Marsden, Armitage E. & D. merchts. Minskip, Barker Jph. woollen mfr. Nun Monkton, Osmundthorpe, Lasseys and Co. coal merts Ossett, Ripley, Tankersley, Newton, & Co. coal merts Cogswell J. & Co.'s vessels to Liverpool, M. W. & Fri Scaife Wm. joiner, &c. Hartley & Co. machine mkrs Binks Thos. yeoman Williamson J. Esq. Hollings Daniels T. & W. tanners Ripon, Hardaker John, clock maker Bowness Rev. Geo, rector Wilsden, Nicholls & Skirrow, worsted 12, Thompson & Son, flax spurs Roseberry Topping, In a part of the impression of the N. & E. Riding map 3 the altitude of Roseberry Parker Hugh, Esq. hall Topping is stated at 1022, Woodthorpe, nr Wakefield instead of 1488 feet. Dobcross Wood Rev. W. Saddleworth, Woolley, Selby, M Clellan T. linen&c, drpr York, Dean of the Cathedral car of St. Trinity Errata at Page 288. Mr. Chantry was born at Norton, 4 miles from Sheffield, & 24 miles within the Derbyshire border, so that the honour of Ame-having given birth to this e Carr Wm. High constable Fenton Francis, Esq. rican Consular agent Bishop L. razor mfr Broco st. Silkstone, Clark R. Esq. Noble Thorp Skipton, Greaves Thos. mill owner Staincross, MossT.&Sons,imachine mkrs/Shaw John, Esq. minent sculptor, belongs to Derbyshire, and not to York shire. Leggit was his mo ther's maiden name, but he was baptized Francis only. Pontefract Sessions 1st Mon. after Easter Week, not Mon. in Easter week. THE first volume of this publication was confined principally to matter relating to the West-Riding of Yorkshire; and the present volume, which completes the Topographical History and Directory of this large division of the kingdom, comprehends the CITY AND AINSTY OF YORK, THE EAST RIDING, AND THE NORTH-RIDING of this County. The extent and jurisdiction of the Ainsty are described with precision at page 136 of the present volume; it remains, therefore, only to take a general view of the distinguishing features of the East and North Ridings. The East-Riding is divided into seven wapentakes,* namely— The North-Riding is bounded on the north by the river Tees; on the east by the German ocean; on the south by the Ainsty of York and the East and West-Ridings; and on the west by the county of Westmoreland. The boundaries of the East-Riding are, the Derwent to the north; the Ouse to the west; the Humber to the south; and the German ocean to the east. In tracing the Roman roads of Yorkshire, the course of the great road, called Watling-street, running from south to north, has already been described,† and shown to The wapentakes of the West-Riding are enumerated at page 653, Vol I. At page iii. Vol. I. 8 9 9 10 extend from Bawtry, where it enters the county of York, to the Tees, where it crosses into the county of Durham.— Another military road, running east and west, from Manchester to York, has also been described. This road, proceeding still eastward, advanced to Malton, where it was divided into two branches, the first called Wade's causeway, leading to Dunsley Bay, the Dunus Sinus of Ptolemy; and the other to Scarborough and Filey. The straight course of a Roman road may be traced over the high grounds of the Wolds, from York to Bridlington Bay, the Gabrantovicorum Sinus Fortiosus, or Salutaris; a branch of this road has also been discovered, tending towards Hunmanby.--Another line may also be followed in a direction to Patrington, (Practorium) and the Spurn point, which appears to be the Ocellum Promontorium of Ptolemy, and where was once the noted seaport of Ravenspurn, now engulphed in the ocean.From Lincoln a Roman road may be traced to the south bank of the Humber, near Wintringham, where are still seen vestiges of the station ad Abum. On the north bank Brough indicates the position of another ancient station, from which it is probable that a branch of road communicated with York. From this sketch it will appear that the military roads of the Romans converged in every direction, from the extremities of the province of Eboracum to York, their common centre, which, as will be seen from the subjoined history of that ancient city, was so long the head quarters of the Roman army. The East Riding of Yorkshire, although it displays a great variety of aspect, is far less conspicuously marked with the bold features of nature than the other parts of the county; but if it contains no scenery that can be called truly romantic, some parts of the Riding are beautifully picturesque, and afford very extensive and in some cases a clayey loam, and in others a fine red sandy soil. The vale of York, more in the interior, is not confined within any determinate boundaries, but is rather marked out by the face of the country.—This extensive vale has, from the river even magnificent prospects, especially when mixed with stones; and a light loam upon the sea or the Humber enters into view.-a grit roek. In some instances, as in the From its topographical appearance, this neighbourhood of Hackness, there is on the Riding may be considered as three different side of the hills a stiff loam upon limestone, districts, the Wolds forming one of them, and a deep sandy loam upon a whinstone; and the other two lying, one to the east and and in the bottom a light loam upon gravel the other to the west, of that elevated or freestone. The interior parts of the region. The wolds consist of an assemblage Eastern MOORLANDS present a bleak and of chalky hills, extending from the northern dreary aspect, and little wood is to be seen, to the southern extremity of the East- except in the dales or on the declivities of Riding. The soil is commonly a free and some of the more fertile of the hills. Passing rather light loam, with a mixture of chalky into Cleveland, the country is lightly featurgravel, in some parts very shallow; it also con-ed with hills, and the soil is generally clay; tains a deeper and more kindly loam, and a light sandy mixture. On the Wolds very extensive improvements have taken place during the last forty years, and a district, which, in the middle of the last century, was a complete waste-fit only for the production and support of rabbits, by the en-Tees, a general slope, though interrupted couragement given to agriculture between the years 1790 and 1815, has been brought into a state of prosperous cultivation. The eastern division, above referred to, extends from Filey to Spurn Head; in some parts of this extensive tract, particularly between Filey and Bridlington, the face of the country is much diversified, and throughout the whole district clay and loam are the predominant soils. The improvements in agriculture have here also been very extensive, and a judicious system of drainage has accomplished wonders. The third natural division of the East-Riding extends from the western foot of the Wolds to the boundaries of the North and West-Ridings; this tract of land is called Levels, and, as its name imports, it is every where flat and unpicturesque, but by no means unproductive. by some irregularities of surface, and some bold swells, as far as York, where it sinks into a perfect flat. The northern part of this tract has the Eastern MOORLANDS on one side, and the Western MOORLANDS on the other. The soil in that part of the vale of York which lies within the North-Riding is described by Mr. Tuke, in his survey, to be of different degrees of fertility, and to be very differently composed; generally it is a clayey loam, and few parts of the country can excel this celebrated vale in fertility.The Western MOOREANDS differ greatly from those in the eastern part of the Riding. They are generally calcareous, and although their altitude is considerably higher, they are much more fertile than the eastern MOORLANDS, which consist mainly of grit. stone and free-stone rock. Many of the dales which intersect the western MOORLANDS are extremely fertile; of these Wensleydale may be ranked as the first, both in extent and fertility. On the south several small dales open into the dale of Wensley. The soil of this master dale, on the banks of the river, is generally a rich loamy gravel, and on the sides of the hills a clayey loam upon a substratum of limestone. Swaledale is little inferior to Wensley in extent, though it falls far short of it in beauty, but by some it is esteemed more romantic, and by all it must be admired. In fertility it is pretty much upon a par with its neighbour. The smaller dales, which are very numerous, are in general similar to these in appearance and production. Even the mountains here, some of which are of considerable altitude, as will be seen from the Map of the East and North Ridings, seldom exhibit marks of unconquerable sterility, but are many of them covered to their summits with fine sweet In the North-Riding the face of the country is much more diversified. Along the coast, from Scarborough to Cleveland, it is hilly and bold, the cliff being generally from 60 to 150 feet high, and in some places, as at Stoupe Brow, seven miles from Whitby, it rises to the stupendous height of 893 feet. From the cliff the country rises in most places very rapidly, and a little further inland successive hills rising one above another, form the elevated tract of the Eastern Moorlands. The cultivated dales situated amongst these moors are pretty extensive, some of them containing from five to ten thousand acres, and Eskdale and Bilsdale much more. The level lands at the bottom of the vallies are seldom more than two or three hundred yards in breadth, but the land is generally cultivated to a considerable distance up the sides of the hills. Most of the dales partake more or less of the following soils;-a black moor earth upon clay; a sandy soil, in some places inter-grass, bent or rushes.* The east MOORLANDS of the North-form the secure harbour of Kingston, which, Riding form a peculiar feature in the coun- from this river, is generally called Hull. try, being wholly detached from the moun- The sea coast of the North and Easttains in the west. Some points of the east Ridings of Yorkshire is very extensive, and MOORLANDS rise nearly 900 feet above the affords several secure harbours:-The harlevel of the sea; but the most remarkable bours of Hull, Scarborough, Whitby, and summit of the whole is Roseberry Topping, Bridlington, are described under their apdescribed at page 522 of this volume.propriate heads in this volume, to which By its detached position and superior eleva- may be added the Bay of Filey and Robin tion, it commands in all directions a prospect Hood's Bay. at once extensive and interesting. The hill rests on a basis of alum rock, interspersed with iron-stone, and its pinnacled summit indicates to the surrounding country the approaching change in the weather, as expressed in the following metrical proverb: "When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, Let Cleveland then beware of a clap." Along the whole length of the NorthRiding, from west to east, the country is bounded by the river Tees. This river, rising in the mountains of Westmoreland and Cumberland, pursues a very direct course into the German ocean, below Stockton, where it spreads out into the estuary of Redcar, three miles in breadth The Tees is navigable for ships of 60 tons burthen, up to Stockton, but the channel is serpentine and intricate, and the current rapid. A few inconsiderable streams from the western moors fall into the river Tees, but the great body of the waters of Yorkshire flow in the opposite direction, and their course, from their rise to their termination in the Humber, is described in pages vii and viii of the first volume of this work. The Derwent rises in the eastern moors of the North-Riding, at about four miles from the sea, and after taking a southerly direction through the romantic valley of Hackness, runs in a line almost parallel with the coast, till it comes to the foot of the Wolds; it then takes a westerly direction, and having received the Rye, from Hemsley, passes by the borough of Malton, to which it is navigable for vessels of twenty-five tons burthen. It is the boundary between the North and East-Ridings, from its junction with the small river Hertford, till it approaches Stamford Bridge, where it enters the EastRiding, and falls into the Ouse, near the village of Barmby, about three miles and a half above. Howden. In the east MoonLANDS of the North-Riding rises, the Eske, which, after watering the dale to which it gives name, forms the inner harbour of Whitby, and is there lost in the German Ocean. The small river Hull traverses the East-Riding from north to south, visiting Driffield and Beverley in its course, and at its influx into the Humber contributes to The Minerals of the North-Riding consist chiefly of the alum Mines, on the coast of Whitby, as mentioned at pages 416 and 574 of this volume, and the lead mines in Swaledale, and the neighbouring vallies, as described at page 555. About the middle of the last century copper of good quality was produced near Middleton Tyas, but the works have been for some years discontinued. Copper was also discovered, about five and twenty years ago, at Richmond, but it does not appear that the discovery has ever yet tended to any profitable result. The same observation applies to the iron-stone, which may be found in the east MooRLAND; though it should seem, from ancient records, that as early as the 13th century, iron was wrought and forged in Rosedale; Ayton is the only place in the North-Riding where forges have been established in modern times, and even these have now totally disappeared, from the difficulty of procuring fuel. Various parts of this Riding produce coal, particularly the plain between Easingwold and Thirsk, and the west MOORLANDS; but the latter is of an inferior quality, and fit only for the burning of lime. Good free-stone for building, appears in many parts of the Riding; and stone-quarries are worked both in the neighbourhood of Scarborough and Whitby, from whence are drawn the massive blocks used in the construction of the piers at these ports. Lime-stone, and a species of marble, not inferior to that of Derbyshire, are found in the vale of the Greta, near Rokeby, and large blocks of red granite are seen on the surface, in certain parts of the west MOORLANDS. In the East-Riding chalk is the prin cipal mineral substance.-Near the coast it extends from Hessle, on the banks of the Humber, its southern extremity, to Reighton, ten miles south of Scarborough, its northern boundary. The chalk rocks always contain large quantities of water, which may be had by boring or sinking, even at a considerable distance from the hills. Many large springs break out along the eastern edge of the chalk, generally in the gravel which covers it. The river Hull is formed by the united waters of a number of at Hull is forty-eight feet; beneath it is a bed of moor land, consisting principally of peat earth, two feet in thickness. The warp land extends beyond Driffield, but it is there much shallower than at Hull, and its width does not exceed four miles. That this moor, now covered with warp, was formerly upon the surface, is shown by the nature of its composition, being evidently peat, which could not be formed in any other situation; and that it is extended across the Humber into Lincolnshire is proved by pieces of wood, exactly the same as those found in the moor, having been washed up at Hessle after a high wind. The Wolds consist of one extensive mass of indurated chalk, the surface of which is very curious; broken by a vast number of deep dales and sudden depressions, most of them, if not all, taking a direction towards some general outlet to the east or the southeast of Yorkshire. It may be observed, however, as a peculiarity, that the whole of the extreme edge or margin of the Wolds, to the north and to the west, with one exception, continues in a regular and entire state along the surface, without any of those depressions which take place at a very little distance within. The depression that breaks through the margin is at Market Weighton, and a small canal, upon Foulton's plan might, at an easy expense, be directed from hence to the navigable river Hull, near Beverley, with great public advantage to this part of the country. In France and in America canals of this description are becoming very general, and prove highly advantageous. It is very probable that the Wolds have been the last these springs; and at Spring Head, from which the town of Hull is supplied with water, 240,000 gallons are raised daily; this water contains a small portion of carbonate of lime and iron, which is separated by exposure to the atmosphere in a course of three miles. The intermitting spring at Keldgate, near Cottingham, described at page 189 of this volume, rises upon the gravel, but it is not far distant from the chalk. In the gravel beds on the chalk are found the remains of large animals, some of them in a state of great perfection; vertebræ, eighteen feet in length, and from 8 to 10 inches in diameter, have been dug up in these beds, and teeth, measuring 8 or 10 inches in circumference, are frequently discovered here. At Hull, the gravel depository of the animal remains is about ninety feet from the surface, and the workmen employed in boring for water near the north bridge described their tools to have smelt as if they had been cutting fish, so that it is probable not only the bones but also the fleshy part of the animal remains. The coast, from Spurn to Bridlington, forms a section of all the beds above the chalk, and as it is not in the line of dip, two beds are generally seen at the same time. A bed of dark red clay commences at Kilnsea, containing round boulders*, mixed with pebbles, both of which are composed of Granite, Gneiss, Mica slate, Porphyry, Grauwacke, Quartz, Mountain Limestone, containing organic remains, all the sand-stones and coal-shales, coal, fuller's-earth, chalk, and flint. In this bed the chalk pebbles are in the greatest quantity. On the western side of Holderness, along the edge of the chalk hills, a very ex-deposit of all the great masses of simple and tensive tract of rich land has been formed, in homogeneous matter in this part of the the course of ages, called Warp Land, which world. There are scattered all over this consists of the clay and sand deposits of elevated tract nodules of pyrates, of a round the Humber. The greatest breadth of this form, composed of iron and sulphur, which tract is from Hull to Hedon, a distance the country people call bullets; there are of nine miles, and its length, from Hull to also great quantities of loose fragments of Lowthorp, a distance of twenty miles. A sand-stones, which are perfectly foreign to narrow piece of newly-formed warp ex- the calcareous matter of which the Wolds are tends from Hedon to Spurn, including Sunk formed, and they have, doubtless, been Island, and is called the Marshes. How brought here by the action of the sea, after long this operation of land making has the chalky stratum had been deposited and been proceeding in this quarter, human pe- hardened, or they would have sunk into netration and local records are alike inca- the pulp. pable of determining, but that its date is of many centuries is obvious, as Drypool, which stands upon the present bank of the Humber, is mentioned in the Domesday survey, and a causeway, extending from Beverley to the newly-built town of Hull, at nearly its present level, existed in the time of Edward I. The depth of the warp * Fragments of rock, All along the eastern side of the Wolds from Bridlington to Beverley, and from thence to Hessle, by the Humber side, the sand-stone, and the chalk which rests upon it, dip and vanish under an extensive bed of alluvial soil, which forms the whole of Holderness. On the north and west the Wolds exhibit a bold and striking front, resembling a marine cliff, which is entirely surrounded by an extensive plain of alluvial deposit, |