molished two houses, without Monk bar, in one of which the deputy-lieutenants were expected to assemble, to receive the constable's returns. Since the reign of Charles I. York, which was in former times the residence of Emperors and Kings, has not been visited by any English sovereign; though it has often been honoured with the presence of different branches of the royal family.

IVth, was in Scotland, his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex honoured this city with a visit, and partook of the hospitalities of the Corporation, at the Mansion-house, where a public dinner was given to his Royal Highness, on which occasion the freedom of the city was presented to him in a gold box, accompanied by an address expressive of the admiration of that "splendid career of useful beneficence and spirited patriotism which gave a brilliant lustre to his exalted birth."

The city of York, as it now stands, is nearly two miles and three quarters in circuit. There are no existing records to show when the walls were built. They were, no doubt, in existence in the time of the Saxons and Danes, as well as during the Roman government; and they were reedified, if not actually re-built in the reign of Edward I., to protect the city against Scotch invaders, who penetrated to its gates, After the siege of York, in 1644, the walls stood in great need of repairs, and the three following years were employed in that necessary duty. The coroding hand of time has ever since been at work, and they are now falling rapidly into decay. In several places the delightful promenade formed by them is already interrupted, and if the hand of reparation does not alter for the better, what time changes for the worse, it is

In our own times, the present sovereign of these realms, while Prince of Wales, visited the city of York, accompanied by his royal brother who derives his title from this ancient metropolis. On Monday, the 24th of August, 1789, in the race week, their Royal Highnesses arrived on the race ground, in their carriage, and alighted at some distance from the Grand Stand, whence they rode about on horseback, to gratify public curiosity by a sight of their persons. When the day's sport was over, they repaired to the carriage of Earl Fitzwilliam, whose guests they were, and entered the city amidst the congratulations of the populace. The following day, the corporation presented the Heir-apparent with the freedom of the city in an elegant gold box; and on Thursday, in the race week, he dined at the Mansion-House, in company with a large assemblage of the nobility and gentry of the county. On the following Saturday, the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York proceeded to Castle How-not difficult to foresee what will be the end. ard, having previously ordered Lieutenant Colonel St. Leger to pay into the hands of Walter Fawkes, Esq. High-Sheriff of the county, two hundred guineas, for the relief of debtors in the castle. In 1791, Charles James Fox visited York at the races, a grand dinner was given him and many noble-shield, bearing the arms of England and men and gentlemen at the Mansion-House, and he was presented with the freedom of the city in a gold box, accompanied by a copy of a resolution passed by the corporation, in which he was complimented on "the constant and beneficial exertions of his abilities in support of the British Constitution, upon the true principles of the glorious revolution; of the rights of every degree of citizens; and of the peace, liberty, and happiness of mankind." In November, 1795, Prince William Frederick of Gloucester, on his return from Scarborough to the South, spent some time in York, and was presented with the freedom of the city, in a gold box. In 1805, the Right Hon. John Earl St. Vincent, whose courage and talents as a naval commander are so well known, honoured this city with a visit, and received its freedom, in a box of "heart of oak."

On the 26th of August, 1822, while his Royal brother and Sovereign, George

The entrance into the city is by four principal gates or bars, and five posterns, or smaller entrances; the gates are, MICKLEGATE-BAR, to the South-West, adorned with lofty turrets, finely embattled; over the Roman arch, already described, hangs a large

France; and on each side, one of less size, decorated with the city arms: this is at the entrance from Tadcaster. BOOTHAM-BAR, to the North-West, on the road leading to Edinburgh, is an ancient structure, built almost wholly of grit; but though the ma terials are Roman, the architecture is Gothic. MONK-BAR, to the North-East, on the entrance from Malton and Scarborough, is a stately gate, bearing the arms of France quartered with those of England, on the battlements. And WALMGATE-BAR, on the South-East, leading to Beverley and Hull; the foundations of this bar are formed of large blocks of grit, but the arches are modern, having undergone a thorough repair, in 1648, after the gate had been almost demolished by the siege.

The Posterns are, North-street-postern, Skeldergate postern, Castlegate - postern, Fishergate-postern, Layerthorp-postern, and Longwalk - postern.

There are also six

teet. The first stone of this bridge was laid with considerable pomp, on the 10th of December, 1810, and the work was completed in March, 1820; The Right Hon. George Peacock, filling at both these periods the office of Lord Mayor. The old bridge, after having existed for six centuries, was then removed, and gave place to this handsome modern erection. A new bridge, over the Foss, leading into Walmgate, cotemporary with the new Ouse bridge, and built by the same architect, at the expense of the corporation, serves to mark the public spirit of the present age. The other bridges, which are all over the Foss, at different points, claim no particular observation,

bridges, the New Ouse bridge, built under occasion, on the site of the present cathethe direction of Mr Peter Atkinson, archi-dral, which was dedicated, as is the present edifice, to St. Peter, and on Easter Day, in the year 627, the King, with his two sons, Osfrid and Edfrid, along with a number of the nobles, were solemnly baptised in this primitive erection. The ceremony over, says Bede, the prelate took care to acquaint the King, that since he had become a Christian, he ought to build a House of prayer, more suitable to the divinity he now adored; and by the bishop's direction, he began to build a magnificent fabric of stone, in the midst of which was inclosed the oratory already erected. Under the influence of that zeal which inspired the Royal convert, the building proceeded with great spirit; but scarcely were the walls ready to This city is divided into four districts, receive the roof, when the King was slain in which take their names from the four gates, battle, and Paulinus was obliged to quit the and are called Micklegate-ward, Bootham-country. For some years the church lay ward, Monkgate-ward, and Walmgate-ward. neglected, but in 632, Oswald, a successor Micklegate-ward, in the South West part of of Edwin, undertook to complete the buildthe city, is incompassed on one side by the ing, which he had no sooner finished, than city walls, and on the other, by the river he was killed by Penda, the Pagan king of Ouse. It contains six parishes, namely, Mercia, and the newly-erected structure was Bishop-hill, the elder and younger; Trinity; almost destroyed. In this ruinous condition St. Martin's; St. Johns; and All Saints', it was found by archbishop Wilfred, the Bootham-ward occupies the North West munificent patron of Ripon,† who, about angle of the city, and has in its district, the the year 674, repaired the walls, fixed on parishes of Belfrey's; St. Helen's; and St. the roof, and restored it to its former gran. Martin's. Monk-ward is the North East deur. "And now, by the hand of provipart, and comprises Trinity; St. Cuth-dence," says Drake, "the church stood an bert's; St. Saviour's; Christ's; and St. flourished under the successive beneficence Sampson's. Walmgate-ward is on the North of its spiritual governors, for near 400 years, East, and contains seven parishes, namely, during which period it received the valuable St. Margaret's; St. Dennis; St. George; donation of archbishop Egbert's library; Crux; All Hallow's; St. Mary's; and St. upon which Alcuin, the Gamaliel of his age, Michael's. These four divisions comprise who had drank freely at this spring of the whole city, within the walls, except the erudition, has bestowed so high an eulogium. In the year 1069, as has been already seen, the native inhabitants, aided by the Danes, in their attempt to throw off the yoke of the conquerer, set fire to the suburbs, which spreading to the city, communicated to the cathedral, and involved them all in one common ruin. William, on entering the city, seized upon the revenues of the church; but he soon after elevated Thomas, his chaplain and treasurer, to the Archbishopric, and by him the cathedral was restored to its former splendour. 1136, a casual fire again burnt down this edifice, along with St. Mary's Abbey, and thirty-nine parish churches. For four and thirty years the cathedral lay in ruins; but, in the year, 1171, during the episcopacy of Roger, archbishop of this province, the choir with its vaults were re-built, and the South part of the cross isle of the church, was added in the time of Walter Grey,

close of the cathedral.

York, the archiepiscopal see, like most other ancient cities, is remarkable for the number of its sacred edifices, and in enumerating and describing the churches of York, in which religious services are still performed, the CATHEDRAL, that" Chief of houses, as the rose of flowers," claims the precedency.

It has always been observed,* that on the introduction of Christianity into this kingdom, about the year 625, Edwin, King of Northumbria, himself a convert from Paganism, elevated Paulinus, a Roman missionary, to the dignity of first archbishop of York. The residence of this King was York, but at so low an ebb was religion, that there was not found a temple within his metropolis suitable for the performance of the ceremony of baptism. A small oratory of wood, was in consequence erected for the

*Vol. I. p. v.

† Vol. I. p. 247. Vol. II. p. 13.

In

Roger's successor, in the early part of the In addition to the means already mentioned reign of Edward I. John le Romain, fa- for raising the supplies, a bull apostolica ther of the archbishop, began and finished was issued by Pope Urban VI. and a kind of the North transepts, with a handsome steeple income tax of five per cent. was imposed on in the midst; and John, his son, with his ecclesiastical benefices for three years, for own hand, laid the foundation of the nave, the necessary repairs and re-edification. By from the west and eastward, on the 7th of these means a vast sum was collected; which April, 1291, invoking the grace of the Holy being augmented by a munificent donation Ghost. The materials for this part of the from Archdeacon Skirlaw, the choir was cathedral were contributed by Robert de finished, and the structure completed by the Vavasour, from his quarry near Tadcaster; taking down of the old lantern steeple, and and by Robert de Percy, Lord of Boulton, the erection of a new one in its stead, A. D. from his Woods at that place. William de 1370. Thus within the space of less than 200 Melton was the next founder, in 1320, and years, reckoning from the period in which with the aid of indulgences of relaxation, the south transept was begun by Walter de sold to "the charitable," he finished the Grey, the superb cathedral of York was west end with the steeples, as it remains at this completed in the forms and dimensions in day. But the great benefactor of the cathe-which it appears at this day, exhibiting dral was archbishop John Thoresby; this a splendid monument of the piety of former prelate conceiving that the choir, built by Roger, did not correspond with the west end of the church lately erected, and that there was no place in this church of York "where our Lady's mass, the glorious mother of God, could decently be celebrated," himself contributed one thousand eight hundred and ten pounds, towards building a new choir, and consummating this fabric. All the machinery for raising public contributions by the church was also put in motion: indulgences of relaxation were granted to the liberal; letters mandatory were addressed to the clergy, enjoining them, under pain of the greater excommunication, to suffer their collectors to gather the alms of the charitable, and the old hall and chambers of the archbishop's manor of Shireburn were demolished to provide stone and materials for the erection of the new choir, the first stone of which was laid by the archbishop, on the 29th of July, 1361. The wages of workmen about this time were three-pence a day to a master mason or carpenter, and three-half-pence to their "knaves," as their journeymen were then called ;* A pound's worth of silver then was a pound weight, which is equal to four pounds of our present money, and one penny then would purchase as much corn as twenty-county of York. The archbishops of York, pence now, bringing the artizan's wages to the rate of 2s. 6d. a day, or 15s. a week. The contribution of the archbishop was of course most munificent, and amounted to not less a sum in our money than 36,000l.! Fleetwood's Chronicon Pretiosum.

times, and an interesting combination of Gothic architecture through five successive ages. Of all the different parts of this magnificent structure the chapter house is the only one of which the date is totally unknown. No records now extant give any account of the time of its erection; but from the style of architecture, Drake conjectures that it is to be ascribed to Walter de Grey.The pavement of the cathedral is of recent date; anciently it consisted of the gravestones of bishops and other ecclesiastics, but in the year 1626, the old pavement was removed, under the direction of the Earl of Burlington, when several curious rings of ruby and saphire, set in gold, belonging to those whose mortal remains had mixed with their parent dust, were discovered, and are now shown in the vestry. The stone for the new pavement was given by Sir Edward Gascoigne, of Parlington, from his quarry at Huddlestone, and the marble was obtained by sawing the old grave-stones into dies suitable for the purpose of this mosaic work.The expense of the workmanship, which amounted to £2500, was defrayed by a subscription raised for the purpose, among the nobility, clergy, and gentry of the city and

since the introduction of Christianity, in the time of the Heptarchy, to the present period, amount to eighty three in number, and their names in numerical order, with the dates when each of them entered upon the see, is subjoined :

ARCHBISHOPS OF YORK FROM 625 TO 1822. 1 Paulinus.........625 6 Wilfred II......718 12 Wymondus.....831 18 Athelwold......97! 2 Cedda............664 7 Egber...........731 13 Wilferus........854 19 Oswald..........971 3 Wilfred..........666 8 Adelbert........767 14 Adelbald ......900 20 Adulf...........992 4 Bosa..............677 9 Eanbald.........780 15 Rewardus......921 21 Wulstan II...1002 5 St. John of 10 Eanbald II.....797 16 Wulstan........930 22 Afric Pullock 1023 Beverley......69211 Wulsius.........812 17 Oskitell........955 23 Kinsius........1050

24 Aldred........1060 39 Henry de New- 53 Lawren.Bothe 1476/69 Rich. Neile...1631 ark........1298 54 Thos. de Ro- 70 John Williams 1641 therham ....1480 71 Accep.Frewen 1660

25 Thomas......1070

26 Gerard........1100 40 Thomas Cor

27 Thomas II....1109

bridge -1299 55 Thos. Savage 150172 Rhd. Sterne-1664 73 John Dolben 1683 field1305 bridge ...1508 74 Thos. Lam

28 Thurstan......1114 41 Wm. de Gren- 56 Chpr. Bain29 Henry Murdac1140

30 St. William...1153 42 Wm.deMelton1315 57 Thos. Wolsey 1514

........1154 43 Wm. de la

31 Roger........

32 Geoffry Plan

plugh......1688

Lancelot Blackburne......1754 Thos. Herring 1742

58 Edward Lee..153175 John Sharp...1691 Zouch .1340 59 Rbt. Holgate.. 1544 76 Sir. W. Dawes 1713 tagenet......1190 44 John Thoresby 1352 60 Nich.Heath...1555 77 33 Walter de Grey1216 45 Alex. Neville 1374 61 Thos. Young 1561 34 Sewal 1256 46 Thos. Arundel 1388 62 Edm. Grindal 1570 78 35 Godfrey de 47 Rbt. Waldby.. 1396 63 Edwin Sandys 1576 79 Mth. Hutton 1747 Ludham ...1258 48 Rhd. Scroope 1398 64 John Piers....1588 80 John Gilbert., 1757 36 Walter Giffard 1265 49 Henry Bowet 1407 65 Mthw.Hutton 1594 81 R.Drummond1761 37 W.Wickwane 1279 50 Johu Kemp...1426 66 Tob.Matthew 1606 82 W. Markham 1777 38 John le Ro- 51 Wm. Bothe...1452 67 Geo.Montaign 1628 83 Edw. Venables ..1285 52 Geo. Neville...1464/68 Saml. Harsnet 1629 Vernon...1808

maine

The Archbishop of York is Primate of | Dukes who are not of the royal blood, and England, and to him attaches the honour of of all great officers of state, the Lord Chancrowning the Queen. According to Dr. cellor alone excepted.* The yearly tenths Heylin, the archbishopric of York is the most of the Archbishop of York, as returned in ancient metropolitan See in England, having the survey made by the commissioners apbeen so constituted in the reign of King pointed by the Crown, in the reign of Lucius, in the year 180. As has been al- Henry VIII. on the eve of the reformation, ready seen, this see was, on the conversion were valued at £161, and the value of the of the Saxon Edwin, elevated to its former living, as stated in the King's books, of the honour, when Paulinus was made arch- same date, at £1610. In Northumberbishop, and then each metropolitan had land, the Archbishop of York has the power twelve suffragan bishops; at present York of a Palatine. The Right Reverend Father only retains Durham, Carlisle, Chester, and in God, the Hon. Edward Venables VerSodor and Man, though formerly its arch- non, L.L.D. is the present archbishop, and bishop was metropolitan of Scotland. Warm was translated to the archiepiscopal See from and repeated contentions have existed for the bishopric of Carlisle, in 1808. ecclesiastical supremacy between this See and Canterbury, which all terminated in this, that the Archbishop of York stiles himself"Primate of England; and He of Canterbury, "Primate of all England; and the former has still precedency of all

The Cathedral of York is one of the largest sacred structures in England, as the following comparative table, copied from Hargrove's History of York, will serve to demonstrate, and its magnificence corresponds with its magnitude :

York.

west door to the choir.. 264 306
162 165

ft ft.

ft.

524 500

554

514 517 498 489 452 214

130 246

of the Choir

101

152 140

222 248 208

low. 124 178 227 180 210

up. 154

109 107
96

74

73 83

76

196 221 n.w.133 n. w. 100 270 270
235

*Dugdale, Vol 1. fol. p. 290

235

113 288)

400

D