel was provided, the publican named his house "The Hole in the Wall." In the year 1816, the public house become ruinous, and was taken down, when, on removing the materials, the workmen came to a subterraneous prison, some feet below the surface of the earth, which had no doubt been used, in the dark ages of cruelty and superstition, as a dungeon, for the purpose of immuring ecclesiastical delinquents. In the following year a rude piece of Saxon seulpture, cut upon a stone, which, it is conjectured, formed the base of the arch over the doorway leading into this dungeon, was found, which pourtrays a man in the agonies of death, surrounded by demons, who are tormenting his body, and seizing his departing spirit. This singular relic is deposited in the Minster library. Not far from the dungeon is the prison and the "Hall of Pleas," for the Liberty of St. Peter. The prison, kept by Thomas Harrison, is used for offenders within the liberty, and there is a small court room in the upper story, where causes in common law arising within this jurisdiction are tried. The Liberty of St. Peter comprehends all those parts of the city and county of York which belong to the church of St. Peter, and an enumeration of which will be found in the population returns prefixed to this volume. Henry John Dickens, Esq. barrister-at-law, is the steward, and Christopher Newstead, Gentleman, of York, is the Clerk of the Peace and Under Steward for this liberty, of which Mr. John Brook is the Chief Bailiff, and Thomas Harrison the Constable. The jurisdiction is separate and exclusive, and it has its own Magistrates, Steward, Bailiff, Coroners, and Constables. Amongst its privileges, the inhabitants, men, and tenants of this liberty, are exempt from the payment of all manner of tolls throughout England, Ireland, and Wales, on the produetion of a certificate, which the under steward is always ready to supply. Four general quarter sessions are held for this liberty, at the sessions-house, in the Minster yard, on the Saturday in each week appointed by statute for holding the general quarter sessions, to inquire into all manner of felonies, poisonings, inchantments, sorceries, arts magic, trespasses, &c." And a court is held in the hall every three weeks, where pleas in actions of debt, trespass, replevin, &e. to any amount whatever, arising within the liberty, are heard. There is also a court leet and view of frank-pledge for the whole liberty, held twice a year, namely, on Wednesday in Easter week, and the first Wednesday after new Michaelmas day. The Register Office, or the Archbishop's Prerogative Court, as it is sometimes called, is held in an old building at the east end of the cathedral, in which the registration of wills and the granting of licences for the general diocese of York take place. The Dean and Chapter have also a distinct office, in which secular business is transacted for the inhabitants of the Liberty of St. Peter's. The Deanery house of this cathedral is situated in the Minster-yard, and was erected in the year 1090. At the reformation the yearly tenths were valued at 302. 178. Ond. and the living, which is in the gift of the king, at 3071 10s. 74d. The present dean is the Right Reverend William Cockburu, M.A. who was created dean in 1823. The deanery has the rectories of Pocklington, Pickering, and Kilham, of which the dean is patron and ordinary; he likewise presents to Thornton, Ebberston, Ellerburne, BarnbyMoor, Givendale, and Hayton vicarages. He appoints also the residentaries, but must choose them out of the prebendaries, and the first prebendary he sees after a vacancy, has a right to claim the residentaryship The dean and the four residentiaries constitute the chapter; and the value of a residentiaryship is estimated, in Bacon's Liber Regis, at 209l. per annum. Thereare yet considerable remains of an ancient building erected here to the honour of St. William, Archbishop of York, called " St. William's college," for the parsons and chantry priest of the college to reside in, it being deemed contrary to the honour and decency of the church for them to live in houses of laymen and women, as heretofore. Belfrey's church is situated in the Minster-yard, but as it will be enumerated amongst the churches where service is still performed, it is unnecessary to dwell upon it here. Besides this church there were formerly two other parish churches within the Cathedral close, namely, * The time appointed by statute for holding the General Quarter Sessions in England isChristmas in the 1st week after Epiphany. Easter-in the 1st week after the close of Midsummer in the 1st whole week after St. Thomas-a-Becket. Michaelmas in the 1st whole week after the 11th of October. Easter. |