form, and was in the year 1772, in tolerable preservation but the remainder is much dismantled. However the stones of the fence are well bedded, and appear to have undergone no little labour from the chissil. Of all the ruins to be seen in this part of the north these have suffered the most complete demolition, considering the ample size of the original structure. Nearest the road, within the ancient precincts of the abbey, appears the gateway, and few deserted walls of a mansion, most probably erected from the ruins of the monastery. The greatest part of the materials of this edifice was sold, about sixty years ago, by order of the then noble proprietor. Partly the same fate attended the abbey, whose stones have been occasionally employed to erect fences, farm-houses, and the attendant conveniences, whilst a part has been appropriated to the repairs of the road: a person in the neighbourhood remembering to have seen the high-way strewed with fragments of inscriptions.

MASHAM, about seven miles south-east from Middleham, has a handsome church, and a fine spire. It is a small manufacturing town.

At TANFIELD, two miles south from Masham, near the church, is an ancient castle, which in early times belonged to the family of Fitzhugh. In the eighth of King Edward II. John Lord Mannion had licence from the king to make a castle of his house, called the Hermitage, situated in Tanfield Wood, which castle seems to be a distinct building from that near the church. Respecting the building or demolition of the castle little or nothing can be collected, either from historical records or tradition. The latter indeed says, that when Fairfield Castle was destroyed, the materials were purchased by several of the surrounding gentry, and the Earl of Exeter's house at Shape, and the seat of the Wandisfords at Kirklington were built with them.

The

The part now standing appears to bave been a gatehouse.

HACKFALL is about three miles from Masham.

About four miles south from Masham is WEST TANFIELD, of which Leland gives the following decription in his Itinerary: "Great Tanfeld, where is a castle on a banke longith to Lord Parrs, and stondith on Ure. Tanfelde Castel longid to the Lord Marmion and so came to the Fitzhughs.

"The tounlet of West Tanfeld, standith on a cliving ground hard by Ure, a river of colowr for the next part of Soden water, by reason of the colowr and the morish nature of the soile of Weneedale, from whens it cometh, In the church of West Tanfeld be divers tombes in a chapelle on the north side of the church of the Marmions, whereof one is in an arch of the waulle, and that seemeth most auntient. Then lyith ther alane a ladye with the apparel of a vowes, and anothe ladye with a crownet on her hedde. Then is ther an high tomb of alabaster in the middle of the chapel, wher, as I hard say, lyith one Lorde John Marmion. And in the south side of the chapel is another tombe of the Marmions buried alone. Ther is a master and two centuaria priests at West Tanfelde of the foundation of one of the Marmions, and there is another centaurie besides these. The castelle of Tanfelde, or rather, as it is now a mean manor place, standith hard on the ripe of Ure, wher i saw no notable building, but a faire tourid gate-house, and a hall of squared stone."

This gate still remains at the west end of the church-yard. But Leland says, "or ever he cam to West Tanfelde he passed by fery for lak of bridge.” There is now a stone bridge over the river just at the entrance into the town.

From hence to Boroughbridge nothing particular occurs which we have not already noticed in a former journey.

Journey

Journey from Hoeden to Market-Weighton.

HOWDEN is a large market town, situated on the north side of the Ouse, and is famous for its horsefairs in July and October.

Here was formerly a collegiate church, of five prebendaries. The church is an ancient building, supposed to have been erected about the year 1100. Mr. Pennant says Howden, a small town, is distinguished by the ruin of its fine church, in form of a cross, length 251 feet, transept 100 feet, east part quite a ruin; its windows quite superb and elegant, arches pointed, columns adorned with fluting between. Tracery of side windows various. The entrance to the east part of the centre three doors well ornamented, two niches each side the chief. A great altar-tomb against a pillar, with several arms, benefactors, &c. A paln-stone, Hic jacet Gwillelmus Maddi. A coffin lid, a cross on it, sides inscribed-Hic requiescunt visecra Walteri Skirlaw, &c. He is said to have built the steeple, at least the upper part of it, 1390. Chapter-house, a beautiful octagon, the tracery of the windows light and fine the inside has 30 stalls, each under a Gothic arch; both those and the back of the stalls enriched with beautiful sculpture; over the door two rows of six niches each. The roof fallen in, through neglect, 20 years ago Between the windows, on the outside, several shields of arms. chapel, called Metham's Altar, is a tomb beneath an enriched Gothic arch. On the cross is a coat of arms; on the floor is a fine tomb of a knight cross-legged, a shield, a mantle, his neck and head bare, short hair; mourners and religious in niches round the tomb, and one person with a falcon. A lady in a loose gown, crosslegged; another cross-legged knight, his head, cheeks, and neck, guarded with chain-armour sticking quite close, a fillet round his head, his

In the side

breast

breast set with roses. The mansion-house of the Bishops of Durham, who are lords of the manor, is near the east-end of the church, cuce a large pile, some part demolished; several arms here. A great vault, perhaps a cloister, is still standing; behind the house is a large square piece of land, moated round; in it is a canal and several trees, possibly once the garden and orchard."

Roger of Hovedon, or Howden, the historian, was a native of this town.

Four miles north-west from Howden is Hemingsborough, once a market town. The church is one of the handsomest in the county, and was made collegiate by the prior and monks of Durham in the year 1426, for a provost, three prebendaries, &c.

Four miles north-west from Howden is Wressel Castle, anciently belonging to the Earls of Northumberland, which maintained its splendor till the fatal Civil Wars, which broke out in the reign of Charles I. It was then garrisoned by the parliament, but they having at length resolved to demolish all castles in this part of the kingdom, an order was unexpectedly sent from York for dismantling this, at the very moment when the Earl of Northumberland was exerting all his influence for its preservation.

And again, in the year 1650, an order was issued out for the entire demolition of this once magnificent structure. The only indulgence the earl could obtain, was that the execution of the order should be entrusted to his own stewards, and that part of the principal building should be spared to serve for a imanor-house. In consequence of this order, three sides of the square which formerly composed Wressel Castle, were entirely demolished: however, the whole south-front, which was the most considerable, and contains some of the principal state-rooms, still remains, and is very magnificent. It is flanked by two large square towers, and these again are mounted by cricular turrets of a smaller size: upon

the

the top of one of the turrets is still preserved the iron pan of the beacon anciently used to alarm the country.

The chapel is now used instead of the parish church, which was situated about a bow-shot from the castle. Of this one ruined end wall only re mains, in which at present hang two bells. The pulpit now stands on a pedestal upon the great stone altar of the chapel, and the communion is administered on a table in the middle of the room. Wressel Castle is at present the property of the Earl of Egremont.

The following is Leland's account of this edifice: "Wreschili Castle is moted about on three partes, the fourth part is dry, where the entre is into the castle. It is al of very fair and grate squarid stone, both withyn and without, whereof as some hold opinion much was brought out of France. It has only five towers, one at each corner, alımost of like bigness; and the gate-house, the haule, and great chambers be fair, and so is the chapeler and the closette. The house is one of the most proper beyond the Trent, and semeth as newly made, yet was it made by the younger brother of the Perrys Farl of Wincester, that was in high favor with Richard II. and bought the manor, mounting at that time to little above 301. by the year, and for lak of heires of him, and by favour of the king, it came to the earls of Northumberland. The basse court is of a newer building, and the last earl of Northumberland save one made the brewhouse of stone without the castel waulle, but hard joining to the kichyn of it.. One thing I lyked exceedingly in one of the towers, that was a study, called purradise, wher was a closet in the middle of eight squares, latised about, and at the toppe of every square was a deske ledged to set books on cofirs within them, and these semed as joined hard to the top of the closet, and yet by pulling, one or all would come down breast high in rabbits,