Halifax Parish Church.-I. Eng. inscr. (in raised letters) and text, St. John xi. 25, to John Waterhows, of Halyfax, 1530, and wife Agnes, effs. lost, two scrolls remain, now on a pew. N. II. Eng. inscr. to Hugh Faucit, of Halifax, 1641, and Hugh, his son, 1668. S.A. III. Eng. inscr., and seven Eng. vv., to "Mr. Jo: Broadley late minist: of Sowerby Chapel :" 1623, and wife Mary, 1625, mur. S.A.

Helmsley.-I. Chil. (each separate) now lost. Crest (a panache of peacock's feathers) with mantling remains, the shield belonging

to it and four others lost, now under Tower. II. Apparently lost. Add III. Eng. inscr. and one Lat. line to William, son of Wm. Moore, gent., born 1682, dec. 1685, mur. S. Tr. IV. Eng. inscr. and ten Eng. vv. to Christopher Agar, 1789, "after a short and violent fever," æt. 40, mur. N.A. V. Eng. inscr. to Mr. John Peirson, of Whitby, "who gave ye Candlestick to ys church," 1770, æt. 78, mur.

S.Tr.

Hull, St. Mary.-E. wall of S.C.

Hull, Holy Trinity.-I. In S.C.A. Add II. Eng. inscr. to Mrs. Dorothy Shaw, wife of Mr. John Shaw, "preacher of the Gospel in this church," 1657, mur. S.C.A. III. Eng. inscr., stating that Thos. Dalton married, Ist, Ann Walker, widow; and 2nd, Ann, dau. of Sir Robt. Tirwhit, of Ketlebie, Knt., by whom he had six sons and two daus; he dec. æt. 74; inlaid in old slab (with inscr.). S.C.A. IV. A shield (ermine, on a bend engrailed, three fleurs de lys). S.C.A.

Ripon Cathedral.-I. Lat. inscr. to Wm. Gibson, Alderman, 1680, æt. 47, mur. N.Tr. II. Eng. inscr. to Fras. Blackburne, Alderman of Richmond, 1710, æt. 29. Central Tower. III. Lat. inscr. to Edward Hodgson, of Ripon, 1705, æt. 67. S.A.

Sessay. Has a shield (bendy of six, over all, on a fess, a lion passant gardant between two cinquefoils; a chief inscribed "As God wyll"), also four corner - pieces; two, the Holy Lamb, with cross and banner; and two, a columbine. C.

Stanwick St. John.-Apparently lost. Thirsk.-I. has four Lat. vv. II. The date is certainly 1419. On same slab as last; (?) all one brass. S.A.

Wakefield Cathedral.-I. Eng. inscr. to Mr. Marm. Shepley, of Wakefield, 1722, æt. 35. N.C.A. II. Eng. inscr. to Willm. Coppindale, junr., gent., 1726, æt. 30, and Margt., his 3rd dau., æt. 3. N. III. Eng. inscr. to Mr. Robt. Bever, 1728, æt. 58, and Frances his grand-dau. N.A. IV. Eng. inscr. to Mr. Willm. Spink, mcht., 1738, æt. 71. N. V. Eng. inscr. to Mr. Robt. Mason, gent., 1738 (?), æt. 38. N.A. And several other later brass plates.

Wycliffe.-II. has a shield. Add III. Lat. inscr. to Wm. Wyclife, Esq., Lord of the Manor and Patron of Church, 1584, and wife Merial, dau. of Wm., Lord Eure, 1557; John,

their youngest son, pos. 1611. C. There is an incised slab with effigy of John Forster, Vicar, canopy and marg. inscr., c. 1450, in C.

York, All Saints, North Street.—II. and III. parts of the same brass (?). Add IV. Lat. inscr. to William Stokton, and Robert Colynson, [Lord] Mayor of York, and their wife, Isabella, c. 1500. S.A. Collinson (the S.A. Collinson (the 1st husband) was Lord Mayor, 1457, and dec. 1458. Isabella Stockton dec. 1503. Stockton was an alderman. (Surtees Soc., 57, 29 n.) V. Arms and Eng. inscr. to Thos. Askwith, Sheriff of the city of York, 1609, æt. 71, and wife Anne, dau. of Robart Telleker, of Thoulthrope, gent., by whom he had one son. By his 1st wife Ursula, dau. of Robt. Sandwith, of York, Bower, he had one son and one daughter, mur. S.C. VI. Lat. inscr. to Chas., son of Chas., brother of Rich., Townley, all of Townley, co. Lanc., 1712, æt. 80, mur. S.C.

York, All Saints, Pavement.-I. Lat. inscr. to Robert Crathorn, Esq., 1464. N.A. II. Eng. inscr. to Mary, wife of John Gratrix, "Q Mast in his Majys 1st or Roy! Reg" of Dragns," 1790, æt. 36; on same slab as last. N.A.

York, St. Crux.-I. (on pillar S. side of N.) has arms of Askwith; it probably commemorates Robt. Askwith, Lord Mayor, 1580 and 1593; M.P. 1581 and 1588; who dec. 1597, æt. 67. II. In S.A. III. Mchts. mks. apparently lost; one shield only with arms of the City of York. N.A. Church visited 1884. It has since been demolished!

York, St. Cuthbert.—I. Lat. inscr. to Wm. Bowes, sen., [Lord] Mayor, and wife Isabelle, 1435; four shields lost. II. Eng. inscr. to Robart Hungate, Esq., counsellorat-law, founder of a school and hospital at Sherburn, benefactor to this parish; gave £30 every third year to a preaching minister to preach and catechise in this Church, Sandhutton Chapel, and Saxton Church, 1619. Hen. Darley, husband of niece Margery Hungate, and executor, pos. III. Eng. inscr. to Richd. Bell, Esq., counsellor-at-law; had two wives-Anne, dau. of John Atkinson, gent., of York; and Katherine, widow of John Payler, Esq., 1630. IV. Eng. inscr., with arms, to Susanna, youngest dau. of Mr. Richd. Lowther,

second son of Sir William Lowther, Knt. of Great Preston, co. York, 1714, æt. 1 yr. II mos. 15 days. V. A shield. VI. Another, mutilated. Nos. II., IV., and VI. on the same slab.

York, St. John.-Eng. inscr., with arms, to Mr. Thos. Mosley, Alderman and twice Lord Mayor, 1624, æt. 85; Marie, his eldest dau. ; Eliz. his second dau.; and Thos. Scott his grandchild, son to Eliz; Jane his wife, pos. N.A. The altar tomb of Sir Thos. York, Knt., Lord Mayor, 1469 and 1477 (who founded a chantry here and), dec. 1489; has had the chamfer insc. restored. N.A.

York, St. Martin le Grand.-I. In N.A. II. has four shields, mur. S.C. Add III. Lat. inscr., with arms, to Valentine Nalson, M.A., Pastor, Succentor of the vicars choral, York, and Canon of Ripon (son of John Nalson, LL.D.), 1722, æt. 40. N. IV. Eng. inscr. to George, son of Geo. and Eliz. Copperthwaite, of Leeds, 1760, æt. 4, mur.

N.A.

York, St. Mary, Castlegate.-Lat. inscr. to George, son of Geo. Blanshard, gent., 1709, æt. 18 mos.; Sarah, widow of Tim. Wilkinson, gent., 1724, æt. 61; and Margaret, widow of the said Geo. Blanshard, and dau. of the said Tim. and Sarah Wilkinson, 1731, æt. 46. N.C.

York, St. Michael le Belfry.-I. Eng. inscr. to Frances, wife of William Farrer, of Ewood, "within the Viccaridge of Hallifax," co. York, Esq., dau. of Richd. James, of Portsmouth, N.A. N.A. II. Eng. inscr.,

Esq., 1680, æt. 51. Esq., 1680, æt. 51.

with arms, to Thos.

Dawny, of Selby, Esq.,

son of Thos. D., of Sutton Manor, in Coldfield, co. Warw., Esq., 1683, æt. 44.

N.A.

York, St. Michael, Spurriergate.-I. In N.A. II. In S.A. III. In N. Add IV. Eng. inscr. to Mr. Wm. Shaw, bachelor, mcht., of York (son of Mr. Thos. Shaw, Rector of Aldingham, Furness, co. Lanc.), 1681, æt. 40. By his will he left £100 to the poor of this parish for ever. On same slab as II. S.A.

York, St. Sampson.-Lat. inscr. to Wm. Richardson, 1680, æt. 47. S.A.

York, Holy Trinity, Goodramgate.—Lat. inscr. to Thos. Danby, [Lord] Mayor of York, 1458, and wife Matilde, 1463. Š.A.

York, Holy Trinity or Christ Church, King's Court.-I. Lat. inscr. to Thos. Kyrke,

OLLAND is an expression, with which even those personally unacquainted with the country have learned by books and hearsay to connect certain distinctive notions; and the remarkable facilities, afforded to tourists even of moderate leisure or resources for paying a visit to this singular region, have a natural tendency to reduce from year to year the number of English folk who have to say that they have not set their foot on some portions of its soil.

The publications of a descriptive character, assisting the traveller to form a better appreciation of the route which he proposes to traverse, as well as to refresh his memory on his return to his own fireside, have multiplied commensurately with the steadily growing interest in this corner of Europe; and it is worse than fruitless for anyone to go over ground which the ordinary works of reference have fully preoccupied, or to call attention to details which the manuals have exhaustively illustrated and discussed.

But to whatever extent Holland has of late been threaded through by the development

of communications alike without and within, it may always happen that an observer will be indebted to some unusual combination of circumstances, to some casual good fortune, or to the habit of studying questions from some special standpoint, for the opportunity of presenting to the public a few considerations more or less novel and more or less interesting.

The vitally important change, amounting to a revolution, which has manifested itself in our time in the spirit and feeling to be encouraged in viewing the costume of our own and other lands, was inherently bound to carry its promoters in some instances too far; yet it has been attended by the grand result of teaching us all to look at such objects or phenomena in nature, science, and social economy as we examine with a more philosophical eye, and with the help of new critical tests to exhibit common things en

countered in our travels in unsuspected and captivating lights. Within a singularly brief period how many ordinary features of our daily being have been shown by the expert to possess an origin and a significance of which we had no conception, and how obvious, as in the case of Columbus and the egg, the truth appeared, when it was unfolded to our mental vision!

These introductory paragraphs may be thought to bear a resemblance to a small dwelling with a disproportionate doorway; for, in fact, all that I can pretend to offer in the present paper is a series of memoranda embracing the result of observations, chiefly on subjects of an archæological tenor, made in the course of a ramble last autumn through parts of North and South Holland. I trust, however, that I may be pardoned if I occasionally cross the dividing line between ancient and modern history, more especially as the two are often so inter-connected.

The communication of notes made at the moment upon a wide variety of points and topics may be perhaps justified by their utility both to such as have trodden the same ground, and to such as have not yet done so. Two pairs of eyes, it is sometimes said, are better than one, and I may be even forgiven for observing that there is a class of traveller which sees by proxy.

The first spot which I viewed was FLUSH

ING-a name which conjures up so many fond thoughts and attractions. But the town has become utterly insignificant, and is perfectly denuded of every tie between it and the past. Its rich history is purely one upon paper and, so to speak, upon trust. We cannot, of course, reject or impeach the concurrent testimony of so many writers as to the events which have had this place for their theatre, and which indissolubly identify it with several of our own English worthies. Yet, if one strolls along the thoroughfares, or stands on the road which leads to it from the station, one has to know what Flushing has been from other sources than existing local monuments.

The dismantlement and obliteration which one perceives in progress all over the world, reducing to a dead prosaic level all poetry of feature and outline, are at work day by day in these Netherlands. A generation or two may see, alas! almost everything which constitutes an attraction in the eyes of strangers effaced, to make room for utilitarian projects or for monotonous and mechanical forms, which answer to the postulates of Art in the most imperfect and perfunctory degree; and this principle will involve in the long run a commercial disaster of unexampled magnitude to the whole European Continent, which must reckon on an enormous loss of revenue from foreign tourists and sightseers. English and Americans will gradually become less enamoured of laying out their money in exploring places shorn of those elements which alone made tedious journeys and costly hotel charges supportable.

MIDDELBURG is another name which recalls certain episodes in the political and literary history of our own country. It was the scene of stirring events during the Spanish occupation of a portion of the Low Countries during the sixteenth century, and underwent a siege. In the time of Elizabeth it formed a refuge for many Englishmen, who had occasion to quit home on account of their opinions, and a residence for others engaged in mercantile pursuits. It still possesses some faint traces of having been an important position; the Stadt-huis remains in the market-place, and, so far as the gencral outline and exterior go, keeps to this moment an air of antiquity. One can just

realize a notion of what it has been, and what the town itself was. Cætera desunt.

A spacious market-place is a feature in almost all the Dutch towns of any pretension. I met with a fellow here, who had in former years ransacked all the farm-houses for miles round in quest of antiquities and curiosities for the ingenuous foreigner.

You have not to come even so far as this to encounter the gendarme, a traditional observance which pervades the Continent, and of which the practical value, at least in the Netherlands, is infinitesimal. He is almost the last relic of an era, when, above all other considerations and duties, ranked the cruel need of perpetual readiness for war, and when the exactions of military service were created and warranted by constant tumults at home as well as by dread of assailants from without.

DORDRECHT, or DORT, is certainly a fine. old town. The scene at the river-side is delightful, and the trip by water to Rotterdam is most enjoyable and exhilarating. In the church here there are some remarkably interesting and fine early historical carvings at the back of the stalls; they represent events in the reign of Charles V. and the Spanish Annals of Holland, but they are unhappily worm-eaten and decayed. There is no one in Dort to care for them; if you spoke of them to the townsfolk, they would not know what you meant. They have, a hundred to one, never seen them. They, and such like things, are only visible in long perspective. It is quite true, as Baedeker tells you, that the deals, which you see floating on the canals, have come down from the German forests. Why, they have been doing so for hundreds of years; and as I leaned over a bridge and contemplated them, I wove together in my mind a very pretty imagery, of which the nature, I believe, can be guessed.

The costumes and scenes which one encounters everywhere on the rivers and canals, seem almost like reproductions of the old pictures in the galleries, and serve as pièces justificatives for the latter. The brush of Teniers and Douw transferred to canvas many of the figures and landscapes which I witnessed; but so much of the background in the urban studies has disappeared, and the feeling and tone of the time so differ, that one is apt to

wonder for an instant whether the gathering at a market or a fair, so quaint in contour and so wealthy in colour, is an actual survival or some dream after a feast on the old masters.

ROTTERDAM is the port of entry, as it were, where the galleries commence, never to end till your foot has ceased to press Dutch earth. For pictures abound in Holland in private as well as public museums-pictures, for the most part, of local origin, sympathies and costume. Here, among others, is the Six Museum, with its portrait of Burgomaster Six by Rembrandt, handed down from age to age, and better than many a patent of nobility. The private museum is quite an institution. One meets with it throughout, in large places and in small. It is the point of contact between the original owner and endless generations to come. In one of them which I visited two rooms were fitted up in the style of the middle of the seventeenth century. It was the house of an affluent burgher; there was the sumptuous four-poster, with the berceaunette at its foot, and a true realistic bit in the shape of the vrouw's nightcap on the counterpane.

You notice here in full play for the first time the depôts for "wijn, likeur en gedistilleerden," "Tapperij en Slijterij," and "Hollandschbierhuis," the last spelled as a monosyllable, but well leaded out.

It is peremptory, while you are at Rotterdam, to take the train to GOUDA, in order to see the gorgeous painted windows dating between 1555 and 1606; some of them-the earliest are splendid work, both for detail and colour. But the restorer has been at his tricks here and there. This is Gouda's Alpha and Omega. It was as far back, at least, as 1479 the seat of an important printing-press.

The centre of interest at DELFT is the old palace, where, on the stairs, in 1582, William the Silent was assassinated by an emissary of that execrable scoundrel, Philip II. of Spain. They show visitors the very spot where the crime was perpetrated, and the point in the wall of the stair where the ball struck. Those may credit the tale who list. All the pieces of the puzzle do not perfectly fit in. Only an ounce-ball, with nothing to break its force, could have made the impression on the stonework; and did not the

VOL. XXII.

stadtholder fall at the first shot? The palace is a very unpretending structure, and cannot surely ever have been anything more.

The character of the country in the journey hither from Rotterdam by canal-boat is wonderfully conservative and typical. You pass many a waterside hamlet, and go through many a lock. Your fellow-travellers are bullocks, calves, and pigs-perhaps horses— and in the season the hold of the narrow steamer accommodates fruit, cheese, and butter. Of sheep you see little, and mutton is seldom to be found in the Dutch hotel ménus. The wool is more valued than the flesh. It is the same in Germany.

Before you embark on the canal screws, see that you have your smelling-bottle or a flask of eau de Cologne.

From Delft I proceeded to THE HAGUE, which is very charming, with its Vijver; its general sylvan aspect reminding you of its primitive use as a hunting-seat of the ancient Counts of Holland; and its pleasant adjunct, SCHEVENINGEN, approached by a most agreeable ride through a wide stretch of woodland. Scheveningen is fashionable from July to September. You might as well go to Biarritz for cheapness. But, like our Brighton, it has grown out of the old fishing hamlet, whence Charles II. embarked for England in 1660. By the way, Charles probably had in his recollection Rosendaal in Holland, when he called by a similar name his hunting-seat near Norwood, in Surrey.

The palace at The Hague and its ample precincts offer no features of archæological significance beyond the spot where the grand pensionary Van Olden-Barneveldt was beheaded in 1619, and the ancient prison, which is the most characteristic monument of the kind which I have seen in this country, and is well worth a careful study, particularly the chamber where the instruments of torture are preserved. The attendant augmented his fee, whether I liked it or no, by illustrating the application of one or two of these in his own person.

The Old Doulen Hotel is the house where Peter the Great is alleged to have stayed when he was at The Hague. You miss here the canals, which in all the other chief centres of life dissect at geometrical angles the blocks of buildings and thoroughfares. The Hague

F